[Reinhard]

DIY - Installing an Under-Seat SubWoofer in Tata Nexon XZ+

Background -
I've always had a subwoofer in my car. Had it in the Vista since 2011. The same one was moved to the AltoK10 when I let the Vista go (the detailed project is already documented here - AltoK10 ICE upgrade and subwoofer install DIY Project thread. (DIY - ICE ICE Baby! Audio System Revamp in my Alto K10) Have recently let the AltoK10 go, replaced by an Ignis (more on that some other time). The JBL Amplifier & large subwoofer - are now in the Polo GT TSI, coupled to an Android head unit. Maybe a thread for that project some other time.

The Ignis Zeta (2019) I acquired, came with an Android head unit installed by the 1st owner. Back then, Zeta didn't get the SmartPlay. Which is good, as I like these Androids as well - most importantly because they also have amplifier pre-outs! But I wanted the boot of the Ignis to be usable as the in-laws also will be using the car once in a while to travel to native place, with luggage. And thus - took a chance of trying out an active under-seat subwoofer in the Ignis. The result - was way better than what I was expecting.

And so - I got the one final push I needed. So far I had restrained myself for good 3 years - to save the boot of the Nexon. Did all possible projects on this car (all documented in DIY subforum) but didn't install a subwoofer so far. (The inventory of all the DIY threads can be found here in the ownership thread - Ironhide - Nexon Ownership & DIY Threads. (Story of Ironhide - My Tata Nexon XZ+ Diesel)Not anymore. The under-seat install in Ignis was a good POC. The little unit is very good & hence - here is finally the project in the Nexon, to get those missing bass filled well into the cabin.

To be honest, there is no count to how many threads and posts we have of excellent DIY implementations of adding subwoofers / multi-channel amplifiers and high end audio setups in cars. But then I realized there seem to be none or not many of them, for one of the highest selling hatchbacks of the country, the Tata Nexon. So, thought of making one as I work on the project.

The project should be useful reference for Nexon (and other Tata cars) XM onwards, which get stock ICE (Harman) unit. In case your car has an Android - most of the things are easier since you have pre-outs in place. In this thread - we'll once again do an install with 0 wire cuts. Not even a single splice or T-tap in fact! The key point to cover here will be sourcing the audio signal & amplifier signal from existing harness of the Harman ICE silver-box in a way as clean as possible. So let's dive in!




Lets break-down the thread into sections -

1. Product overview
   
2. Opening the car up
   
3. The wiring & test
   
4. Putting it all back together
   
5. Closing Comments

[Reinhard]

Product Overview

We'll have a look at the general list of products used for this project & specifically look at some details of the 2 key products to be installed. Have provided links for some of the key items.

Products & Tools -

• Under-seat subwoofer - I used Zoook MonsterX1 8" Zoook Monster X1 active subwoofer
• Audio High-Low signal converter with RCA out - Audio High-Low converter with RCA Out
• High quality copper wiring
  I used -
  • Polycab fire proof 2.5sq mm copper for power from battery to amplifier
  • Polycab fire proof 1sq mm copper for ground, amplifier power signal from HU
• In-Line fuse - I bought for INR 50 from spares store, but for reference - Inline Fuse
• 15 or 20 Amp blade fuse (if not included in the fuse holder).
• 8 to 10 ft shielded stereo RCA cable - Stereo RCA cable
• Large and small zip ties in plenty numbers to keep things organized and safe
• Trim remover tools (its a good to have).
• Standard spanner set.
• Standard screw driver set - with Philips and flat heads.
• Silicone or similar sealant in a very small quantity.
• Conduits/Wire looms for keeping wires safe - 1/2 Inch dia wire loom
• Lug connectors for battery terminal & grounding.
• Wire nipper, stripper.
• Crimping tool (its a good to have).
• A good portable LED light source. Its very handy when working under a dashboard or car seat. Very dark places these!
• 3x household match-sticks. Yes .

Now - there are readily available "subwoofer wiring kits" with accessory stores / Amazon etc, that include a visibly thick power wire, RCA cables and an inline fuse. But then - somehow I don't trust these Chinese wiring kits over guaranteed good quality copper cores and fire-proof shields of our good trustworthy Polycab. Personal choice, the thick outer shields of those kits have good reason too - so you may want to use those kits ready-made, rather than fiddling around like me.

