[Cresterk]

Greetings, this is my first thread on Teambhp! I created it because I could find a lot of info on putting LEDs inside normal halogen reflector housings, but barely anything about projector housings made for halogens. Searching for "LED projector upgrade" on google gives you anything from video projectors to aftermarket projector kits which come with an LED already attached to it. My car came with projector headlamps from the factory but with halogen bulbs used. Most youtubers seemed to be modifying the base/mid model which had reflector headlamps.

So I did some research, combed through foreign articles and videos and sifted some meaningful info from the misleading, written only to sell you something or hit a word limit on a blogpost / create a video long enough to get money on youtube ads. I finally ended up with a satisfactory upgrade a year ago. I will share everything I learnt here.


So starting with some basics:

The car:

My 2016 Hyundai i20 asta (o)

It has projector headlamps with a halogen bulb and a shutter that moves for high beam or low beam. The single bulb acts as both high beam and low beam. Also included on either side are halogen cornering lamps that turn on when the steering is turned more than a specified angle. They are a boon when taking corners on unfamiliar Indian roads with no streetlamps, where the area right outside your main headlamps' field of vision might hide a rock, a cliff or a sleeping cow. The main headlamps too worked decently but I was always itching for an upgrade, both in terms of colour and light output. The lights felt decent when there were no other cars around but feeble and lacking in traffic, especially when there was a vehicle coming head on. Most people also didn't respect you flashing your lights to dip their headlamps.

The options available in the market:

1. More powerful yellow halogens

Good performance and cheapest option. A high end halogen bulb (osram nightbreaker laser / philips rallyvision) will provide better light output than your stock bulbs. However, it will also consume more power and your wiring might not support it.

2. White halogens

Cheap but worst performance. These lights are imitation bulbs for a xenon/led look. They are just halogen bulbs with a filter to block out lower colour temperature wavelenghts. Naturally this leads to less light output, even worse than your stock bulbs, despite whatever the cover might claim. (osram cool blue intense / philips bluevision)

3. HID kit retrofit

Most powerful and expensive option with a lot of drawbacks. HIDs have their own headaches they come with including modifications to the car, warm up times etc. Not really worth it for me since LEDs became available. A warm HID
projector setup would be the best for light output and visibility though, if you go towards the high end. They are meant only for low beam since they would seriously blind opposing traffic.

4. LEDs

The newest and most efficient option available aftermarket. A quality LED setup is hard to weed out from all the cheap options masquerading as the latest and best but worth it if you are willing to put in the time to sort through them. They turn on instantaneously which means it would also be suitable for highbeam flashing. They offer 90% of the HID at less than 50% the price.


All of them were available in plenty of sizes, suitable for all sorts of housings. My car needed HB3 / 9005. Find out what type your car requires by looking at the manual as well as the stock bulb itself.

Note:

A projector headlamp assembly built for halogen bulbs is different internally than a projector made for HID or LED. Good quality/high end LEDs are made with a thin as possible blade design and a chip that resembles a halogen bulb's filament size as much as possible. This will give it a similar light pattern to a halogen which would hit the mirror and lens assembly properly. This is very important to get actual usable light that doesn't just get scattered everywhere.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPcE-fWHmww

Here is a useful video that talks about the various types and designs of LEDs available on the market.

To summarise, stay away from 360 degree leds or fancy 3 sided, 4 sided designs. They are all just gimmicks.

https://youtu.be/X1L_aFGjmSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apskXGkR-MM

Here are 2 videos that compares the various brands of lights as scientifically as possible. Do go through other videos on the channel for more detailed comparisons which will show you just how many "performance" products such as airfilters, oils etc are useful and how many are just snakeoil.

The basics:

1. There are a wide variety of LEDs being sold under different brand names in India in amazon and other markets. Unless they come from established name brands such Philips, they are all identical and made in possibly the same factory. The differences are only cosmetic and the brand is just the name of the importer / drop-shipper. If interested, I will make another thread later on how importing junk from China and repackaging them with whatever claims and wildly different prices became so popular in India.


