[aayushnair]

Hi All,

So finally after the last DIY (Fog Lamp Installation) I got something more to do with my car!

Her 4th Service was due, and I wasnt planning on taking her to Skoda to do this. So with this thought in my head, I started my research on how to service the car for her 4th year.

The 4th service however was not documented by me, so I can only share my experience.
In Summary this is what I've done:
1. Purchase a Socket Set (Stanley STMT727958 24-Piece Drive Metric 1/2 inch Socket Set & Stanley STMT727948 46-Piece 1/4 Drive Metric Socket Set)
2. Purchase Mobil 1 0w 40 Fully synthetic engine oil - 4l
3. Purchase Oil Filter (OEM)
4. Purchase Fuel Filter (OEM)
5. Purchase AC Pollen Filter (OEM)
6. Jack Stands (set)

After the purchase of all of the above, it was time to complete the service. With many online manuals available on how to Change the oil, the fuel filter and oil filter and AC pollen filter, I followed these and was able to complete my car's 4th service MYSELF!!

Total Cost: Socket sets: 4000, Mobil 1 Oil: 3600, Oil Filter: 300, Fuel Filter: 1290, Pollen filter: 300, Jack Stands: 1100 = Rs. 10290.
I know that the above figure is as much as I would've spent on Service at Skoda, but out of that amount Rs. 5100 is Capex! So I've only spent another 5k on the service, which is Awesome.

For all those who are planning to do this, please ensure the following:
1. Get a Pair of Jack Stands (cannot tell you how important this is before getting under the car). Your car jack is only to lift your car!
2. You'll need pro tools.
3. You'll have to get under the car.
4. Go through videos and keep a documented guide to assist you along the way.
5. And finally, get a soda or a beer once done - Enjoy your own DIY and look at it in Awe!

Sorry I didnt take any pictures of the above, but I have another update to share - DIY brake disc/rotors change.

So, the rotors have never been changed. With Skoda telling me last year that the discs are fine for another year.
I decided to get them replaced, considering they've been on there for 4years and 54k kms.

Once again, I decided to invest my own labor in to this and the research onslaught commenced.
There are lots of guides on the net to help you attain this, so I downloaded a few and kept them for reference (printed them too).

Here's a list of tools and equipment you'll need to pull this off:
1. New Brake Discs/Rotors
2. New Brake Pads (recommended)
3. Allen key set
4. Spanner and socket set
5. WD40
6. Copper grease
7. Cleaning agents
9. Hammer/Rubber Mallet
10. Jack
11. Jack Stands
12. G Clamp
13. A mat to sit on
..and a lot of patience.

In the above I have recommended to replace brake pads too, but havent done it myself as my pads were replaced only last month, and they havent had much wear (upon inspection).

From now i'll let the pics do the talking:

A look at all the tools you'll need to this, once again always use jack stands when working under the car, with or without the wheels off. In this case they have to come off.



Thats really dirty, I know! A clean up is due this week. Once this is done!



Thats my Hydraulic Jack (2ton - 320mm) under the car and supporting the front axle.





..and I used both my jack stands under the car, along with the H.jack supporting the axle about 95%. As i let the stands take the weight and the jack as back up. I'm so paranoid about this I even, put my wheel under the car in case of a mishap. But living to tell the tale is so much more worth it!



I did this side by side, with the drivers side wheel coming off first.





So until here, nothing much of an add on except my paranoia! The DIY actually begins here.
Thats a look at the brake system, you can see how bad the discs have actually got, should've changed them at the time of replacing the pads (surprisingly when this was done at Skoda, they didnt ask me to!)




The first step next is to detach/unbolt the caliper, which houses the brake pads. To do this you'll need your allen key set and use the 6 to 7 mm key.
Now before you'll be able to access these bolts (theres 2), you need to take off 2 plastic covers first.





Once thats done use the allen key, go easy as you dont want to cause a bolt burn out. But you'll need one good push to get it going (once again remember not too hard).



Thats how the bolt looks.



And now to pry the Caliper off the disc. This was tough as the discs were well eaten into and since the pads were new, they just couldnt be pulled off. So a little extra prying with a screwdriver and hammer did the trick and here' how it would look once off.
Remember to not let the brake cable take the weight of the Caliper, place something to hold the caliper without letting the cable stretch.



Just a few more shots of the old brake disc and its condition, with the caliper now off and being supported.
Its time to take the disc off, its fairly simple, all that it needs is Torx (T30) bit and its off.









..after some WD40 and a clean up!



The new Brake Rotors.
I sourced these from City Motors in Opera House, Mumbai. Have to say, one of the best sellers of auto spares. I got my engine oil from them too and they really give a good rate.
Brand: Febi Bilstein 14040
Cost: 3800 (set)
They look and feel of high quality, guess I'll find out.



So the installation process is just reverse in the order of removal.





Just need t ensure, that you use a brake caliper tool or a g-clamp in my case to push the brake piston back into place, otherwise the brake pads will not fit the disc. To do this, always unscrew the brake fluid container and take the cover off.



