[SCORPION]

The growl and rumble from the snorkel as the big 3.2 does it's Anulom Vilom, and the added spring in her steps, tells me it was all worth it. The Endeavour sounds like an angry lion now. But a very humble lion who likes to remain away from the limelight. Because it is not a roar as loud or spine chilling like from, say, a V8. But a very dignified growl with a few snarls thrown in. From the drivers seat, it is music to my ears. Now I drive window down and music off, just to listen to it. My toughest DIY to date. My 2016 Ford Endeavour 3.2 4x4 AT Trend, with a nose job done.



When someone says, they are extremely happy with the way their car performs, I can assure you, it is only momentary. They soon get bored of it. They want more. For some that feeling of 'extremely happy' might last for a few days, for some a few months, and for some a few years. 'They' includes yours truly.

I am extremely happy with her performance now.

My Endeavour was stock (engine wise) for the first 3 years. Mostly because the engine was indeed, very good. I did some other mods myself, but nothing major. Mine is a Trend 3.2 version.

These are a few of my earlier DIY mods.

1) Ambient lighting (mine did not have OE ambient lighting. So I installed an aftermarket under seat and footwell ambient lighting kit)
2) Installed an Android unit with dashcam and navigation unit on the dash. You can read about it in the Tbhp official review of the Endeavour. I removed it recently because the OS packed up. So now I am back to a dashcam stuck on the windshied and a mobile stuck on the dashboard when I need to use navigation. Not done on a 34 lakh car, Ford. You cheated us, your initial customers.
3) All possible ForScan mods.
4) LED bulbs for headlights, fog lights, indicators and a 55w Opt7 HID kit for the low beam.
5) Switchable front and left side camera with a separate screen. I like to call it my 225 deg camera set up. Very helpful during off roading and tight parking.
6) Headlight protector with LED strips doubling up as DRLs.
7) 5 additional airbags including side curtain airbags and driver knee airbags - Just kidding
8) Recently did a DIY painting of the front grill. Painted it matt black.
9) Also painted the temporary carrier gloss black. The carrier was 'temporary' for the first 2 years after buying it. But after painting it, I like the way it looks on the car and so I havent removed it yet. I really don't need it. With the carrier in place, the Endeavour cannot enter most mall underground parking or pass under bridges or fly overs (by now you must have realised I exaggerate a lot), and the wind noise (sounds like a second turbo spooling up on the roof) it makes will make me get rid of it sometime soon. Until then, it will remain 'temporarily permanent'. Unless I get stuck under a mall earlier.

I turned one of the bathrooms in my house into a temporary painting booth. The bathroom looked like Dexter (from the thriller series) had been there. It takes a lot of prep to turn a bathroom into a painting booth! Mostly involves convincing the missus that this painting needs to be done and your life depends on it!

Other mods, not done by me:

1) Code6 engine remap.
2) Yokohama Geolandar AT tyres 285/60/18.

I never touched the engine for the first 3.5 years. Sometime ago, I was very tempted to install the RD Dieseltronic dual channel tuning box. But somehow, the fear of messing up the engine or the turbo, held me back. I had it on my Cruze for 3 trouble free years. But wasn't prepared to take a chance with the Endeavour.

A few months ago, got the engine remapped by Code6. That changed the way the car drove. It is a safe remap and not something to scorch the tarmac considering the Endeavour is a heavy SUV. In gear acceleration improved vastly and the engine is a lot smoother and less strained. After the remap, I installed a BMC performance filter. At lower rpms, the filter barely makes a difference, but you can feel the engine breathing more easliy at higher rpms. I know the debate on whether these filters are good or bad, is endless. It was recommended by the tuner (a close friend) who did my remap and so I obliged.

Post that came the itch for a snorkel because most of the owners in the Endeavour group reported a marked difference in performace even on their stock cars. They were 'extremely happy' with their cars performance. I thought it might be good for my remapped car too. I must thank fellow Bhpian A.G. for sending me a snorkel kit all the way from Delhi to Coimbatore, just at the nick of time. Because Ford has temporarily removed the snorkel from its accessory list recently, and it's difficult to procure an OEM snorkel kit right now. Might return after a while, I suppose. Ford India, I spent a lot of time on this thread, please bring the snorkel back so this thread can be of some use.

Why do people fit a snorkel?

