[varunsangal]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Surface Rust removal: Soak the area in vinegar

Primer: I use Liqui Moly ZInc primer. Available on Amazon, or I can give you the contact details of the distributor if you need it.

You may paint it after priming.

Many thanks Leoshashi for posting the details. Will try the vinegar, primer and paint for the rusted area and only primer and paint for the other areas.

Re the Liqui Moly Zinc primer, is the price on Amazon vs dealer price any different?
The Amazon product Liqui Moly 1640 Gloss Zinc Spray (400 ml) looks a bit different from the picture you posted above.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by varunsangal

Re the Liqui Moly Zinc primer, is the price on Amazon vs dealer price any different?

Yes. I get it for around 800 rupees IIRC. Also I buy these things in bulk, like pack of 6, since being an old car owner, I need to have these things in ready stock.

looks a bit different from the picture you posted above

Both are same. Amazon has picked up images from online sources.

[varunsangal]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Yes. I get it for around 800 rupees IIRC. Also I buy these things in bulk, like pack of 6, since being an old car owner, I need to have these things in ready stock.

Quite a price difference then. Can you please share the dealer's details. Asking here instead of PM, so that the details are available to others who need it.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by varunsangal

Quite a price difference then. Can you please share the dealer's details. Asking here instead of PM, so that the details are available to others who need it.

There you go, please click this link: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post4327858

[//HB]

Originally Posted by varunsangal

Will let Leoshashi comment on the finer points of effectiveness, but would think that any silencer spray would either be black and thick coating, or at least non-appealing visually, while the zinc spray should not spoil the visual appeal.

Agree (partially) though the visual appeal part of it may not apply. Let me elaborate a little on what I had in mind when asking this. I'm going with the thought that the rusting (if it hasn't created holes in the metal, to the extent seen on your old car) then maybe I can follow Leoshashi's advice on removing the rust by vinegar soaking, and then put the silencer coating directly on that.

Now to address the visual appeal aspect - since the part in question is anyway completely out of sight, I wanted to explore the effectiveness of using the silencer coating spray (also somewhat in line with Leoshashi's comment about the thicker coat from the bitumin product being a maybe a little more protective).

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by //HB

removing the rust by vinegar soaking

Some videos which I feel are important for the ongoing discussion

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EuIa8h4d0RY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlcL_vHODkc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=872FDKzIZuk

Some people also claim Coke to be an effective rust remover, but Vinegar works better IMO. If someone has had better results with Coke,or other methods, please feel free to pour your thoughts in.

Regards,
Shashi

[condor]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Yes the cowl is always a potential rust bucket in any car, due to its open yet hidden nature.

Yes, the City is not the only one. My BiL's DZire was the example I encountered. We accidentally discovered this, and when we opened the plastic panel above the cowl, we found such a badly rusted panel that we had to use a gas torch to tear it away. The replacement part was thankfully not very expensive, but we were glad to have found it. This car was not parked outside / below trees that much, but I guess 7 years of not cleaning this area did take a toll.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by condor

Yes, the City is not the only one. My BiL's DZire was the example I encountered. We accidentally discovered this, and when we opened the plastic panel above the cowl, we found such a badly rusted panel that we had to use a gas torch to tear it away. The replacement part was thankfully not very expensive, but we were glad to have found it. This car was not parked outside / below trees that much, but I guess 7 years of not cleaning this area did take a toll.

Ironically, in my case it was in my 800. The car which is pampered the most in my house. Reason was, due to its sealed box section, rats had accumulated crap inside, which got stuck against the fresh air wall on one side, and that retained moisture for extended period. It completely rusted after 16 years of ownership. Thankfully it was just the wall and not the cowl itself.

Almost all workshops recommended replacing the cowl, but thankfully my MASS wasn't in favour of doing such a major work, which can damage the chassis dimensions too if not done properly. Rather they just removed the damaged part, made a similar shape using sheet metal, and welded it back. Easier said than done. Rust proofing later on was done completely using Zinc spray, epoxy primer etc.