Coup de grace -

1. Zoook MotoX1 8" powered subwoofer
   
   
   
   
   • One of the cheaper available options out there on Amazon.in, that doesn't have a really off-putting Chinese name.
   • The company apparently is French. Doesn't matter, I'm assuming it to be Chinese through and through.
   • Its surprisingly heavy for its size and appearance.
   • Fully aluminium body. So in case you turn it on, bass is up and you have kept it tilted or on improper support - it makes funny metallic resonating sounds some-times.
   • Safety grill over the speaker is metallic and will do well in keeping the thing safe from feet of the rear passenger.
   • It has 3 electrical connectors with screws for - +12V, GND & remote power up signal.
   • Usual stereo RCA input is what we'll use. It also has another kind of stereo input connector. I have not used it. The connector pigtail for this input is also included in the package by the way.
   • There is a pretty ubiquitous type remote bass controller rotary knob included. The provided wire for it is very long, and you can place the knob literally anywhere in the car as per your convenience. Its a PnP jack-socket connection. No tools required.
   • It has a 180degree shift button as well, to adjust the output based on where you place the woofer.
   • Costed me around 9K INR from Amazon.in.
2. Generic signal high-low - RCA converter
   
   
   
   
   • Picked it up from a myriad of similar / identical options available on Amazon.in. All pretty much from our unfriendly neighbour.
   • Has dual channel gain-controller screws as well. I see very little use of them to be honest. Have kept the gain to "full" simply for symmetry and to avoid any mismatching inputs to the amplifier.
   • Kit includes a pigtail, that has open ended wires to be used for LEFT+, LEFT-, RIGHT+, RIGHT-, +12V input (to power the device itself), GND, 12V REMOTE signal (to amplifier, to power it up).
   • And of course - it has a stereo RCA female output pair, into which we'll connect our RCA cable, towards the amplifier.
   • I thought of using this one, to avoid having to open up one end of stereo RCA wires, and splicing them into the head unit wiring. That gets really messy. This box makes it cleaner if nothing else and brings in a bit of modularity should you need to change the stereo wires for some reason afterwards. I'm getting lazy!
   • Refer to the above image in a later wiring step - to know which wire goes where in the Harman HU's connectors.

[Reinhard]

Opening The Car Up

In this section, we'll look at the steps to safely remove body panels, glove-box etc, to reach the heart of the Harman ICE unit. The so called "Silver Box". (The name is so lame!)

Start working on the Nexon's interiors and the first thing you notice, is how far ahead TaMo has come, in general design & putting things together. Its a pleasant surprise to see how intricately things are designed. The presence of high quality insulation, damping materials in most places, very strong and long lasting clips, perfectly interlocking parts. First thought I had was - "These guys have pulled apart a VW Polo, and studied how VW has done things. Then copied!". Not bad! Having worked in similar areas of my Polo just a couple of months ago - it was glaringly visible & similarities were quite in-my-face.

1. So, first thing to do, is to remove the side corner panel of the dashboard, that is generally hidden behind the closed door panel. Pry open gently from the areas marked with arrows in the image below.
   
   
   
   
2. This will expose these 3 screws (marked by arrows). Undo them. Note that the SAME screw spec is used in absolutely all the screws that we'll be working on. So - just keeping count is enough. No need to note which one goes where. Phew !.
   
   
   
   
3. Then we have to take the silver dash garnish out completely, pull slightly outward from the side edge to release the small latches there. Then, using standard trim removal tool (or a flat screwdriver covered with something soft - take out the panel slowly outwards from door side, towards the steering wheel. It will come out eventually, exposing the screws that hold the glove-box in place, and also the start-stop button wiring.
   
   
   
   
4. Safely unlatch the connector for the start-stop button, and keep the garnish panel safely aside. It will be needed once more during the project for testing & then directly at the end when you complete everything.
   
   
   
   
5. Note that the glove-box door release latch - is inside this silver panel. So once you remove it - the glove-box lid, will stay open. I used a zip tie to keep it back in closed position afterwards.
6. Inside the open glove-box, you'll see a single bolt in the back wall. Use a small spanner to take it out. Its tricky since the room available to turn the spanner is quite less.
   
   
   
   
7. Now - you have to find 4 screws under the glove-box by peeking, touching - whatever works for you! I have tried to post pictures of them here. They are at the lower-most edge of the box basically. You can easily find them by simply running your hand from edge to edge under the glove-box. Getting the screwdriver to fit into them at the right angle, is the only tough bit till you get a hang of it. I have done this twice now - Polo & Nexon have it identical!
   
