[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

I found your thread to be very useful and I got a good deal of basic information regarding this kit after going through both your installataion threads.
Thanks for those detailed threads.

Thanks VinodDevil81 - glad you found the threads useful. Makes it worthwhile.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

Which brand is your ballasts in the Nexon's setup? I couldn't make out the name from the images even after zooming.
I had a chat with the Motorbasket seller and he told me that they are dealing with EB-5 brand fast-start ballasts now.
He sent me a photo too and the pic seems similar to the ballasts in your Nexon.That's why I thought about asking you.

Yes that's the one in my Nexon indeed. Black ones with EB-5 mentioned. Also - the build & finish on this one seems better than the other ones I have seen / used.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

Is it ok to go with EB-5 ballasts? Or should I specifically ask for some other brand ballasts? Do you have any recommendations?

All are more or less same actually. Since its all made in China and most of the times at same factories while just applying different stickers, there is little chance to patronize a particular brand. I have used these EB-5 black ballasts in Nexon & the blue CrystalEye branded ballasts in the Alto K10 (that thread will be more useful to you for a WagonR of course. Available here - link to thread (DIY - Maruti Alto K10 - HID Fog Light Installation)). Both ballasts have identical performance & no difference at all in results. I don't know if there is any difference in longevity since I have installed these kits less than year ago yet.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

I'm planning to go for the 4300K bulbs since I don't prefer too much white light.
From your experience so far, how do you rate the 55W Crystal Eye 4300K bulbs compared to similar brands?

I have used IPHCar & CrystalEye. Had taken CrystalEye simply going with the word of Rishi from Motorbasket. Had never heard of the brand before. But then - the results are fantastic. So no doubt. More or less like I mentioned above - there is hardly any difference between brands as all comes from mostly same factories in China.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

I had almost finalized the same IPH fog light kit from Blaze India. Didn't even know about MotorBasket Delhi back then.
But the reason I started to look elsewhere too, is because Blaze India doesn't give anything below 5500K which is too white for my preference.
Was it the same reason that you too preferred Motorbasket over Blaze india?

Yes at that time, but Blaze also can get 4300K depending on shipment schedules from their sourcing channels in China. Back when I tried - Blaze didn't have this readily & I would have had to wait. Found MotorBasket via a friend meanwhile & Rishi from MotorBasket even gave a better deal on the price. So it turned out far better overall.

Back then, we had ordered 3 kits for 3 Nexons (1 in Pune, 1 in Bengaluru & 1 in Patna) together. Since then, I have procured another 2 kits - one for the AltoK10 & one for my friend's Punto EVO (will be installing it on the coming weekend). And the experience and pricing has been always excellent. So I don't check elsewhere anymore.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

And also what is your overall feedback after a few months of usage regarding output consistency, water-resistance of the projectors etc.

Absolutely fantastic. These are the best bucks I have spent on any of my cars so far (and that mod list is quite long). Within 7K INR - the HID projector fog lights turn night into day. The safety quotient increases multifold & drive becomes very stress-free.

I have used the kit in both cars in extremely heavy rains for very long distances and through heavy water logging. The projectors, bulbs & ballasts have faced no issues. Ballasts generally don't have a big risk as long as they are mounted at good places anyway. The Projectors & bulbs have held fine. No water problems anywhere & the silicone washer at the base of the bulb does a good job of water proofing the projector housing.

I do (did before lockdown) 1-2 weekly drives to Mumbai for work. Returning always late night. These lights make a world of difference.
Certainly 4300K turns out far more effective in rains. I can tell it for a fact since my Nexon has 4300K and AltoK10 has 5500K. I can easily compare the experience.


I just got update from Rishi @MotorBasket that now they have gone fully online & have also setup a properly managed website.

www.MotorBasket.Com

Catalog is well maintained & I found the ordering process very simple. I ordered 7D floor mat set for the Nexon over weekend. Payment gateway integration is really well done - especially if you use UPI, it takes less than 10 seconds to complete payment. Not a single button click needed on the screen to complete payment. Neat.

