[aim120]

Originally Posted by Lobogris

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It seems that the display alternates between temperature and power consumption, not compressor tonnage. Daikin technical specifications also confirm this. The 1 ton 5 star model has a normal BTU of 12350 but can vary from 4000 to 13600. This means the minimum tonnage would be 0.32 ton. The power consumption varies from 220 to 1300W while the normal is 822W. All this information is from Daikin specifications. I wonder when your display reads 8%, if the compressor is actually off as you stated that it becomes uncomfortable and the humidity increases?

The displays shows those three options set temperature, current temperature and outdoor unit load. It doesn't alternate though, it just stays on the chosen display mode.

The daikin 1 ton model only goes to 4000btu but the 1.5 ton and 1.8 ton models goes down to 3400btu that's like .28 ton. Again all MHI models 4 and 5 star operates as low as .28 ton.

At 8% reading the compressor is still On and the Outdoor unit fan is also running at lower speed. The lowest reading that I have seen it go for a few seconds is 3 to 4%, typically in night when the set temperature is already reached and the outdoor temperature is really low and then it goes to a sustained speed of 8% .

I tried to measure the power consumption of blower fan speed only but the amp draw is so low that it's within the margin of error of the clamp meter.(also cannot zero the reading) .

[aim120]

Originally Posted by wolf_lone

I will add one more thing... I also have JTKM 1.5 Ton & I've connected Sonoff POW R2 which calculates real time power consumption as well. The max I've seen @ FL is 2049 watt power consumption which remained for 10-15 seconds before starting to normalize to ~1900 watt. After another 2-3 minutes it falls to ~1600 watt.

Room Temp > Set Temp > Compressor Load (in %) > No Display

Never seen mine go that high even on powerful mode. It is not even supposed to go more then 1700watt. Mine is usually runs at 13xx watt at full load. That was measured in TRMS clamp meter and the utility meter, all readings taken when the Ac was brand new in 2017. Haven't measured again. But I wonder why yours consume that high or is Sonoff not accurate.

Also whats the pipe distance between your outdoor and indoor unit and how many hrs does it run in day and for how many months, years.

Mine has run only in summers late feb to july for 8 to 10 hrs a day, with factory stock length pipe.

[wolf_lone]

Originally Posted by aim120

Never seen mine go that high even on powerful mode. It is not even supposed to go more then 1700watt. Mine is usually runs at 13xx watt at full load. That was measured in TRMS clamp meter and the utility meter, all readings taken when the Ac was brand new in 2017. Haven't measured again. But I wonder why yours consume that high or is Sonoff not accurate.

Also whats the pipe distance between your outdoor and indoor unit and how many hrs does it run in day and for how many months, years.

Mine has run only in summers late feb to july for 8 to 10 hrs a day, with factory stock length pipe.

As I mentioned such high wattage is only for 4-5 seconds. It settles after that. JTKM has max power consumption of 1700 watt as per company specifications & rated power consumption is 1315 watt. The AC was bought in Oct 2017 & used in heavy load conditions. West facing room (192 sq ft) with terrace on top. Large single pane glass windows towards the west, Piping is ~5.5 mts long. I use the AC for about 7-8 months in a year for ~10-14hrs daily in the summer months & 8-10hrs in other non summer months.

I would like to put emphasis here that this is for Full Load when I select Power Chill function. On its own without Power Chill even in Full Load it does not reach such high wattage power consumption.. but hovers to max ~1800 watt & then starts to settle down.

One more thing, I also have installed V-Guard (VWI 400) stabilizer which consumes ~30-40 watt even if AC is switched off so that high figure has this no. added into the reading as well...

[Lobogris]

Originally Posted by aim120

The displays shows those three options set temperature, current temperature and outdoor unit load. It doesn't alternate though, it just stays on the chosen display mode.

Originally Posted by wolf_lone

Full Load or any other percentage value on display only denotes compressor load & not the actual power consumption in percentage.

Thanks for the information. When I said the display alternates, I meant each press of the button changes it to the next value. However, I still suspect that the displayed value is power consumption and not compressor load. In you own data provided above, the compressor can theoretically go down to a minimum of .28 tons. Then how is it running at 8% and even less at times?


