[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Shouldn't the MCB trip?

MCB would trip if there is a short circuit or over draw of current than that rated for the MCB which is part of the circuit.

For Earth leakage or faults , RCCB/ELCB is the one which will detect the leakage and trip thereby preventing deadly consequences from a electrical shock. RCCB is a must in any circuit.

Originally Posted by meerkat

Well, here is an account of my recent experience with the electrical wiring done in my new flat:

--SNIP--
.

Sounds scary.

If would be better if you strip down the entire wiring and rewire the whole house starting from the distribution box with appropriate circuits for each part of the home using proper gauge wires with rated RCCB/MCB.

In our home, we have used
1 Sq Green color for Earth.
1.5 Sq Red/Blue/Yellow for Phase for 5A circuits
1.5 sq Black for neutral
2.5 sq Red/Blue/Yellow for Phase for 15A circuits
2.5 sq Black for neutral

We have 3 independent lighting and heating circuits for different parts of the home each with its own 2 pole MCB and a dedicated 2 pole RCCB each for lighting and heating circuit. In addition there is a 4 pole RCCB and MCB in the Electric Meter box as a failover

[Engine_Roars]

Had a real bad experience with Whirlpool refrigerator, have dropped an email to their customer care and I might even reach consumer forum depending on how this goes.

Email to Whirlpool Customer Care:
This is regarding refrigerator Model#13774(230 I-MAGIC 5ADG HC. Serial No. INCXXXXXXX) which I had bought somewhere in year 2014. Yesterday there was some power outage at my area & the fridge compressor started shutting off randomly resulting in no cooling.

I raised a complaint(PNXXXXXXX) today at your Toll free number & a technician was sent to address the issue. The technician zeroed upon & found the fault with circuit board which he said was fried because of power fluctuation. He also mentioned that whirlpool has discontinued the circuit board for this model & he will have to set up an external circuit to rectify the issue at a cost of 3400 INR.

I gave him a go ahead as I wanted to get the fridge working however I now have a few concerns which I would like you to address.
1. The auto-defrost function has stopped to work owing to this work around & non availability of circuit board from the company. I now have to remove the thermostat knob & press a pin kind of switch every time I want to defrost the fridge.
2. The external display panel & "Quick ice" function has stopped working too.
3. The work around has a warranty of 6 months, what happens if this goes kaput?
4. What ever happened to inbuilt stabilizer?

All this for a 5 year old fridge, please help me understand why I should not drag you to consumer forum. I am available at 97xxxxxxxxxx if you wish to discuss this however I would prefer email communication first.

Thanks,
A

[meerkat]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

.

If would be better if you strip down the entire wiring and rewire the whole house starting from the distribution box with appropriate circuits for each part of the home using proper gauge wires with rated RCCB/MCB.

In our home, we have used
1 Sq Green color for Earth.
1.5 Sq Red/Blue/Yellow for Phase for 5A circuits
1.5 sq Black for neutral
2.5 sq Red/Blue/Yellow for Phase for 15A circuits
2.5 sq Black for neutral

Thanks. As I had already mentioned, in my flat I did correct the wiring (wire gauge / MCBs etc. for the purpose) to the extent practicable. A wholesale rewiring was too troublesome, so I did have to make a judgment call in some cases!

I believe that your ground wire gauge (1 sq. mm) is too thin (as was mine, as originally installed). IIRC, as per code the minimum ground wire gauge should match the live / neutral wires upto 1.5 sq. mm, and, depending on purpose, one size down can be used above that. For 16A circuits one should use a minimum of 2.5 sq. mm.
.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by meerkat

I believe that your ground wire gauge (1 sq. mm) is too thin (as was mine, as originally installed). IIRC, as per code the minimum ground wire gauge should match the live / neutral wires upto 1.5 sq. mm, and, depending on purpose, one size down can be used above that. For 16A circuits one should use a minimum of 2.5 sq. mm.
.

Agree.

Ideally, that earth wire should not be carrying electricity for more than a few seconds since the RCCB/ELCB should trip. So hopefully, it should not cause any issues. But yes, you are right, i should have gone for 1.5 sq. minimum.

[carboy]

Originally Posted by carboy

The electrician came & check the plug point and said that there is nothing wrong with the point & the fault is in the machine. So have to call the LG customer support next.

Update on this. First of all, the washing machine is around 13 months old. I assumed it would be no longer under warranty but looks like the default warranty on this is 2 years so it was still under warranty.

So the LG guy came & it seems the problem is in the detergent tray. The detergent seems to build up in the detergent tray slowly. Since the water inlet goes through the detergent tray, it sort of gets throttled & some of it gets pushed back. The LG guy said to clean the tray regularly. Instead I got him to remove the detergent tray & I am planning to use the washing machine without a detergent tray & see how that goes. I still have around 11 months of warranty left, so there is still a lot of time to get this resolved.

[sunilch]

Hi Guys, this might be an amature question but how do you clean/service your washing machines?

I saw this video on FB and I am now thinking of getting my washing machine (Samsung fully automatic top loading, 4 years old) cleaned - either DIY or call a service guy. Does anyone here clean/service the machine? If so how?

So far we only clean the inner drum once a year with wet cloth soaked in Detol water and clean the filter inside the machine with regular water.

The video seems to be those extreme cases and hence seeking the general advice on the precautions to take.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by sunilch

Hi Guys, this might be an amature question but how do you clean/service your washing machines?

I saw this video on FB and I am now thinking of getting my washing machine (Samsung fully automatic top loading, 4 years old) cleaned - either DIY or call a service guy. Does anyone here clean/service the machine? If so how?

So far we only clean the inner drum once a year with wet cloth soaked in Detol water and clean the filter inside the machine with regular water.

The video seems to be those extreme cases and hence seeking the general advice on the precautions to take.