[VinodDevil81]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Thanks VinodDevil81 - glad you found the threads useful. Makes it worthwhile.

Wow..that was a really detailed post answering each one of my questions in depth, without even missing the minute aspects.
Thank you so much, Reinhard!

So I have ordered the kit from Motorbasket today, and opted for 4300K bulbs itself.
The seller was very helpful and patiently answered all my queries through whatsapp chat, without any hesitation.

He even gave me a coupon code for this purchase as a welcome offer for the newly launched website.
That was also a pleasant surprise!
He also clarified that the crystal-eye bulb's base won't need filing or cutting now, as the issue has been addressed in the newer models.

Thank you so much for helping me to make a decision.
Will update you once the package arrives & I finish the installation.

[VinodDevil81]

Hi Reinhard...Sorry for the late update.
I had received the lights almost 3 weeks ago, but couldn't carry out the installation at that time due to lack of free time.
I was waiting for one full free day when both me and the car would be free of any other duties, so that I can completely concentrate and enjoy the DIY.
That's why it took so long, and finally last saturday was that day.

With all the inputs and guidelines from your thread, I successfully finished the installation without much troubles.
And the output is simply awesome!
It is powerful than my headlights now.(both high and low beams.)
And FYI, my headlight bulbs are Philips Rally 130/100 W.
Still, it easily manages to outperform my headlights.
Overall I am totally satisfied with the results.
Infact, these lights have exceeded my expectations.
Cut-off lines are sharp and well-defined, and color temperature also matches with that of my headlight.
I'm Sorry that I haven't taken any pictures of the installation or final output, but you have already taken care of that above in the most detailed manner.

Also, Mr. Rishi was very helpful and prompt in responding to any queries.
The package was neatly arranged and tightly packed, and everything worked flawlessly out-of-the-box.
The 3M double-sided tapes to securely fix the ballasts were also included in the package, upon my request.
In addition I have also used cable-ties to give additional support to the ballasts.

Regarding a few minor issues that I faced during installation - one is that the crystal-eye bulb's base still needed filing to lock the bulb in position.
Though Rishi had said that the issue has been addressed, I found that it still needed filing.
It was not a big issue though, since you had already explained how to do it.

Second one is that the 4 allen-key type screws provided to fix the clamps to the projectors couldn't be used in my particular case.
These screw-heads protrude out a bit too much to the sides even after tightening it fully, and this protrusion on either sides was preventing the lights from correctly seating in its position inside WagonR's fog-lamp housing.
I could cut the plastic foglight housing assembly a bit to make way for this protrusion, but I felt that changing the screw-type itself would be a better idea.
So I searched my screw & bolt collection and found 4 matching screws from an old 32A DP switch, having the conventional minus type screw-head.
The thread length was also the same and they sat almost flush with the projector clamp's surface, with no protrusion. So the issue was solved.

Thank you once again for all the help and guidance!

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

With all the inputs and guidelines from your thread, I successfully finished the installation without much troubles.
And the output is simply awesome!

Excellent! Yes the output surely is worth all the money & time spent in the DIY. Great that you are happy with it & that I could help somewhat in the project via the thread.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

Also, Mr. Rishi was very helpful and prompt in responding to any queries.
The package was neatly arranged and tightly packed, and everything worked flawlessly out-of-the-box.

Yes he is quick in updates & communications. The clean online payment is what gives me the most satisfaction in the transactions. I'm fine to spend a bit more as long as its clean traceable transactions.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

Regarding a few minor issues that I faced during installation - one is that the crystal-eye bulb's base still needed filing to lock the bulb in position.
Though Rishi had said that the issue has been addressed, I found that it still needed filing.
It was not a big issue though, since you had already explained how to do it.