   
   
   
   
   
8. Unscrew the 4 screws you'll see holding the glovebox on the top edge (behind the silver panel we just removed.)
   
   
   
   
9. Now your glove-box is free. Slowly pull it forward. If yours is XZ+ - you'll have to disconnect the AC cooling duct at the rear, the 2 pin connectors on car door side edge, for the glove-box door switch (this triggers the box light) And the connector for the T10 bulb that illuminates the glovebox (this connector is on top of the glovebox, near the deeper edge.
   
   
   
   
   
   
10. Once all these connections are safely removed - keep the glove-box safely aside. This is how the final situation will be.
    
    
    
    
    
    
11. Remove the LHS corner & floor side trim (black) to eventually route wiring under the passenger seat. I've installed the subwoofer under the passenger seat since it is generally vacant. If your co-driver doesn't like the beats directly under - you may want to install this under the driver's seat.
    
    
    
    
12. And this is it. The silver-box, from which we want to take out the wiring. Also marked by 4 red arrows - are the points below which are 4 screws of the glove-box, that you have to work on, without much visual input in an earlier step.
    
    
    
    
13. Now - you'll see the now pretty globally standard connector harness sticking into the silver-box. The Blue-Yellow-Green one, is usually for steering mounted controls inputs etc. The Brown one - is for speaker wiring & the Grey one is for power, and other car signals. Take out the grey & brown ones using the latches on left side. These are the 2 that we will be working on.
14. And thats it - we are done pulling things apart. Over to connections now.

[Reinhard]

The Wiring & Test

Now with the panels opened up, and the head-unit accessible - we'll first take RCA outputs from the front speaker connector, then do a quick test of the wiring setup, to see the subwoofer works. Afterwards we can put things back together properly. The test with temporary wiring is usually important. Its always painful if you install everything fully, only to learn something isn't working. Opening everything up again, gives near suicidal thoughts.

In this section - we'll also find the right source wiring for power, remote signal & speaker inputs - without a single splice/cut. Thats really the key purpose of this thread. Rest is routine for most of you. Usually accessory installers simply splice the subwoofer input wires from the speaker wires that run into the car's front doors. I simply HATE removing any door panels or splicing into wires. So - this little trick that we'll see shortly. Nothing too spectacular. Just basics.

1. Prepare the power wires of the amplifier/subwoofer as shown in the image (or whichever way you like really). On this particular one - its GND-REMOTE-12VIn top to bottom.
   
   
   
   
2. In the brown connector - there are 2 rows of 4 pins each (8 pins & wires total). The outer 2 - are rear left and right and the center 2 are front left & right. Which is left, which is right - I didn't try to find as its insignificant for this project. Front/Rear is enough. Refer to the image below to easily identify which side of pins is "+" and which is "GND". We usually pick wires from the front speaker signals, because mostly we'll have the fade balance either centered or front biased. If you tend to keep it rear biased - pull wires from the rear speakers (i.e. the 2 outer sets of wires).
   
   
   
   
3. In the grey connector - we are interested in the red & brown wire pair on the edge. Red wire is +12V, linked to IGN/ACC position. Brown is GND. We'll use these 2, to power our signal converter box. Basically - that box will be powered up, only when car is in IGN mode - and it will power the AMP up, only then. Otherwise we are looking at a dead battery/converter box very soon!
4. And now - this is where the good-ol' matchsticks come into play! Un-pinning & rewiring the connectors in such a small margin, is near impossible. And splicing is what I generally don't do. So? Strip the converter box's wires as usual, fold the copper around the shield, and slide them tightly into the crevasse besides each wire of interest (speaker FR/FL & red, brown). Refer to the image in the earlier section, to know which wire from the converter box, does what.
5. Once you slide / push those wires in - they are already a snug fit. But - we want it to be permanent. How? Push in half a match-stick (without the flammable head) into the same socket back. Et viola! Its a firm fit. Push back both the connectors into their sockets.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
6. After the testing is complete - take the matchstick out, dip it in silicone sealant, and push it back. It will stay stuck in, for eternity. Additionally, we'll use zip ties to secure wires into each other, to further ensure they are never going to come out. Ever. You'll get an idea in the pictures below.
   
