[1:1]

Originally Posted by Brigadier

Thanks for the reply. But I didn't find any information on RB42x. All I could find was info about RB42 only.
I contacted one seller on amazon, he said that the MB42x would be available by March end, not sure about that though.

Chip shortage has created a huge void right now . Even I want to upgrade my AVR but the prices are through the roof. Enquired with few dealers and all of them said wait for 6-12 months for prices to cool off and supply should get back on track.

[whencut86]

I am looking to add a new soundbar to my home and looking for options from Sony in the 25-35K price range. I have shortlisted the HT S40R and the HT S700RF or HT S500RF. The HTS40R is a 600W system and the S700RF/S500RF is a 1000W system. Though my living room is 23 x 13 ft, the actual TV enclosure/space would be 10X13 ft. Would a 600W system be sufficient for this space or should I go for a 1000W system. I prefer a 1000W system though and stocks for S500RF or S700RF are not available. Many Sony centers have a display unit and they are okay to sell the display unit at a good discount with the same warranty as new. Should I go for the display unit with warranty same as new or should S40R be sufficient for the space or my needs?

[mail2sekh]

Originally Posted by 1:1

I know i am a bit late in the day but if you are to still pull the trigger here are my two bits

Surround- how is your home setup going to be? on flat wall just behind seating area or you have space behind your seating area say (2-3 feet?). If it is on the wall then try out bipolar speakers. One of the honest guys told me these works best if you are too close to the wall as the speakers are tilted inwards and give a better immersive effect.
https://hifimart.com/product/wharfed...-speaker-pair/

SUB- look at Velodyne, Elac or Polk I have demoed Taga and its not that great. Importantly don't go cheap on your SUB, your system wont sound as good as your money's worth if don't get the right one.
https://hifimart.com/product/elac-de...ubwoofer-html/

Ceiling Pair - You can go cheap on this have a look at Micca brand their stuff is really superb to the price you pay. It sounds better than other components that cost 2X of its price.
https://www.amazon.in/Reference-R-8C...08QQ9SB2&psc=1

Hope this helps.

Much appreciated. No, have not taken the plunge yet. Yes, I have 3 feet spacing behind the seats.
Saw your other note which talks about the receiver prices.

"Denon 3700H which would retail for about 85-110K currently retails for 1.65L
MarantsSr6015 used to retail for 95-120K currently retails for 2.24L."

That's a bummer. The Marantz was in my list. Did not know that the cost difference is this huge owing to chip shortages !

[1:1]

Originally Posted by mail2sekh

Much appreciated. No, have not taken the plunge yet. Yes, I have 3 feet spacing behind the seats.

In that case you have all options available, small Bookshelf, In wall (if you have not explored them yet) or the bipolar design surrounds. See what works out best for you.

Originally Posted by mail2sekh

That's a bummer. The Marantz was in my list. Did not know that the cost difference is this huge owing to chip shortages !

We might have to just wait it out I guess. Was going through some videos on YouTube where car manufacturers are among the worst hit and according to their estimate things would start to ease only post mid 2023.

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by mail2sekh

Other requirements and thoughts: I could be way off the mark and some of these might sound naive to the pros but just figuring my way around the terminologies.

Some quick notes to consider, mate:

These are general and there are likely to be exceptions to them, as to most things. The following comes from a mix of lots of reading and surely some experience. Someone like Navin with huge experience of equipment might be able to correct and add to it and I would find it valuable.

1. Please do try and hear what you propose to spend about 3L on. For similar segment of an AV Receiver, the difference in audio quality might not be too big unless you have very sharp ears and skilled listening. What will significantly vary is the room compensation circuitry and how well the AVR manages the flaws in the acoustics of the room.
   .
2. Marantz and Denon come from the same group, with Marantz promoted as a more audio focused one and Denon movie focused, though many say that it is rare for anyone to be able to distinguish between them in a blind test; especially in a home setting. Yamaha too is considered a good one to go with. Service availability around you would be worth considering.
   