1. Increased water wading depth.

The Endeavour comes certified from the factory with a water wading capability of 800mm. Am I going to wade into deeper waters? No! I will definitely avoid water wading as far as I can. If I have to, about 800 mm (or just until the tyres are submerged) is about the depth I would wade into unless it is a do or die situation. Because, although the air intake is now much higher than the stock set up, the rest of the electricals/electronics, like the ECU, battery terminals, etc are still as vulnerable. So unless you are a diehard water wader and can take care of adequately protecting these nether regions, you shouldnt try venturing into more than the certified 800mm, just because 'you have a snorkel'. The Endeavour still remains a car. Doens't tranform into an amphibious vehicle.

2. Colder air intake

The higher air intake ensures the engine gets colder air than when the intake is closer to the road surface and within the hotter confines of the engine bay. This aids in slightly better performance. The Endeavour's original air intake goose neck is almost a mini-snorkel and located very thoughtfully.

3. RAM air effect.

As the car starts moving forward, air gets rammed down the snorkel and this increases the amount of air going in to some extent without the VGT having to work harder. This again helps in improved breathing and hence better performance.

4. The GROWL (and snarl).

Now, this is purely a side effect of the snorkel. The intake makes a growling noise as it sucks in air. It is not loud or disturbing to others. It is mostly, only audible to the driver because the intake is so close to his ears, and to people who are very close to the car. This serves 2 purposes: a) You (and the passengers) are happy (not sure about the passengers, though - driver window 2 inches down, no music) the way it sounds, and 2) Others are also happy because you dont annoy them with a 'noisy' (to them) car.

5. Improves the looks

Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. Some people like the way the car looks with the snorkel. Some think it looks hideous. My wife thinks it looks nice because she is a very kind person and she knows I toiled for almost 7 hours to get that thing (whatever it is!) fitted. Had I gotten it fitted elsewhere, her views would have been different. My little ones love the new trunk. Haven't been able to ask anyone else what they think because of The Virus (respect!). I don't think the watchman at the gate really cares, so I haven't asked him. I like it because I know it is a functional snorkel and I think it adds to the rugged appeal of the Endeavour. I am not someone who will fix a dummy snorkel just to improve the looks of a car. Every mod I do to a car has to be functional.

What are the disadvantages of a snorkel? Some of the points here are after talking to people who have a snorkel installed:

1. Water in the airbox.

I feel a bit of water/moisture will go through to the airbox in heavy rain and soak the air filter. There is nothing to block water from entering the snorkel in rain. You cannot turn the cowl the other way. There is a drain hole in the airbox. But at the same time, there is also good engine suction in the air box. So the airfilter is bound to get wet. Here, IMO, the oil trap filters might fare better than the OEM paper filters. I think the oil will repel the water and perform slightly better when wet. This is purely what I think. In the Endeavour, the OEM air intake is located quite thoughtfully just below the lip of the bonnet and I think even without a snorkel, some rain water might be entering the air box. So I guess, the drain functions as expected.

2. Dirtier air filer

Since the snorkel has no protection from the elements like the original air intake under the bonnet, some users have reported an increased number of dirt, bugs and small birds (kidding again) in the airbox forcing you to open the airbox and check/clean the air filter more often than you normally would have. I would also suggest that you check and ensure that the drain hole is clear once in a while, especially during the monsoons. I get this nightmare, that I am driving down the road at a good speed and out of nowhere, a plastic bag comes flying and gets stuck on the intake. What will happen if the engine is suddenly starved of air? Will the car do a somersault?

3. A false sense of invincibility - if you are unaware of the danger

The snorkel should not give you a false sense of invincibility. You shouldn't wade into deeper waters without adequate additional preparations. Meaning adequately protecting the vulnerable electricals and breather hoses. The breather hoses in the Endeavour do not have a filter or NRVs on the goose neck tip. I think this could be a problem and something that needs to be kept in mind. The airbox drain hole itself is vulnerable and could flood the airbox if you stop in deep water for too long. I fabricated a non-return ball valve for the drain hole, but could not fit it because of lack of space below the airbox and fender. That was disappointing because I spent some effort fabricating that valve, and I was very proud of myself. When I realised I couldn't fit it, I had half a mind to stick it on the bonnet like the 'Spirit of Ecstasy'. I plan to drill a hole and fit the valve on the other side. Looks unlikely because the original hole is in the lowest portion of the airbox already. Wonder why it was designed without an NRV in place.

