[Livnletcarsliv]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Just checked and the one I've been using for years isn't available anymore.

Amazon name: Count On 10 A, 220 W Voltage Protector Smart Plug for TV, Desktop Computer, Gaming Console, Router, Aquarium
Link: https://amzn.eu/d/fn6JSq3

Could see a poor replacement:

Amazon name: PROPLUG High/Low Voltage Protector Rated @ 15Amp with Surge Protection Plug
Link: https://amzn.eu/d/2Ug1lP8

Attachment 2376174

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What is the difference between what you have mentioned (https://www.amazon.in/PROBOX-Voltage...9S9T6LFY&psc=1) and this normal surge protector (https://www.amazon.in/PROBOX-Voltage...9S9T6LFY&psc=1)

Since I already have a stabilizer, is it enough that I just go with the normal surge protector?

[aks_karthik]

Originally Posted by Livnletcarsliv

I am planning to add the surge protector to the already existing stabilizer. Fingers crossed to continue a few more years with the existing TV.

Yes, good decision to go with fixing it.
I have been using surge protector for all my devices, still the panel has got kaput. but it's after 9 years, so no remorse.
Waiting for the fix and to enjoy watching/using it again.

[Aviator_guy]

The place where I stay in Bangalore is prone to frequent power cuts. I had a stabilizer for my previous Samsung LED tv but it still went kaput due to frequent power cuts resulting in frequent on and off of screen. Lesson learnt - Invested in UPS (APC 600VA for 40" LED and 1100VA for 50" QLED) so that tv is protected by surge as well as power cuts. Touch wood, it has been holding well and cherry on top is that I don't lose cable/OTT signal and can continue to watch the program while the generator kicks in. I have connected STB and wifi router also to the same UPS.

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by Livnletcarsliv

What is the difference between what you have mentioned (https://www.amazon.in/PROBOX-Voltage...9S9T6LFY&psc=1) and this normal surge protector (https://www.amazon.in/PROBOX-Voltage...9S9T6LFY&psc=1)

Since I already have a stabilizer, is it enough that I just go with the normal surge protector?

Both the links you mentioned appear to be the same, mate. The one I have has an ongoing digital readout of the voltage, which is what made me realize that we often get high voltage; further, as mentioned before, it allows a few custom settings including the voltage at which to cut off the current.

As before, stabalizers are slow to react, so the circuits are exposed to high current for longer thereby increasing the risk of damage due to overheated components. This appears to be a significant reason for malfunction. I do not use a stabizer at all.

Most surge/spike protectors are a joke, are made to a budget with little protection. The likes of Honeywell would be good, but somewhat expensive. In the old days, a company called Alfa used to make good spike+sugre protectors. They looked "local" though - don't think they are around anymore. I've been using one from them for my AVR for a couple of decades.

If you don't mind the spend (as Avaitor Guy said) a UPS from a good brand like APC, I expect, would get proper protection.