2. LEDs consume much less power to produce much more light. The "watts" mentioned on these products are not the actual watts consumed by the LED. They claim everything from 72W to 90W to 100W to 120W. Actually even a 30W LED would be ridiculously bright and will burn your eyes out. A proper 10W LED would be as bright as 100W halogen light. Reading the disclaimer on these products show that a 90W advertised product is a set of 2 leds of 45W + 45W. In other words, one of these led headlight will provide the equivalent of 45W (claimed) halogen on one side of the car which means they will be weaker than even the stock 60W headlights. Watts is a meaningless comparison for leds and proper brands like philips will not advertise the watts of their LED headlamps in the title.

More on this here: http://www.ledlightinginfo.com/what-...tts-equivalent

3. A colour temperature of between 5000-6000k is best to get that proper premium car white headlight look. Too high a temperature and it will turn blueish or even purplish , which is worse for visibility and also makes you look like a ricer from the early 2000s.

4. I chose a 6000k bulb to match look of the DRLs but warmer colour temperature LEDs of 3000-4500k are also available and are the best for visibility in foggy conditions due to the refraction of light. Feel free to get them if you drive a lot in hilly areas and performance is critical.

5. Halogen bulbs produce much more heat than LEDs. So your housing and headlight assembly will not be damaged by the heat given off by LEDs. However, your LED controller chip will automatically reduce the brightness as heat increases to prevent damage so proper ventilation is always good but not in a way that lets dust or water enter so don't cut your dust caps. Passively cooled LEDs are generally low power products and are nowhere near as effective as an LED with a proper fan heatsink.

6. If you have a german/luxury car with CANbus, it would also require a CANbus adapter or a CANbus compatible plug and play LED so it can communicate back with the car diagnostics. Or else the car computer will throw an error code as it cannot communicate with the bulb. Note : My car does not have it.

Products I tried :

Finding actual name brand products in supply is hard here due to import taxes. Also most importers take advantage of the lack of stock to inflate prices higher + if you have issues with warranty, they will be rather reluctant. Also many of the "premium" products from Dubai, America etc are chinese bulbs exported there and then imported here by another reseller so it makes no sense to buy them. If budget isnt an issue for you, I would recommend just getting the Philips Ultinon Pro9000 LED in a size that is compatible for your car.


1. Novsight (9005/HB3) N11 LED





First LED I bought. Didn't have much knowledge then so I bought it mainly because it was cheap at 3k and because I saw the 60W claim and thought anything higher would burn out my stock wiring. (Refer to point 2 in the basics section above on why that doesn't matter). Remember, the brand doesn't matter, the name of the actual LED is N11 and that's how the factories identify it . Similar to how there is no actual product difference if you buy a maruti swift from any dealer.

Installation was basically plug and play. I did this a year ago so I don't have any pictures. Remove the dust cover, twist to remove the stock headlamp. Insert LED and twist it into place. Connect the wire to the socket. See if light turns on. If not, reverse the connection.




It was decent in short distances in the dark but it struggled to throw useable light for a longer distance. It was also useless when there was another car approaching from the opposite. In traffic or highways, it was too feeble. I was double checking whether I even had my lights on. So I returned the product and put my stock halogens back in, disappointed. Everyone loved how premium the car looked with the LEDs though so I decided to do all the research mentioned above and find a suitable upgrade.



2. AUTOBAHN LED F5




One of the videos mentioned that the F3 Led was one of the brightest bulb they tested but the heatsink was too small and inadequate for it and it got too hot, leading to it burning away its body coating and later failing. That intrigued me so I did some research on it and realised that it was from a few years ago and that the same factory had released a newer, updated design called the F5 which came with a much better heatsink and had favourable reviews online. Aliexpress was banned so I ended up searching for an F5 led available with local sellers on amazon and found this one for 6.1k. I was expecting the bulbs or fan to fail within a few months or on roadtrips with sustained night driving for hours but it's still going strong.


Installation was smooth. I wasn't sure whether the bigger heatskinks and fan would fit with the stock dust cap but that turned out to be a non-issue.



Make sure to twist it so that the light emitting sides of the LED are aimed towards the top and bottom for optimal light.



Shove the wires into the assembly and close the dust cap tightly.



A long screwdriver through this small hole will let you angle the lights towards the left or the right.


And finally, for the result :

Low beam and High beam





This is definitely what I was looking for! They are pretty bright even with streetlamps and other cars around so I have them angled downwards more than necessary to ensure I don't accidentally dazzle someone coming up a hill or while going up a speedbump.



