[fluidicjoy]

Adding OE style DRLs to a Polo



I thought I’d pen down this really cool DRL DIY which was on my mind ever since I got our Polo. It’s well-known that the Highline+ Polo nor the GT TSI is not offered with the fancy GTI LED headlights and hence there was no DRL on the car at all.



DRLs are a good to have, standard feature in most cars in 2021, and frankly they’re not just for style, but they actually make for a decent safety feature if implemented perfectly. Even our Grand i10 came with a beautifully bright DRL which is controlled by the Parking Brake. So, getting a pair of DRLs was always on my to-do list, but I had no idea how I was going to achieve it in the cleanest way possible.



The OEM way to get DRLs in the Polo 6R without a new headlight assembly, was to have the DRLs running in the foglight.



I had first seen this implementation in the European spec Polo 6R which had a halogen DRL in the Foglight assembly itself. On the Indian spec car, the spot for the DRL is a blank. There is a plastic moulding in the rear, but the reflector is solid with no provision for a DRL.

Disclaimer
This is a Retrofit I did not complete myself since I eventually moved to DRLs integrated within the headlights. Most of the parts and connectors listed have been cross-referenced to be a straight fit. However some minor elements could still be different when you start to do this on your car.

A friend of mine and a Polo enthusiast Prerak (who is insanely popular on Instagram @that.red.477) was successfully able to install these DRLs in his Polo with these guidelines and so I’m confident you can too.

This thread would not have been as vibrant and lucid without the photos and videos he has clicked while documenting his process workflow. As a bonus, I’ll link his video at the end of this thread so you can sit back and enjoy this DIY.

The Discovery



When I was installing the Chinese Automatic Headlight switch last year, I was curious to see the different notations on the T17 headlight pin connector. TFL, NSL, 56* were some of the notations I saw.



Turns out that these are short forms for different terminals and lights in VW’s lingo. Then, using a continuity tester, I found that the empty slot at T17/3 on the headlight switch, was working like a proper DRL with voltage appearing and disappearing just like it should for a DRL circuitry.

Some more scouting around helped me find references to VW’s own wiring diagram for a DRL which was being powered from T17/3 and thus was born the idea of wiring a DRL to the Polo using the OEM route.

We began this discussion by saying that the stock Foglight does not have a ready-made provision for throwing in a DRL Bulb and so if you don’t want to modify any stock fixture, then your best bet is to buy a new pair of OEM GTI fog lights. As per my friend Sheethal’s experience (who is a passionate and highly knowledgable VAG master), these imported fog lights are a lot better than the Indian made fog lights.

Buying this new part gives you a dedicated slot and bulb holder for this DRL and all you need to do now is to complete the wiring. The part numbers for this Fog Light with DRLs are 6C0 941 661 and 6C0 941 662.

The last time I checked, these were about Rs. 13-14k a pair. You can source OEM equivalents on Ebay UK for lesser, but the net price does not turn out to be all that great once they pass through our unpredictable Indian customs who might send them to you duty free or might even outrageously value them for 2x-2.5x more than what they’re really worth.

The DIYers out there would love to soil their hands and have this retrofitted on their car. The DIY route is the cheaper yet more fulfilling option and here’s a list of parts that you’d need.

Let’s Talk Tools, Parts and Parts Numbers
1. DRL Bulb Holder (Bulb Carrier) - 6C0 941 669 x2
2. DRL Bulb Connector - 1J0 973 722
3. DRL Bulbs - W21W
4. DRL Output Wires : 1mm^2 for power, 1mm^2 for ground.
5. Headlight Switch to Fusebox Input Power Wire - 1mm^2 - N 906 844 05 - Headlight Switch T17/3
6. Fuse : 15A (SB56), Fusebox Pins - N 907 327 03 if wiring from Fusebox.
7. TESSA Tape - Fabric Type, Soft type
8. T20 Torx Screw to unscrew fog-lights



The bulb holders turned out to be slightly expensive for me since I imported them, but I heard it could be possible to procure these for about Rs. 3000 a pair locally. These holders might also be aboard a few older Skoda Superb and Passat cars, and if you’re someone who likes to search around for used parts, then this could work out to be incredibly cheap. I had procured holders for retrofitting DRLs on my car, but ended up sending them to Prerak, who was undoubtedly more excited than I was to install these on his car.



