[varun560061]

DIY – AT oil replacement for Innova 2.8 - AC60

As most of them who owns a Innova / Fortuner / Hilux or any AT car for that matter, the service centers are not happy to replace the AT oil stating its sealed for life.

I had the similar experience and after requesting a lot they agreed to replace the oil but not to flush and replace the filter. Basically they were just ready to drain the oil from the oil pan and fill back in, which is not the correct procedure.
I wasn’t convinced and started going through various forums and videos to understand how it is done properly. Let me not waste your time with too much of write up and lets straight away go into details.

Odo at the time of Oil change was 1,11,800 kms

Parts Required
• 8 Ltrs of Toyota WS oil (each can is 4 ltrs) – Part No 0888681855 – Approx. 4800rs each tin
• AT oil filter – Part No – 3533071010 – Approx. 3600rs
https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-oil_strainer-7279382/
• Oil Pan Gasket (optional)
• Brake cleaner / Carburetor cleaner (any make)



Tools Required
• Hose clip remover / nose plier
• 10 & 12 size ratchet / Tubular spanner
• 24mm Socket / Spanner
• Bucket & Jug with measuring scale
• 12v pump (funnel and pipe could be used in absence of pump)
• Allen key – M8
• IR thermometer
• Waste Rags
• Plastic prying tool (screw driver tip can be used carefully)
• Paint brush / Soft brush
• Jack stands



Note : Here I borrowed a mechanics space with a work pit which I could go under the car when the workshop was closed.

Step 1 – Loosen the filler bolt (24mm) on the GB (passenger side), this is to allow air in for the oil to flow out. Then drain the oil from the pan by loosening the drain plug with an Allen Key (m8 or equivalent in the ratchet set) . Make sure to drain the oil into the bucket which has measuring scale.
In my case I did a jugaad of marking the white bucket with 1 ltrs scales.



Step 2 – Unscrew the pan protector held with five – 12 size bolts. Once the protector shield is off, unscrew eight – 10 size bolts around the oil pan. Use prying tool / flat head screw driver to pry out the pan slowly.



Step 3 – Once the pan is off, let the oil drip out. Clean the oil pan and the 3 magnets with the brake cleaner and let it dry. My suggestion is to use thick paper towels to clean them up.
In this step you could notice how much wear & tear the GB has gone through by seeing the thickness of sludge on the magnets.





Step 4 – Time to remove the filter. Unscrew three- 10 size bolts holding the filter. Make sure you place the bucket before you pull the filter out. Slowly full the filter downwards, its just held by the O ring on the neck.
Once the filter is out, soak the paper towel /rag with brake cleaner and clean the surface including the pan mating surface.



Step 5 – Just apply a thin coat of new oil on to the new AT filters O ring and push it back into place and put back the 3 screws holding it. Make sure not to over tighten them as they’re held on to aluminum valve body. Be careful around the filter as there are electronic valves / wires around them.





Step 6 – Check for any cracks or cuts in the oil pan gasket, if none put back the cleaned pan using 8 -10mm bolts. Tighten the bolts in cross pattern. Clean any oil drips around the pan or GB post installation of the Pan.



Step 7 – Fill in 3.5 liters of AT oil through the filler plug (24mm bolt). Put back the filler bolt. Hand tighten the bolt for now.
(Make sure Pan drain plug and leveler plug is tightened before filling in Oil)


Had missed to take a pic of the filler plug, the one above is from internet.









Step 8 – Here we 2 people to perform this step.
Since this car doesn’t come with a separate AT oil cooler, it is embedded into the radiator itself.
Move to the front section of the car, at the bottom of the radiator there are 3/4th inch pipes, remove the pipe towards passenger side frame. (2 pipes – 1 pipe brings in the oil and the other exits, we are removing the exit pipe from the radiator so that we flush the oil though the valve body, torque convertor, radiator (AT Cooler) ).
Insert an extension pipe into the radiator outlet and ask the other person to start the car, within 30-40 seconds you could notice slight bubbling in the oil outlet, that means we are are running out of oil in the pan, turn off the engine. Fill in the pan with another 3.5 ltrs of oil as mentioned in step 7.
Repeat the same, start the engine and this time as the person sitting in the car to move the gear across R N D so it goes through all the gear valves (he needs to be quick, approx. 5 seconds each gear).
The person below the car to keep noticing the color of the oil. As you see fresh oil coming out of the radiator outlet switch off the engine and plug back the hose.
So in this step we have completed the flush step.
Go back to step 7 again, but this time unscrew the leveler plug from the Pan and fill in the remain oil and as you see oil dripping out of the leveler stop filling in and put back the leveler plug.