4. May get pulled over by cops for no reason

Some of the guys up North mentioned that the cops are flagging them down and fining them for the snorkel as it sticks out of the registered dimensions of the car. It is a kit provided by Ford and shouldn't, logically, be an issue. I havent heard of anyone getting pulled over, here. KL cops are quite strict and I drive regularly to KL. Anyway, I will deal with it if I have to, when the time comes. If it does, you will hear about it in this thread.

There are different makes of snorkels available for the Endeavour apart from the official Ford kit. A few of them that come to mind are Safari, ARB, GGR, TJM and a whole load of fake ones too. All snorkels that fit the Everest/Ranger duo should fit the Endeavour. I chose to get the Ford OEM kit because it does not require you to drill a massive hole on the fender or the sub frame. Ford has already done it for you. Also because it is an official Ford accessory and comes with its own airbox. Although my car is out of warranty, I still think from an insurance point of view, an OEM kit will hold more value. I know what you are thinking. No, my remap will remain a secret from insurance companies.

Why did I not get it installed at the ASC?

I love doing things on my own. May be my shipping life has made me more resourceful and over a period of time, I have built up a reasonalbly good tool kit at home and I am not generally afraid of using them. I don't remember the last time I called a plumber, an electrician, a painter or a mason home for repairs. Unless it requires serious man power. My car only visits the service centre for regular service. All other minor repairs and mods are DIY. Sometimes I buy the spares from the ASC and fit them myself. The shameless fellows even try to bill me for labour along with the spares, saying it is their policy to help with warranty claims. I break things and bruise my fingers, hands and ego, at times. But I have no one to blame, but myself. I learn valuable lessons. I do admit that people who do these jobs regularly are infinitely more skilled than I am. But they will never love my car as much as I do. And that makes a big differernce. It gives me a lot of self confidence to try something tougher each time. Additionally, in this case, I did not fancy the idea of spending a full day at the ASC at this time when The Virus (respect!) is lurking around every corner. I must admit, living in flats is a huge hindrance as far as DIY for your car is concerned.

So lets get to the actual process of installing the snorkel. It is a tough job for one person, as I realised. But it can be done because I did it all by myself, in my apartment parking lot. Some parts of the process is tough to do alone.

What tools and other stuff do you need to get the job done?

The kit comes with everything that you need as far as the stuff that goes on the car is concerned. All the parts are neatly packed with their respective nuts and bolts. There is an instruction manual (a very crude one with not so good sketches) that is very helpful. I watched a few videos before attempting the job and discussed a few things with people who had gotten it installed earlier. Mainly fellow Bhpians A.G. and Mu009. That was very helpful.

The previous night was spent on identifying each and every part and where it goes in the kit. I marked and identified a few of the more confusing bolts so there is no confusion after the point of no return. The only part I was concerned about was drilling the outer shell, the sub frame and most importantly, the roof. That was the most intimidating part because you have to be very sure when you drill the metal. There is no second chance. Anyway, as I learnt later, I only had to drill 2 holes and not 3.

These are the tools and other stuff you will need for the job.

1. 6mm to 15mm box spanner set with extension rod. Ratchet type is preferred and is a good tool to have for all things automotive.
2. T25 and T20 torx key.
3. 5mm allen (hexagonal) key.
4. Rivet gun. Jugaad will not work. You need this. This, and the silicon sealant are the only things I had to buy for this job.
5. A fairly large minus screw driver.
6. Cordless drill. Corded is fine if you have access to a power source.
7. 5mm and 9mm metal drill bit.
8. Trim and cladding removal tool kit. This is another good tool to have. Helps in removing claddings, trims and plastic rivets without scratching or breaking them.
9. Good quality silicon sealant. I used roofing grade silicon sealant from Dr.Fixit (available at most hardware stores)
10. General purpose grease.
11. Paint. Only a tiny bit. Only to protect the metal after drilling holes. I used Rustoleum spray primer. White spray paint and Rustoleum enamel protective coat. I had them left over from earlier DIYs. Spray paints dry much quicker and you dont have to wait for long for the paint to dry either for the next coat or for work.
12. A few earbuds to apply above paint.
13. A filing tool to file and smoothen the metal after drilling. I used a small round file and a rolled emery paper strip.
14. You will need the cars jack and wheel removal kit. Use another jack (beg/borrow/steal) or a big boulder as a back up, just in case the primary one fails. You have to work under the wheel well for a long time. Alternatively, you can place the removed wheel itself under the running board as a protective measure.
15. A torch. I prefer head mounted ones as they leave both your hands free.
16. A pair of gloves. Always good to wear a pair of gloves when you have to work both inside and outside the car at the same time. Prevents the interior from getting dirty. My gloves are dirty from inside, the ones with which I work on the interior.
17. Some rags. At least one microfibre cloth.
18. Cable ties. Not necessary. But helps at one point.
19. A dark coloured sketch pen which can mark on paint. To mark the drill points.
20. A ladder to stand and work on the roof.
21. A stool to sit and work under the wheelwell.
22. A wooden wedge. Something like a hammer handle will work.
23. A case of water or your favourite beverage (Tbhp rules do not allow me to mention 'the word' here).