Here’s another closer look at the Bulb Holder. This bulb holder can house W21W bulbs and you can also use an LED bulb. The holder twists and locks onto the Foglight DRL section. It also has an O-ring for keeping water out, so make sure that’s not cut or damaged before installing. If you have doubts about the sealing, then I recommend a small beading of silicon gasket to ensure even better water proofing.

Next, to connect these DRL holders to power, you’ll need to find yourself some Bulb Connectors. 1J0 973 722 is the right connector for the bulb carrier we’ve used. I consulted and verified this part number with another Polo enthusiast Dr. Patil.



I hate to admit, but Aliexpress was indeed a great place to source electrical connectors and crimps and if you look 1J0 973 722 up on Aliexpress, you’ll get a full connector kit along with waterproof seals and crimps which looks something like this.

If it’s possible, then I’d recommend sourcing the entire set, and crimping it with a fresh set of wires and crimps. If that doesn’t seem to work out, then try and source this connector from a scrap yard along with the wires too.

However, the one potential downside with sourcing from a scrap yard, is that the stock wire gauge might not be sufficient or robust enough for your project. Not all appliances which may be using this same connector might require the same wiring gauge and so make sure your wires are of the right spec.



Smaller wires could particularly be more concerning if you plan to use power hungry bulbs. Prerak had to reassemble each crimp and solder it since the wires on one of the connector he procured was not as per the mark.

The VW wiring diagram suggests 1mm^2 gauge wires and you can buy these from a local automotive store. If you like to colour code your work, then buy a Red wire for power and a Brown one for ground. Again, to err on the side of safety, you’re better off with having a larger core wire than a smaller one.

Simplified Circuit Diagram (Modified from VW’s Official DRL Wiring Diagram)



How Does This Work?
This is not a BCM controlled DRL for the BCM High. The DRL is powered from the light switch from slot T17/3 and is protected with a 15A Fuse.



Depending on your comfort with working on the fusebox, you can choose to wire it in the stock fusebox or just connect an in-line fuse between the wires to complete the circuit. A 15A fuse was specified on the factory spec assuming 21W bulbs.

The OEM way to wire any accessory is to wire it in the fusebox, but it could be tricky for most folks who don’t have the right tools and haven’t worked on their car fuses before. Just to be clear, in this case, we are not tapping any power from another circuit and so a fuse tap is not really the right option. Prerak used a fuse which is housed in a plastic box and placed it in the engine bay. It's located along the fender and can be spotted by observing the two red wires.



Please note that unlike an electrical accessory like dash cams, reverse cameras etc which we connect to battery power, these DRLs are being powered from the headlight switch and hence we do not need to tap into any Fuse Power (+15 or +30). That is the beauty of this retrofit.

If anyone still wants to connect this to a fully empty slot in the fusebox, then you will need to procure two Fusebox Pins - N 907 327 03. This would be followed by procedures to take the driver footwell air vent out, fuse box out, removing the locking pin and inserting wires, and putting everything back without damaging the big wiring bundle which relates to everything on your car.

An inline fuse would be highly easy and convenient for this retrofit and you can buy one for as less as Rs. 50.