I took the midway route with the aforementioned plug; also because I have multiple audio and other devices in the same line with a lot of load, so a UPS would've been exorbitant in my case.

~~~~

Another point: IMO, in many cases, in this rapidly changing TV world, it makes better sense to go for a mid-priced TV with a decent warranty, and upgrade more frequently or when major problems arise. Bigger sizes are increasingly getting cheaper.

Further, panels in most TV's are made by a few manufacturers. What significantly differs is the picture enhancement (especially from low rez to a higher rez), which is further dependent on the software and what the hardware can handle. The enhancement part can be done by an Android Box which feeds a 4k signal to the TV, which can arguably give a better picture due to dedicated hardware. That way the TV is almost like a dumb panel.

If the signal/picture quality is good to start with, many so-called enhancements can make the picture worse too.

IIRC till recently, all OLED panels were made by LG, and QLED by Samsung. I think TCL too started producing QLED panels now.

If I were to buy a TV today, I think I'd go for a non-premium brand with the cheapest QLED I could find with a Samsung panel, and feed it via an Android box with good specs. I realize this understandably isn't everyone's cup of tea.

[Ketan]

Originally Posted by Aviator_guy

The place where I stay in Bangalore is prone to frequent power cuts. I had a stabilizer for my previous Samsung LED tv but it still went kaput due to frequent power cuts resulting in frequent on and off of screen. Lesson learnt - Invested in UPS (APC 600VA for 40" LED and 1100VA for 50" QLED) so that tv is protected by surge as well as power cuts. Touch wood, it has been holding well and cherry on top is that I don't lose cable/OTT signal and can continue to watch the program while the generator kicks in. I have connected STB and wifi router also to the same UPS.

I've got the similar situation. I have got a new TV recently and concerned about this frequent power failures affecting it. Although I have got a stabilizer (DIG200) and a surge protector (Belkin) in between for voltage fluctuations and surge protection.
I'm thinking of going with APC 660W line interactive UPS. I hope that should work. However, I'm not sure if the transfer time is fast enough to not shut the systems (TV+AVR+MediaPlayer) down during switch over. How is the noise from these line interactive UPS when kept besides the home theatre units, does it have any impact on listening to music/watching movies! I may have to get two of those, another for second setup (infrequent usage) as well that has similar components in the living area.


Also, I have got a question about Sony A95K. If anyone has got any clue!
When I go to Audio output on TV, there are only two options I see 1> TV Speakers and 2> Audio System. Now, this 'Audio system' includes Optical out from the TV and also the AVR connected on the eARC port. TV gives the preference to the AVR connected on eARC port when 'Audio System' is connected and I don't get the sound out from the Optical port on the TV.
The question would be, how do I send the sound output to Optical port on the TV, when AVR is also connected on eARC port at the same time. Turning off AVR doesn't work, the TV turns it back on as soon as I select 'Audio System' I can try checking CEC disabled so it doesn't turn it on, but then its there for a purpose of using only single remote to turn on all the 3 devices.
I started observing this only when AVR is connected to eARC, it wasn't the issue when it was not connected. I wish the sound output section on Sony had more options than just the two I mentioned, where I could exclusively select optical out.

[Aviator_guy]

Originally Posted by Ketan

I've got the similar situation. I have got a new TV recently and concerned about this frequent power failures affecting it. Although I have got a stabilizer (DIG200) and a surge protector (Belkin) in between for voltage fluctuations and surge protection.
I'm thinking of going with APC 660W line interactive UPS. I hope that should work. However, I'm not sure if the transfer time is fast enough to not shut the systems (TV+AVR+MediaPlayer) down during switch over. How is the noise from these line interactive UPS when kept besides the home theatre units, does it have any impact on listening to music/watching movies! I may have to get two of those, another for second setup (infrequent usage) as well that has similar components in the living area.

First thing first. Please select a UPS with right wattage so that it can take the load. I used to have APC 600VA for 40" LED TV but it did not work for 50" QLED TV so I had to purchase a bigger capacity UPS. As long as the UPS is right size for the load (TV + other accessories or system), the switch over is instant and there is no loss of power. I have connected TV along with set top box and wifi router. Not sure whether AVR system needs any special type of UPS though since I don't have experience with that.

Please be mindful that the backup duration is about 5-10 minutes depending on the UPS rating and appliances load. In my case, it works perfectly fine during switchover to generator (my apartment generator kicks in within 2-3 minutes). If you have a requirement for more duration backup then look for suitable higher capacity UPS. Hope this helps.

[Aroy]

Buying an electronic device today is a gamble. It may last for a decade or more, or it may fail within a couple of years. So it makes sense to get a mid range device rather than top or the range one, unless you want that PQ and other goodies that come with the higher cost one.

In fact a low cost TV (if PQ is satisfactory) at 1/3 the cost makes financial sense even if it lasts 2-3 years.