Read the instruction manual and understand the procedure. I did not follow the steps mentioned in the manual in that order. There are a few videos on YouTube on snorkel installation for the Ranger, but none for the Everest or the Endeavour. Procedure is similar to the Ranger. But the fitting on the roof is different.

Once you have gone through the procedure, run it through your mind and form a mental picture of what to expect. Have all your tools ready, and you can start the job. Some people break a coconut for good luck before attempting something difficult. I didn't. Lord Ganesha was happy with me anyways. I can say that now. If something had gone wrong, I could have blamed it on the coconut I did not break!

[SCORPION]

The individual parts that form the snorkel kit:

1. A new airbox and DAD connector.


Airbox with the DAD connector fitted. Yet to apply sealant.


2. Snorkel body.
3. Rear intermediate tube.


4. Front intermediate tube


5. Bracket kit for the snorkel body.


6. Bracket kit for the roof.


7. Bracket for the front and rear intermediate tube.


All the bolts, flat washers, spring washers, rivets, hose clips etc are part of the kit and all you need are the tools mentioned in the previous post.

[SCORPION]

Now for the actual procedure of installing the snorkel.

The toughest part of the install is to partly remove the roof rail and drill the roof to fix the roof clamp. If that cannot be done, the entire process becomes a failure. So that was the first thing I did.

The roof rail is secured with dome nuts from under the roof. The nuts are hidden below the roof lining. So the roof lining needs to be removed partly to access the nut. The driver side door frame rubber beading, grab handles on the roof and A-pillar, sun visor and the cladding on the A-pillar should be removed to allow you to work freely. I later realised, that the rubber seal around the right passenger door also needs to be removed to access a second dome nut for the roof rail so that there is enough gap under the roof rail to work.


To remove the grab handle on the roof, use a T25 torx key to remove these two torx head screws. The plastic cover can be pried open with the trim removal kit.



Remove the above three torx head screws with T20 torx key to remove the sun visor. The plastic covers for the roof can be pried open.


Pry open the 2 plastic covers and remove these two screws (I think a size 6 box spanner socket) on the A-pillar grab handle.


After removing the grab handle, use the trim removal kit to slowly and carefully pry open the A-pillar cladding.


After removing the grab handles and the sunvisor, remove the dome nut securing the roof rail using a size 10 box socket. Then remove the dome nut just behind the B-pillar and pull out the roof rail. Do not use too much force since there are more screws holding it in place further aft.


Use a hammer handle as a wedge so you can work freely. The location of the second bolt secruing the roof rail can be seen just behind the hammer handle.

Once this is done, remove the original air box. This is a fairly simple procedure.


Remove these 2 screws and pull out the air intake cowl.


Gently pull out the red tab and remove the connector for the MAF sensor.


Remove this bolt in the front of the air box.


Remove this bolt behind the air box. These are the only 2 screws securing the airbox in the engine bay.


Loosen the hose clip and remove the air hose. There is another hose which is secured with a clip on the side of the airbox which also needs to be unclipped. Do not try to remove the clip from the airbox. Unclasp the clip and release the hose. Then the airbox can be pulled out. Remove this clip and install it in the new airbox. Once the airbox is out, remove the rubber grommet through which the front intermediate tube will be connected to the DAD connector.


Old airbox removed.

Reverse the procedure and install the new airbox with the DAD connector inserted into the hole where the rubber grommet was. The clips for securing the airbox lid needs to be installed in the air box. They are in a separate pack. Snap them into place. Bolt the airbox in place, connect the air hose and secure the other hose with the clip. Reconnect the MAF sensor cable and replace the 2 bolts that used to secure the old air intake cowl. Done. New airbox in place.