   I also take the weight of an AVR as a significant indicator, though opinions on that vary. It is also worth considering the interface - display, remote, and also app you are comfortable using.
   .
3. An 11.2 AVR could allow you to use the power of the extra speakers to feed another room, or even supply extra power to the front L and R speakers, thereby giving cleaner sound. An 11.2 is also likely to have bigger and better power supplies than a 9.2 system, so even if you use it only in 9.2 mode, you do gain on cleaner sound. All this becomes relevant if you listen to thing a bit loud. Many might not end up using the power of a 9.2 enough.
   .
4. Playing at a lower volume typically gives cleaner sound, and also plays a role in longevity of speakers. So if the AVR is of a higher capacity, one can play it at a lower volume. Contrary to popular belief, more often it is the distortion which spoils speakers than momentary loud sound. Low volume typically means lower distortion.
   .
5. With an AVR with decent specs for the job, it is the speakers which will make the big difference. Especially the front pair, centre speaker and subwoofer.
   .
6. Subwoofer: With 3L as a budget, I would ensure I have a good sub, and would surely look beyond what Taga offers. They do have some excellent regular speakers though. Consider subwoofers which have a correction mechanism like Servo. A sub creates high energy sound waves, which themselves interfere with the movement of the sub's cone. Such compensation mechanisms compensate for such distortion. Consider Rhythmik - it is an entry into audiophile subs. It would also likely help if the room is acoustically poor. A recent post about a bulk buy was made on the forum.
   
   All this, assuming you like nuanced well integrated bass. If loud punch is all you are after, then such a sub might be a waste.
   .
7. With a good subwoofer, it is typically recommended to set the AVR setting for front speakers to "small speakers". This is to reduce the interference of the same frequencies being emitted by both the Sub and large floor standing speakers. So, in many cases, one is effectively paying for a floor stander and using it like a bookshelf. Front speakers might be set as "large" to allow them the full spectrum of frequencies they can play, however the system needs to be well calibrated. Unless you have a large room which the sub can't cover well, you might not find much benefit. In fact, you might find cleaner sound with the small setting or simply with bookshelf speakers placed well.
   .
8. Placement and direction of speakers too has a big effect, as do proper configurations of the system. Especially with large front speakers and those set to full, one could actually end up reducing the bass if configured poorly. Our seats, and also speakers, being a bit away from walls helps (impacts reflection of sound). At times, only a slight change in the direction of the front speakers improves sound.
   .
9. Floor standing speakers can be put to good use for music, if you are a 2.0 purist. It also helps in music which has not been engineered well for a subfoofer - typically low budget, some live stuff, and especially olden music in times when subwoofers were very uncommonly used.
   .
10. Let price not tell you what speaker is likely to be good. We hear differently. Also have different preferences. Some like that sharp 'clear' sound, which often tends to lead to fatigue; some prefer gentler and more nuanced midrange. A purely neutral system is often desired by purists, yet not enjoyable by all. See what you like after listening to it. For eg, I usually enjoy paper cones and have rarely liked a setup with 6" drivers. A midrange of 4-5.25" has often agreed with me. Also consider the type of tweeter - metal, silk or other.
    
    Also make sure that the speakers are not fresh out of the box. Some burn-in helps. Though improvements are said to happen over 100-200 hours, the first half an hour to an hour could make a very big difference.
    .
11. If you are really into fine audio (and not just punchy movie sound), you might appreciate the rare set which is like the olden configuration of 2 different sets of driver sizes (besides the tweeter). Off late, I suspect due to better visuals and styling elements, many have 2 same sized drivers. Though technically one can control things to make one work like a midrange and one more like a woofer, it never felt good enough to me. A bookshelf with about a 5" driver and a good subwoofer (preferably sealed) is likely to provide better sound.
    
    Sealed subwoofers typically have less output and more suited to music. Ported are less even in frequency representation, but more punchy. Ideally one can have multiple sealed subs, but that ends up being too expensive. Next is to look for a larger cone (15") or dual driver subs (not common).
    .
12. Though again difficult due to how the style and size issues come up, if possible try and get the same size of midrange driver in the front centre speaker and the Front Left and Right. If possible, also in the surround speakers. It leads to a seamless movement of sound from one to the other. Many might not notice it enough, but to keener and more skilled ears the difference is apparent; and might only be noticed enough by some much after the purchase. Such surround speakers would look ugly in most settings - quite like a small bookshelf at the rear.
    .
13. If budget constraints come up with what you really enjoyed listening to, one could consider investing in stages. IMO, better to add some speakers over time, than have it all in the beginning and not love it after a while; however others' preferences might vary.
    .
14. Room acoustics play a very big role. At times, correcting those has a bigger effect on things than spending twice on equipment. It is said that half of what we hear is the system, and half the room (not meant to be taken literally, but an indicator). For an acoustically poor room, especially check on what kind of room correction the AVR has.