Once both sides are done, switch on the ignition and pump the brakes to take out any air in the lines. Next put the cover back on the brake fluid container and shut tight. Next pump brakes again to test if the pedal sinks or builds strength. This is a good way to check if the brake lines have a leak or if the master cylinder is working fine.

Next test drive to check if the brakes function alright.

Finally after the test drive and checking if the install was successful, i was able to confirm everything went fine!

Here's to another DIY, and many more to come!

Hope you all enjoyed reading this.

Thanks Anyway!

Until next time,
Cheers,
Aayush.

[Aditya]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line to the Technical Stuff Section. Thanks for sharing!

[Jeroen]

Very nice write up, good to see some well thought through DIY work.

couple of thoughts, You might want to consider measuring the rotors and see if they can be reworked. The maintenance manual will show the minimum thickness. But then new ones will last you longer of course.

I see they came off real easy, which is not always the case. Sometimes it can be a real pita!

Here's a simple way using two bolts and nuts to force it off. I've used this technique several times succesfully

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-bkb5-A2Qs

Jeroen

[aayushnair]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Very nice write up, good to see some well thought through DIY work.

couple of thoughts, You might want to consider measuring the rotors and see if they can be reworked. The maintenance manual will show the minimum thickness. But then new ones will last you longer of course.

I see they came off real easy, which is not always the case. Sometimes it can be a real pita!

Jeroen

Hey thanks,

To make your next job easier, you should use Copper Grease (preferred) or any white grease and put a layer on the back of the disc contacting the disc and wheel hub. This will ensure it comes off without any problems when needed.

Its also recommended to put copper grease behind the brake pads for easier removal too!

Cheers,
Aayush.

[Pattam1234]

I hope you re-torqued them to the specific values. You do not want callipers or rotors working their way lose or snapping due to excess or under torquing.
Regards

[aayushnair]

Hi All,

Just an update on the performance of the new install.

I know its a little too early, but i've already completed close to 150Kms since the install - had to go a lot around and out of the city on Sunday and Monday!

I took all precautions, and didnt go fast (max 65 km/hr) to try and bed in the pads to the new rotors. During this drive there was nothing to complain about and everything worked just fine.
Today on the way to work early morning I pushed it a little to check the response and it was so much better than before.

So far I have nothing to complain, and I'm sure as the pads and discs set in, they will perform much better.

Thanks for reading.

Cheers,
Aayush.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by aayushnair

Hey thanks,

To make your next job easier, you should use Copper Grease (preferred) or any white grease and put a layer on the back of the disc contacting the disc and wheel hub. This will ensure it comes off without any problems when needed.

Its also recommended to put copper grease behind the brake pads for easier removal too!

Cheers,
Aayush.

Actually you should not put copper crease at the back of the rotor and the wheel hub. You need to ensure both sides are meticulously clean, but you should not put anything on it. It needs to be metal to metal contact, in order for it to be torqued properly and set perfectly. (you really do need a torque wrench for this sort of jobs.)

On the brake pads at the appropriate places it works very effectively to avoid any brake screeching.

Jeroen

[aayushnair]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Actually you should not put copper crease at the back of the rotor and the wheel hub. You need to ensure both sides are meticulously clean, but you should not put anything on it. It needs to be metal to metal contact, in order for it to be torqued properly and set perfectly. (you really do need a torque wrench for this sort of jobs.)

On the brake pads at the appropriate places it works very effectively to avoid any brake screeching.

Jeroen

Jeroen thanks s lot for this, sometimes you get misleading info on the net.
I will keep this in mind. I have only applied copper grease to the back of the pads.

Appreciate this.

Aayush

[spyder_p8]

Absolutely great thread. I wanted to change the front disc/pads and this comes as a good information. I wanted to service Vento TDI myself and planning to start this after my warranty is over. I have one question though. How to get rid of the service reminders that are set my the dealer. It will keep on chiming isnt it? Is that there in Fabia? How did you reset that?

[aayushnair]

Originally Posted by spyder_p8

Absolutely great thread. I wanted to change the front disc/pads and this comes as a good information. I wanted to service Vento TDI myself and planning to start this after my warranty is over. I have one question though. How to get rid of the service reminders that are set my the dealer. It will keep on chiming isnt it? Is that there in Fabia? How did you reset that?

Hi Spyder,

Thanks, it's almost as easy as pie to service your own car.

All you'll need is the OEM/aftermarket parts and tools.
Remember that you'll need something more than the regular tools with more strength to withstand the pressure/torque required to bolt/unbolt.
Especially for the car's underbody engine protector. Getting that one off was a pain.
The 33mm oil filter socket too is in a difficult to access location, you'll need something which can be extended.

A 1/2 socket set should solve most!
Also please ensure you get those jack stands too!

To answer your question on the SRI - it can be done manually or by the VCDS cable.

I did it using the VCDS cable i've procured from aliexpress. You'll find a topic on discussion of what VCDS can do on team-bhp.