[SCORPION]

Once the airbox was replaced with the new one, I went ahead and jacked her up and removed the front right wheel. All the work that needs to be done is behind the fender. Once the wheel is removed, the next process is very annoying. Removing the plastic rivet screw type pin fasteners is a royal pain in the neck. And there are about 11 or 12 of them. They are the type which you have to unscrew partly before you can pull the rivet out. Takes a lot of patience because some of the screws just turn in place without moving out. If you try to manhandle them, they will break. These things are difficult to purchase especially during these times. So take a deep breath and relax. Use the plastic trim removal tool to hold them tightly with an outward pull and then unscrew and eventually the screw will slowly start coming out. About half of the tough ones are enough to make you bang your head on the nearest wall. But eventually they all come out and its a huge relief. There is a sensor in the front portion of the fender which needs to be disconnected before the fender can be completely removed.


Wheel well cladding removed. Remove the sensor connector marked with a circle in the picture above before removing the cladding.

Remove the foam insert (probably sound deadening material) behind the fender, shown in the picture below. Do not try to yank it off bceause it can tear apart. After removing the foam remove the fender grill insert by pressing the clips inside the fender.



Grill insert and foam removed.

Once this is done, the actual process of snorkel installation begins.

The last page of the instruction booklet has a template to drill a hole on the fender. Carefully cut it along the edges. Place the template on the opening and mark the spot to drill. Take utmost care. You get only one chance.

Mark the spot to drill with a sketch pen.


Drill a 5mm hole. The other hole has already been drilled. Wonder why they couldn't just drill this hole too at the factory. Would have saved me so much trouble. Must send an email to the guys at Ford.


File the edges and smoothen the rough edges with a file and emery paper. The snorkel body bracket which is to be riveted behind the fender may also need a drilling as the paint prevents the rivets from sliding in. Once the drilling is done. Apply the primer, then the normal paint and a rust prevention coat. Wait for a while between each coat. Do not spray directly on the hole as it will spray everywhere and spoil the paint work. Spray it into the lid of the spray can and then use a earbud to apply the paint.


Apply paint with an earbud.


Snorkel body bracket holes painted. This takes about an hour as you have to wait in between coats.

Then place the snorkel body bracket behind the fender and align the holes. Once aligned perfectly, use the rivets to fit the bracket in place.


Snorkel body bracket riveted in place.


The snorkel body comes with a foam gasket to prevent vibrations and scratches. This needs to be peeled and stuck on the portion of the snorkel that touches the fender. That is fairly easy and I do not have a snap of the gasket.

Clean the fender area thoroughly. I use a waterless wash. Once this is done, place the snorkel and align it to the bracket. Use the 3 M8 hex head bolts to loosely secure the snorkel body to the bracket. Do not tighten them yet because the toughest part of aligning the snorkel and fitting the roof bracket still remains. This part of the job is tough to do alone. But it can be done.


Now begins the most intimidating part of the install. But God was very kind. Read on to find out why.

The roof kit comes with 2 brackets. Thank God (and the same guys at Ford who will get my email) for small mercies. 2 brackets are provided in the kit. One bracket is for the flush fitting roof rail of the Endeavour and the other bracket is for the raised roof rail for the Ranger ute. See, Ford needn't have given the second bracket, but they did. Thank you Ford. Because I used the Ranger bracket. There was a bit of confusion on this one. Because some of the ASCs drilled the roof for the install while some didn't. I decided to take a call once I actually start the work.


The above picture was shared by BHPian A.G. In the picture, the one above is for a raised roof rail like in the Ranger. The holes are aligned to the two bolts secruing the front portion of the raised roof rail and all you need to do is to slide the bracket into the bolts and secure the roof rail.

For the Endeavour, unfortunately, Ford says, use the bottom bracket. It is meant to be fitted like how it is shown in the below picture, again shared by A.G., taken during his snorket install.


A hole needs to be drilled for the bolt to pass through the roof and it is to be bolted from below using a dome nut similar to how the roof rail is bolted. Very sturdy fit I would say. The plastic bush in front of the bracket will need some trimming for the bracket to fit. The bracket is bolted to the roof rail with the small countersunk screw you can see in the picture. I was not very comfortable drilling a hole in the roof. Mainly worried about rain water entry, and rust. The fact that some of the ASCs had installed it without drilling the hole was playing on my mind. To add to it, I had watched a snorkel install on a Jeep Wrangler where the top bracket of the snorkel was stuck on the A pillar with just double sided tape!