Quick Process Workflow
1. Preparing Fog-light Assembly to mount new DRL Bulbs.
1. Remove the Foglight from the car.
2. Drilling a Hole into the blank reflector region to fit the bulb holder.
3. Install the DRL bulb holder.
4. Mounting the bulbs.
2. Wiring
1. Making the wiring as per the schematic.
2. Routing the wires to the fog-lights and routing the wiring in the inside of the car.
3. Connecting plug and play connectors to the headlight switch via a FUSE.
4. Connecting appropriate ground points as per your wiring length and convenience.
3. Testing

Drilling Into The Reflector



To make way for the DRL, we need to finely trim along the blank cutout so the DRL holder can lock in place here. You might need to use multiple tools and will need plenty of patience to do this right. The holder will then twist in and be secured in place inside this new DRL space.



Once you have the holder secure, you still have to cut into the reflector bowl. I was personally paranoid about this step because it seemed like the most challenging part of this DIY.



Using a drill, you can gently carve into this reflector bowl and make the right sized hole depending on what dimension bulb or LED you wish to use.

I was expecting a lot of debris to fall inside while drilling, but if you use an inverted work bench, then you can reduce the amount of debris which remains inside. If there’s any debris inside after drilling, then a flexible soft brush or a vacuum cleaner should be a good option to evacuate this DRL chamber and make it ready for housing your new bulb.



Preparing Wires and Routing
The schematic above is incredibly simple. We have one wire going into the the Headlight switch at T17/3 and you can find a crimp with part number N 906 844 05.



To access the headlight switch and the T17 connector, you will have to take the side panel on the driver side out along with the headlight switch, which can be twisted and turned to be pulled out elegantly. If you’re doing this on very early cars like 2012-2013, then it wouldn’t harm to check the switch once to see if it has a DRL pin at T17/3. Another way to double check is using the multimeter and checking for power at T17/3.

This T17/3 wire splits into two wires which will go on either side of the DRL. This is primary power wire which will run the DRLs and turn it off when the headlights are turned on. Just as they should.

Each DRL also needs a ground connection. You can also make a similar arrangement by making a long common ground wire, but I prefer to have two independent ground points for the two DRLs. There are plenty of ground points in the engine bay and if you have a Ring-Connector at the end of your ground wire, then you can loop your ground cable to any ground point nearest to you.

Joining and Taping Harnesses



Automotive wiring can be joined in quite a few ways depending on your preference. There are so many different techniques to join wires and I’ve seen at least 3-4 good ones on YouTube. Soldering, X-Splices (Western Union Joints) and Adhesive Heat Solder crimps are a few of the options I’ve used in the past.

Regardless of which one you use, make sure the joint is nice and tight and does not come off easily. A layer of insulating tape or shrink would make your joint corrosion resistant if you plan on keeping it in the engine bay, where it could have access to moisture during the monsoon or during washing.



Prerak has used heat-shrinks to prepare his harnesses and taped wires with Tessa tape. There are two types of automotive tapes I’ve come across while working on VW cars. Softer ones which I’ve found in the interior and a slightly more resilient one which is more heat resistant and more suitable for wiring in the engine. So make sure you choose the one you need, as sellers on Amazon seem to be prescribing one type for both uses.



For automatic cars, the empty rubber grommet for the non-existent Manual Clutch Cylinder is one of the quickest ways to get wires from the engine bay into the cabin. This grommet should be removed to make a small hole to feed the wires and then should be reattached securely to the engine firewall.



For manual cars, you can use the door-fender grommet or the wiring grommet under the windshield covering plastic on the passenger side for feeding the wire inside to the light switch, but I would love to know if there are any more convenient routes for Manual transmission cars, since I haven’t personally worked on one.

Connector Breakup View



To insert crimps into the VAG connector, you need to pull out the pink locking tab which slides out when you pry it out gently with a flat blade screw driver. Once you insert the crimps inside, reinsert the pin locking tab to secure the pins in the connector.

Once everything is connected, you can test the fruits of your labour by trying out all the positions in the headlight switch.



You have successfully installed some neat looking DRLs on your car and you have full freedom to install whatever bulb and colour temperature you wish. I'm for sure a fan of White DRLs. The DRL will turn off when the Headlights are turned on. The fog-lights work as usual. Here is a click of the fog-lights along with the DRLs.



