[M35]

Originally Posted by roy_libran

A few samples from my 'Siggy C' shot on the lowly D5200 @ 600mm.
The D500 IQ is a whole lot better.

Lovely compositions those, especially the second one.
With regard to the D500 IQ, I am not really convinced. For stationary subjects, how better would these be, may be a bit cleaner image as you seem to have recovered some details of the shadow !

Mind sharing any from your D500+ 'C' ?
Thanks and happy shooting

[ntomer]

I upgraded my too-long-in-the-tooth D300 to D500 last week.

D300 is 2009-made and never let me down; it still focuses faster than all Nikon DX bodies except D500, which is a beast when it comes to action photography.

I am a birder and camera is used primarily for bird photography (reason I went for D500 instead of D810) and D500's AF system, 10 FPS and high ISO performance lets me capture moments which I couldn't think of earlier.

I use Tamron 150-600 G1 and though I do not have much to complain about this lens, my heart is set on Nikon 300mm PF. This lens on D500 will be light, fast and sharp. My only apprehension is readh, 300mm will be too short.

Highly confused about it...

[SPARKled]

Originally Posted by ntomer

I upgraded my too-long-in-the-tooth D300 to D500 last week.

D300 is 2009-made and never let me down; it still focuses faster than all Nikon DX bodies except D500, which is a beast when it comes to action photography.

I am a birder and camera is used primarily for bird photography (reason I went for D500 instead of D810) and D500's AF system, 10 FPS and high ISO performance lets me capture moments which I couldn't think of earlier.

I use Tamron 150-600 G1 and though I do not have much to complain about this lens, my heart is set on Nikon 300mm PF. This lens on D500 will be light, fast and sharp. My only apprehension is readh, 300mm will be too short.

Highly confused about it...

Congrats on the new D500. The 300 PF F4 as did the old D lens takes 1.4 TC very well and with that you have a brilliant 600+ equivalent lens at 5.6 with great IQ. I used this combo for many years with the old 300 F4 D. But if you are used to 900mm equivalent with your Tamron you will most likely be very disappointed with just 600mm reach. My 200-500 has spoilt me with its IQ and VR and I just can't imagine going the 300 + 1.4 TC route ever again.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by ntomer

I upgraded my too-long-in-the-tooth D300 to D500 last week.

D300 is 2009-made and never let me down; it still focuses faster than all Nikon DX bodies except D500, which is a beast when it comes to action photography.

I am a birder and camera is used primarily for bird photography (reason I went for D500 instead of D810) and D500's AF system, 10 FPS and high ISO performance lets me capture moments which I couldn't think of earlier.

I use Tamron 150-600 G1 and though I do not have much to complain about this lens, my heart is set on Nikon 300mm PF. This lens on D500 will be light, fast and sharp. My only apprehension is readh, 300mm will be too short.

Highly confused about it...

300mm f/4 PF is great for BIF especially fast ones such as swallows etc. Otherwise 600mm better for other types of bird shots.

[rm_arjuna]

Originally Posted by navin_bhp

Use exposure compensation in such situations. If the camera underexposes you need to compensate with + value. I think the 70D has ±5 at 1/3 EV, 1/2 EV steps. If the picture is too bright underexpose with a - value. Rotate the rear dial to the right to overexpose. Hope this helps.

i am still a novice and learning,have tried exposure compensation during one of the canon training .Generally shoot with A or S modes with minor changes however want to learn more and experiment with different techniques .

Originally Posted by abhishek46

Use the Aperture priority or Shutter Priority modes.

From landscapes, in general, use a smaller aperture (f/9, f/11 etc).
Keep the ISO lowest possible.
Let the camera decide the Shutter speed, based on the calculate exposure.

If calculated shutter speed is greater than 1/10th, then use a tripod.

Guess i experimented with very low shutter speeds,all these shot with 18-135 STM kit lens .

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

You are increasing exposure by increasing ISO, and decreasing exposure by increasing shutter speed. So both balance out. Not sure what you were shooting (movement requiring high shutter speed?), trying to say or do. Or which mode you were in e.g. manual.

still been using only S or A modes, do not want to shoot in Auto mode . After seeing many pro snaps like yours and others in the forum , i am very eager to learn on basics and techique properly .

Some of Pics shoot during last trip , somehow the pics are not crisp or vivid and appear dark overall .

[M35]

Originally Posted by rm_arjuna

.
Some of Pics shoot during last trip , somehow the pics are not crisp or vivid and appear dark overall .