Step 9 – Start the car slowly move the gear in to R N D for 15 secs in each so that if there are any air gaps it would be cleared. Slowly take it for a test drive and slot into every gear possible.
Once the engine is at operating temperature (approx. 5-6kms drive), get below the car and check for the Oil pan temperature it should range anywhere between 40-46 Deg Celsius (make sure to check at multiple points across the pan for average temperate). Once you average the temperature unscrew the leveler plug oil should drip out in the thin line, wait until the oil stops draining out with a thin streak.
Note : At 40-46 deg C if the oil doesn’t drain from the leveler, which in my case happened, you need to add oil through the filler until you see the oil dripping out of the leveler plug.
Note : If you have access to professional scanning tool, you could use the same to measure the AT oil temperature instead of the IR thermometer which I used.



Step 10 – Tighten the filler bolt (24mm), clean all the hoses, surfaces and check for any leakages.
If there are none, you’re done with the job and you could enjoy smooth & quick shifts.

On a precautionary note I drove the car for a week and checked the oil through the leveler plug and it was fine so no oil top up was required.
I could fill in approx. 7.8 ltrs into the system. I have driven approx 5k post this change and its worth the time and money I spent on this.
I was very lazy to type this one until I saw some members were charged for 2 cans and filling in only one can from TASS. Also they did not do the flush. Hence I taught this would help many.
This procedure is similar for all AT Gearboxes without dipstick

Some more pictures

Bad oil which came out of the system.



Comparison of the Old and Fresh Oil



I dropped off the used oil at Shell Fuel Station so that it goes through proper recycling channel.
Happy to answer any questions.

[audioholic]

Thanks for that detailed process. Someday I would do the same to my Crysta as well. So this serves as a good reference.

[ike]

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Did you notice any change/improvement in the transmission behaviour post the flush?

[Jaggu]

Excellent informative post, thanks for sharing!

This is one issue I have faced with almost all manufacturers that sell AT boxes in India. They will never accept the fact that "filled for life" does not mean unlimited Kms or Years. Some of the vehicle user manual will have the years and Kms mentioned deep inside the maintenance pages of owners manual, still dealers just refuse to get the job done. A timely oil change not only improves the working of transmission but multiplies the life, and any repair work of AT boxes are an expensive affair.

[Joli]

Few questions

1) How much oil does the Crysta need?
2) How much old oil came out?
3) Filter replacement, for something like a first-gen Creta, I was told that the entire GB needs to be dismantled and then replaced. I preferred to not remove the filter cos of that.
4) Since the leveler plug was made of plastic, removing it and checking was proving to be cumbersome and hence we checked through the drain plug. The car was kept running and if the Oil comes out in trickles, it means that the filled quantity is okay. If it comes out in gushes, you overfilled.

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by ike

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Did you notice any change/improvement in the transmission behaviour post the flush?

Gear changes are very smooth now, earlier when the car is driven within the city I could notice slightly slower shifts and used to rev higher than it used to be cold or while running on a highway. Vibrations have reduced post 2k rpms.

Originally Posted by Joli

Few questions

1) How much oil does the Crysta need?
A: 8 ltrs
2) How much old oil came out?
A : Approx. 7.3-4 ltrs
3) Filter replacement, for something like a first-gen Creta, I was told that the entire GB needs to be dismantled and then replaced. I preferred to not remove the filter cos of that.
A : Not required, you could see the pictures above and you just need to remove oil pan to access the filter.
4) Since the leveler plug was made of plastic, removing it and checking was proving to be cumbersome and hence we checked through the drain plug. The car was kept running and if the Oil comes out in trickles, it means that the filled quantity is okay. If it comes out in gushes, you overfilled.
A : Drain plug wont give you the required level, it only gives you an idea of the condition of the oil (by its color).The plastic leveler plug isn't flimsy, can be removed to check.