[mayukh42]

Originally Posted by Aroy

In fact a low cost TV (if PQ is satisfactory) at 1/3 the cost makes financial sense even if it lasts 2-3 years.

Even a low cost good PQ TV should last 3-5 years. In the bygone days several CRT TVs lasted like 15-20 years. We have one that is 22 years old.

TVs lasting less than about 5 years means they are largely e-waste, no matter how low the cost. End of the day they are just display units. Though the recent advancements in upscaling are probably the most important tech revolution in a long time.

[PreludeSH]

My Parent's Panasonic plasma is 14 years old and still great. Never used a stabilizer or surge protector. I am using it now in my home in a common area.

With my new OLED though I am using surge protector from Belkin. With my inverter I dont see the TV switching off when there is a power cut. I would never buy a mid range or lower TV since picture quality feels a joy to watch

[Ketan]

Originally Posted by Aviator_guy

Please be mindful that the backup duration is about 5-10 minutes depending on the UPS rating and appliances load. In my case, it works perfectly fine during switchover to generator (my apartment generator kicks in within 2-3 minutes). If you have a requirement for more duration backup then look for suitable higher capacity UPS. Hope this helps.

Thanks. Mine is 65" TV with AVR that has 9 channels (110w/channel) so need to figure out what is the max power requirement for this unit. During normal usage, it may not even be consuming half of what is rated. A medial player, that is either NVidia shield pro or ATV4K which should not take a lot of power, I guess I should be good with the 660w one, but will do a calc before I take a call. Also, I need that 2-3 minutes back up only before my society generate takes over upon a power failure/recovery. I have heard that the voltage from the generator or much more notorious than the mains so have to be careful during that backup phase.

Originally Posted by mayukh42

Even a low cost good PQ TV should last 3-5 years. In the bygone days several CRT TVs lasted like 15-20 years. We have one that is 22 years old.

TVs lasting less than about 5 years means they are largely e-waste, no matter how low the cost. End of the day they are just display units. Though the recent advancements in upscaling are probably the most important tech revolution in a long time.

Originally Posted by PreludeSH

My Parent's Panasonic plasma is 14 years old and still great. Never used a stabilizer or surge protector. I am using it now in my home in a common area.

With my new OLED though I am using surge protector from Belkin. With my inverter I dont see the TV switching off when there is a power cut. I would never buy a mid range or lower TV since picture quality feels a joy to watch

I usually prefer things that lasts longer so try to get to those whenever I'm out for the purchase, it may just pay well over a longer life with better quality most of the times. However, its not always true when it comes to electronics. I'm just trying to ensure that we don't create the e-waste (or any type) so frequently and use the product to the max life possible.
I have Sony BRAVIA 55W950B that is around for almost 9 years now and we still enjoy watching usual TV programs and movie on this great FALD.

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by mayankk

How is it holding up? My TCL is out after the replacement of the replacement TV also gave up.

Picked up the one plus 65 today. Was torn between the Redmi and this, and eventually settled on the OnePlus.
So far, so good. Brightness is much better than the TCL, and I also saw a hisense. The staff was crazy about it, saying this is much better than any other budget brand. Highest nits as per the spec sheet. Almost 1.5 times the OnePlus.
Also took Reliance additional warranty for 9k. All in, it came to 72k.

[vsrivatsa]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Just checked and the one I've been using for years isn't available anymore.

Amazon name: Count On 10 A, 220 W Voltage Protector Smart Plug for TV, Desktop Computer, Gaming Console, Router, Aquarium
Link: https://amzn.eu/d/fn6JSq3

I have this same Count On model and it works very well for my TV. I also wanted to buy a few more of those but it seems to be out of stock now and no sign of returning in stock.

Other option I can think of is most of the TVs support 110V to 250 V, so maybe we should get a Step Down and feed a lower Voltage itself as a safety measure?

[dadu]

This is for anyone who bought Samsung TV in Oct, as per the attached Oct 2022 extended warranty scheme is for 5 years and includes 10 years for Screen burn-in.

Can you check with Samsung support if it's reflecting 1 year or 5-year warranty for you?. The support center seems clueless and mentions the standard 1 year only.

How do you activate this 5 years warranty?

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by dadu

This is for anyone who bought Samsung TV in Oct, as per the attached Oct 2022 extended warranty scheme is for 5 years and includes 10 years for Screen burn-in.

How do you activate this 5 years warranty?

The 5 year one was applicable to select top end models only. For others, the offer was of 3 years. I haven't checked the portal, but I had dropped them an email and they confirmed that it is 5 years for my model. So there it is, I have it in writing.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by shipnil

The 5 year one was applicable to select top end models only. For others, the offer was of 3 years. I haven't checked the portal, but I had dropped them an email and they confirmed that it is 5 years for my model. So there it is, I have it in writing.

Even 3 years is worth it.