Not sure what metering mode you had dialled in. You have a bright background/ lot of light coming in, in all the images posted. Your camera’s light-meter is 'deceived' by the brightness around and hence under-exposing your main subject. There is a reason why you have that +/- exposure compensation button right at your eyesight on the camera. If the scene is too bright, dial in the positive exposure compensation, until your main subject is correctly exposed. Don’t overdo it as the sky might get blown out. Practice to get the right exposure of your taste.

BTW, What were you trying to capture?

[rm_arjuna]

Originally Posted by M35

Not sure what metering mode you had dialled in. You have a bright background/ lot of light coming in, in all the images posted. Your camera’s light-meter is 'deceived' by the brightness around and hence under-exposing your main subject. There is a reason why you have that +/- exposure compensation button right at your eyesight on the camera. If the scene is too bright, dial in the positive exposure compensation, until your main subject is correctly exposed. Don’t overdo it as the sky might get blown out. Practice to get the right exposure of your taste.

BTW, What were you trying to capture?

Metering is always set at evaluative mode , i have not tried other modes .All pics were general landscape and pics with my family members on the shore and the first one was taken around 11am from edge of the fort wall with adequate light but overcast without direct sunlight .

[M35]

Originally Posted by rm_arjuna

Metering is always set at evaluative mode , i have not tried other modes .All pics were general landscape and pics with my family members on the shore and the first one was taken around 11am from edge of the fort wall with adequate light but overcast without direct sunlight .

Even in weighted average mode, almost all the cameras get the exposure wrong with major part of your frame covering the sky. The key is click one, check the preview and then correct the exposure accordingly.

Also, when there is no 'drama' in the sky, such shots usually come out dull. Do focus on 'composition'. Even if you get the exposure right, a poorly composed image will just be lost and forgotten as just another random click.

[dpkbehera]

I just joined the DSLR club by getting a Nikon D3400. I would appreciate inputs/links from the experts in this thread on basics regarding the same.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by rm_arjuna

i am still a novice and learning,have tried exposure compensation during one of the canon training .Generally shoot with A or S modes with minor changes however want to learn more and experiment with different techniques .

Guess i experimented with very low shutter speeds,all these shot with 18-135 STM kit lens .

still been using only S or A modes, do not want to shoot in Auto mode . After seeing many pro snaps like yours and others in the forum , i am very eager to learn on basics and techique properly .

Some of Pics shoot during last trip , somehow the pics are not crisp or vivid and appear dark overall .

Your images appear dark as the average metering is confused by a lot of bright areas. To meter for the dark areas, use spot meter. Further if you shoot RAW, you can recover quite a bit from the shadows and some blown highlights.

In post processing you can easily change the brightness and contrast to give that "Vivid" look to the images.

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by rm_arjuna

Metering is always set at evaluative mode , i have not tried other modes .All pics were general landscape and pics with my family members on the shore and the first one was taken around 11am from edge of the fort wall with adequate light but overcast without direct sunlight .

There are no easy shortcuts re nailing exposure. Matter of reading (basic concepts e.g. what to do with a very bright or dark background) and experimenting. Exposure, metering etc.

This photo had the reverse problem as yours - the whites would have blown if one weren't careful, because of the dark (green) background.

Attack



This involved playing around with metering and exposure compensation.

Pastel sunset

[M35]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

There are no easy shortcuts re nailing exposure. Matter of reading (basic concepts e.g. what to do with a very bright or dark background) and experimenting. Exposure, metering etc.

Exactly.
Shot this against a bright Sun at noon. Had to dial in +1.7 exposure compensation for this shot. A long shot and heavily cropped for composition.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Congratulations to all bird photographers that get good pics of birds against bright sky!

Years ago, I was having dinner with my friend, visiting this city. They are both good photographers, and he is a full-time pro. I asked him about the bird-against-sky-problem. He reminded me that his speciality was photographing performing musicians in all sorts of weird and often low lights: he could not tell me anything useful about birds!

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Congratulations to all bird photographers that get good pics of birds against bright sky!

Years ago, I was having dinner with my friend, visiting this city. They are both good photographers, and he is a full-time pro. I asked him about the bird-against-sky-problem. He reminded me that his speciality was photographing performing musicians in all sorts of weird and often low lights: he could not tell me anything useful about birds!

Oh I ask the bird to come back again during golden light and sit somewhere.







Btw, bright sky helps in getting interesting silhouettes.

[Sunney]

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