[DCEite]

Does the AMT hydraulic oil change improve the "jerkiness" or non-linearity (or in better words, jerky behaviour during slow speeds) ?

I have been experiencing what can be described as the car is struggling to get fuel and there are subtle "pauses" during the initial part of accelaration on my 2017 Tigor AMT.

Can the AMT hydraulic oil be the culprit or should I look into something else?

[Massivesiege]

Originally Posted by DCEite

Does the AMT hydraulic oil change improve the "jerkiness" or non-linearity (or in better words, jerky behaviour during slow speeds) ?

I have been experiencing what can be described as the car is struggling to get fuel and there are subtle "pauses" during the initial part of accelaration on my 2017 Tigor AMT.

Can the AMT hydraulic oil be the culprit or should I look into something else?

I have changed the transaxle oil of my 2017 Tata Tiago xza AMT with 25k km, which is now 6 years old. The owner's manual says the Transaxle oil is due every 75k km or 5 years whichever is earlier, I noticed the drain plug magnet had some metal filing/shrapnel attached with what looked like mild sludge/grime buildup,the fluid was definitely dark and sludgy looking, after changing out the fluid for fresh 2 liters of Shell Spirax 80w-90 gl4,manual calls for 1.8 liters, I let it drip out from the fill bolt for a few minutes, the difference is fairly noticeable the shifts are way less jerky and much more smooth.

The harsh surges and flared shift, which prompted me to look closer into this has not happened anymore, considering the condition of the fluid that came out of the transaxle I am convinced this was causing the flared and abnormal jerky shifts

I still haven't done the AMT fluid replacement owing to the need to source it from Tata directly and it is definitely on this list considering how bad the transaxle oil looked

[lemedico]

Originally Posted by Massivesiege

I have changed the transaxle oil of my 2017 Tata Tiago xza AMT with 25k km, which is now 6 years old. The owner's manual says the Transaxle oil is due every 75k km or 5 years whichever is earlier, I noticed the drain plug magnet had some metal filing/shrapnel attached with what looked like mild sludge/grime buildup,the fluid was definitely dark and sludgy looking, after changing out the fluid for fresh 2 liters of Shell Spirax 80w-90 gl4,manual calls for 1.8 liters, I let it drip out from the fill bolt for a few minutes, the difference is fairly noticeable the shifts are way less jerky and much more smooth.

The harsh surges and flared shift, which prompted me to look closer into this has not happened anymore, considering the condition of the fluid that came out of the transaxle I am convinced this was causing the flared and abnormal jerky shifts

I still haven't done the AMT fluid replacement owing to the need to source it from Tata directly and it is definitely on this list considering how bad the transaxle oil looked

My drain nut had the same emery like paste. To think some companies call it lifetime fluid! What a crap notion. All fluids degrade and all components shed metallic bits. Even the blood in our veins doesn't last a lifetime and changes over a few weeks!

I used castrol transmax 80w-90.

[lemedico]

Originally Posted by DCEite

Does the AMT hydraulic oil change improve the "jerkiness" or non-linearity (or in better words, jerky behaviour during slow speeds) ?

I have been experiencing what can be described as the car is struggling to get fuel and there are subtle "pauses" during the initial part of accelaration on my 2017 Tigor AMT.

Can the AMT hydraulic oil be the culprit or should I look into something else?

Jerky drives are multifactorial. The AMT oil is one, gear oil another.
The other culprits are a gunky throttle body, burnt out spark plugs and a choked engine air and fuel filters. Have everything serviced one by one. You'll be surprised how much crud each of these holds.

[lemedico]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

It will for sure. In fact I have been contemplating this fluid replacement since a month on the Ignis. With your thread, I have got the final nudge. I could easily see that the fluid is all black inside that tank.