Just look at the light output!

Flashing your lights actually makes even the most inconsiderate driver hurry to dip his headlights. No more being blinded by oncoming SUV drivers or idiots on those new Activas who drive around everywhere with their brights on. Even slow moving cars hogging the right lane give way when you flick on the highbeams and light up the interior of their car like there is a tubelight in the back seat

They work well in medium rain too but can struggle when there is extremely heavy rainfall. To be fair, that was also the kind of rain where traffic slowed to a crawl and had their hazards on so I doubt halogens could have helped much either. Low beams were mostly fine but switching to high beams refracted the light right back into my eyes which made it seem like there was a solid white wall a few feet in front of the car.




To top it all off, the car looks great too! The colour matches my DRLs perfectly and it put some much needed life into my old ride since long waiting times for new cars mean that I can't upgrade any time soon. Hope people find this post useful. I have plenty of vids while driving in dry and wet conditions with both low and high beam but I haven't figured out how to upload videos here yet.

[Artyom]

Nice Post brother.
I went through a similar ordeal almost a month back where i replaced the stock Halogens in my Creta with Osram 35Watt LEDs.I did not have a happy ending but i wish yours a long lasting one.Your post gave me another ray of hope however I have a few questions and would appreciate your response:-

1. Can you share the Link from where did you purchase this?
2. I am assuming there was no need to cut the cap cover to accommodate the LED assembly.Right?
3.Can you perform a small test for me to check if your setup also exhibits the same behavior as mine which according to an expert means that the LED are not getting enough power.What I am trying to ascertain if this behavior is same across all LED or mine was faulty unit.Ill explain the test at the end .

4.The members on the forum believe the higher the wattage the more heat it will generate and without sufficient ventilation it might lead to the melting/blackening of the reflectors or the LED holder itself. Your thoughts?
5. How long have you been using this setup and whats the warranty offered on this setup?
6.Roughly how many feet is the throw of the light?
7.What is the longest duration(In Hours) have you used them in a stretch and if you faced any issues?


The Test:- Park your vehicle in front of a wall with roughly 4 foot distance between both. Switch on the LED and after a minute observe the following closely:-
1. Slight flicker in the throw on the wall. You need to be very close to the wall to observe it.Since the flicker is very minute you have to be really focused.Its like a shorter version of voltage fluctuation when it occurs at our homes.

In my case there was a faint flicker which was caught by the guy who did the light adjustment on my vehicle.Apparently I returned the Osram LED set as i got suspicious if they were faulty .If yours also exhibits the same behavior then either yours is also faulty(based upon the logic given to me) OR its a expected behavior and nothing to worry about. I am not trying to discourage you instead just trying to look for similarities/difference in your setup and mine.

Here is my post just in case you want to go through the whole story.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/showt...errerid=574755 (Review | Osram LEDriving HL Premium | 6000 Kelvin | Hyundai Creta)

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by Artyom

1. Can you share the Link from where did you purchase this?
2. I am assuming there was no need to cut the cap cover to accommodate the LED assembly.Right?
3.Can you perform a small test for me to check if your setup also exhibits the same behavior as mine which according to an expert means that the LED are not getting enough power.What I am trying to ascertain if this behavior is same across all LED or mine was faulty unit.Ill explain the test at the end .

4.The members on the forum believe the higher the wattage the more heat it will generate and without sufficient ventilation it might lead to the melting/blackening of the reflectors or the LED holder itself. Your thoughts?
5. How long have you been using this setup and whats the warranty offered on this setup?
6.Roughly how many feet is the throw of the light?
7.What is the longest duration(In Hours) have you used them in a stretch and if you faced any issues?


The Test:.

Thank you!

1. I bought it from autobahn on amazon : https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It seems to be out of stock on amazon sadly. It is available on their website https://autobahntechnologies.com/pro...eadlight-bulb/

You can also buy it directly from China on aliexpress : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001282544181.html

Do note that you might face issues with customs or shipping. Might have to use a forwarding address.