Yes - the fitment really depends on the shipment received from China. Some batches fit excellent, some need filing (which is fine too, ensures a tight fit) & in some cases the bulb actually fits just about tight. Moves even with a gentle finger push. This happened in case of my Alto - so I used a simple silicone sealant over the rim to keep it supported in the long run.

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

Second one is that the 4 allen-key type screws provided to fix the clamps to the projectors couldn't be used in my particular case.
These screw-heads protrude out a bit too much to the sides even after tightening it fully, and this protrusion on either sides was preventing the lights from correctly seating in its position inside WagonR's fog-lamp housing.
I could cut the plastic foglight housing assembly a bit to make way for this protrusion, but I felt that changing the screw-type itself would be a better idea.

Great that you could find matching screws with the right thread standard. I had the exact same issue with the Alto's bumper housing - and I simply cut away a small semi circle in the bumper to make room for the screw. Since the projector/screw threads are quite sharp, soft metal and small, I din't have too much confidence to try a few different screws risking damaging the housing threads.

I hope the pandemic subsides soon & you can enjoy the new illuminated & enjoyable drives. Take care!

[geekyengineer]

[quote=Reinhard;4684019]The Wiring

High beam hick-up!
As I mentioned earlier, there is a bit of a downer in how the high beam is driven by the relay harness.

• My expectation - the high beam wire from the H4 connector only powers the solenoid tick-tock to move the cut-off plate inside the projector. This way I have to just tap that wire to the fuse for stock high beam.
• Reality - the high beam wire when powered actually triggers the solenoid AND also powers the ballast & triggers the bulbs!
• This way, if I use the high-beam flash just when passing etc, the HIDs will also trigger ON-OFF frequently. Something we don't want to do to HIDs for their health.

Reinhard,

Thanks for such a detailed write up. This has inspired me to try the same on my 2013 Chevrolet Sail. My car model doesnt have fog lamps at present. I have ordered the Taochis Fog lamps, HID bulbs+Ballasts & Wiring harness kit from the Alibaba and awaiting delivery.

Taking inspiration from your post, I have ordered 2 channel bluetooth relay. I have an android head unit installed in the car and expect to use the relay along with the same. However this is aspirational.

Say in case if I need to tap it from the Headlight high beam, my understanding is that the solenoid wires just powers the solenoids and not the HID fog lamps so even when I flip the HIGH momentarily anytime, it would just power the solenoid and not the HID lamps or Ballasts. Can you confirm?

Also I have downloaded below diagrams from product pages on Alibaba and Aliexpress for the fog lamp connection and relay connection. From the wiring harness, I intend to replace the switch wires into the bluetooth relay and also the High beam for HID. So the common connection of the bluetooth relay will have 12V tapped from fuse for both relays and I will use one relay for low beam ON/OFF and other relay for high beam ON/OFF. Can you help to confirm that technically this will work?


Link1:

[Reinhard]

Happy to know you found the project useful. Good luck with yours.

Originally Posted by geekyengineer

Say in case if I need to tap it from the Headlight high beam, my understanding is that the solenoid wires just powers the solenoids and not the HID fog lamps so even when I flip the HIGH momentarily anytime, it would just power the solenoid and not the HID lamps or Ballasts. Can you confirm?

Yes - if you connect the 2 solenoid +ve wires to a high-beam wire (using a T/scotch tap) - when you flash the high beam for passing etc - only the solenoids will click. Ballasts / bulbs will not get power.

Originally Posted by geekyengineer

Also I have downloaded below diagrams from product pages on Alibaba and Aliexpress for the fog lamp connection and relay connection. From the wiring harness, I intend to replace the switch wires into the bluetooth relay and also the High beam for HID. So the common connection of the bluetooth relay will have 12V tapped from fuse for both relays and I will use one relay for low beam ON/OFF and other relay for high beam ON/OFF. Can you help to confirm that technically this will work?

