Hi Friends,
This could be a normal DIY specifically for after-market fog lamp installations where an OEM does not provide one. I have searched a lot in Team BHP but have not come across a thread specifically for Tata Tiago any variant. Hence a new thread.
I bought my ride in 2019 still under warranty and I had no idea that Tata would not provide me 2 important things in the car 1) Fog light and 2) Auto/Manual IRVM which greatly aid while driving at night times. Read quite a lot about DIYs in this forum and specifically threads from @Reinhard, @ leoshashi, to name a few…these have really helped me gather a lot of information to go ahead and do it…
I would sincerely thank @Reinhard, @leoshashi, @a4anurag, @ Gannu_1 for sharing various DIY threads with us.
I was a little confused as to what should be done because 1) The car didn’t have pre-installed fog lights and hence there was no wiring present which I could have used. 2) I was not comfortable piercing car’s firewall and install a switch inside. 3) I was not in favor of using headlight switch to operate the fog lights that way I would have had no separate switch for the fog lights.
After pondering a lot on what do…I decided to have independent control, it was necessary to install a separate switch and hence piercing the car’s firewall was the only option. Though @Reinhard had used the Bluetooth method to control the fog lights I steered away from the idea…also warranty related issues are untouched if you have dedicated circuit & control for the fog lamps installed.
Lets quickly go ahead with the DIY project it will be in STEPs for better clarity….
Materials used for the DIY.
• 2x IPHCar 3" bi xenon projectors including mounting brackets (Model number 612, water-proof)
• 2x 55W AES HID ballasts (Non-canbus adapter type)
• 2x 55W 5500K HID bulbs with H11 spec
• H4 wiring harness with relay
• Push/Pull switch for now (later on I’ll replace it with a toggle switch)
• ˝ inch flexible pipe 2-3 meters
• Couple of Spade & Ring Lugs for 1 sq.mm wire gauge
Materials used:
Most of them are aware of what are the tools required for a DIY project and you can find more of it over here -
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...ols-diyer.html (Tools for a DIYer)
Before we start with the DIY you really need to know if your car is Positively Switched or Negatively Switched, it will help to understand how to proceed ahead and complete the wiring safely. It is a must if your car is from a Premium segment cause in that case the wiring may be monitored by a computer or a dedicate module which may throw up some error signs later on.
Engine bay before wiring was installed:
Step 1 – Install Push/Pull switch in the cabin - Pull the panel below the steering wheel towards you from the LHS that way it is easier to remove, it will need a little jerk so the panel unlocks, then proceed to the RHS here too you will have to apply a little jerk and pull the panel toward you and it will unlock.
I have installed the switch on the LHS as marked in below image:
The Fuse box:
Panel with the switch installed:
Scene behind the panel, had to make a tiny hole in the firewall gourmet to get the wire through, with this we complete the work on the inside of passenger cabin:
I was stupid to follow a Youtuber and installed the switch in this place... I should admit it is not a good place to install a switch. Anyways, I will change the place soon.
Step 2 – Modify the H4 wiring kit to power fog lamps, here you will find that there are 2 circuits one for low beam and the other for high beam. Since we are using this kit to power fog lamps I would need any one of the circuits and the remaining one you can put away after applying insulation tape at the ends. Cut both the H4 connectors of the wiring kit and solder the H11 connectors that come with the fog lamps.
Please ensure two things over here, always make a straight joint to combine the wires. The joints should never be parallel / at the same length to each other. When you bring the joints near, they should come one after the other please see the image for reference.
Straight joint:
Step 3 - Open the bonnet to complete the wiring part using the modified H4 wiring kit. Ensure you route the wire such that it does not come in contact of any moving part and heated surface as it may lead to melting of wire insulation and further the circuit will be grounded. Use cable ties (wherever feasible) to fix the wiring and iron wires/nut bolt to fix the ballast.
Engine bay after I was done with the wiring part:
Step 4 - Remove the front bumper for fog lamp & ballast installation
Without the front bumper:
Ballast installed on the RHS vertical member of chassis using 3M tape and wrought iron wire for better weight management as I don’t trust only 3M tape and cable ties to hold the ballast:
Over a period both the tape and cable tie will give away leaving the ballast dangling freely:
Repeat the same on the LHS.
Step 5 – Installing the projectors on the front bumper fog lamp housing. TATA Tiago bumper has no provision of nut bolts to fit the fog lamp body, TATA has given simple flat head screws along with locking system to install the fog lamp body. In my case they had given blank plate in fog lamp housing, so you need to cut this blank plate to fix it around the projector body. Post cutting this plate it turns in to a ring which fits around lamp body.
I have been doing this DIY for 2 weeks now because I manage to get free time only on Sundays. Hence even while writing this thread I am yet to address the alignment issue post installation. I would be posting additional images once I am done with the alignment part.
There are a couple of things which I would like you to check & recheck while doing such a DIY, they are as follows
• Never leave any wire exposed in the engine bay, either use a ˝ inch flexible pipe to cover the wire or at least wound the wire generously with black (only black) insulation tape. If you have cloth type black insulation tap nothing like that.
• Always use a lug at the wire ends it is a best practice to avoid any untoward incident refer image
• Always use iron wires / nut bolts to secure the ballasts in addition to 3M tape
• Put a sealant in place if you, puncher the fire wall to seal the hole.
Installation:
The firewall:
Job done:
Complications –
1. If there is no wiring, then you will also not have a switch in the front fascia plate and you will have to install one of your own.
2. Initially when I installed the ring on projector body it did not fit perfectly and I had to use a double-sided tape (Gap filler) for a sturdy fit, later I used silicon sealant to fix the ring properly on the projector body.
3. It will certainly take some time to adjust the beam throw primarily because there is no provision for projector type fitment. This is really bothering me as of now…
4. If you go for Fascia Plate on the Dashboard it is an expensive affair & you still won’t find a separate switch over there. TATA has smartly combined the wiring and the plate itself is basically electronic circuit board which is difficult to be modified or time consuming affair.
I will post the remaining images once the alignment is done.
to be continued...