Heartiest congratulations and a big thanks to Prerak for sharing pictures and videos of his efforts with me so it could be shared on TeamBHP. I hope this DIY helps many more passionate Polo Vento drivers and on this note, wishing you all a very Happy Diwali.

https://youtu.be/ozAbC1RWn5s

[Aditya]

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!

[Shreyas_H]

This is brilliant - saw this on Instagram too. I'm continuously amazed by the mod potential this car has!

[GaryTSI]

Brilliant work by both of you, I have been following Prerak on Instagram for almost a year now and the small OEM+ mods he has put in really inspires me to save some money and do some minor upgrades to my own Polo. I even had a chance to talk to him on text regarding buying some components and he was very polite and comforting and I only wish the best for him.

As for Fuidicjoy, where do I even begin? I got my Polo around the same time you did but the amount of work you've put in really makes it probably the best Polo TSI I've seen in India, It is so perfectly done with the OEM+ mods that I wish VW took some notes from you and improve the actual product. Keep up the good work and I am excited to see what's next on this thread.

[igemini]

I might sounds like a complete idiot, but I failed to understand how this is better than just turning on the fog lights? Is this worth investing that much time, money and efforts? This is not to offend anyone but I totally didn't get the point.

[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by fluidicjoy

The OEM way to get DRLs in the Polo 6R without a new headlight assembly, was to have the DRLs running in the foglight.

I have OEM DRLs in my 2002 VW. The trigger for the DRL is inside the light switch. When I replaced the light switch, it did say on the box that it was for cars with DRL.

I have tested this once by replacing the switch with one from a car without the DRL that I picked up from the breaker. The DRL did not work.

When I turn on the ignition, the lights come on and goes off during cranking. When the car starts, the lights come on at half strength.
I see an extra wire from the alternator and think this has something to do with the DRL.

[sarfraz1997]

Beautifully written, like all your other posts. It’s just amazing how much mod potential this car has, thanks to VW for stripping it down to this extent

Originally Posted by igemini

I might sounds like a complete idiot, but I failed to understand how this is better than just turning on the fog lights? Is this worth investing that much time, money and efforts? This is not to offend anyone but I totally didn't get the point.

It is not for performance, it is more for aesthetics and the cool factor for a few enthusiasts. If this gives happiness to someone, in my opinion it is worth investing that much time, money and efforts as well.

[fluidicjoy]

Originally Posted by igemini

I might sounds like a complete idiot, but I failed to understand how this is better than just turning on the fog lights? Is this worth investing that much time, money and efforts? This is not to offend anyone but I totally didn't get the point.

DRLs are lights meant to only switch on during the daytime to supplement exterior lighting, when the headlight beam is off. The DRLs start working the moment the switch is in the 0 Position. They also light up when the switch goes to the 2nd position and turn off when the headlights are on Low Beam mode. They're an additional set of lights sitting in the Fog assembly, not meant to substitute or complete with the Fog Light.

You don't even have to touch the headlight switch to have these running. The fog lights are a functional and brighter set of bulbs and an overkill to use all throughout the day when all you wanted was a small set of lights which serve as DRLs, to indicate the vehicle is on the move.

If someone wanted DRLs like they offer on international variants without breaking the bank, then this DIY is the fastest way to achieve it. The cost difference is 16-17k Vs 5k minus the joy one experiences while working on the car.

Is it worth the time, effort and money? I'd say to each one their own. Hope this helped.

[OEMplus55]

Great post @fluidicjoy! Really enjoy tasteful mods like these (as you can see from my username). Very informative and clearly laid out. I have also been following Prerak for a while now, and have been blown away by the breadth of interesting tidbits he keeps showcasing from a single car.

Looking forward to hearing about more DIY projects!