Answered inline to your questions

[Sen]

Just to ask since we're on the topic, does this apply to manual gearboxes as well? My gearbox has been feeling about more notchy lately 50k kms in, and I was considering getting it changed at a competent third party (my Vento is close to 4 years old now)

[VellVector]

Originally Posted by Sen

Just to ask since we're on the topic, does this apply to manual gearboxes as well? My gearbox has been feeling about more notchy lately 50k kms in, and I was considering getting it changed at a competent third party (my Vento is close to 4 years old now)

IIRC Volkswagen does not specify an interval for oil change on their manual transmissions. However an oil change at 5 years / 1L Km would be advisable. It should be a far more straightforward change than an AT box.

[varun560061]

Originally Posted by Sen

Just to ask since we're on the topic, does this apply to manual gearboxes as well? My gearbox has been feeling about more notchy lately 50k kms in, and I was considering getting it changed at a competent third party (my Vento is close to 4 years old now)

I recommend replacing the oil, as it has been 5 years and the bad traffic pattern here is tough on the car’s gearbox.

[DrZhivago]

Thank you for this. I have been meaning to ask the SC folks about doing this on the Fortuner which crossed 1.5.lakh kms and also need to enquire about a Corolla CVT oil change. I am sure they will say it's sealed for life but I hope to coax them into doing this properly. God Speed

[condor]

Originally Posted by Sen

.. does this apply to manual gearboxes as well? My gearbox has been feeling about more notchy lately 50k kms ..)

Actually, the maintenance schedule for manual gear-box vehicles does specify the replacement schedule (distance covered or time). Do check your owner's manual.

Like Varun560061 said, usage in city traffic accelerates the replacement, and helps to do it earlier than what is mentioned in the maintenance schedule.

[g_sanjib]

Originally Posted by varun560061

I had the similar experience and after requesting a lot they agreed to replace the oil but not to flush and replace the filter.

Simply a brilliant post! I just recently got the AT fluid changed on my Crysta through Toyota ASS and could now understand that this is indeed a very complicated procedure, and I am sure that the folks at the ASS do not have the complete experience or knowledge to do it correctly. Thanks for sharing!

[PB65]

It's their standard SEALED FOR LIFE RANT. I have a good friend working in Toyota Thailand, and he told me that by the term LIFE, they mean the gearbox life that's about 60k-70k miles. In kilometres it comes out to be around 1-1.2 lakh Km.

What he also told me was that if the vehicle has seen highway usage primarily, you can easily clock about 1.8-2 lakh kms. But if the vehicle has seen a lot of traffic usage, as well as dusty conditions, 1-1.2 lakh km is the mark.

Oh, he did confirm that it should be a standard practice across all types and makes of automatic transmissions. Remember, prevention is better than cure.

[condor]

Originally Posted by PB65

.. he told me that by the term LIFE, they mean the gearbox life that's about 60k-70k miles.

But if the vehicle has seen a lot of traffic usage, as well as dusty conditions, 1-1.2 lakh km is the mark.

Yes, the term "LIFE-TIME" is a very mis-used term. TC AT boxes often have a "life-time" of 10 years/100k miles (160k KM) - but this details is often skipped.

And traffic time is a good way to estimate requirement for oil-change. One more thing that contributes to the health of the AT oil is through the practice of engaging/not engaging Neutral when one has stopped at signals. My wife has used a car with TC Auto, and she always has the car in neutral when at signals. A recent check of the oil condition showed that the oil was still in pretty good condition (running was about 58k +).

[Jeroen]

Thanks for sharing and this detailed write up.

Interesting way to flush a slush box! A couple of additional thoughts/comments.
Be very careful of running the pump dry. It will damage easily. Unlikely to show immediately but over time it might start giving problems.

I always replace the gasket of the sump too. If it starts leaking, tightening won’t help and you have to drain the oil again.
If the filler and drain plug come with a metal/copper sealing ring that should be replaced too, or annealed.

I would suggest to replace the filter twice. So after you finished the flushing replace the filter again. (That’s when you replace the gasket too).

The trickiest thing when adding new oil into the box is that it might dislodge some old settled debris and sediment. That will hopefully get caught in the filter, but is best removed asap. The longer you wait with the flush, the more likely this will occur. Although modern AT fluids are a lot better in this respect than those we used say 10 years ago.

It’s why professional autobox flushing is done with an external machine, special cleaning fluids and an several external filters. Your method is probably the next best approach.

Mind you, there are manufacturers out there that simply recommended replacing the fluid and filter now and then, just drain and replace. E.g. my Jeep springs to mind.

Jeroen