2. I did not modify the dust cap in any way. I bought some bigger caps from amazon but it was not fitting as tight due to being cheaply made. So I decided to just risk it with the stock dust caps and it has been fine so far

3. Sure

4. They are correct when it comes to halogens, however :

LEDs consume much less power to produce much more light. The "watts" mentioned on these products are not the actual watts consumed by the LED. They claim everything from 72W to 90W to 100W to 120W. Actually even a 30W LED would be ridiculously bright and will burn your eyes out. A proper 10W LED would be as bright as 100W halogen light. Watts is a meaningless comparison for leds and proper brands like philips will not advertise the watts of their LED headlamps in the title.

https://ledlightinginfo.com/what-is-...tts-equivalent

LEDs consume much less power than Halogen and also produce much less heat comparably so I doubt you could damage the headlight assembly which was built to withstand halogen temperatures. This is assuming that these are modern, good quality LEDs and not factory rejects / defective pieces which are being sold by shady shops instead of being disposed off.

The LED itself will have a shorter life due to lack of proper ventilation + it will throttle itself to be less bright to lower temperature. I haven't seen any noticeable decrease over time as it heats up though. Try to improve ventilation if you can but protecting them from dust and moisture is priority no 1.


5. I have been using this since last december so almost a year now. Warranty offered is 2 years. If it conks out before then, I will get it replaced and update this thread.

6. I am not sure. But it is enough to light up a decent enough range. I am a bit busy due to Onam here in Kerala but I have uploaded an old video of driving in the rain to help you judge it :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5fVpxxhywQ

7. Around 6 hours continuously I think from when I was returning back from a hill station trip at night. 0 issues faced other than being nauseous from all the hair pin turns.


8. The test : I see no issues but I think I understand what you mean. LEDs are not continous, they have a refresh rate so they turn on and off extremely quickly. This is not visible to the naked eye nor is it noticeable and if it is, then that means your LED driver or your chip is about to fail.


My father's landcruiser had a similar problem a while after we replaced the foglamps with LEDs. The stock HID headlamps by themselves were more than good enough so this was purely a cosmetic upgrade to make the foglamps match the colour.


Stock setup

We didn't have much knowledge about this at the time so we just took it to a shop and asked them to match the colour and install it. They used some brand I don't remember but the result was good from an aesthetics POV. Anyway, about a year or two, it started to show a mild flickering on just one side that progressively got worse over the months until the one of the two led chips inside the foglamp died. Now the left hand side foglamp was noticeably dimmer than the right hand side one. Couldn't be bothered to remove the bumper to reinstall the one ones so we just kept them turned off because we never really needed them anyway.



After the upgrade and before one of the foglamps conked off. It looked pretty good with all white lights.

[drsnt]

Originally Posted by Artyom

Nice Post brother.

In my case there was a faint flicker which was caught by the guy who did the light adjustment on my vehicle.Apparently I returned the Osram LED set as i got suspicious if they were faulty .If yours also exhibits the same behavior then either yours is also faulty(based upon the logic given to me) OR its a expected behavior and nothing to worry about. I am not trying to discourage you instead just trying to look for similarities/difference in your setup and mine.

Here is my post just in case you want to go through the whole story.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/showt...errerid=574755 (Review | Osram LEDriving HL Premium | 6000 Kelvin | Hyundai Creta)

Been using Leds for almost 10 years now, Never had an issue like this. Must have been an issue with your Led voltage regulator. I have used Philips, and Chinese make. Presently using a very cheap LED bulb for my Scooty ( https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B08...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) presently unavailable. Got for 1200 rs. Very focused and bright light. Sufficient for city runs.

[RaghavEvoX]

I had done a similar LED upgrade a month back in my 2017 Hyundai Verna.
My stock halogen setup was decent but i was planning a trip from Chennai to Pune and was looking for some better lighting for travelling in the highways.

So I went to my trusted detailing shop and enquired on the LED upgrade.
I didn't have much idea on the brand and the model to be upgraded.
But he gets lot of high-end cars for audio / light / interior upgrades.
So I went with his suggestion.

Philips Ultinon Pro9000 HL (Costed Rs.10500) for the main headlight.
Aazoom AZ1301 (Costed Rs.8000) for the fog light

But I was not really happy with the performance.
It was fine when I saw the brightness from outside the car.
But when driving, especially in the highways, I felt the stock setup with halogen was much better.
And it sucked in the rains. I came from Pune to Chennai a week back and I even wondered if the lights worked.
And its perfectly fine inside the city.
I think it was really not a worthy upgrade for Rs.18,500.