When the car was in workshop, I also got all box sections washed, dried and coated. I was monitoring the steps with endoscope camera, which gave me eyes on hidden places ( the reason why this entire episode happened)













More details here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post4107602

[lemedico]

This is great help! I have the old Jazz (2009) and occasionally I spot water in the front passenger footwell. It seemed to be a door beading defect but this cowl cleaning is something I must do immediately. The City and Jazz are very similar so I suppose your instructions would match what I'll need to do on my car

[prithm]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

That third from left is the Bitumin I was talking about.

I am in the process of getting one underbody touch up done along with silencer coating.

Which is a good silencer coating (Aluminum or Zinc sprays) ?

I am already a long term user of Tufkote products and planning to get the Converust done first on the exhaust pipes and then coat the entire plumbing with rust inhibitor spray or paint.

Just cannot decide on what will be right for surface that experiences extremes of temperature ?

[//HB]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Some videos which I feel are important for the ongoing discussion

Many thanks, Shashi! These were great help in seeing firsthand the results. These guys seemed to use mix of vinegar and water, what has been your experience ? Is it ok to use only vinegar without dilution, or you have also used the diluted mix ?

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Ironically, in my case it was in my 800.

The third pic from top shows the guy welding directly below the windscreen, and that's kind of similar location where i saw the rusting in my City. As such, did the welding adversely affect the windscreen silicon / beading or anything ?

[varunsangal]

Originally Posted by lemedico

...I have the old Jazz (2009) and occasionally I spot water in the front passenger footwell. It seemed to be a door beading defect but this cowl cleaning is something I must do immediately. The City and Jazz are very similar so I suppose your instructions would match what I'll need to do on my car

Normally the door beading does not go bust, it is usually the area around the windscreen (wet roof lining) or bad cowl panel (water in footwell) in Honda City in my experience. Given Jazz is largely similar, the instructions should match. Do let me know how you get on.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by prithm

I am in the process of getting one underbody touch up done along with silencer coating.

Which is a good silencer coating (Aluminum or Zinc sprays) ?

I am already a long term user of Tufkote products and planning to get the Converust done first on the exhaust pipes and then coat the entire plumbing with rust inhibitor spray or paint.

Just cannot decide on what will be right for surface that experiences extremes of temperature ?

I have used just two products till date, hence, will comment only on that.

Exhaust 1:

Installed around: August 2010.
Coated around: June 2016
Removed around: September 2017

The first time, I used only 3M silencer coating(Price Rs. 290) on the exhaust, that too, after it had seen 6 years of usage. Just cleaned the exhaust while it was on car, and coated it. When I changed my exhaust (for upgrading it to something better), it had faded too much, with rust showing up at some places (which had rust earlier too).

Exhaust 2: Since it was a rare exhaust, I wanted to protect it as much as possible. Cleaned it with IPA, coated with Rustoleum Heat resistant primer first, then used 3M Silencer coat (price had increased to 5xx in 1 year ) and final layer IIRC was of Zinc Alu Spray. Although it has just been 6 months of usage, the coat is holding up much better and is as good as new. My conclusion is, the proper cleaning of 2nd exhaust and/or the primer helped in better adhesion of the paint.





Regards,
Shashi

[Slick]

Interesting thread,

I had to get my wagon R dash panel changed as the whole thing was falling apart.

Had I got the under cowl area cleared regularly it could have been avoided or delayed. Lots of leaves had got logged and rotted in the area when rain water drained.

It cost me around 18-22K to get it done.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post3482547

Check out the images in the post.

- Slick

[varunsangal]

Originally Posted by Slick

Had I got the under cowl area cleared regularly it could have been avoided or delayed. Lots of leaves had got logged and rotted in the area when rain water drained.

Given the number of responses, it is apparent that the cowl panel is a common weak spot for rusting. The primary cause is that the service centers do not clean it during servicing/washing. Having cleaned the cowl panel once, I realize it is easy enough to do on a regular basis, and better done by self. Other option is to open it during a jet wash at FNG.