[RocketRaccoon]

This is my first post at Team-BHP. While I would try my best to be as succint as possible, please feel free to add your own inputs and/or point out my mistakes (if any). I would request moderators to please move this topic to the appropriate thread if required.

Like any other year, the Delhi NCR region is burning up under the unapologetic summer sun. The temperatures make the NH8 resemble either a post apocalyptic Mad Max style dusty highway or a scorching road to hell. Consequently, air conditioners are running on Lo and blowing air full blast. If that wasn't enough, monsoon is coming (Game of Thrones reference )

In such a situation it becomes important to replace your cabin air filter at least once every summer season and make sure your wipers are in good shape. You could get this done from your ASC or spend 30 minutes and save money.

What follows is a pictorial guide on how to change cabin air filters and a broken rear wiper arm in a 2010 Hyundai i20 (CRDi). Level - Very Basic. Time - 30 minutes altogether.

Cabin Air Filter Replacement


i20's cabin air filter is under this black hatch under the co-passenger seat.


Use the tab at the bottom to pry open the plastic hatch.


The 2 filters are stacked on top of each other. Pull out the lower one, then the upper one. If you have a mesh filter like the one shown, do not throw them away, wash and reuse. If you have a paper filter dispose safely.


Make ready your new cabin filter. I bought this generic product at a local part store.


Before you insert your new filter check how they would go in. Usually there is a channel on the top or bottom so that you can figure out how to place them. Insert the one going on top first.


Push the filter that need to be at the top up and put in the second one (that needs to be at the bottom) Push filters back in place and put the plastic hatch back.

Notes - Mesh filters usually have an airflow direction mentioned on the side. Please ensure that you put them in according to those directions for proper air flow. Do not forget to turn the engine on and give the AC a go for 2 minutes.

Rear Wiper Arm Replacement


If you have a car with a rear wiper. I pretty sure you have come back to your car in a public parking lot to find this gift from vandals.


First unscrew the bolt that is attaching the arm to the wiper motor


Next, use a flat bed screwdriver as a lever to pry the broken arm up.


The broken arm should come right off. If it doesn't budge try spraying some WD40 or use gear oil to lubricate the hinge and try again.


After the arm comes off your wiper assembly should look like this. Turn on the ignition and turn the rear wiper on and then turn it off. This should return it to it's original off position if it was disturbed.


Before attaching the new arm, lubricate the motor with some gear oil or WD40 if chinks of aluminium are breaking away from the motor.


Attach the arm and push so that the perpendicular bits are snug. If you go to the gym do not press too hard, you might break the arm


Tighten the bolt and make sure the wiper arm's position is secure otherwise it will fall off.


Next, proceed to attach the blade to the arm. This should be very easy.




Final product

Don't forget to turn the ignition on and check if everything is working.

[S2!!!]

Nice step by step pictorial guide there, RocketRaccoon. I never knew fixing a broken rear wiper was this easy. Thanks for sharing.

[arnabchak]

Nice Pictorial Guide RocketRaccoon.

What was the cost of procuring the wiper arm and blades?

[RocketRaccoon]

Originally Posted by arnabchak

Nice Pictorial Guide RocketRaccoon.

What was the cost of procuring the wiper arm and blades?

I bought the rear wiper assembly from a wholesale OEM store in Malviya Nagar, South Delhi. I don't remember the exact cost as I bought it some time back but I am pretty sure it was a 3 figure sum. In any case it was way cheaper than going to an ASC for this small task.

[Jag4]

Originally Posted by RocketRaccoon

This is my first post at Team-BHP. While I would try my best to be as succint as possible, please feel free to add your own inputs and/or point out my mistakes (if any). I would request moderators to please move this topic to the appropriate thread if required.

Like any other year, the Delhi NCR region is burning up under the unapologetic summer sun. The temperatures make the NH8 resemble either a post apocalyptic Mad Max style dusty highway or a scorching road to hell. Consequently, air conditioners are running on Lo and blowing air full blast. If that wasn't enough, monsoon is coming (Game of Thrones reference )

In such a situation it becomes important to replace your cabin air filter at least once every summer season and make sure your wipers are in good shape. You could get this done from your ASC or spend 30 minutes and save money.

What follows is a pictorial guide on how to change cabin air filters and a broken rear wiper arm in a 2010 Hyundai i20 (CRDi). Level - Very Basic. Time - 30 minutes altogether.

Cabin Air Filter Replacement

Hey,Good job there.
I just wanted to ask whether replacing a mesh type airfilter with a Foam/paper type filter is advisable and the benefits of the same.

[hrbheda]

Great job RocketRaccoon!!