Low Beam


High Beam

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by RaghavEvoX

I had done a similar LED upgrade a month back in my 2017 Hyundai Verna.
My stock halogen setup was decent but i was planning a trip from Chennai to Pune and was looking for some better lighting for travelling in the highways.

So I went to my trusted detailing shop and enquired on the LED upgrade.
I didn't have much idea on the brand and the model to be upgraded.
But he gets lot of high-end cars for audio / light / interior upgrades.
So I went with his suggestion.

Philips Ultinon Pro9000 HL (Costed Rs.10500) for the main headlight.
Aazoom AZ1301 (Costed Rs.8000) for the fog light

Are you sure they are aligned right? That is pretty surprising since most people regard the Philips Ultinon Pro9000 to be one of the best. I certainly wanted one of those but it was priced around 15-17k last year so I couldn't try it. Reflector headlamps should also have a much higher light output than projectors since none of the light is being blocked (but with the downside that the light is more likely to go everywhere and isn't focused right)


https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/

Here is a handy chart that rates a lot of LEDs on both projector and reflectors. I couldn't actually find most of them in our domestic markets though so I didn't link it in the original post.


https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modif...led-bulbs.html (Upgrading to the Ultinon Pro 9000 LED Bulbs)

Here is a post from a fellow teambhp member who used the same bulbs in a polo's reflector headlamps. You might find it useful.

[Artyom]

Originally Posted by RaghavEvoX

I had done a similar LED upgrade a month back in my 2017 Hyundai Verna.
Philips Ultinon Pro9000 HL (Costed Rs.10500) for the main headlight.
Aazoom AZ1301 (Costed Rs.8000) for the fog light

The Philips one you installed is that HB3 9005 or HB4 ?
My understanding is Verna comes with HB3 bulb type as the main headlight bulb so asking.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by Cresterk

Greetings,
To top it all off, the car looks great too! The colour matches my DRLs perfectly and it put some much needed life into my old ride since long waiting times for new cars mean that I can't upgrade any time soon. Hope people find this post useful. I have plenty of vids while driving in dry and wet conditions with both low and high beam but I haven't figured out how to upload videos here yet.

Appreciate you taking the time to detail about Autobahn LEDs. These guys are 100 kms away from my place and I've read good reviews about them, considering lumens per bulb these fellas throw out. Did come across a few threads here, but dropped it, as there wasn't a long term update.

This thread perhaps makes me want to revisit the idea of replacing the HLGNs on my Figo to a better solid, cost effective LED. My primary dilemma was with the longevity of the LEDs. The Aliexpress one currently doing duty on my motorcycle -- the unit themselves are pretty robust, lo I've started to experience where one of the LEDs (HB in my case) started to flicker and give up the ghost or work intermittently, all after a few months of ownership, a shame indeed at night.

I'd have loved, if you could have thrown in some images of actual driver unit, wiring harness and the bulb itself, which would have satiated my OCD.

But do quote me next time for your detailed post update, which I'd love to hear.

Cheers!
VJ

[rsjagtap]

Well explained buddy.

I experimented on a similar note for my Creta (2019) model. This was referred to me by my friend who also owns his own workshop and due to my frequent night travels he suggested this Power Vision V60 and PVMAX Led Conversion Kit. (Cost me 14000 INR including installation)








The high beam is a bit dissapointing however, the low beam is more than enough to illuminate the road as per requirement.

However, I could not find more details on the brand even on google apart from whatever is mentioned on the box. But serves it's purpose.

As long as we are "focusing" (Pun Intended) on safety of our as well as others, experienting on the headlights for the cars is always a learning curve.

Keep it up!

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Appreciate you taking the time to detail about Autobahn LEDs. These guys are 100 kms away from my place and I've read good reviews about them, considering lumens per bulb these fellas throw out. Did come across a few threads here, but dropped it, as there wasn't a long term update.


I'd have loved, if you could have thrown in some images of actual driver unit, wiring harness and the bulb itself, which would have satiated my OCD.