While writing, I added more and general points not just for @mail2sekh, but also for anyone else setting up a good HT/Audio system. Hope this helps.

[Brigadier]

Originally Posted by 1:1

Chip shortage has created a huge void right now . Even I want to upgrade my AVR but the prices are through the roof. Enquired with few dealers and all of them said wait for 6-12 months for prices to cool off and supply should get back on track.

The Micca RB42 will be in stock at end of March as per Seller, not sure if I can wait
I read rave reviews about the Mission LX-2 MKII Bookshelf Speakers. Can you suggest if they can support my AVR which is Yamaha HTR-3066 ? I don't understand all the impedance and tech specs:(

[1:1]

Originally Posted by Brigadier

The Micca RB42 will be in stock at end of March as per Seller, not sure if I can wait

Both speakers would work with your system, as per google your Yammy HTR-3006 outputs

70 W per channel (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz, 0.09% THD, 2-ch driven)

Mission speakers are rated as :
Sensitivity (2.83V @ 1m) 87dB- This basically means if 1 watt is supplied then speaker can reproduce 87db at 1meter.

Recommended amplifier power 20-100W- Checks, even if your avr can give max output of 70w @8 ohms. That is plenty of power for speakers.

MICCA
Sensitivity: 83dB 1W/1M -
Power Handling: 15-100 Watts

If just going by spec sheet Mission speakers would ideally sound louder vs the MICCA.

You wont go wrong with either of them. Now its a matter of price and availability.

[Turbanator]

Going super crazy with my built or should I say builts

What started as a simple HT setup, am struck deep.

This came today and the difference it makes to the 2 Channel setup is beyond words.

[vibbs]

Hey All,

I am stuck with quite a strange problem that I need help with. I have an old (5 years) Pioneer VSX 524 AV recieved that I have connected to Wharfedale floor standing speakers, centre speaker and a subwoofer. Essentially a 3.1 set up. This is the first time I have hooked up a subwoofer and previously I always ran it as a 4.0 system with just the front an surrounds.

The problem I face now is that, I don't seem to get any output from the sub. The AV reciever has a sub pre out and my sub is an active sub.

I have checked the sub itself and there is no problem. It powers on and also responds during Automatic MACC set up. It also responds when I try to set the levels of different channels manually through the reciever.

But for some reason when I play a movie or song, the subwoofer does not output. Which makes me believe that it's a setting on the reciever problem. Anybody has experience with Pioneer recievers to help me nail what settings I am messing up?

Thanks in advance.

[1:1]

Originally Posted by vibbs

Hey All,

I am stuck with quite a strange problem that I need help with. I have an old (5 years) Pioneer VSX 524 AV recieved that I have connected to Wharfedale floor standing speakers, centre speaker and a subwoofer. Essentially a 3.1 set up. This is the first time I have hooked up a subwoofer and previously I always ran it as a 4.0 system with just the front an surrounds.

The problem I face now is that, I don't seem to get any output from the sub. The AV reciever has a sub pre out and my sub is an active sub.

I have checked the sub itself and there is no problem. It powers on and also responds during Automatic MACC set up. It also responds when I try to set the levels of different channels manually through the reciever.

But for some reason when I play a movie or song, the subwoofer does not output. Which makes me believe that it's a setting on the reciever problem. Anybody has experience with Pioneer recievers to help me nail what settings I am messing up?

Thanks in advance.

