[hserus]

Originally Posted by gopa99

I get your logic. Though off topic, motorcycles with wet clutches should not be on HDEO, just FYI. It will prematurely wear out the clutches and have excessive slip while on the run.

That seems a controversial statement among the biker community.

Many of them on BHP feel they get better results with truck hdeo than with standard (jaso ma2) bike specific oils.

[Gansan]

Is the F8 engine in the current Alto 800 in any way different from the one in my 2009 Alto? Because the engine oil recommended for mine in the manual is 20W40, which is unavailable at the A.S.S these days and I supply HX7 10W40 during the service. They are saying it is alright to use 5W30, but I am not convinced.

Since your manual specifies 5W30, I am wondering if the engine is different in any way. In my car manual, 5W30 is recommended only for places which don't get very hot summers.

The correct quantity of oil with oil filter change is 2.7 litres as per the manual. And what did you do with the drained oil?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Going by the image and the range it is identical like mine. Although mine claims to be a different brand. A lot of these tools get made in China and are sold/marked under different brands.

I'd returned it cause the range was weird and finding a precise setting was near impossible, the accuracy presuming the wrench was accurate which it surely isn't is similar to what we'd get with a beam type wrench.

I've contacted a few other suppliers and are looking at clickers a bit more accuracy or at least rounded figures. Fingers Crossed!

Originally Posted by gopa99

I get your logic. Though off topic, motorcycles with wet clutches should not be on HDEO, just FYI. It will prematurely wear out the clutches and have excessive slip while on the run.

Originally Posted by hserus

That seems a controversial statement among the biker community.

Many of them on BHP feel they get better results with truck hdeo than with standard (jaso ma2) bike specific oils.

Controversial indeed, all my motorcycles have predominantly run on HDEO's and clutch life is more or less the same i.e irrespective of motorcycle I get around 50k km's of life, I'm a heavy guy and do ride over trails due to my geographic location and since both my current motorcycles are short strokes there'd be quite a bit of slipping involved when climbing over obstacles at low speeds.

I'm presuming if I stick to highways alone I'd get more life but then again, 50k seems pretty decent for places that cost 1.5k for the P220 and Rs.150/- for the CT100B.

All said it really is hard to debate since the clutch again is a consumable like brake pads and life depends on use.

Originally Posted by Gansan

Is the F8 engine in the current Alto 800 in any way different from the one in my 2009 Alto?

Yes, both are F8D Engines.

Because the engine oil recommended for mine in the manual is 20W40, which is unavailable at the A.S.S these days and I supply HX7 10W40 during the service. They are saying it is alright to use 5W30, but I am not convinced.

Any oil is better than no oil.

Just get anything you're comfortable with and then forget about it.

With 5W30/0W20 you get quite a bit of noticeable clatter whereas with the 15W40 I've used now the rattle seems muffled, still audible with the windows rolled down.

There's some lack of feedback which makes it hard to extract the best FE from the motor as you'd be doing conservative speeds rather than driving at the edge to prevent pinging. But the added refinement is much appreciated.

[quote]Since your manual specifies 5W30, I am wondering if the engine is different in any way. In my car manual, 5W30 is recommended only for places which don't get very hot summers.[quote]

The oil pump is surely different as I checked on Boodmo and they have different part numbers but they seem to be cross compatible as the newer pump shows compatibility for the Alto 0.8L(Yours) as well.

All said I really doubt a change in grade would pose a challenge to the gerotor pump.

The correct quantity of oil with oil filter change is 2.7 litres as per the manual. And what did you do with the drained oil?

My manual mentions 3L, though I doubt the difference in 300ml makes a concernable difference when observed from the dip stick POV.

The old oil I pour back into the used up oil can and then leave it for the scrap collector to collect, if you do not have such an arrangement you could simply drop it off at your nearest FNG, they get paid for recycling used oil.

Regards,
A.P.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Gansan

Is the F8 engine in the current Alto 800 in any way different from the one in my 2009 Alto? Because the engine oil recommended for mine in the manual is 20W40, which is unavailable at the A.S.S these days and I supply HX7 10W40 during the service. They are saying it is alright to use 5W30, but I am not convinced.

Since your manual specifies 5W30, I am wondering if the engine is different in any way. In my car manual, 5W30 is recommended only for places which don't get very hot summers.

The correct quantity of oil with oil filter change is 2.7 litres as per the manual. And what did you do with the drained oil?

While the engine's basic architecture remains same, F8D, whether it's my 2000 Vintage 5S M800 or your 2009 Alto or 2020 Alto, engines in general are very different. They even had different coolant, engine oil volumes for different generations. I remember seeing 3L engine oil recommended on some manuals. Same with coolant volume as design of coolant galleries had also changed along the way.

They have extensively worked on pistons, bearings and other internals and hence new Gen Altos(post 2012) get recommendation of 5W30. The engine itself feels all new when driven.

