[Bsimhan]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Due to clearance issues and the fact that the guys at the ASC used inhumane force to tighten the drain bolt I was unable to break it free at first and hence had to improvise;

Sir, you hit the nail on the head regarding the torquing of the drain bolt. I had the same problem while changing the engine oil for my Innova. It was the same for the oil filter as well. None of the ASCs that I have come across believe in torquing to the specs. The oil filter is located in such a manner that you have to get it out from the top. Had to use excessive force to get out the oil filter that it was dented on the side. Luckily it only bent and didn't tear up. I also noticed that most ASCs depend on pneumatic tools to such an extent that they just don't bother about the torque specs. Ditto for wheel nuts. This frustration led me to buying a quality torque tool. Great review with pics - congrats on a job well done.

[carthick1000]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Ola Folks!

Requirements:

• Fresh Engine Oil.
• Fresh Oil Filter.
• Oil Filter Socket.
• 17mm Ring Spanner.

Regards,
A.P.

Well, a bhpian DIY without a torque wrench in the requirements. Come on!!

[VijayAnand1]

Wonderful log, Ashwin. Gotta say nice improvisation on draining the bolt. Physics rock ain't they. Truly a simple, reliable, efficient workhorse, can't believe with all that flat tapping these engines are so smooth, still makes me wonder.

Cheers!
VJ

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Lowflyer23

Great DIY sir, but I have a doubt as won't the rim of the spare wheel have chances of damage due to the weight of the car on it?

I've never bent a rim this way, for thinking out loud I believe the rim is designed to handle way more torsional load under use than it would have to bear when the front wheel is driven over it.

Again, no scientific backing, this just my assumption and experience.

Originally Posted by vishwasvr

How on earth did you manage to put the car on the tyres!?? JK

The car easily climbs atop the spare tyre, you don't even have to use momentum, slowly climb over it, inch by inch.

I believe down here we're used to crappy roads that the difference in height isn't much of a bother.

Originally Posted by gopa99

This is nice DIY. I see a change in viscosity, you could have got the 5W30 instead of 15W40. Any reasons you switched to this higher grade?

When first brought to India the recommended grade for this motor was 20W40, it was only later that they changed it to 5W30 in favor of greener emissions. Same as what Honda did with its motorcycles.

As for why I went with 15W40, I've had really good experience with them in the past, both my motorcycles run on them and have clocked fairly decent mileage, my CT100B has over 70k on the odo and has been beaten to death but the engine is still in fairly decent condition, hence my faith in HDEO's.

Having said that the price advantage also cannot be ignored for someone who changes oil every 5k km's as originally recommended for the engine compared to the current 10k km's interval.

I know this would trigger an oil debate and I know the case with oils being better than what they used to be but at least for my peace of mind I need to change them at 5k Intervals, wasteful? maybe, but nothing else works for my OCD.

Originally Posted by Bsimhan

This frustration led me to buying a quality torque tool. Great review with pics - congrats on a job well done.

Can you please share details of where you bought the torque wrench from and its price, mine is a 4~24nm clicker from King Tony which I seldom use for the sensitive nuts and bolts, have contemplated getting another one with a wider range, provided budget permits.

Originally Posted by carthick1000

Well, a bhpian DIY without a torque wrench in the requirements. Come on!!

49nm is the recommended torque.

My torque wrench maxes out at 24nm, have been trying to source one with a wider range but its hard to find a clicker that fits in my budget, plus I'm not much of a fan of the beam types.

Regards,
A.P.

[Bsimhan]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Can you please share details of where you bought the torque wrench from and its price, mine is a 4~24nm clicker from King Tony which I seldom use for the sensitive nuts and bolts, have contemplated getting another one with a wider range, provided budget permits.

This is a Torque Master TM160 Professional Series. Slightly weighty, but worth it. I was considering going in for a lighter one, but the spec stopped at 100 foot pounds. Got it for about Rs.3900. It is the non ratcheting type. I got a deal from the gentleman as I got to know him through a friend. I got this from Fasteners and Tools in Bangalore. Attaching a pic for your info. Hope this helps.

[SatyRoy]

I must say the jack stand is the first I have seen. Very innovative. Great DIY.

[nishp]

I am afraid to put the car on tyre. First its real difficult to do and what about rim bending or alloys cracking under the weight?

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Bsimhan

Hope this helps.

Shashi was kind enough to guide me to the following link;



Have ordered it, fits my budget and as for accuracy, at this price I couldn't care less.

Originally Posted by nishp

I am afraid to put the car on tyre. First its real difficult to do and what about rim bending or alloys cracking under the weight?

I thought everyone put the tyre under the car as insurance incase the jack gave out, have seen the same done a few times.

As for the rim breaking, haven't happened to me and this is how I did it in my previous Zen Estilo as well. I'm pretty sure the rim handles way more torsional load when driven on than when one end of the car is driven over it.

Can't say for Aluminum Alloys though, especially the unbranded ones available on the market, so I'd not drive on them personally.

As for driving over one, we have to drive over higher obstacles when going to rural sections, some of the tarmac edges on the highway itself are quite higher than the ground besides it, hence the height of the tyre really isn't a bother for me.

Regards,
A.P.

[srini1785]

@AP : Is it really needed to tilt the car for any oil change?. Even in bikes its not standard practice. There will be some amount of residual oil in the case which should not create any problem.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by srini1785

@AP : Is it really needed to tilt the car for any oil change?. Even in bikes its not standard practice. There will be some amount of residual oil in the case which should not create any problem.

I'm a big guy, can't fit under the car without lifting one end at the least.

I drained about 2.7L and some of the oil is in the oil filter cause it was quite heavier than the unused filter, though I'm clueless about quantity, after filling I did have a look at the dipstick and everything was fine. So that's that.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Shashi was kind enough to guide me to the following link;

Attachment 2111069

Have ordered it, fits my budget and as for accuracy, at this price I couldn't care less.

Kindly post a review once you use it.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Kindly post a review once you use it.

Got it today morning, hit return just now, Amazon would come and collect it tomorrow hopefully.

Hope that'd give you an idea.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

I'm a big guy, can't fit under the car without lifting one end at the least.

I drained about 2.7L and some of the oil is in the oil filter cause it was quite heavier than the unused filter, though I'm clueless about quantity, after filling I did have a look at the dipstick and everything was fine. So that's that.

The m800 has a rather tiny filter. 100-150 ml is all.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Shashi was kind enough to guide me to the following link;

Attachment 2111069

Have ordered it, fits my budget and as for accuracy, at this price I couldn't care less.

Going by the image and the range it is identical like mine. Although mine claims to be a different brand. A lot of these tools get made in China and are sold/marked under different brands.

I actually have two of these, one smaller than this one. This range, I find, is ideal for working on cars. It will allow you to use it on 90% of the bolts/nuts. (Think lug nuts, cilinder head, brakes etc) Only really big one, or smaller ones will require more or less torque.

Note that very few torque wrenches have the same precision along their whole scale. Rule of thumb with all these kind of instruments is that they are more accurate in the top end of the scale.

Enjoy it!

Jeroen

[gopa99]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Same as what Honda did with its motorcycles.
As for why I went with 15W40, I've had really good experience with them in the past, both my motorcycles run on them and have clocked fairly decent mileage, my CT100B has over 70k on the odo and has been beaten to death but the engine is still in fairly decent condition, hence my faith in HDEO's.

.

I get your logic. Though off topic, motorcycles with wet clutches should not be on HDEO, just FYI. It will prematurely wear out the clutches and have excessive slip while on the run.