To be honest - I didn't fully understand the other relay for high beam. For high beam you don't need a relay at all. Simply tap the wires as they are - into the wires for the high beam of the bulb. Or does your car have an H4 setup with the high beam +ve wire always getting power with a negative switching? In that case - install a simple relay to cut-out that power yes. But no need to piggy back that onto the Bluetooth module's COM as such. You can if you want to. I have a similar issue in the Alto K10. There I have added a small 12V relay cut-out for this purpose, specifically for the high-beam solenoid wiring. You'll find that information in my Alto K10 fog lights thread. I'm sharing the link for the specific post here -

Link : Post with additional high beam relay information (DIY - Maruti Alto K10 - HID Fog Light Installation)

If your car has H4 with positive switch - the high beam wire would not get power all time & you can simply tap into it. Check once before adding an extra relay for it.

[geekyengineer]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

To be honest - I didn't fully understand the other relay for high beam. For high beam you don't need a relay at all. Simply tap the wires as they are - into the wires for the high beam of the bulb.

My car has H4 headlight lamps. The reason for adding an additional relay is that I dont want to tap the H4 high beam wire. This way I can independently power the HID high beams basis my choice.

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by geekyengineer

My car has H4 headlight lamps. The reason for adding an additional relay is that I dont want to tap the H4 high beam wire. This way I can independently power the HID high beams basis my choice.

Oh ok. Simply two different switches. Then yes - you can work with the twin relay.

On a different topic - I hope you really feel the Bluetooth implementation is the right one for your usage pattern. In the Alto I have installed a physical switch & I find it very convenient. For the Nexon I have the Bluetooth module & i find it good enough too - especially since I was interested in implementing something a bit crazy . In case you will be needing the fog lights often - I suggest you use a physical switch.

For high beams especially it would be better to have a physical switch or wire tap. Reason is simple - high beams we generally activate while we are already driving. Using a bluetooth controlling app while on the move - isn't exactly the safest option. I stop at the side to turn on the fog lights OR turn them on before starting the drive if its already dark. I don't try to look at the mobile to switch them on while driving. (As an option - I'm thinking of working out an app / widget & port it into Android Auto. This way - I can get the fog light toggle switch onto the head unit screen. That would be best! The idea is still in the imagination. Nothing concrete for it. In case you find a solution for a widget - I can help you port it into Android Auto (with a rooted phone of course).)

[geekyengineer]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

For high beams especially it would be better to have a physical switch or wire tap. Reason is simple - high beams we generally activate while we are already driving. Using a bluetooth controlling app while on the move - isn't exactly the safest option. I stop at the side to turn on the fog lights OR turn them on before starting the drive if its already dark. I don't try to look at the mobile to switch them on while driving. (As an option - I'm thinking of working out an app / widget & port it into Android Auto. This way - I can get the fog light toggle switch onto the head unit screen. That would be best! The idea is still in the imagination. Nothing concrete for it. In case you find a solution for a widget - I can help you port it into Android Auto (with a rooted phone of course).)

I mostly drive within city with occasional highway trips. The reason for the HID upgrade is that the stock headlights were poor and after 7 years of life, their alignment is totally gone and I dont intend to use any 100/90 relay for those. The HID along with relay is for a simple reason that I dont need to splice any stock wires.

The relay is first step process to fit in the things. Obviously nothing better than a physical switch but in my case Chevrolet doesn't have a modular switch panel like Suzuki on driver's RHS side and basis the success I plan to move to a two switch approach. One for Low beam and other for high beam.

[Benoit]

Hello Reinhard. Your posts serve as a guide to tata owners looking to upgrade headlamp bulbs. I have a few doubts. I am looking to upgrade to HID on my Altroz XZ D for both low beam(projector) and high beam. I am not really confident enough for DIY, so i have spotted a car accessories shop who have really good experience with head light upgrades. They sell Lumax 55W bulbs. I hope they do the job well. I plan to use it for both low and high beams. Coming to the doubts, when we flick the stalk for the passing lights frequently, does the high beam HID bulbs get affected? Do you recommend LED? Also, owing to the cornering functionality, if I upgrade them to LED, would that still affect the LED bulbs when they turn on and off frequently?