So I decided to check how sturdy the fit is with the Ranger clamp, before I drilled a hole. I discovered that the clamp fits snugly between the stud and the plastic bush shown in the above picture, and once the roof rail is fitted in place, the clamp doesn't budge. This was very reassuring, and I did not drill the roof. The kit comes with a gasket with glue on both sides for the bracket. Stick the gasket to the bracket. But do not remove the film on the other side yet because the snorkel needs to be aligned properly before the final fixing. Make sure the rubber beading on the driver door does not foul with the snorkel. Open and shut the door and check while aligning the snorkel. Once you are happy, stick the clamp to the roof channel and bolt the clamp to the snorkel with the bolt and washers provided. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of the bracket in the roof channel, becaue I was too happy I didnt have to drill and missed taking a picture.


Aligning the snorkel ensuring adequate gap for the door to open without the rubber beading on the door fouling with it. Once you are happy with the alignment, tighten all the bolts just as much as is required to hold the snorkel in place without it moving.

Once the above is done and you are happy with the alignment, you can go ahead and tighten the hex bolts behind the bracket on the fender. Remove one bolt at a time. Apply GP grease and screw the bolt back on. Tighten a bit and then remove the next one. Once all three are greased, tighten all of them. Now you might ask me why I didn't grease them in the first place. I don't have an answer to that. Doesn't mean you shouldn't. Learn from others' mistakes. The manual recommends torque values, but I do not have a torque wrench. The roof bracket can then be tightened and the roof rail inserted back in place.

Snorkel secured with the roof bracket.



Then install the foam insert back in place behind the fender. This takes some effort. But the foam needs to go back in place.

[SCORPION]

Next process is to install the front and rear tubes. The front tube connects to the DAD connector on the airbox. The rear tube connects to the front tube and to the snorkel. Clamps are provided for both the tubes. You need to drill a hole for securing the rear tube bracket. The front tube bracket can be bolted to a pre existing threaded hole. I used a cable tie to temporaily hold the front tube in place and then attached it to the rear tube. Then attached the rear tube to the snorkel. This part is only to align all the tubes and mark the location to drill the 9mm hole for securing the rear tube.


Front tube temporarily secured and bolted for aligning the rear tube to mark the hole for drilling. (apologies for the poor clicks and for the lack of better pics)


Drill a hole for the rear tube and paint the drilled area after cleaning.

Once the hole is marked. Remove both the tubes. Both the connection to the airbox and the snorkel are just slide in type. Therefore, apply a liberal amount of the silicon sealant on all the connections and slide them back into place. Tighten the hose clip connecting the front and rear tubes. Then tighten the bolts for the bracket. Do not forget to use the supplied spring washers. Apply grease to the bolts before tightening them. Once everything is tightened, check if everything is secure.


Front and rear tube attached with silicon sealant and hose clip. Apologies for these poor clicks. I do not have better pictures. Was pretty tired by then and did not take proper pictures. These are screenshots from a video I took.


Rear tube attached to the snorkel and front tube. Bracket bolt tightened.


Front tube bracket tightened. I decided to leave the cable tie in place.

Ensure all the fittings are tight and secure. Double check. Because its a pain removing all these things again, if you have to because of you were careless.

Job done. You can start putting everything back together.
1. Start with the wheel cladding. Connect the sensor back and refit the cladding with the plastic rivets.
2. Mount the tyre back in place. After working continuously for a few hours, the 285/60 R18 tyre and alloy feel like it weighs a ton. Had a tough time lifting it and slotting the alloy into the studs. Tighten the bolts and relieve the jack of its duties. Tighten the wheel studs to max.
3. Next tighten both the roof rail dome nuts. Give the top of the snorkel a fairly good yank and smile when you realise it is a sturdy fit. Cry if it is shaky. Jokes apart, it is extremely sturdy.
4. Fit the A-pillar cladding, grab handles and the sun visor back in place.
5. Refit the rubber beadings on the door frame after tucking the roof liner in.
6. Start the car and feel the snorkel sucking in air. Listen to the roar. Smile.

Grab handles, sun visor and beadings back in place.




Job done. If you have nuts and rivets left behind, be proud that you fitted everything back with less number of bolts and rivets than the engineers at Ford could. Or keep scratching your head wondering where they should have gone. I surprisingly had none left behind this time.