Take a look the link below. The 4th item in second column explains what the indoor units displays:

http://daikinacsolutionsplaza.com/da...hyderabad.html

[aim120]

Originally Posted by wolf_lone

Piping is ~5.5 mts long. I use the AC for about 7-8 months in a year for ~10-14hrs daily in the summer months & 8-10hrs in other non summer months...

On its own without Power Chill even in Full Load it does not reach such high wattage power consumption.. but hovers to max ~1800 watt & then starts to settle down.

One more thing, I also have installed V-Guard (VWI 400) .

I also have the exact same V-guard stabilizer but it never consumes that much max it goes to 13xx watts including stabilizer. I guess the piping length makes a difference in power consumption.
Did they fill extra gas during installation, was the gas refilled in the 2 years of usage.
Whats the lowest you have see in the display and at what temperature.

Originally Posted by Lobogris

However, I still suspect that the displayed value is power consumption and not compressor load. In you own data provided above, the compressor can theoretically go down to a minimum of .28 tons. Then how is it running at 8% and even less at times?

I am coming to the same conclusion, I mean the easiest and cheapest way for them to measure the load is via power consumption. But if it was power consumption alone, the display should have also shown the reading for the Fan only mode, except that the display is disabled in Fan only mode, my guess is that the current draw is too low to display.

[coolmel]

Hi guys, need your help. We have x2 LG window AC's, 1 & 1.5 ton each respectively. They are probably 15 plus years old. For the summer, Dad got some local AC mechanic to clean and service. He has ended up spoiling both units. They make a heck lot of whirring noise which never used to happen. I ended up blasting him for a shoddy job. Also, we are going to renovate our space within a few months. I am left with these questions:

1. Do you know any good LG mechanic in Mumbai? I am in the western suburbs. I have tried reaching out to LG but no luck whatsoever.

2. If the AC's cant be fixed I am left with no choice but to sell em off. In that case I don't mind buying a good cheap 1 ton ac for the time being until we begin renovating. Which ones would you recommend? Was inclined towards OGeneral but pricey.

3. Post renovation we will be upgrading to split AC's. Our use is mainly during the summers. Capacity would be 1.5 tons I guess. Again I am inclined towards OG, Daikin, Mitsubishi, Carrier. Which ones will offer a good long term run? Please do suggest.

Thanks very much in advance.

[wolf_lone]

Originally Posted by aim120

I also have the exact same V-guard stabilizer but it never consumes that much max it goes to 13xx watts including stabilizer. I guess the piping length makes a difference in power consumption.
Did they fill extra gas during installation, was the gas refilled in the 2 years of usage.
Whats the lowest you have see in the display and at what temperature.

The lowest I've seen is 2% on temp display. The stabilizer consumes 30-40 watts since I've connected Sonoff before the stabilizer & on switching on the power when the AC goes into standby (Initial Louvre down & close action), Sonoff is only reading stabilizer power consumption since neither outside nor inside fan are working.

Also there was no gas recharge done on the AC. Its still on what was supplied with the unit. What I so have is many bends, 8 in total in the 5.5 mts length piping. room location also adds up the load as well. Also day temp outside reaches +44C in summers. Right now its +40C daily & we still have two more months of summers left.

[sunilkm]

Hi All,

I would like to understand the difference between Auto and Cool mode in Panasonic AC.

I usually keep it 24C in Auto mode and Auto Fan. As per the manual it adjusts the room temperature based on outside temp in Auto Mode. I am putting it in Auto and with sleep mode enabled at night so that it increases 1C every 3 hours or so.

I have few questions:

1) What is the difference between Auto and Cool mode? I have set it in cool mode and could not feel much difference from Auto mode. Which mode is preferred and energy efficient?
2) Is there anyway to know the load at which compressor is working? When I start the AC I can feel the air flow noise as it is full speed. After sometime the noise and speed reduces. Does that mean compressor is working on reduced load as the room temperature reached the set temperature?

Thanks

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by sunilkm

I would like to understand the difference between Auto and Cool mode in Panasonic AC.