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by Benoit

Hello Reinhard. Your posts serve as a guide to tata owners looking to upgrade headlamp bulbs. I have a few doubts. I am looking to upgrade to HID on my Altroz XZ D for both low beam(projector) and high beam. I am not really confident enough for DIY, so i have spotted a car accessories shop who have really good experience with head light upgrades. They sell Lumax 55W bulbs. I hope they do the job well. I plan to use it for both low and high beams. Coming to the doubts, when we flick the stalk for the passing lights frequently, does the high beam HID bulbs get affected? Do you recommend LED? Also, owing to the cornering functionality, if I upgrade them to LED, would that still affect the LED bulbs when they turn on and off frequently?

Hi Benoit. So here are some thoughts for your query -

• Do not install HID bulbs in high beams. Yes - the pass-flash will harm the bulbs as well as the relay & ballasts. It will shorten life. There is a high power surge drawn every time an HID needs to be ignited. (Voltages in KV!). And in that fraction of a second the bulb doesn't get useful intensity output either.
• HIDs are best suited in projectors OR reflectors that are specifically made for HIDs. Since our reflectors are made for halogens - the beam throw from an HID really scatters a lot & blinds oncoming traffic. Don't go for this option.
• LEDs are a better option for high beam if your primary intent is pass/warning flash. These quick firing lights are very effective. For actual useful long throw illumination - you need to spend time to find the right LED that has good power + has the chips at exact height as the filament in the halogen bulb - for perfect focus match.
• Lumax HID I have no experience with. I have used CrystalEye, Osram & GS. All good. For installation in low beam projector of your Altroz (I assume yours has projectors) - the conversion to HID is hardly a 30 minute DIY job. Give it a try. I have detailed the procedure for headlamp conversion in this thread - Nexon Osram HID (DIY - Tata Nexon XZ+ - Osram 35W HID conversion kit). (Those got eaten by rats & I have replaced with 55W GS bulbs now).
• Currently BlazeIndia has stock of 4300K GS HIDs from Taiwan. I have installed those in the low beam headlamp of my Nexon & they are fantastic. I suspect you might have seen that post already (in my ownership thread). You might want to source that kit & get it installed from your accessory store if DIY isn't too comfortable for you. They shouldn't charge anything above 500 tops for this installation.

[Benoit]

Thanks for your useful response.

Originally Posted by Reinhard

For actual useful long throw illumination - you need to spend time to find the right LED that has good power + has the chips at exact height

My usage is 95% highways and i will use high beams extensively. So I will use LED bulbs for high beams. For fog lamps, i will stick to the halogen bulbs for now and if required, will change it to LED later.

Originally Posted by Reinhard

the conversion to HID is hardly a 30 minute DIY job. Give it a try.
I suspect you might have seen that post already.

I will read through the DIY again and think it over. And, i have read almost all the posts about your Ironhide.

Also, i missed to ask one more thing. How is the heat with the new 55W HID bulbs? Will it not damage the glass? Some youtubers recommend only 35W HID due to the heat factor.

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by Benoit

Also, i missed to ask one more thing. How is the heat with the new 55W HID bulbs? Will it not damage the glass? Some Youtubers recommend only 35W HID due to the heat factor.

Absolutely - I had this doubt too & thats why I had gone for 35W originally (and to reduce overall consumption from battery/alternator).

I have done 2-3 drives in the night with 2 hour duration now - and specifically checked how hot the overall assembly is from lens side as well as from the back around the dust cap). And as a pleasant surprise - the light assembly stays COOLER than the 55W stock halogens that come with the car. And the difference in heat compared to 35W bulbs is minimal. I see zero risk to the headlamps since its anyway far cooler than the halogens. I have read at multiple places over the years in a "wattage:wattage" comparison - HIDs run cooler to their halogen peers.

