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We have an Ion-Exchange undersink unit, about 15 years old (although substantially rebuilt after 2015 flood immersion). It has its own tap. It also has a pressure cylinder. It's flow is fine for its purpose, and due to the pressure cylinder, it doesn't immediately stop in case of power cut.

But if flow rate is what you want, well... how big is your wallet? :lol: You can get RO plant for whole houses, commercial bottling, all the way up to desalination plants that help provides water for cities!

Under the sink RO? Now that's new to me, where can I find more details and pros/cons of under sink vs above ROs? I had shortlisted Aquaguard Sure Delight NXT RO+UV+UF, anybody has any review for this model?
https://www.amazon.in/Aquaguard-puri...56&sr=8-3&th=1

Since I am in the look out for a best kitchen platform material, I had shortlisted Granite. Did not opt for Quartz as they were expensive, seller doesn't know what is the material used and prone to stains if not immediately removed. Also sticking to stainless steel sinks and not going for the quartz or the waterfall type. Hope my decision pays well.

Under sink unit fits below the platform and the tap is installed on the sink. Main advantage is that it offers clean look to the kitchen and saves space over the counter. It needs electrical point, water inlet and outlet options below the sink where it would be installed. Attaching the Kent RO example from their website. This is the one I have.

My AC search continues and since it is quite an investment i have been taking time.

I was checking various ACs and i found a wide variation in the 'Cooling capacity (100%)' values mentioned in the BEE label for the same capacity ACs.

For example- For a 1.5 ton ac I have found 'Cooling capacity (100%)' to be anything between 4400 W to 5200W. What exactly does this mean?
Does it represent the amount of power required for the same amount of cooling which will mean a 4400W ac will be far more efficient than the 5200W ac with no difference in the cooling or
Does it mean that the lower wattage ac will have lesser cooling and hence will take longer to cool and probably less efficient

I was unsure and realised the sales guys in the stores have no idea.
I would greatly appreciate if the experts can demystify it for me

The Cooling Capacity (100%) on a BEE label (e.g., 4400 W to 5200 W for a 1.5-ton AC) measures how much heat the AC removes per hour, not the power it consumes. Higher capacity (e.g., 5200 W) cools faster and suits larger rooms, while lower capacity (e.g., 4400 W) cools slower and fits smaller spaces.

Mine is Zero-B.

I think, actually, it is one of the commercial models with higher flow rate. It is 15 years ago and I don't remember, but recall my wife wife wanting to spend more money for a higher flow rate.

We don't notice short power cuts. In fact, should we wish to, it takes a while to run away the water in the pressure vessel.

I am using AO smith model Z2 pro. It has got 7 stage filtering and looks very neat and clean with a single unit. I have been using it for now almost 2.5 months and so far no issues. You get around 6.5 litres at a time.

Thanks a lot for the clarification. If this is the amount of heat removed what does the tonnage measure? I thought it is the tonnage which is the measure of the amount of heat removed per hour. So i was under the impression that the amount of heat removed by a 1.5 ton ac would be the same for all

Also how is this correlated to the power consumption. Does it mean the power consumption for the higher capacity one will be more at any point of time compared to the lower capacity?
How is this correlated to the efficiency and power consumed?

You are spot on. Ton refers to the amount of heat an AC can remove per hour. While it is is a rough guide to heat removal capacity, the "Cooling Capacity (100%)" on the BEE label is the precise, tested value for that specific model. An AC with a higher cooling capacity (5200 W) will typically consume more power than one with a lower capacity (4400 W) if they’re operating at full load, because it’s doing more work for removing more heat in a shorter time. However, this isn’t a strict rule—it depends on the efficiency of the system.

The "Tonnage" of an AC is the Nominal value. It used to be fixed for older AC's with fixed speed. Now with "Inverter AC" technology and variable speed compressor, the 1.5T nominal figure may vary from 1.7T (~115%) to 0.2T (~15%). In most inverter AC's there is a "boost" mode that boosts the cooling for the first 1/2 hour or so. The BEE rating should reflect the maximum cooling capacity.

Any folks here using a Dishwasher at home? I was scouting for options and seem to liked this LG one; don't want to take a risk with other brands. Since I am a total noob in this regard, suggestions are welcome, especially regarding utility, servicing, running cost, etc.

https://www.reliancedigital.in/produ...rch_collection

In India, we've had Bosch dishwashers of one kind or the other for the past 25 years. My mum tends to get one without bells and whistles as they are used not just by us but by the staff as well so she prefers ones with simple controls. Think dials with at most 4 settings (eco, express, half load and some kind of delicates I think). The other thing we've always looked for is the racks but more importantly the rails. On cheaper dishwashers it's those rails that fail first and then your upper tray in particular becomes a menace.

The fancier models have more you can do within each tray in terms of changing layout, prongs etc. But honestly if you're creative about stacking, you can get by fine.

Service people in India have always told us that dishwashers can't handle Indian cooking and everything requires a thorough rinse before putting in. Which defeats the whole purpose. My family all subscribed to this. Took my wife and I many visits and demonstrations of us just throwing dishes in as is (scrape off any food still on the plate of course unless you want to stick your hand in to the drain filter to empty gunk periodically). You'll be pleasantly surprised how well they'll do with Indian cooking. My parents and the staff at home have come around at last.

The model you've selected looks like it's got quite a few niceties. I'm sure you'll be fine with it. I can't speak to how good LG models are but price wise I can tell you that our run of the mill Bosch was 57k in 2014 so honestly looks like you're getting a good deal to me.

PS: my mum has since informed me the cook has their own half size dishwasher from Bluestar but that's a recent purchase. Apparently designed "specially for Indian pots and pans" which I'm not fully convinced by.

The general rule of thumb though is get the standard full sized ones though instead of the narrow body or half size dishwashers because the efficiencies in terms of water and electricity use come from the standard large volume models.

Hope that helps

The IFB dishwashers are really tough and solid. The same goes for Siemens too. My folks have been using a Siemens for many years. And my Sister has been using an IFB for many years.

These are all priced at an acceptable level.

This model is quite a good option with 14 place settings and one with good reviews, however, I would recommend you purchase it either from Flipkart or Croma whichever has delivery to your location (Flipkart is cheaper but doesn't offer delivery to all locations)

https://www.croma.com/lg-14-place-se...7f5f395c51952a

https://www.flipkart.com/lg-dfb532fp...mf6d3d88635fcf

Other alternatives you could consider are:

A VFM Option from LG
https://www.flipkart.com/lg-dfb512fp...gpqsUH001LFUzP

This model from Bosch:
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08BCQ5W9M/...5001Rj7Yg&th=1

Another LG model with more features
https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07Q2PFV8D/...Z001HubLO&th=1

We have this model and the unit has been serviced many times. Sometimes it washes all night, wasting so much power. Get a BOSCH. I went for looks and fell into a trap.