[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by vjoy3

Was hoping to use this dashcam with front and rear views can double up as a 360 cam for my old war horse

Thought so. But no - they are pretty much useless for this purpose. The positions where they are mounted will generally give a bit skewed and very wide angle view. And then - there is no proper real-time extension display easily available either. If you want 360 degree view - the ideal setup is to actually install an Android head unit with good configuration (4GB RAM and maybe 64GB Storage) - and hook it up with an actual 360deg view camera set (which the Android HUs readily support out of box). But then - for the benefits offered, the cost is too much IMO.

Anyway - the real benefits of 360Deg view are on the corners and sides lower down near the ground - and the dashcams provide 0 coverage in these areas sadly.

[wooka]

The 70mai dashcams cannot be 'hardwired' so easily now.
Most of them recognize a real company OEM hardwire kit as opposed to just using a 5V USB solution, even if it is always powered on.

As a result, card-saving features like 'time-lapse recording' are disabled unless one uses the aforementioned hit.

However, nextdigitron now makes their own in-house alternatives.
There has to be a way to bypass such a 'guard'. Often, companies do it by bridging the data pins with a fixed resistance resistor.

Any such luck/ideas? I have multiple A500S and am fed up of paying for proprietary hardwire kits that do NOT cut off at 12.2V+
They cut off at 11.4-11.6V which is VERY BAD for a diesel car long-term.

I'd rather combine it with an LVCD where I can tune that it runs only at 12.2V+ so I have enough reserve juice to crank.

[amk_2009]

Originally Posted by wooka

The 70mai dashcams cannot be 'hardwired' so easily now.
Most of them recognize a real company OEM hardwire kit as opposed to just using a 5V USB solution, even if it is always powered on.

As a result, card-saving features like 'time-lapse recording' are disabled unless one uses the aforementioned hit.

However, nextdigitron now makes their own in-house alternatives.
There has to be a way to bypass such a 'guard'. Often, companies do it by bridging the data pins with a fixed resistance resistor.

Any such luck/ideas? I have multiple A500S and am fed up of paying for proprietary hardwire kits that do NOT cut off at 12.2V+
They cut off at 11.4-11.6V which is VERY BAD for a diesel car long-term.

I'd rather combine it with an LVCD where I can tune that it runs only at 12.2V+ so I have enough reserve juice to crank.

You may want to use separate device battery supported version of their parking kit. I have been using it for few months now in Scorpio mHawk and charging state change from parking to driving and back is seamless. No more car battery drain doubts.

https://www.nexdigitron.com/products...f4e3deca&_ss=r

[wooka]

Thanks for the link.
A couple of issues with this..

1. It's 6k a battery pack. It won't last particularly long with time lapse recording.
2. The idea was to DIY it.
3. LVCD is something I want to incorporate anyway for some accessories off the battery since I don't have a dual battery. I may at some point go the dual way for the scorpio N since I have space for one. For the Thar though it's another matter ��

And not to forget, Mahindra refuses to give reasonably sized glove boxes.

[vivekdewanta]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

.
[*]Could a readily available hard-wiring kit have worked? Certainly yes. But what's the fun in it! If you are interested in DIYs, every small extra step during installation adds to the fun quotient.[/list]
Happy to help should anyone need any tips while implementing it. Good luck.

What a great DIY experiment you have done. I was planning to do this setup for a long time but was afraid of getting the module fried out with time. And just wanted to know if this has been connected to always on 12v fuse how long will this take to drain out the battery ?

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by vivekdewanta

What a great DIY experiment you have done. I was planning to do this setup for a long time but was afraid of getting the module fried out with time. And just wanted to know if this has been connected to always on 12v fuse how long will this take to drain out the battery ?

Hey - glad you liked it.
As for draining the battery - it will depend on a lot of factors - the battery capacity of your car, how much its usually charged, what current your camera draws usually and so on.
That said - on an average I don't think the battery would run out within 2-3 days or such short periods if its healthy. Will have to do the math of a usual current draw of a camera vis-à-vis a typical 55Ah battery. Too lazy right now for it .

Although - why do you want to do this? Why not keep it connected only to an IGNITION based fuse tap, and rely on the built-in battery of the camera for parking-surveillance triggered by impact/shock (the GSensors of the dash-cams are quite sensitive), just to record the moment when something impacts your car. Most cameras support this mode.
A constant "ON" camera will usually fry the microSD card much earlier due to non-stop erase-write cycle. The CMOS/CCD sensor will also probably live shorter than average given they won't be manufactured for an always-ON application.

