[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Twist in the tale.
I washed the condenser area.
Switched on AC, put a clamp meter. and it is showing 10.1-10.5 steady. Not rising. over 5 hours of continuous operation(I put temp at 20 degree so it never switches off), and the current does not rise.
This is seriously weird. Just splashing water at the back and side of the AC.

They did not clean the condenser. Get a hose, disconnect power, and use a brush to fully clean the condenser. Maybe take the AC out of the housing. It should be fixed for a few years!! You will also get a lower power consumption as a bonus.

This is essentially what a serviceman calls a wet service.

[Max]

Originally Posted by Abhi_abarth

Hello all,

As my query for a 1.5 split 3 star a/c (non-inverter) has been answered in the below post. My mind is still toggling between other brands too. I can stretch my budget to 35 k now. Can you please suggest me a value for money and reliable product.

The other brands that are tempting me are :
Daikin
Hitachi &
blue star.

Request you all gurus to enlighten me, I have to decide asap

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/gadget...ml#post3405946

Do you have OGeneral dealer in your area? OGeneral air conditioners are the best. All over dubai, they use OGeneral and trust me you can't live in dubai with a/c and it has to be damn good

I own LG and OGeneral both, LG is good but OGeneral is little better Have also heard good things about Onida A/c.

[KRN]

I am looking at buying a new Split A/c for a guest bedroom. Room is 10'x15' with a large 6'x6' west facing window and a sloping high roof (12' to 13' high). Room gets extremely hot in summer.

Looking for some guidance here

1. What tonnage? Obviously 2T is a safe bet, but don't feel like plonking too much money given that this room will get used hardly 6 to 7 days a month (10 hours each day). Can a good 1.5T cool the room in Chennai summer?

2. I am thinking of 3 star and non inverter. Any recommended "value for money" brands?

I am looking for good service, longevity& reliability of AC (at least 6 to 8 years life) and value for money brands.

Making a decision in next day or two. Please suggest!

KRN

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

They did not clean the condenser. Get a hose, disconnect power, and use a brush to fully clean the condenser. Maybe take the AC out of the housing. It should be fixed for a few years!! You will also get a lower power consumption as a bonus.

This is essentially what a serviceman calls a wet service.

Actually, when they came with the AC it was totally clean.
Now new twist in tale. I started the AC and put the clamp meter. Current started around 8ish and gradually rose to 10.3 and continuously hovering between 10.3-10.4
Then the AC compressor cuts out and does not start again. I have put water, but no result.
Over current trip should happen around 13A, right, not at 10.3A.

I am suspecting low refrigerant. They filled in gas, but obviously not fully

[khoj]

Daikin is the best of the lot. Hitachi is ok but bad service setup. Blue Star is best left for "Daddy Cool"

Originally Posted by Abhi_abarth

The other brands that are tempting me are :
Daikin
Hitachi &
blue star.

Whirlpool, 1.5 Ton if usage is only at night. Otherwise a 1.75 or a 2 toner.

Originally Posted by KRN

I am looking for good service, longevity& reliability of AC (at least 6 to 8 years life) and value for money brands.

Making a decision in next day or two. Please suggest!

KRN

You may want to check the starting & running capacitors.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Now new twist in tale. I started the AC and put the clamp meter. Current started around 8ish and gradually rose to 10.3 and continuously hovering between 10.3-10.4
Then the AC compressor cuts out and does not start again. I have put water, but no result.
Over current trip should happen around 13A, right, not at 10.3A.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by khoj

You may want to check the starting & running capacitors.

After it shut down today, I poured water on condesor. Started working after a few minutes, and hasn't shut down since. MAx current is now 10.1-10.2

I feel very weird checking the clamp meter every few minutes.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

After it shut down today, I poured water on condesor. Started working after a few minutes, and hasn't shut down since. MAx current is now 10.1-10.2

I feel very weird checking the clamp meter every few minutes.

Is it icing up? The fan is not transferring enough resulting in coolant to freeze up, ie if gas levels are ok.

[KRN]

Originally Posted by khoj

Whirlpool, 1.5 Ton if usage is only at night. Otherwise a 1.75 or a 2 toner.

Thanks khoj! Was thinking of Voltas, will check out Whirlpool as well. Any other brands that I should look for?

On a related note, our 3 year old Hitachi Window is giving cooling problems for the past few months. I am running the AC set at 16C, else it doesn't cool the room sufficiently. Compressor cuts off before the room gets cooled and I noticed that ice also forms at times after few hours of running. Looks like it could be either be insufficient gas or a blower issue (someone else in this thread has similar problems!).

The Hitachi guys have said that it could be a problem with the temperature sensor and want to replace the entire panel at Rs. 2k! I am not letting them figure this out by trial and error. Any theories on what the actual issue could be?

[P.S.Grewal]

Hello everyone, Just renovated my home and removed all the existing old ac's (windows as well as splits). So time to buy new inverter splits. My final choice was Mitsubishi ,Diaiken and hitachi. Thought about sharp for some time but dropped it cause it is entirely built of aluminum . Friends we are into electronics retail and wholesale , so have a through knowledge about ac's . Dropped daikin at final selection cause it had R32 and bald looks. Now final contenders were Mitsubishi heavy duty inverter cooling only with R410 Thai made. Final price which I got was Rs 50500/- for minimum two ac order. The pack included no copper piping. but but but the indoor unit was really really small. I was a bit apprehensive , the smaller the unit lesser the surface area of the cooling coil. So finally bought hitachi ace inverter tropical ac. Friends it is really wonderful . Got the ac for Rs 49500 with free installation . The pack included 14 feet copper connecting pipes . The ac is up installed and running. Believe me the ac is magic. AC starts from 1amp and goes up to 6.5amp for some time and then starts coming down all the way down to 2.0 amp. My room is on top floor with all three sides open to sun light, it becomes really really hot. So always wanted an AC which can withstand extreme tropical temperatures . Hitachi is an ac which is specially made for India. Amp clamp meter pics are attached along with this post.