7. Now - run a high quality copper wire from the car battery's +12V terminal, via an inline fuse, through the passenger side firewall grommet, into passenger footwell. Once everything is completed - as a last step - we'll seal that small puncture hole, with silicone sealant for weather proofing and air insulation.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
8. Connect the 12V wire to 12V input of the amplifier, connect a GND wire from AMP, to a grounding point in the car. I have used a bolt behind the glove-box for it. Refer to the image below. And - connect another wire from the Green wire of the converter box, to the REMOTE connector of the amplifier.
   
   
   
   
9. Connect the stereo RCA wire pins to the converter box & to the stereo input of the amplifier/sub-woofer.
   
10. Now - connect the start-stop button connector into the silver-garnish panel & switch. Take your God's name, and push the start button for IGN/ACC. If the power LED on your amplifier comes up - half the job is done well! Now - you can connect to your usual music source & test the output. You can use this very moment to even fiddle around & tune your amplifier/sub-woofer outputs. Upto you.
    
    
    

Since all works - now we just have to route the wires safely & put things back together as they were!

[Reinhard]

Putting It All Back Together

So now, the tests are successful. Its time to carefully route the wires, secure them for a long term & put all the removed bits back together.

1. Measure the 12V, Remote signal, Ground wires correctly to under the seat, and cut to length from your reel.
2. Add a lug to the ground wire from Amp, and secure it to a body-grounding point/bolt.
3. Secure the RCA converter box using at least 2 zip ties very tightly to a place of your choice. I have secured it above the glove-box. Do pay attention to its position, angle & firmness. Because you do NOT want it to eventually get loose and start rattling with the glove-box or anything else.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Route all the wires safely, smartly via existing harnesses, ducts etc, towards the left (or right!) side of the cabin. Be generous with zip ties. More the use - the merrier. Trust me. Nowhere should the wiring be hanging loose. Its an aesthetic as well as safety precaution. Be patient.
   
   
   
   
   
   
5. Route the wires under the door-sill inner panels along the existing harnesses - again - use at least 4-5 zip ties correctly spaced here. Keep your new wires straight & tight (but not strained). Nothing loose, nothing hanging around.
   
   
   
   
6. Run the connectors out from under the B pillar inner plastic panel, under into the passenger (or driver!) seat.
   
   
   
   
7. Place the subwoofer under the seat & connect the wiring. As you have seen - I have used bullet connectors - so its a simple plug-in. No efforts needed in awkward position under the seat etc.
   
   
   
   
8. Do one more test that everything works and the sound output is as expected. And then - put the black floor side / corner trim plastics back into place, covering up your crime!
   
   
   
   
9. Put the glove-box back into place. Now here - XZ+ owners - remember - you have to first connect the bulb connector on top, the AC duct on the back & the switch wires on the LHS, before you fully push the glove-box into place. Screw it in on top and under, tighten the inside wall bolt as well.
10. Put the silver garnish plate back into place. Snap in all its clips well. Shouldn't have any misaligned edges / protruding bits.
    
    
    
    
    
    
11. Reinstall all 3 side screws & put the side panel of the dash-board back.
    
    
    
    
12. Now in the engine-bay - cover your newly added wire with proper safe conduits for weather / temperature and rat proofing. Secure it snug along existing harnesses. Secure the fuse also.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
13. Seal the small puncture in the grommet with silicone sealant.
    
    
    
    
14. And we are done. Now just collect all your bits n pieces lying around, tools, trash from all parts that you visited in the car. Its a safety thing also. Something left in the engine bay can have unimaginable consequences when you start driving the car afterwards.

As usual, a big relief that there were no screws, clips etc suddenly left with no place to put them into. Always worried that I might end up optimising the installations and adding spare screws into my inventory .