Auto means that as you approach / hit the set-point fan speed reduces. In other words the fan speed starts at High and as the set point is approached it becomes Medium and then Low.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by sunilkm

I would like to understand the difference between Auto and Cool mode in Panasonic AC.

Auto Mode is not too different from leaving the Fan Speed in Auto. A sensor on the air conditioner is supposed to detect room temperature, humidity levels and decide what mode it should function as. This could be Cooling, Dry Mode, Quick Cool, Heat (If it can also act as reverse heat pump), etc.

Inverter air conditioners have variable speed compressors. If you have a non inverter model, the compressor speed stays ON no matter what mode (Aside from Fan Mode) you choose and even if the indoor unit fan spins down as set temperature is gradually achieved.

For non inverter units, Sleep mode set at 22 degrees tends to strike a nice balance for cooling and energy efficiency. The air conditioner may tend to over work for the first 4 hours post which the compressor should start cutting out.

Leave it in Cool Mode, if cooling down the room is what you want. Auto Modes are sensor dependent and not exactly intelligent. Some top of the line "connected" (To the internet) air conditioners may perform better but I have not used one so can't comment.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Condensers choked with dust. This is best done by wet cleaning the IDU and ODU.

Thanks Aroy. The IDU was removed and taken for cleaning, nitrogen was used and also the rusted ends were painted. There was a lot of oil in the pipes at the point where the IDU copper is connected to the extended copper to reach the ODU. The ac mechanic did a great job and while fixing it back found the nut was cracked leading to gradual gas leak. The nut cracks due to over tightening. Then he checked my Samsung 2T that was forming ice and found gas pressure at 20psi. Again here he found the nut was cracked due to over tightening. The 50uf capacitor was also melted. Was good to see that he vacummed the condenser and let the gas go and filled both my units with fresh gas. Now both acs are working very well.

[prasad-hyd]

Originally Posted by geotracks

I'll PM you the details of the dealer as well as a contact I know from the local Mitsubishi marketing office. The manager from the local Mitsubishi office can guide you well. I too had asked for his advice & recommendation for my needs.

Warranty is standard 5 years (unlike LG or Samsung which may offer a longer period warranty) on the compressor.

Hi geotracks,
Thank you for your helpful reply. I did not get your PM yet. With the rising temperatures this has become a hot button issue in our house. Could you please post here as it might be helpful to fellow Hyderabadis who might be researching this topic in future? I will use their guidance as well.

So this is a 5 years all inclusive warranty or is it an extended warranty? Does it cover PCB, compressor and all other major components?

Once again thank you,
Prasad

[avinash_m]

Guys - requesting some guidance around the best possible solution for the cooling needs in my flat.

I have a rectangular area comprising of drawing/dining/living totalling around 486 sqft. And it is not sealed as the dining opens up to a kitchen as well. The builder has already given specific wall points, 1 each in drawing and living (with dine in between) for 2 IDUs, with copper piping, drainage and sockets pre-installed. The issue is, I don't want to put 2 separate ACs as we've some other plans for the drawing. But
I don't really want to play/modify the std. location(s) either. What is the tonnage capacity I should be looking at and whether a single (large) unit can suffice the cooling needs - suggestions welcome!?
It is an east facing flat, with a large french door on the side of living. My usage would be restricted to the summer months in Hyd, for about 3-5 hrs(max)/day.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by avinash_m

I have a rectangular area comprising of drawing/dining/living totalling around 486 sqft.

I have been exploring acs with long throw (high air flow) and found Mitsubishi Heavy Industries to have models in the Fixed Speed as well as Inverter series that can reach upto 18 Meters. They have some in the 2.2 and close to 3T capacity as well. Below is an example but they have many models that you can look at. I am considering a few of their newest models that are due to hit the market in the next week or two.

[Guite]

Time to get another split AC. Daikin inverter specs mention power consumption from ~280 to ~880 watt for 1 ton 5 star. Lg specs for similar capacity and rating lists power consumption as ~930 watt. Does it mean Lg will consume at a constant rate of 930 watt? Lg is their dual inverter range.