[vivekdewanta]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Although - why do you want to do this? Why not keep it connected only to an IGNITION based fuse tap, and rely on the built-in battery of the camera for parking-surveillance triggered by impact/shock (the GSensors of the dash-cams are quite sensitive), just to record the moment when something impacts your car. Most cameras support this mode.
A constant "ON" camera will usually fry the microSD card much earlier due to non-stop erase-write cycle. The CMOS/CCD sensor will also probably live shorter than average given they won't be manufactured for an always-ON application.

Well I was using DDPAi front as always on with company hardwire setup since 4 years now, haven't had issue till date. Initally there were issues with the setup or camera itself, sometimes while driving and during halt at traffic lights camera goes to parking mode and while vehicle is parked it goes to completely sleep mode. So I connected the ACC wire to always on fuse tap and negative wire to a switch which can be used as manual power off and on the device. Now whenever I want to park the vehicle for long period I can simply turn off the camera. Else it's always on at suspicious parkings, never faced any issue with the camera till date.

Now I'm planning to do the same with rear camera setup as well but couldn't find the hardwired, somehow I saw your experiment with 12v to 5v step down module, but wasn't sure about this. Now I can simply connect the negative wire to same switch and can turn off the camera whenever I want or can give them some rest from regular surveillance.
I'm sure if this hasn't failed since 4 or 5 years now, hopefully these will last few more years too.
If you have anything else creative or informative on this then most welcome with your thoughts.

Adding on this I'm using 128GB memory card for both cameras which almost write and re-write after 3-4 days I believe on continuous recording. Moreover never faced battery drain issue even after 5-6 days with front camera on OEM hardwired setup. Will check the back up with buck module too.

[bravo6]

Originally Posted by vivekdewanta

Adding on this I'm using 128GB memory card for both cameras which almost write and write after 3-4 days I believe on continuous recording.

How do you know it hasn't failed already? When flash memory fails, it usually goes into read-only mode, meaning even if the camera is recording, it won't be able to save new videos to the card.

Most cameras can't even detect that a card has failed, so if you don't check the card everyday, you'll find yourself in a pickle when you actually need to access a recording.

IMHO if you are recording extensively you should get multiple cards to spread the wear, or invest in endurance cards.

[vivekdewanta]

Originally Posted by bravo6

How do you know it hasn't failed already? When flash memory fails, it usually goes into read-only mode, meaning even if the camera is recording, it won't be able to save new videos to the card.

Most cameras can't even detect that a card has failed, so if you don't check the card everyday, you'll find yourself in a pickle when you actually need to access a recording.

IMHO if you are recording extensively you should get multiple cards to spread the wear, or invest in endurance cards.

Well I do download every other day or every week a video or two, since I live in The City Beautiful so have to download many beautiful moments while on the road.
Anyways thanks for the heads-up, going forward will keep this in mind about the cards.

[rroy92]

Found the DC TO DC 6-24V 12V to 5V Converter at a better price here :

https://electronicspices.com/product...-supply-module

It is also at Amazon but at around 220 with delivery.

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0C9TXLGLN/


Is this newer and better? QC3.0 QC2.0 USB DC-DC Buck Converter Charging Step Down Module

https://www.amazon.in/xcluma-Convert...dp/B085W3W22P/

[vivekdewanta]

Originally Posted by rroy92

Found the DC TO DC 6-24V 12V to 5V Converter at a better price here :

https://electronicspices.com/product...-supply-module

It is also at Amazon but at around 220 with delivery.

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0C9TXLGLN/


Is this newer and better? QC3.0 QC2.0 USB DC-DC Buck Converter Charging Step Down Module

https://www.amazon.in/xcluma-Convert...dp/B085W3W22P/

Well I also ordered the same and infact used it for couple of days but the module itself was getting pretty much hot not sure why. So I returned the product and came up with another idea. I already had a 12v USB charger which came along the Dashcam, I opened the 12v USB charger and found it also got a 12v to 5v module similar to what I ordered. So I simply connected two wires +ve and -ve inside the charger and closed the casing, well insulated it and there we go. Also noticed the module inside the charger is not getting hot but it's getting just warm which was pretty much okay and safe too.

And yes QC3.0 is Qualcomm 3.0 which means it will charge the phone with speed. Which is approximately upto 18w. And a Dashcam doesn't need that much power it can simply work with 1A as well.