[Reinhard]

Summary & Closing Comments

Here are my thoughts after about a week of usage -

• The project took me about 5 hours all included. Some of it was down to taking apart the Nexon's dash-board for the very first time. It was learn as you go. Some time was also needed with a multimeter, to find the right pins for 12V signal, front L/R speaker input wires in the HU etc. With these things known - the project I think shouldn't take any more than 3 hours for a regular DIY guy.
• The Subwoofer does absolutely fine for the purpose. Don't expect the performance like a 12" wooden subwoofer / bass tube in the boot. Its a humble 8" unit with alumimium housing. But for its size and specifications - it actually produces surprisingly good bass.
• The subwoofer comes with a remote bass adjustment knob as well. For now - I have not installed it as the tuning I did with the signal converter & the screws on the amplifier, did give me the desired audio output. Its a simple plug-in remote and can be added any time in future as well.
• There is still room left - so a larger unit will fit easily. But - if you want to install a larger one - mostly you'll have to first remove the seat and work in the area. This one just about managed to sneak under the seat as is from the front gap.
• Is it worth it? Definitely yes. The missing lows and some mids are added well into the cabin. This little thing is complementing the stock 4+4 speaker setup very well. Of course I'd love to have an enclosure in the boot. But then - after a decade with a hatchback without much boot left - now I want to be able to pack 2 bags with the kid along, and travel comfortably. This subwoofer is a very good compromise.
• I have the same subwoofer installed in the Ignis as well, hooked up to a usual Android head-unit. It performs very well in that car as well.
• As you'll have noticed in the pictures, everywhere possible - I have used insulated bullet-connectors. No wire twists / no tapes. No permanent connectors or solders. This way - we have a fair amount of modularity in the implementation. Any malfunctioning parts of the chain, can be easily removed and replaced. And should the need arise - replacing / upgrading the under-seat woofer itself, will be a 10 minute PnP swap.
• Also note, while I have used an under-seat subwoofer - the process is identical for a full blown enclosure installation as well. Just that you'll need 1 extra pair of RCA connectors / open ended speaker wires - to run the wires from the amplifier (under pax seat), back into the boot, to the sub-woofer. Simple. Basics remain the same and can be referred.

So there it is. Hope you find it useful. Happy to help as always in case anyone needs tips.

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[vigsom]

Well executed DIY! I particularly loved your attention to detail around small things like points 2, 3, 4, 6.

Originally Posted by Reinhard

1. Measure the 12V, Remote signal, Ground wires correctly to under the seat, and cut to length from your reel.
2. Secure the RCA converter box using at least 2 zip ties very tightly to a place of your choice.
3. Route all the wires safely, smartly via existing harnesses
4. As you have seen - I have used bullet connectors - so its a simple plug-in.
5. Now in the engine-bay - cover your newly added wire with proper safe conduits
6. Seal the small puncture in the grommet with silicone sealant
7. just collect all your bits n pieces lying around

For true blue SUVs which have a proper rubber grommet sealed wiring harness at the firewall, making a puncture should be done carefully to prevent inadvertent shaving of one of the existing cables (the image here is from my car post a rat attack in 2017. Note the rubber "sealed" wiring harness at the firewall).

[sagsaw]

Very useful post for those looking for DIY subwoofer.

Any recording with and without sub woofer for better understanding of how much difference it makes?


https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...dolby.dolby234

This is a free app from Dolby and produces good quality recordings.

[ryzen7@5800u]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

DIY - Installing an Under-Seat SubWoofer in Tata Nexon XZ+

Interesting DIY, and 5 stars for the perfect execution! With the numerous pictures and detailed explanations, I feel confident enough to attempt something similar on my own.
I'm curious, how does this positioning of the sub to one side impact the sound? Would it be better to place two subs, one under each seat?
Do you feel any excess vibrations in the passenger seat - or was some damping done? I'm especially curious, as my current in car entertainment (Nexon XE) consists of a BT speaker in the glovebox, and I've noticed that some notes from AR Rahman basslines seem to hit a resonant frequency of the plastic of the dash and seat mounts, causing a very uncomfortable buzzing.
In the boot, I've noticed two niches - one on each side - that seem perfect for a subwoofer install - is it feasible?

[Transmission]

Thanks for the very detailed post!

Just one question in my head - how is the subwoofer secured to the car?
The amazon product and review images suggest that there are no hooks/attachment points available in the body of the device to help hold it securely in place (over our pothole ridden roads)

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by vigsom

Well executed DIY! I particularly loved your attention to detail around small things like points 2, 3, 4, 6.
For true blue SUVs which have a proper rubber grommet sealed wiring harness at the firewall, making a puncture should be done carefully to prevent inadvertent shaving of one of the existing cables

Thanks! Glad you liked it. And yes - golden words there, about taking care of the existing harness when puncturing the grommet. As a usual practice, I always make the puncture well away from the center, after checking from inside the cabin, about where the harness has turned after entering the cabin. That much more information before taking that brutal step of puncturing a sealing grommet.