I don't have a Pioneer AVR but you can check the following. But most AVR work the same so do the following.
Subwoofer settings:
On the sub turn the cross over Frequency dial to its max usually it is 180htz. Keep it this way as your AVR would do the cross over management. Set volume to 12oClock, Set the Auto on Off to “Always on” for now and later change to auto or keep it on always on as per your preference.
AVR setting:
1.On your AVR check under speakers settings check if you have set Subwoofer as Yes or No. I am guessing as you have never used it before it was set as No. Make sure it is set to "Yes"
2. Re-Run the audio calibration as you are adding a new speaker (SUB). There is a need to get the room acoustics right with the AVR. So connect the room calibration mic and run it once as required. You will surely get a good result.
3. Under Speaker setting check Front speakers, if they are set to Large then most probably there is no signal going to the SUB. Set them to Small and play with the crossover settings and hear the difference set it to a level in a way that the sub just vanishes along with the speakers, usually it is 80htz but depending on acoustics it can be in range of 70-100htz.
Importantly set the front speakers to Small and let the sub do the heavy lifting. Sub's have a built in amp which has more juice vs your AVR to the front stage speakers.

Hope this helps
Cheers
1:1

[vibbs]

Originally Posted by 1:1

I don't have a Pioneer AVR but you can check the following. But most AVR work the same so do the following.
Subwoofer settings:

Thank you 1:1

You see this is the issue. The settings are just as you mentioned. Plus when I do the automatic audio calibration the sub woofer responds. But somehow when I run a song or movie there is no response from the sub whatsoever.

There seems to be something else that I am missing. The audio in to the AV reciever is through Optical cable from the TV.

[1:1]

Originally Posted by vibbs

Thank you 1:1

There seems to be something else that I am missing. The audio in to the AV receiver is through Optical cable from the TV.

Recheck sub connection to avr if it is connected to the preout for sub. On the sub cabe is connected to LFE.

Try setting the system manually as follows.

1. Set speakers to small,
2. Set Crossover to 100htz
3. In the speaker level configuration max out the sub level to +10.
4. On the Sub turn both dials Crossover to max and volume at max.
5. Play a song with heavy base (recommend to listen to Legendary - by Deadmau5 this has a balse line which will give your sub a nice workout.).
remember to start with low volume else it might get too loud.
6. Try changing source say bluetooth or internet radio instead of your TV.

Play the song in all channel stereo mode instead of 2 channel audio.

If this fails then you will mostly will have to get the unit serviced at a service station.

[vibbs]

Thank you 1:1

I figured out the problem. There is a setting called LFE attenuate. It was set at -20. Default value is 0. At other values the LFE channel is limited. Then I manually increased the sub woofer level on reciever to max and played the song you suggested.

It works. Thanks!

[blahman]

I bought the Bose Soundbar 900 after waiting for an eternity. Didn't have anyone to hand carry it down from the States so ended up paying the full price in India which is 30k+ more.



Bought it from the MG road store in Bengaluru, wanted to know how far the 900 has come from the old 700 series. I was very let down by the 700's quality and especially the bass output on its own (minus the Bass module700), this got me really skeptical. Thankfully when they got the display piece he gave me a call and I was really impressed with the 900. Significant improvement in the bass from the soundbar alone and the upfiring speakers was something that added a lot to the listeneing experience than I had imagined. The 900 along with the 700 Bass module is bloody brilliat but sadly I decided to not buy it for now since I live in an apartment and don't want to be THAT guy creating as nuisance for my lovely neighbours. The prices of the 700 Bass module has increased by 20k INR and they had just 3 units left in the old price. The SA told me the 900 Bass module isn't expected for another year, skeptical on the front. But anyway, they are upselling the old unit saying "shortage of chips".




Got it home and set it up using the ADAPTIQ and boy did it make a huge difference. Have put the Center Channel at +40, the BASS at +60, Height Channel at +70 and the Treble at +20. Still can't mimic the Height Channel setting at the showroom but hopefully will get it right after fiddling out the same.

The only weird thing I found was the 3 power chords I received in the box.



Overall the 900 soundbar is bloody brilliant on its own. Please visit the showroom and experience the same. I'm sure it'll impress the lot who'd want to buy a sound bar.

Here are some picture for your viewing pleasure. Cheers

[smsrini]

Availability of Yamaha Receivers.

Has anyone purchased yamaha receivers recently. It looks like all dealers in bangalore are out of stock. one claims no stock for the last 2 years!

I'm trying to replace my yamaha RX-V661AV with something that gives me a eARC, 7.1 and 2zone, to drive my wharfedale diamond 9 5.1 setup.

Budget is around 60k.

Between a the above and a soundbar - say bose 900, which would give better sound ?

thanks
Srini