[revved_up]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Skip the voltage stabilizer and the Sharp comes within your budget.
Stabilizers, particularly the cheap ones sold by most dealers, are not really needed and my personal belief is that they can do more harm than good!

Originally Posted by khoj

All AC s can work without stablizers. Agree with Mathur sahib, get the dealer to deduct the price for the stabilizer.

R410 is R410, be it in any make's machine.

Some models of Sharp do have an ionizer built in. Whether this works independent of the compressor circuit is something you should check out. Actually it should but then no harm in verifying.

The piping kit that comes along with Sharp machines is of very good quality. Moreover it is highly likely that the piping kit that you have would not be compatible with the 410 gas and you would need to discard the same. Do check.

The kit sold by Daikin's installers is nowadays a lottery. Most of them fob the R22 gauge piping for 410 installs. Wonder what they are doing for the R32?

At this point in time for the ongoing season Sharp has the best service setup followed by Panasonic, then Daikin and the rest.

Bought the Daikin Inverter(FTKP, 1.5 Ton) yesterday. Got it for 42K +installation + stand.
Hope it serves me good , while i was at the store, I saw alot of Daikins being sold, way more than other brands.

Also, did not get a stablizer, going by Daikin's claim of "Stablizer free operation". Hope all stays well.

Last but not the least, thanks to Khoj and anupmathur for their valuable inputs.

Cheers.

[donzerus]

Originally Posted by donzerus

Warning to fellow Chennai members: Avoid Rathna Fan House and Panasonic

Last week, I bought a Panasonic Inverter Chrome A/C from Rathna Fan House, Chennai who is one of the biggest A/C dealers in Chennai and is also listed as one of the "Panasonic A/C Exclusive" dealers and was told at the time of purchase that the A/C would be installed by the authorized service centre guys.

The A/C was delivered and installed the next day when I was not at home. Later got to know from my wife that the lines were not evacuated, instead some gas was purged into the atmosphere.

I raised a case with the Panasonic helpline. They came back telling me that the A/C has been installed by some 3rd party and not by authorized service centre and hence would not be covered under warranty at all. Tried reasoning with the Panasonic helpline but the case has been closed.

It's really disappointing to know within a week of purchase that my A/C is out of warranty cover for no fault of mine. Feel let down by Panasonic and the dealer.

Originally Posted by abbey4u

Hey donzeros. You shouldn't let it go. And further escalate the matter with panasonic. There are free service and i am guessing 5 years warranty which you can not loose for no fault of yours.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Panasonic should not get away with this, but the first in line is Rathna Fan House. It is dreadful that both these business are acting like this.

Keep us informed. If you do not get satisfaction, Rathna and Panasonic will be the Skoda of the T-BHP AC thread.

I'm sad to see two supposedly good companies have come to this.

Panasonic has washed its hands off. I spoke to one of the reps from their regional office who told me clearly that since the unit was installed by a "3rd party" its out of warranty and all repairs need to be paid for.

Need expert help here. Do you think its worthwhile now to vacuum the pipes to remove air given that the pipes are 3.5 metre length?
If they need to be vacuumed, considering that the air and gas would have been mixed already, is it possible to remove only the air from the mixture or the existing gas needs to pumped out completely and new gas refilled?

What would be the approximate cost of refilling the R410a gas?

It's so frustrating that after spending months of comparing and researching, to end up with an AC that's out of warranty the moment it's installed at my home

[Thad E Ginathom]

Bad news. But how about Rathna Fan House? They are the ones who took your money and put it in their till.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Hi Sgiitk
Need your help and advice. I also have a 24inch industrial exhaust fan based cooler which runs at 900rpm. Problem is that it is quite noisy when it runs. .....
Can you suggest any way to reduce the fan speed and the noise. I have tried Triac based dimmers but they cause the fan to hum and also heat up. ....

Have you found a solution to your problem?
I also have a 24 inch, 900 rpm, GE Alstom fan based cooler. I have been using an off-the-shelf Rider solid state voltage controller rated for 600 watts. This has been serving me well for over a decade.
At low rpms there is very little noise from the cooler. I run it typically in the 300 to 500 rpm range.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by KRN

On a related note, our 3 year old Hitachi Window is giving cooling problems for the past few months. I am running the AC set at 16C, else it doesn't cool the room sufficiently. Compressor cuts off before the room gets cooled and I noticed that ice also forms at times after few hours of running. Looks like it could be either be insufficient gas or a blower issue (someone else in this thread has similar problems!).

Icing indicates either a very low refrigerant, or choked blower. I had (still have) a Videocon which developed a very porr airflow issue. Finally my mechanic opened the top cover, and then thoroughly cleaned the blower. The most effective way was to hold a screwdriver touching it, and totating by hand. The slight 'taps' cleaned the dust pronto.

[Thad E Ginathom]

I do it myself with a paint brush. Poking the brush inside, and touching the cylindrical fan, while the machine is running, dislodges some muck. Rotating the fan by hand, while brushing the blades side to side, is more effective, but tedious work.

It is a dirty job. I head straight to the shower afterwards, speckled with muck all over. Of course, the room is also sprayed with dust, so consider covering stuff up.

A layer of dust on the fan blades seems to ruin their performance. Cleaning makes a huge difference.