In more than 30 years of using front loading WM I have never cleaned one because it rarely requires cleaning. Only maintenance is to regularly clean the lint filter which over time collects lint and coins.

If you want to still clean the inside of the machine, use a hot cycle with a cupful of vinegar. That will get rid of surface dirt if any. Of course you should clean the body with warm water and soap once in a while.

[null]

Our old top load fully automatic washing machine is not spinning in the dry cycle (spins during wash & rinse cycles). As a result, the clothes are dripping wet after the wash. It makes the usual "guuuuuiooooiii" sound of the motor running at higher speed but the tub doesn't spin. Also, there are no issues for water draining out at the end during the initial cycles either.

Since it is spinning during the first two cycles, I don't suspect any issue with the coupler.

What could be the reason for the tub not to spin only during dry cycle (when it is supposed to spin very fast / higher RPM) even when motor is running? I suspect some belt to have come off, but then it works fine i.e. spins as needed in the initial cycles.

What should I inspect? Any suggestions before I open the back cover today? Just try to replace the belt which may be slipping at higher rpm??


PS: It is a BPL washing machine and service support doesn't exist. The local contact who used to check it during prev visits is not reachable. I want to explore once before trying to look for a new repair guy. Have a spares shop near by from where I can try to source the spares hopefully.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by null

Our old top load fully automatic washing machine is not spinning in the dry cycle (spins during wash & rinse cycles). As a result, the clothes are dripping wet after the wash. It makes the usual "guuuuuiooooiii" sound of the motor running at higher speed but the tub doesn't spin. Also, there are no issues for water draining out at the end during the initial cycles either.
.
.
.
PS: It is a BPL washing machine and service support doesn't exist. The local contact who used to check it during prev visits is not reachable. I want to explore once before trying to look for a new repair guy. Have a spares shop near by from where I can try to source the spares hopefully.

Most motors that have multiple speeds have multiple winding for different speeds. So if the high speed winding is gone it will not spin.
If the motor has more than two wires going into it then it has different winding.
Another reason can be that the high speed winding is not getting power. You can identify which wire goes for which speed by disconnecting the wires one at a time and observing which are used for normal cycle and which for high speed. If you can power the high speed winding and it spins then it is the connection, else the motor is gone.

[null]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Most motors that have multiple speeds have multiple winding for different speeds...

Thank you for the insight. Let me check when I open up the washing machine later today (hopefully). The motor running sound in the drying cycle made me assume the motor is indeed spinning without any issues.

Will report back if I figure out anything when I open it Thanks again.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by null

Our old top load fully automatic washing machine is not spinning in the dry cycle (spins during wash & rinse cycles). As a result, the clothes are dripping wet after the wash. It makes the usual "guuuuuiooooiii" sound of the motor running at higher speed but the tub doesn't spin. Also, there are no issues for water draining out at the end during the initial cycles either.

Since it is spinning during the first two cycles, I don't suspect any issue with the coupler.

What could be the reason for the tub not to spin only during dry cycle (when it is supposed to spin very fast / higher RPM) even when motor is running? I suspect some belt to have come off, but then it works fine i.e. spins as needed in the initial cycles.

What should I inspect? Any suggestions before I open the back cover today? Just try to replace the belt which may be slipping at higher rpm??

Turn off the power supply to the washing machine. Open the back cover now. Since you said that the motor runs at high speed as you hear its sound, there must be a separate belt driven from a smaller pulley which may have come off or broken. Check visually the pulley, belt arrangement. Replace as necessary.
If there is only one belt and one pulley set up, the motor may have additional winding for faster spin (follow Aroy Sir's advice). Other things being equal, generally motors in washing machines don't fail that often. Usual suspects are switches, control circuitry and CPU board. Switches can be cleaned with special switch cleaning spray.

[adi.mariner]

The geyser installed in our Bathroom is of the instant type (2 litres). The efficiency has gone down and the flow of the water has to be reduced to get Hot water at the outlet. I suspect it is because of scale formation on the heating coils. Any easy DIY solution for cleaning the coils or maybe any other problems?

[Miyata]

Any recommendations for a humidifier for use at home? I had earlier bought one of those hot-water mist humidifiers from a nearby pharmacy (Apollo, most likely). It's efficiency is on the poor side.

Now considering one of those ultrasonic ones. If anyone has any recommendation, do please share. Thanks.

Originally Posted by adi.mariner

I suspect it is because of scale formation on the heating coils. Any easy DIY solution for cleaning the coils or maybe any other problems?

Scaling would be the prime suspect. We have had to periodically replace the heating rod/coil in our geyser unit. Don't recollect the exact cost of the replacement coils, but our electrician used to get it from neighborhood shops for 1000/- or so.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Miyata

Any recommendations for a humidifier for use at home? I had earlier bought one of those hot-water mist humidifiers from a nearby pharmacy (Apollo, most likely). It's efficiency is on the poor side.

Now considering one of those ultrasonic ones. If anyone has any recommendation, do please share. Thanks.

We bought one of these Humidifier on Amazon and liked it so much that we bought another one almost immediately.

However, having bought the second one for the bedroom, I'd say it is a little too powerful for a small room. Even on minimum, it can pump up the humidity to 80%! Sometimes I wonder if my wife will not be happy until she has made it rain in there!

But, it does what it says on the box. It pumps out a stream of cool water vapour. It has a good-size reservoir and seems well made.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by adi.mariner

Any easy DIY solution for cleaning the coils or maybe any other problems?

Originally Posted by Miyata

Don't recollect the exact cost of the replacement coils, but our electrician used to get it from neighborhood shops for 1000/- or so.

I had changed the heating element in an older bajaj heater myself. Purchased it from a local electric store for under 400rs about two years back.