How much of the fluid did actually get filled in the tank during replacement? All of it? Or you have some left? I'm not able to find any clear mention of the AMT Actuator fluid tank capacity / recommended fill volume (like it is usually mentioned for engine oil for example).
Maruti sells about 550ml of (I suspect) the same 75W oil, made by same - Petronas - with Ecstar stickering, for a price MORE than that of Tata's for 1 Liter . Talk of abusing market monopoly.
Maruti AMT Actuator Fluid

But if you look at the image of the owner manual / fluid specifications that you have included in the 1st post - there is a clear instruction below the table - to check & topup the AMT actuator fluid at every service. So I think its well addressed. If ASCs are not doing it - they are still learning, and losing out on easy pickings to fleece money from customers!


Thanks for sharing this thread - I look forward to my own DIY in coming days for this. Do post about your experience in shifts since the change was done.
Love following your DIYs. Rating the thread 5 stars.

Thanks for your kind words! Your threads inspire me too.

I got a 1L can of oil, and 400ml was swapped. I have 600ml remaining which will be used for a second swap tomorrow. I am not aware of the total capacity which could be filled in am AMT Kit, but as per my experience and that video from Pakistan, 400-500ml is definite.

My golden rule is to avoid the ASC as much as possible. It's sad our mechanics and service "advisors" over here are actually very poorly intelligent and ill-informed in their domain. It's a right contrast to the blokes who deal with such jobs back in the UK. Mostly Edd China's clones!
Therefore, DIY is the way to go. This also helps me command a serious premium when I sell my car off. The doctor tag, DIYer and a meticulous electronic documentation of all costs and work done really helps me get more than expected rates for each car sold off

[lemedico]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Good job. A few thoughts. The main wear is of course in the master and slave cilinder. That is where you will find the deposits, crud and so on. There is no real circulation through either.

You might want to check a factory workshop manual, but the best way to do this is flush out the system. There should be some sort of bleed valve on or near the slave cilinder. You should still extract the old fluid as you did, but then push some of it through the system by pressuring the system and opening the bleed valve. Very similar to flushing and bleeding brake fluid.


Jeroen

I don't know if you're versed with Hindi, but do you suppose he did a good job?

https://youtu.be/4t9esLkSS44?si=vsQQMIXCdHWGY_n1

[Massivesiege]

Originally Posted by lemedico

I don't know if you're versed with Hindi, but do you suppose he did a good job?

https://Youtu.be/4t9esLkSS44?si=vsQQMIXCdHWGY_n1

I don't think anyone can comment on the work he did, unless they have the service manual and hence know exactly how the manufacturer requires this to be done

I have seen the Tiago FSM(factory service manual) both book 1 and 2 and it doesn't have any service information on the Tiago AMT, the second book which is primarily for the circuit only has the AMT wiring diagram and nothing more, I don't know if the Suzuki Service manual includes AMT service information, perhaps someone in this forum, with access to it can shed more information

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by lemedico

I don't know if you're versed with Hindi, but do you suppose he did a good job? ]

Sorry, my Hindi is a bit rusty these days. If anything he did a very thorough job of cleaning everything prior to installation. Which is really important when working on these sort of components.

Jeroen

[lemedico]

Originally Posted by lemedico

Thanks for your kind words! Your threads inspire me too.

I got a 1L can of oil, and 400ml was swapped. I have 600ml remaining which will be used for a second swap tomorrow. I am not aware of the total capacity which could be filled in am AMT Kit, but as per my experience and that video from Pakistan, 400-500ml is definite.

My golden rule is to avoid the ASC as much as possible. It's sad our mechanics and service "advisors" over here are actually very poorly intelligent and ill-informed in their domain. It's a right contrast to the blokes who deal with such jobs back in the UK. Mostly Edd China's clones!
Therefore, DIY is the way to go. This also helps me command a serious premium when I sell my car off. The doctor tag, DIYer and a meticulous electronic documentation of all costs and work done really helps me get more than expected rates for each car sold off

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Sorry, my Hindi is a bit rusty these days. If anything he did a very thorough job of cleaning everything prior to installation. Which is really important when working on these sort of components.

Jeroen

As promised, I did a second oil change a week later. This system keeps on giving (CRUD and GUNK)!

The oil that came out is surprisingly and noticeably dirty. I would like to believe the system has been properly flushed now, without doing it the elaborate (but thorough) way by disassembling and cleaning as Jeroen recommended.

have a look at these fresh photos to compare