[Dew2PNQ]

It is more likely that we will brakes more often in lower regen levels to slow the car down further. Hence, I think, though in theory there should be no difference, in practice higher re-gen will re generate more.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by MindFreak9874

One of the advantages of a higher regen mode is one pedal driving.

Even if you can't come to a complete stop, if you can slow down significantly enough for most scenarios, you can go a long way driving with just the accelerator pedal, only needing to brake to slow down faster or come to a complete stop.

But don't you have to keep the pressure on the A pedal to keep the momentum? With regular cars (or an EV set to zero regen) you ease the pressure on A pedal very often (when the car is coasting) and keep minimal pressure to keep up the momentum. I also assume the creep function doesn't work well when the regen is set.

[CarsAndDrives]

Was contemplating on Ioniq 5. Did a test drive and ticks all the boxes and quite impressive vehicle. The only challenge for me is that in our apartment we are only allowed to use the commonly installed bolt chargers which are quite slow.
Does anyone have any experience of using only publicly available chargers and if it is a feasible to purchase an electric vehicle given this handicap. Appreciate any feedback or inputs.

[koolkunz]

Originally Posted by CarsAndDrives

Was contemplating on Ioniq 5. Did a test drive and ticks all the boxes and quite impressive vehicle. The only challenge for me is that in our apartment we are only allowed to use the commonly installed bolt chargers which are quite slow.
Does anyone have any experience of using only publicly available chargers and if it is a feasible to purchase an electric vehicle given this handicap. Appreciate any feedback or inputs.

Would advise strongly against relying only on public chargers because the runnung costs then become almost as much as ICE cars. But people here have managed to run the car with slow power socket charging only, that is something you may consider.

[nidhikapoor]

Originally Posted by Dew2PNQ

It is more likely that we will brakes more often in lower regen levels to slow the car down further. Hence, I think, though in theory there should be no difference, in practice higher re-gen will re generate more.

When you 'brake' it uses regen and when it maxes out only then do the calipers apply.

[xfu67]

Originally Posted by CarsAndDrives

Was contemplating on Ioniq 5. Did a test drive and ticks all the boxes and quite impressive vehicle. The only challenge for me is that in our apartment we are only allowed to use the commonly installed bolt chargers which are quite slow.
Does anyone have any experience of using only publicly available chargers and if it is a feasible to purchase an electric vehicle given this handicap. Appreciate any feedback or inputs.

I’ve had my Ioniq 5 for over a year now and only use the 3.3kW charger plugged into a 15 amp socket. The 11kW charger that came with the car is still sitting in its box.
It’s slow—10% increase every 3 hours—but it has so far worked fine for me, especially since in any case I charge it overnight. In over a year, only once did a quick top up at a nearby public charger before a long trip, just to be safe. Usually plug it in the evening and disconnect the next morning, and keep it between 20 & 80. Let it go up to 100 when taking it out of town.
Admittedly, my daily driving distances are relatively low, but not had any problems with this setup so far.

[zandot]

Originally Posted by dockap

Got the car back same day evening but driver door lock issue persists. Door lock keeps opening by itself and sometimes locks by itself. Remote fob does not lock the driver door. Rest of the doors lock. I am unable to take the car out as driver door unlocks itself. Anyone else has this issue.

Same issue has cropped up with my vehicle as well. Randomly driver side door will decide to not close as if the inside handle is pulled open - even though it’s not.

Seems to be a latch issue however the SA didn’t do anything about it as it didn’t happen when they tried it. Did you manage to resolve it?

Most of the issues it seems we need to resolve ourselves by diagnosing and finding solutions online. Hyundai India seems to be sleeping or simply doesn’t care.

[Dew2PNQ]

Originally Posted by nidhikapoor

When you 'brake' it uses regen and when it maxes out only then do the calipers apply.

Then why we have different reg levels?

[zandot]

My Ioniq5 seems to be developing a host of issues after the recall update was done on the vehicle.

* Rear ADAS Sensor failure - addressed by Alcon Hyundai Goa
* Driver door not locking or staying shut - doesn’t always happen but seems to be getting worse. The latch does not hold the door shut until it is pushed from outside and the door handle pushed in - pending despite being highlighted when vehicle went in for the rear ADAS error.
* 12v battery discharged twice yesterday despite the vehicle having been driven over 100km that day - had to call Hyundai breakdown for jump start - new error.


