[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by sajjt

Hello experts,

I would like to purchase a crimping tool for wire connecting as some of my DIY projects are not neat due to the twisted wire joints. I am looking for this type of sockets and inserts to be crimped with this tool.

Attachment 522031
Attachment 522032

How much will be the cost of this tool?

First off, where you you get these connectors and what is the local name? I have asked around for wire connecting lugs and met by blank stares mostly.

[DerAlte]

'Crimping lugs' used with 'Crimping tool'. Your best bet would be the any industrial supply shop (usually located near industrial estates), or SJP Road / SP Lane in City Market area. Take a printout of pictures of lugs to facilitate communications .

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

First off, where you you get these connectors and what is the local name? I have asked around for wire connecting lugs and met by blank stares mostly.

I used to buy the female lugs from automobile spare shops where they have plenty of sizes for horn fixing and other utilities and am yet to find a place to get the male lugs

[JustCause]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

what is the local name?

Try any electrical shop. These lugs are used to connect capacitors in fans/motors. Be sure that you buy the right size. Take measurements of the lug width before going shopping. These are known as "Thimble" in local electrical shops.

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by sajjt

I used to buy the female lugs from automobile spare shops where they have plenty of sizes for horn fixing and other utilities and am yet to find a place to get the male lugs

Yeah, one electrical shop guy who knew what lugs meant had only female lugs with him. That too only one size.

Originally Posted by JustCause

Try any electrical shop. These lugs are used to connect capacitors in fans/motors. Be sure that you buy the right size. Take measurements of the lug width before going shopping. These are known as "Thimble" in local electrical shops.

I'll try Thimble next time.

[condor]

Picked up this Stanley mini-hacksaw today, approx price 150/-

Stanley Hand Tools: 10



Uses regular size hacksaw blades. Can even use blades that have broken in half. And operative size is small - either use the tip portion, or the middle section as required.

[black12rr]

^^ Nice ,where is this available ? .Is it made up of plastic or metal ?

[condor]

Check Metro / or there is a store on Commercial Street, near the Police station that has a lot of Stanley tools. The handle is not metal - but is light, sturdy and has a good grip.

[Thad E Ginathom]

I've got a cheaper version, without the extended blade holder. It is one of those things that sits in the bottom of the toolbox, looking cheap and useless, until the day comes when I have to cut something where a full-size hacksaw won't reach. Then it is the most valuable tool in the box.

Use unbreakable hacksaw blades ... or it could be the most frustrating tool in the box!

[condor]

@Thad, a pic would have a helped.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Use unbreakable hacksaw blades ... or it could be the most frustrating tool in the box!

which part ? I thought all blades will break sometime - or get blunt & have to be discarded. This Stanley can use half /broken blades too, as long as it can fit the center section (the arch). And for that it does not need to use the hole that's at the ends of the blades.


This Stanley mini is not expensive.

[Thad E Ginathom]

all blades will break sometime

Yes, they will.

Maybe I'm out of date (by just a few decades?) on this. When I was at school, it took real skill to use a hacksaw at all, because if you twisted the blade even slightly it would snap. Then there came more flexible blades that were more expensive.

One of my school-days blades would not last five minutes in this sort of handle. I guess things have changed!

[condor]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

.. if you twisted the blade even slightly it would snap.

They still will - isn't that how blades snap ?

One of my school-days blades would not last five minutes in this sort of handle. I guess things have changed!

Why do you say so ? I would have expected the opposite ! This one looks to allow only a small portion to be used - and hence reduce the amount of flex. I can initially start with the extended part, and then - where every possible, use the center section.

OTOH, I have used a cheap Chinese frame that does not even hold the blade firmly - and this causes a lot of blades to snap.

[Thad E Ginathom]

I was using mine the other day to cut through a rusted screw holding the fixings for the lid of a Sintex water tank. The angle wasn't absolutely straight, so the blade was being bent, but it didn't snap. I don't remember the full answer to this after forty years, but If I recall Correctly, they started making blades where the major part was tempered to be springy, and the cutting edge only was left fully hardened for cutting.

Or, errr... Something like that! <Blush>

[black12rr]

Originally Posted by condor

@Thad, a pic would have a helped. which part ? I thought all blades will break sometime - or get blunt & have to be discarded.

There are blades available that don't break , but just bend .They also last at least 10 times more and cost 5 times more .I have been using these blades for long time .

[mayankk]

Guys, I have a 150 odd bits auto specific toolbox.
It was in a plastic case with depressions to hold the bits.
I tend to keep it in the car, but found that the tools bounced around, and now the inner lining has lost its shape.
the tools just rattle around.
Can anyone suggest a replacement box?
something that will keep the tools in place and stop them from rattling?