I do have one question! I was waiting for the monsoon to get over to change over the cabin air filter. I park my car on the street under the trees. As a result, a lot of the leaves, etc. get into the car from the fresh air intake below the windshield wipers. Consequently it collects near the filter and hence with all the dirt and muck associated with the monsoon i thought it would be a better idea to change it over later. For the time being I have cleaned it so it isn't blocked during the monsoon!

What do you think I should do?

[RocketRaccoon]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Hey,Good job there.
I just wanted to ask whether replacing a mesh type airfilter with a Foam/paper type filter is advisable and the benefits of the same.

That is a good question. By using a paper filter, my air flow has certainly decreased compared to mesh, i'll give you that. But it has helped my asthma cause hardly any pollen or particulates pass through the air vent. The air is much cooler too. I think it's a trade off you have to make. Mesh filters allow more air in the cabin but some dust certainly pass through.

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Great job RocketRaccoon!!

Consequently it collects near the filter and hence with all the dirt and muck associated with the monsoon i thought it would be a better idea to change it over later.
What do you think I should do?

As long as air flow is optimal, cool and dust free, cleaning the old filter and reusing it should be absolutely fine. Actually, I would have cleaned and reused my mesh filter again but I used a new set because Gurgaon is very dusty during this time of the year and It alleviates my asthma. Therefore, I chose to change them. Also, I did notice those leafy dust bunnies while filter replacement too. (Did not show in photograph for aesthetic reasons) Just cleared it with a cloth as much as I could.

[hrbheda]

Hey RocketRaccoon!
I have a doubt.
Can you check if the fuel filler neck has a plastic shield inside it ?
It opens up when the filling nozzle from the pump pushes it. You can find it after you open the gas cap and push your finger through it.

I gave my car for minor rear bumper/ferder painting work and it seems that they might have removed it. I noticed it in my other car (i10) when i was diagnosing some problems. The i10 has it and was wondering if the i20 has it or not!

Thanks for the trouble in advance!

[RocketRaccoon]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

Hey RocketRaccoon!

Can you check if the fuel filler neck has a plastic shield inside it ?

Apologize for the late reply hrbheda. Been busy with GMAT preperations. I opened the fuel lid and could not find any plastic shield inside. It was a deep curved hole and I saw in as far as I could. I think the small size of i10 was probably why such a contraption is present behind the said car's fuel lid. (This maybe because the fuel nozzle could be long enough to get securely inside the i20's larger body but needs a safety mechanism in a smaller i10.) Note that I have a December 2010 production i20 (1st gen) so things might be different in your car.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by RocketRaccoon

Apologize for the late reply hrbheda. Been busy with GMAT preperations. I opened the fuel lid and could not find any plastic shield inside. It was a deep curved hole and I saw in as far as I could. I think the small size of i10 was probably why such a contraption is present behind the said car's fuel lid. (This maybe because the fuel nozzle could be long enough to get securely inside the i20's larger body but needs a safety mechanism in a smaller i10.) Note that I have a December 2010 production i20 (1st gen) so things might be different in your car.

I too have the same car! Dec 2010 1.2 Asta. I checked in with RSR and the service advisor at the HASS. There is supposed to be a plastic sheild - it prevents any fuel to come out during a roll over (god forbid) and also prevents any vapours from escaping from the filler cap. I 've been consistently getting low FE since this part wasn't replaced by my local garage. If you think you need it you can have the car checked out!

Its is included in the "fuel filler neck assy" and comes with a few other pipes.

I paid the advance for him to order the part along with a glove box lamp and a rheostat illumination control switch.

On another note - i asked for the cost if the paper cabin air filter and the OEM part costs Rs 660/- each!!
The mesh filter on the other hand is Rs90/-
I read you bought a generic filter from a local shop. Any links as to where i can purchase one set online? Can't find someone who keeps such a part here in bombay!
Thanks!

[RSR]

This is an excellent D-I-Y thread, RocketRaccoon, and a great first post as well! Your detailed, step-by-step pictorial representation would surely be of great help to Hyundai i20 owners who prefer to replace these parts by themselves.

Originally Posted by RocketRaccoon

I opened the fuel lid and could not find any plastic shield inside. It was a deep curved hole and I saw in as far as I could... Note that I have a December 2010 production i20 (1st gen) so things might be different in your car.

Originally Posted by hrbheda

I too have the same car! Dec 2010 1.2 Asta. I checked in with RSR and the service advisor at the HASS. There is supposed to be a plastic sheild - it prevents any fuel to come out during a roll over (god forbid) and also prevents any vapours from escaping from the filler cap. I 've been consistently getting low FE since this part wasn't replaced by my local garage. If you think you need it you can have the car checked out!