Interesting thing I noted also - the grommet in the Nexon, seemed to be dual layer, with some soft sealant paste filled in it. Which meant - when I inserted the new wire in, basically the new hole was auto-sealed anyway from the inside.

Originally Posted by sagsaw

Very useful post for those looking for DIY subwoofer.
Any recording with and without sub woofer for better understanding of how much difference it makes?

Thanks. Well - now if I have to record this difference in the Nexon- I'll have to disconnect the woofer / reduce the bass. Maybe I will try that some day and post a video. Or maybe I'll do that in the Ignis, the Android player in the Ignis has a dedicated button to simply switch off the output to the amplifier pre-outs. Of course - the sound will be completely different in these 2 cars. The speakers of Nexon are far better. That said - the video recording in a phone will never give true representation of the audio frequencies generated anyway. Let's see.

Originally Posted by ryzen7@5800u

Interesting DIY, and 5 stars for the perfect execution! With the numerous pictures and detailed explanations, I feel confident enough to attempt something similar on my own.
I'm curious, how does this positioning of the sub to one side impact the sound? Would it be better to place two subs, one under each seat?
Do you feel any excess vibrations in the passenger seat - or was some damping done? I'm especially curious, as my current in car entertainment (Nexon XE) consists of a BT speaker in the glovebox, and I've noticed that some notes from AR Rahman basslines seem to hit a resonant frequency of the plastic of the dash and seat mounts, causing a very uncomfortable buzzing.
In the boot, I've noticed two niches - one on each side - that seem perfect for a subwoofer install - is it feasible?

Thanks!
No - the Nexon seats are sufficiently thick. No extra damping needed at all. There is no excess vibrations for regular music (and I do play heavy beats, no less). Its fine for the passenger too, as I have tested it for a long drive now.

I think 2 units will give an awesome output - but then will also be an overkill of sorts. Pretty costly too. Honestly - I don't think its needed. The one subwoofer on one side - is enough. And no - it does not generate skewed output that you notice to be coming from only one side. It spreads pretty well. No worry.

Yes - I had in fact thought about making a custom enclosure for the niches in the boot to put a subwoofer there. But they are a bit too small and angular. The enclosure would be small too, thereby impacting the output. Securing them in-place would also be tricky. So I dropped the plan. There are some folks who have made such enclosures in other cars like Seltos/Creta I think.

Originally Posted by Transmission

Thanks for the very detailed post!
Just one question in my head - how is the subwoofer secured to the car?
The amazon product and review images suggest that there are no hooks/attachment points available in the body of the device to help hold it securely in place (over our pothole ridden roads)

Thanks, glad you liked it.

No its not "secured" in any way. Generally no sub-woofers (even the boxes in boot) is secured to the car-body. Their own weight ensures they don't move around, unless you literally fly the car, or end up in a collision. This one is no exception. Its quite heavy and doesn't move even slightly even under fast driving on rough roads. Have tested. So don't worry.
Also - it fits snug under the seat, which has horizontal frame members on front as well as back generally, and seat on top. So - there is no way its going to pop-out from anywhere easily. I wouldn't worry about it much.

[sagsaw]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Thanks. Well - now if I have to record this difference in the Nexon- I'll have to disconnect the woofer / reduce the bass. Maybe I will try that some day and post a video. Or maybe I'll do that in the Ignis, the Android player in the Ignis has a dedicated button to simply switch off the output to the amplifier pre-outs. Of course - the sound will be completely different in these 2 cars. The speakers of Nexon are far better. That said - the video recording in a phone will never give true representation of the audio frequencies generated anyway. Let's see.

Ok, but I can tell you that the free recording app from Dolby really produces great results from ordinary smartphone as it applies its own processing.

App name is Dolby on

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...34&hl=en&gl=US

[AutoNoob]

That's really good DIY.

I wanted to do same in my vehicle, but couldn't find time for the install. Moreover, doors were to be damped. So, took services of a professional installer.

Originally Posted by Reinhard

The Wiring & Test

I suggest that EMI/RF shielding be added to the wiring, may be in future installs. It's better to shield power and signal cables separately. As per my installer, it prevents pick-up of any electrical disturbance.





Image Source

[Sach_511]

Wow what a clean DYI, if I agree to pay million bucks to my local shop then also, he will not agree to do this clean installation, no idea why they are always in hurry and do things in most Juggad way!!