I drive a lot over the highways too - and yet I have a serious mind-block to using high-beams. And thats why I have been on this quest of really good low beams in the headlamps + fog lamps. Finally I think I have reached my goal.

Also - in case you go the DIY route & need any help, don't hesitate in reaching out. I'll be happy to help.

[Torq]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

In this DIY we'll look at removing the stock fog lamps & installing projectors with HID bulbs. While a Nexon is the test-bed here, the project can be used as a reference for ANY CAR with circular fog lamp housings that can accept a 2.5 or 3 inch HID projector unit.
.

Thanks so much Reinhard for your WhatsApp and call support! I could successfully complete a partial DIY as well as a bit of troubleshooting and have an awesome light setup now.
FYI I have used IPH projector lens coupled with GS bi-xenon bulbs with a relay on a Tata Tiago XZ 2017 model.

The entire thing was plug and play, except for a small bit of jugaad while placing the housing inside the bumper. Tiago 2017 model doesn't come with four screws on four corners as is the norm, but rather a screw at the top and one at the bottom with a separate plastic housing encasing the stock fog lamp. The guys at car cupid, Pashan drilled two holes and fit the projector inside. Although their other work was a bit shoddy, will have to clear and correct a few things myself at a later date. They couldn't manage to get the high/low beam working as well, wherein Reinhard suggested a few more things and got it working.
Mr Amit Sawhney, from Blaze India, was constantly available for all queries and concerns and helped me throughout.
Thanks again Reinhard, and team bhp for all the available knowledge.

[Reinhard]

So, after nearly a couple of years, with the gimmicky Bluetooth relay enabled wireless (via mobile) control for the fog lights - shifted to a more conventional implementation. Built up sufficient courage to make that tiny 2 pixel hole in the firewall grommet to run the wire from engine bay into the cabin. (The hole has been since sealed with silicone sealant.)

The switches used - Amazon.in Product listing - 4 pin illuminated 12V35A-DC toggle switch.
The switches are of acceptable quality. Nothing out of the world. Rather costly for what they offer. But the easy home delivery and dearth of options meant I picked these for convenience!

Removed this BT relay and associated wiring via a fuse tap in the engine bay.




Carefully took out this bezel near the right knee of driver position, above cabin fuse box lid. (Interestingly - this part is formally named as switch bezel in TML spares inventory, so its intended to be used for this purpose!) Needs to be carefully done with a proper trim remover kit. The clips are remarkably strong!




Used simple drill and cut with paper cutter technique to make sufficiently sized rectangle in the bezel.




Inserted the button into position till click locks fastened. Completed the wiring. (It needs a 12V supply and separate ground connection for the switch's LED to work. Otherwise a simple 2 pin switch will do.)






Powered the switch with the ACC fuse in the cabin fuse box. Connected the wire of the fog light relay (that came from the engine bay with the LOAD side +ve pin of the switch (NC in relay terminologies). Connected the ground wire into fuse box base plate. And fixed the bezel firmly back into place. I have covered the 1 unused pin (load side ground pin) with a longer shrink tube, shrunk snug. To ensure the pin is fully insulated and doesn't cause any long term mishaps.




Now its a seamless (and mundane!) functionality. No need to stop by the side to turn on the lights. Can just flick the switch for operation while driving. Ergonomically placed too. But yeah - I lost one big conversation starter and geeky bit from the car with this.

The 2nd switch is for another set of LED flasher lights that I have basically installed as a guard in front of the badly exposed intercooler up-front. Used the actual lights only twice (for testing in parking) so far.

Have intentionally left free space on the bezel. One fine day I guess I will decide to install an amplifier and sub-woofer. The bezel can then easily host a power ON-OFF switch for the amplifier along with a rotor for gain/bass control. Ah the endless wish-list.