[WINGRIDER1212]

DRLs on a Polo 6R :
I tried to add DRL’s to my polo following DIY: Fitting Euro-spec DRL fog lights on my Volkswagen Polo | Team-BHP on Team BHP.
I was not able to source the fog lamp holder required to complete the job. Ankit from Durvient.com tried to help me by sourcing alternative bulb holders (non-OEM/universal holders). However, these universal holders were did not fit into the fog lamps properly which led to looking for alternatives to the holder and bulb arrangement. Which is when I found the dual color switchback-DRL indicator led (switchback lights) on Durvient.com. and I here is the installation process I followed for my polo GT.


Here are the step-by-step instruction of the installation I followed:

Step 1: Gather the Necessary Materials

1. 1. Durvient dual-color switchback DRL indicator LED lights (comes with in line resistor, to be mounted on metal).
2. 2. 22mm hole saw drill.
3. 3. Sealant Adhesive (Silicone based recommended for easy removal)
4. 4. Wiring cables and cable ties.
5. 5. 2.8mm TE connectors.

Step 2: Prepare the Fog Lamps

1. Use the 22mm hole saw drill to carefully drill a hole into the fog lamps.
2. Drill the same size hole for both the outer shell in the back and the reflector.
3. Trim the outer shell by an additional 2mm to ensure the bulb fits correctly after drilling a whole with the 22 mm whole saw, do not use a 28mm whole saw bit it might be too big.

Step 3: Apply Sealant

- Add some additional sealant to be extra careful, although this step might not be necessary (silicon based sealant is recommended for easy removal when required).



Step 4: Install the DRL Lights

1. Find a metal sheet/portion on car’s body and attach resistor (yellow block) to it safely. Caution – Resistor gets hot.
2. Insert the switchback DRL indicator LED lights into the drilled holes in the fog lamps. Ensure there is no wiggling else pour more glue and let it settle.

Step 5: Wiring Setup (For DRL only function)

1. For Polo GT with a tear drop in the engine bay for wire routing: Connect the positive (white) wire of the DRL to the pin no. 3 of the headlight switch using 2.8mm TE connector. Bolt the negative (black) wire to the car's body (on metal surface). Insulate indicator’s red wire with a tape.
2. For manual Polo without the tear drop: Tap the positive wire for the DRL from PIN 9 of the headlight connector located behind the headlight. Bolt the negative (black) wire to the car's body (on metal surface). Insulate indicator’s red wire with tape.

Note: DRL wire comes with in line fuse for added protection.



Step 6: Route the Wiring

1. Route the wires through the front bumper discreetly.
2. Use cable ties to secure the wires to the bumper, making them inconspicuous unless observed from a low angle.
3. Routed the wire through the front bumper and add cables ties to the bumper which won’t be visible until you bend down to see. (wiring was temporary will get a permanent alternative soon)
   

Wiring Diagrams: Wiring diagram for reference.

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by WINGRIDER1212

Here are the step-by-step instruction of the installation I followed:

Nice stuff. I have been contemplating installing DRLs into my GT TSI since some time now, but yet to take the plunge.

What wires have you used for the connection? I hope they are automotive grade / thick enough to manage the heat exposure. The area in which those will run, gets extremely hot in turbo petrol cars in few minutes of running.

Also - if not already done (looking at the photos above) - please ensure you fully cover them up in conduits / automotive tape. This will ensure better thermal protection & most importantly defense against rat bites. Rat nibbled exposed copper wires are IMO the biggest contributor to electrical fires in cars. You can never be fully sure, so take all possible precautions.

[durvient]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Also - if not already done (looking at the photos above) - please ensure you fully cover them up in conduits / automotive tape. This will ensure better thermal protection & most importantly defense against rat bites. Rat nibbled exposed copper wires are IMO the biggest contributor to electrical fires in cars. You can never be fully sure, so take all possible precautions.

Finding automotive grade wire isn't easy and does not come cheap, I generally use 0.75 sq mm wires from RR Kabel or Finolex or go with 1.0 sq mm if 0.75 is not found.