All issues that have started AFTER the recall update being done on the vehicle. Vehicle was driven happily for 35000km. The only previous issue was at 5000km which was squeaking from the boot latch that I rectified myself.

If anyone from the Hyundai India Ioniq team is reading this - we know you do check this thread regularly - requesting you to pls get in touch with Alcon Hyundai to help rectify these issues as none of the numbers for the senior team seem to get a response anymore.

[MindFreak9874]

Originally Posted by Guna

But don't you have to keep the pressure on the A pedal to keep the momentum? With regular cars (or an EV set to zero regen) you ease the pressure on A pedal very often (when the car is coasting) and keep minimal pressure to keep up the momentum. I also assume the creep function doesn't work well when the regen is set.

You'd only have to keep minimal pressure.

Regen only works when your foot is completely off of the accelerator. Without regen, if your foot is completely off, the car would still slow down, just not as much.

I haven't driven an Ioniq, but at least on my Comet Regen is only active after 6-8kmph, the creep speed basically. So it does work well together IMO, I've gotten used to it.

[nidhikapoor]

Originally Posted by Dew2PNQ

Then why we have different reg levels?

For the different 'feel' that you get when driving.

[FR69]

Originally Posted by CarsAndDrives

Was contemplating on Ioniq 5. Did a test drive and ticks all the boxes and quite impressive vehicle. The only challenge for me is that in our apartment we are only allowed to use the commonly installed bolt chargers which are quite slow.
Does anyone have any experience of using only publicly available chargers and if it is a feasible to purchase an electric vehicle given this handicap. Appreciate any feedback or inputs.

Being in an apartment complex, I have used the 3.2 kW, 15A AC charging option only for the last 1 year use of my i5. I feel that’s the best option for an apartment due to the following reasons unless you have a significantly high daily commute:

1. The 11 Kw charger will require connected load enhancement and other statuary requirements from the respective electric company / state electricity boards. Huge waste of money when considering the standard and ‘greasing ‘ charges. Can easily do fast DC charging in case you need a full charge at a short notice . At a fraction of that cost you will have to spend on load enhancement.

2. As more dwellers turn to electric, putting up more 11 KW and 7.2 Kw chargers in an apartment complex can affect the connected load requirements to the entire complex necessitating changes to the transformer and other hardware setups. Unfair to the other owners who do not have EVs - right?

3. Try to keep your car SOC between 40 and 80%. You can easily pull in 30-35% of change by an overnight 12 hr charging on a 3.2 Kw charger which will easily give you 150 km range. This will help in a better maintenance battery health in the long run too .

[BRZRKR]

New infotainment update available. Apart from the features in the changelog, I could find an updated climate control screen which includes seat heating and ventilation functionality.

Will report back if I find anything else.

[chohan]

Originally Posted by huygens

Cracked my lower bumper: will it require full replacement or does it have detachable parts?

There's a crack on it and some scratches. In the third image, it seems like it's a smaller detachable part that could be replacement. Anyone with any experience with this here?

Could you fix that bumper? How did you go about the repair?

[chohan]

I was facing a super slow leak in my rear tyre (2 psi per week). After some investigation, I found a chunky nail pierced through the tread. I have a few queries about the correct way to fix punctures on Ev tyres with sound dampening foam inside:



Puncture Plug: Won't a traditional puncture plug from the outside push the foam while using the plug insertion tool? If that happens, loose foam could interfere with wheel balancing. I've read a few reports where loose foam made the tyre wobbly. What is the best way to use strip plugs without displacing the foam?

Patch Repair from Inside: What about patch repair from the inside? This would mean cutting a portion of the foam and performing some extensive sanding and scrubbing to remove foam residue. What kind of puncture repair shops in NCR would have the skill and understanding to perform this correctly?

Jacking Points: I don’t see any mention of the jacking points in the manual. Isn’t this a sensitive area where incorrect placement could jeopardize the battery? Does anyone know the correct way to lift the car?

TPMS Precautions: What precautions should be taken to safeguard the TPMS while servicing tyres? There are plenty of cases where improper handling of the job led to TPMS failure.

would appreciate any insights on these issues.

A great video showcasing proper method for EV tyres.

https://youtu.be/i2C1DMO-h8U?si=sB82UXkJ4IiXZX92