Total time taken. Just under 7 hours. With breakfast break and paint drying time included.

Go for a drive. Listen to any abnormal noises. Make 2 passes though the same path. The second very slowly, with your eyes glued to the road. Pick up any parts that may have fallen apart from your install. Swallow your pride, pick it up and refit.

I have been very busy with work post the install and haven't really done a proper test drive. But the short drives at part throttle and the growl and snarls from the snorkel has been quite addictive. Yes, the snorkel makes a difference. I can feel the Endy breathing more easily even at city speeds and an improvement in the already remapped engine.

I am 'extremely happy' with the performance of my car now. Until the next updrade.

If you have reached this far, I must thank you for being patient and reading through all this stuff. I must thank fellow Bhpians A.G., Mu009 and rovingeye for their help and encouragement to attempt this DIY. Probably the first DIY install of a snorkel kit on the new Endeavour. Thankyou guys!

Cheers!

[GTO]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the DIY Section. Thanks for sharing!

Going to the homepage today .

[Reinhard]

A great DIY & fantastic level of detail in documentation. Should be one of the best references to a DIY snorkel installation. Smart integration using the fender's existing panels to route the ducts by the designers of the product & you. Looks very well finished in the end too. Overall surgical procedures (drilling holes etc) are also very minimal & simple good paint will assure metal safety like you have done. Thanks for sharing!

[Hondaboy]

Love the job you have done Scorpion - has surely given the Endeavour a level of "grrr" which the aggressive stance of the car enhances so well.

Im based in Australia and here off roading is a really popular hobby, so lots of tonka toys on the streets. The Endeavour is sold here in pickup truck form - known as the Ranger or F-150. I drive one for work and its a beast.

Good luck with your future "endeavours" and thanks for sharing your work.

Cheers,

Hondaboy

[Moontan]

Brilliantly detailed. Ford should use this as the default installation manual, going forward, especially as you completed the install without drilling the roof. Well done.

[mallumowgli]

That's one exhausting build and an exhaustive report of the same

Looks great SCORPION.

And if only you could load the growl to this thread it would be awesome. Wishing you many miles of wading

[mohansrides]

Super job. Also appreciate the pain that you took to detail the procedure. I have a soft spot for big cars with big displacement engines. Finally, awesome sense of humour. I especially liked those lines about small birds in the air box; and about having a kind missus. Seriously, if my wife started to speak her mind about half the things I do, I think... well, I think things would be tough.

[rmonie]

Superb installation with detailed instruction! Love the dry humour! Finished job looks awesome!

[tanaysn]

Congrats on the DIY and must say a job done with finesse!

On the performance side, agreed the snorkels help wade through water bodies and might increase the wading depth. But on-road (especially at higher speeds), do you see a difference in the performance considering the bends in the snorkel, it would affect the flow uniformity of air fed to the air filter?

[SCORPION]

Originally Posted by mohansrides

Seriously, if my wife started to speak her mind about half the things I do, I think... well, I think things would be tough.

Hahaha. I can only imagine.

Originally Posted by mallumowgli

And if only you could load the growl to this thread it would be awesome.

Glad you like the growl.

Originally Posted by tanaysn

do you see a difference in the performance considering the bends in the snorkel, it would affect the flow uniformity of air fed to the air filter?

I had, and still have, these exact same questions in my mind. Apart from the 4 90 deg bends, the length of air inlet also increases 5 fold before reaching the airbox. We did have a discussion on this (we meaning, a few others who have the snorkel installed). Although there was no conclusive answer to this question, there is no taking away the fact that the snorkel does make a difference. So, probably, the cooler air, together with the RAM air effect, overcomes and suppresses the disadvantages of the bends and increased length.

I am no expert. But if some of the experts here can chip in, it would clear a few doubts.

[Arbind Ray]

Originally Posted by SCORPION

The growl and rumble...
...If something had gone wrong, I could have blamed it on the coconut I did not break!

You're definitely funny if you'd have written about A Day In The Life of a Scorpion I'd most probably have thoroughly enjoyed the read. Your anecdotes of 'Mrs Scorpion' made me smile...so thank you.

I have no plan to add a snorkel. But its good to note positive experiences when they do occur, especially when the enthusiasm of the 3.2 ride is shared. It's thrilling don't you think, when it hits that sweet spot at around 2000 rpms the way the Beast just accelerates as if in warp speed...easy to forget you're shifting two and a half tons!