But do quote me next time for your detailed post update, which I'd love to hear.

Cheers!
VJ

Hello friend. I had a busy month but I'm here with the updates requested. Despite a lot of searching, I just could not find the box or pictures from when I initially installed these lights so I ended up removing the LEDs today to get some pictures!




Here it is with just the dust cap removed so you can see how the bulb sits. Note how the entire assembly along with the driver unit can be easily shoved inside the housing. Nothing protruding, plenty of space in these projectors.




Here is the bulb itself. Note the discolouration from the heat. They were all black when I installed it. Other than cosmetic, there doesn't seem to be any damage or adverse effects. They still work just as good as day 1. Would advise a larger dust cap if you can actually find a good quality one so they can breathe better.




The driver unit along with the connection to the original holder. The little black connector you see below is where the original halogen bulb was connected. Its all plug and play. Zero alterations required. The entire thing can be shoved into the housing.




Here it is with the OEM dust cap installed. Clean, OEM look and no one can tell the lights have been changed until they open the dust cap. Plenty of clearance but a larger dustcap could help with the cooling by providing more ventilation.

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by rsjagtap

Well explained buddy.

I experimented on a similar note for my Creta (2019) model. This was referred to me by my friend who also owns his own workshop and due to my frequent night travels he suggested this Power Vision V60 and PVMAX Led Conversion Kit. (Cost me 14000 INR including installation)



However, I could not find more details on the brand even on google apart from whatever is mentioned on the box. But serves it's purpose.


Keep it up!

Thanks dude! You are not able to find any details of the brand because it is just a chinese bulb with the distributor/importer's brand slapped on. Think about when you go to Baskin Robbins for ice cream and they offer you tissues with their logo printed on it. Baskin Robbins obviously does not manufacture tissues themselves nor do they have any tissue factories. All these bulbs are churned out in various factories in China and the cost is determined by whether they are an obsolete or new design.


Looking at the LEDs you have posted, it does seem like you have overpaid for it unless this was bought 5 years back. Look at how thick the stems of the LED are. The thinner the stem and the closer the back to back LED chips are to each other, the better it will mimic a halogen bulb filament size and the better the output will be. If you are satisfied with the setup, it's okay. It's not worth changing until they die.

[Cresterk]

Originally Posted by Artyom

Nice Post brother.

1. Can you share the Link from where did you purchase this?
2. I am assuming there was no need to cut the cap cover to accommodate the LED assembly.Right?

Here is my post just in case you want to go through the whole story.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/showt...errerid=574755 (Review | Osram LEDriving HL Premium | 6000 Kelvin | Hyundai Creta)

I have already replied to the rest of your questions but here you go, I tracked down a different link for the product I bought:

Indian distributor :
https://autobahntechnologies.com/pro...eadlight-bulb/


Direct link to chinese listing:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/22558...andl_shipto=US

I have posted pictures of the dust cap in my earlier post today.

Originally Posted by RaghavEvoX

I had done a similar LED upgrade a month back in my 2017 Hyundai Verna.

Philips Ultinon Pro9000 HL (Costed Rs.10500) for the main headlight.
Aazoom AZ1301 (Costed Rs.8000) for the fog light

But I was not really happy with the performance.
It was fine when I saw the brightness from outside the car.
But when driving, especially in the highways, I felt the stock setup with halogen was much better.
And it sucked in the rains.

On further inspection, there is a good chance you might have been shown a box with the philips ultinons and then had something else installed. The box of the LED you posted does not match the spec compatible with hyundai projectors. Do open the projector dust cap and check. I will give you detailed instructions if you reply to this.

[Flattyre]

I am also planning to upgrade my elite i20 headlights too. If you dont mind if you have any videos both in wet and dry condition can you share it here. It would be very helpful.

[RaSing]

Hi Cresterk

Would you be able to suggest a good bulb upgrade for the i20, 2023(March) sportz.
I am a bit confused. On the philips website there are plenty of them listed https://www.philips.co.in/c-m-au/car...-bulbs/halogen. Thanks

[hrishi_dypim]

I have i20 magna 2012 model and it does not have fog light. Headlight throws is very poor as it has normal halogen reflector.
Can the same bulb be fitted ?
Also if any suggestion for installing fog light.