We OTOH should always stick to W40 oil as specified in our manuals. My car runs on Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 and I'm extremely happy with the oil.

Regards,
Shashi

[Kpzonwheels]

Taking inspiration from this thread, changed engine oil in my alto 2020. This is my first experience as such. Thanks to fellow bhpian @ashwinprakash for the inspiration and guidance. Using jack to unscrew the overtightened (thanks to MASS guys) drain bolt was a killer idea mate. Oil used is motul's 4100 power SAE 5w30, bought it from Amazon. Drain bolt and gasket was procured from a nearby mgp outlet. Filter was bought from boodmo. It was no means, an easy DIY for me but satisfaction after the process made it worthier.


Drove over the spare wheel



Motul 5w30




Suzuki genuine oil filter bought from boodmo



Cap opened



Unscrewed drain bolt and gasket and here comes the oil



Last few drops



Replaced the old with the new one. My tool to remove the oil filter was terribly failed , so sourced one from a nearby workshop



Pouring new engine oil

[Turrrb0]

Just a quick question, what was the reason you put the spare wheel under the driver side? wouldn't putting the wheel under the passenger side make the drain hole the lowest point in the pan?

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Turrrb0

Just a quick question, what was the reason you put the spare wheel under the driver side? wouldn't putting the wheel under the passenger side make the drain hole the lowest point in the pan?

And why not just use a jack?

[Gansan]

I prefer DIY for many things except oil change. I don't do it even for my bike. What is the need to do that, unless there is an emergency? It is a pain to dispose off the drained oil. I hope the individuals concerned did that responsibly. In a workshop setting there are prescribed procedures for it.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Gansan

I prefer DIY for many things except oil change. I don't do it even for my bike. What is the need to do that, unless there is an emergency? It is a pain to dispose off the drained oil. I hope the individuals concerned did that responsibly. In a workshop setting there are prescribed procedures for it.

Workshops? Pour it all into a drum and sell the drum contents to an oil recycler. The oil is then filtered and sold to roadside garages.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Gansan

I prefer DIY for many things except oil change. I don't do it even for my bike. What is the need to do that, unless there is an emergency? It is a pain to dispose off the drained oil. I hope the individuals concerned did that responsibly. In a workshop setting there are prescribed procedures for it.

Disposing used oil is not an issue at all in general. One can give it at any garage and they will accept it happily since more the used-oil quantity they have, higher they get paid when they hand it over to the recycling point.

I have been doing oil changes from 50K kms myself (DIY) on my car and my DIY partner too (on three of his two-wheelers and car). All our used oils go to the nearby FNG where he happily accepts it since he can earn a bit more from it.

[Turrrb0]

Originally Posted by hserus

And why not just use a jack?

My question was not whether to use a jack, a tyre or stacked bricks, it could be any method to lift the car.
I wanted to understand the reason behind raising the driver side rather than the passenger side.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Turrrb0

Just a quick question, what was the reason you put the spare wheel under the driver side? wouldn't putting the wheel under the passenger side make the drain hole the lowest point in the pan?

That did come to mind.

But for the below two reasons I went with the driver side wheel.

1. I was getting a better feel of where the car's tyre was when climbing over the spare with it under the driver side tyre, and I felt every bit of precision mattered as I was on my own and didn't want the tire hockey-puck'ing away and causing damage/harm.

2. The exhaust was in the way.

Originally Posted by hserus

And why not just use a jack?

The car came with a scissor jack and well, Final Destination came to mind.

Same is why I didn't use the Amazon branded Jack Stands I'd had with me.

Since I am a huge guy and up to my waist is under the car, I really didn't want to risk it.

If it's any solace I did use the jack to undo the drain bolt which was sinisterly over torqued by the ASC.

Regards,
Ashwin Prakash

[Pannag]

Just a quick question about F8D, unlike Alto 0.8 does this alto 800 use distributor less ignition system? As in pics I see some module probably controller by ECM rather than connected by high tension wires from distributor?

[shaprack]

I am planning a major service for my Alto 800 after 105,000 km. Although it had a service at 100,000 km for mechanical and transmission changes, the engine was not majorly serviced at that time.

One mechanic had used GTX 20W-50 engine oil, but a month later, the service center mistakenly drained it and replaced it with ECSTAR 0W-16 engine oil last year.

For this service, I will be addressing the following:

• Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 Engine Oil
• ABRO Engine Oil Motor Flush (the engine oil has never been flushed before)
• Premix Coolant After Flush (can anyone explain the difference between 30/70 and 50/50 pre-diluted Ecstar coolant?)
• Brake Pad Change

Additionally, my Alto 800 takes slightly longer to crank and start, not excessively long but noticeable. The gears remain stiff even after replacing the clutch plate and gear oil. Is this normal because it has a mechanical transmission?

I think mileage is still low thinking of throttle body cleaning. Service center have done something deep engine cleaning with machine don’t know how good it is. Also, should I change air filter just last year it was changed.