Your cars were manufactured in the same month, but there seems to be a key difference:

Originally Posted by RocketRaccoon

What follows is a pictorial guide on how to change cabin air filters and a broken rear wiper arm in a 2010 Hyundai i20 (CRDi).

Originally Posted by hrbheda

I too have the same car! Dec 2010 1.2 Asta.

Could it be that petrol i20s are equipped with an inner flap near the fuel neck, while diesel i20s don't have it (as petrol can vapourise very easily when compared to diesel)?

Maybe the outer cap alone is sufficient for a diesel car, but a petrol one needs the inner flap as well?

The workshop guys forgetting to fit the flap does explain your lowered fuel efficiency, as vapour loss seems to have increased significantly without the flap. I agree with you that fixing the flap back should restore your fuel efficiency to what it was earlier.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by RSR

This is an excellent D-I-Y thread, RocketRaccoon, and a great first post as well! Your detailed, step-by-step pictorial representation surely be of great help to Hyundai i20 owners who prefer to replace these parts by themselves.





Your cars were manufactured in the same month, but there seems to be a key difference:





Could it be that petrol i20s are equipped with an inner flap near the fuel neck, while diesel i20s don't have it (as petrol can vapourise very easily when compared to diesel)?

Maybe the outer cap alone is sufficient for a diesel car, but a petrol one needs the inner flap as well?

The workshop guys forgetting to fit the flap does explain your lowered fuel efficiency, as vapour loss seems to have increased significantly without the flap. I agree with you that fixing the flap back should restore your fuel efficiency to what it was earlier.

I guess its is possible.
Will inquire when i get the part fitted as soon as they arrive at the service centre. Will let you guys know what they say!

[RocketRaccoon]

Originally Posted by RSR

This is an excellent D-I-Y thread, RocketRaccoon, and a great first post as well! Your detailed, step-by-step pictorial representation would surely be of great help to Hyundai i20 owners who prefer to replace these parts by themselves.

Could it be that petrol i20s are equipped with an inner flap near the fuel neck, while diesel i20s don't have it (as petrol can vapourise very easily when compared to diesel)?

Many Thanks RSR for your kind words. I think your observation regarding the inner flap is spot on. There are other differences between the cars like 6 airbags in the gasoline version and only 2 in Diesel.

Originally Posted by hrbheda

I too have the same car! Dec 2010 1.2 Asta.

And speaking of airbags I am having a strange issue with mine. The airbag warning light on the console has lit up and refuses to go off. There has been no collision or deployment. I even checked the seat belt wiring under the seat and there seems to be no damage. Hrbheda, are you facing problems of a similar kind i.e relating to electronic equipment ?

Regarding cabin filter I don't remember exactly but the amount was somewhere around 360-400 for the pair. Surprised that OEM mesh was so cheap ! My observation is that the paper filter is more effective which is probably why it costs more.

[hrbheda]

Originally Posted by RocketRaccoon

Many Thanks RSR for your kind words. I think your observation regarding the inner flap is spot on. There are other differences between the cars like 6 airbags in the gasoline version and only 2 in Diesel.



And speaking of airbags I am having a strange issue with mine. The airbag warning light on the console has lit up and refuses to go off. There has been no collision or deployment. I even checked the seat belt wiring under the seat and there seems to be no damage. Hrbheda, are you facing problems of a similar kind i.e relating to electronic equipment ?

Regarding cabin filter I don't remember exactly but the amount was somewhere around 360-400 for the pair. Surprised that OEM mesh was so cheap ! My observation is that the paper filter is more effective which is probably why it costs more.

About 2 yrs back i did face a similar issue. I had a OBD scanner but it could not retrieve a fault code. Upon taking it to the HASS they found out the clock spring was at fault.
The clock spring is a rotating device which sits behind the steering wheel. It provides continuous power to the airbag and the steering controls.
Its not that common but yes i have heard a few people facing the same issue.
A good way to check it would be if your steering mounted audio controls work intermittently or not at all.
It cost be about Rs 1800/- back then including labour.
Although it can be some other part of the SRS system that may be at fault. The exact faulty part can be identified only at the HASS.

Get it checked out at the earliest since the pretensioner seatbelts also are disabled when the SRS is at fault. And do keep us posted!

[RocketRaccoon]

Originally Posted by hrbheda

A good way to check it would be if your steering mounted audio controls work intermittently or not at all.
It cost be about Rs 1800/- back then including labour.

Yes ! I am facing this issue. Sometimes the audio controls on the steering get bonkers. Not joking - one day I observed volume up was down and down was up. Then I turned the engine off and turned it on again and it was fine. I shall take your advice and visit Hyundai soon.