Here's the Manual Way:

You can change certain settings by means of the information display. The current setting is shown on the information display in the respective menu at the top below the line.
The following information can be selected (depending on the equipment installed on the vehicle):

• Language
• MFD Data
• Time
• Winter tyres
• Units
• Alternative speed displayed
• Service
• Factory Setting
• Back

After selecting the menu point Back you will reach one level higher in the menu.
Language
This is where the language in which the warning and information texts should be displayed can be set.
Displays of the MFA
This is where certain displays of the multi-functional indicator can be switched on or off.
Time
The time, time format (12 or 24 hour indicator) and the changeover between summer/winter time can be set here.
Winter tyres
This where the speed at which a warning signal should sound can be set. This function is, for example, used for winter tyres with which the permissible maximum speed is lower than the maximum speed of the vehicle.
When exceeding the speed, the following is shown on the information display:
Winter tyres: max. speed … km/h
Measures
The units for the temperature, consumption and distance driven can be set here.
Second speed
The display of the second speed in mph or in km/h can be switched on here1).
Service
Here you can have the remaining kilometres and days until the next service interval displayed, and reset the Service Interval Display.
Factory Setting
After selecting the menu Factory setting the factory setting of the information display is restored.
That it is the full procedure how to reset service light indicator Skoda Fabia Mk2. If you like to reset any maintenance oil light after an oil change. Or reset check engine light, airbag light, inspection key or insp errors when maint reqd, for Skoda cars. Or any warning light for service reminder which appears on the display. Write in the search box the car name for which you want to find information, and find how to reset other service reminders by yourself.


VCDS can allow you to access many more fucntions in your car and is a boon for the DIY'er.



Cheers,
Aayush.

[Gannu_1]

Originally Posted by spyder_p8

I have one question though. How to get rid of the service reminders that are set my the dealer. It will keep on chiming isnt it? Is that there in Fabia? How did you reset that?

From the service booklet:

[fiestarry]

Originally Posted by aayushnair

All you'll need is the OEM/aftermarket parts and tools.
Cheers,
Aayush.

Hi Ayush,

How are the rotors holding up ?
My Fabia 1.4 tdi needs some pampering too at 60k km.
I plan to keep the Fab-ya going for 3 years more at least and I need the tech and moral support from like minded Fabians.

[aayushnair]

Originally Posted by fiestarry

Hi Ayush,

How are the rotors holding up ?
My Fabia 1.4 tdi needs some pampering too at 60k km.
I plan to keep the Fab-ya going for 3 years more at least and I need the tech and moral support from like minded Fabians.

Hi, they're doing great. The stopping power is better than what it was before.
Sure, anytime. Please feel free to get any sort of insights on what you're upto, and we're all here to help!
Cheers, Aayush

[oldshivabull]

Hi Aayush,

I have starting problems with my Fabia 1.2 petrol, and I wrote about it in a post elsewhere: "My engine does not start". I was advised by a kind BHPIan to look at the car's fuel filter and fuel lines.

I have to keep the ignition turned on with the key as I play with the accelerator to get the car to start every day. She doesn't stop when it's running. But after 8 hours or so of not running, I have to resort to the same method again.

What are your thoughts? And if I do have to check the fuel filter, can you please guide me on how I should be doing it? this would be first ever mechanical job. But I so do want to get the car right.

and the other issue is that the front power windows are not working. They are totally misbehaving. But maybe that is for later.

Thank you!

[aayushnair]

Originally Posted by oldshivabull

Hi Aayush,

I have starting problems with my Fabia 1.2 petrol, and I wrote about it in a post elsewhere: "My engine does not start". I was advised by a kind BHPIan to look at the car's fuel filter and fuel lines.

I have to keep the ignition turned on with the key as I play with the accelerator to get the car to start every day. She doesn't stop when it's running. But after 8 hours or so of not running, I have to resort to the same method again.

What are your thoughts? And if I do have to check the fuel filter, can you please guide me on how I should be doing it? this would be first ever mechanical job. But I so do want to get the car right.

and the other issue is that the front power windows are not working. They are totally misbehaving. But maybe that is for later.

Thank you!

Hi there,
Sorry about the starting trouble with your car.
I think the previous suggestion was a good one. You must check the fuel filter / get it changed. It's not a very expensive unit, costs about 1k and maybe that will resolve it. The reason why this was suggested was probably because the car starts after the ignition is on for sometime and during this time the engine gets the fuel it needs to start. Usually the pump would do the job when cranking it at the first go, but maybe cuz of a clogged filter its taking time.
Now the second thought in my head was the battery, but since you didn't need a push and car cranks after a while that can be ruled out. So my guess too would be the fuel filter or lines.
It's not very difficult to change the filter yourself, there are many videos on you tube you can check to get some sort of visual on how to do it. If you're not good with it you can always get it done at the local garage or Skoda. Don't think they charge too much to change it, but they may have a different diagnosis of the problem if your car isn't inside the warranty period!
Anyway, the window switches are most probably the culprit in the second problem. My passenger side window too plays up on and off. Haven't got the part, but I've seen a few OEM quality ones on aliexpress. Wasn't able to source them from the Skoda parts dealer at opera house.

Do let us know how things worked out after changing the filter. Remember that once a new filter is in there, it takes more than normal time initially to start the car (same reason as why its probably not working now) new filters take just a little time to get adjusted. So don't panic. Let it run, go for a shirt drive, switch off the car and check for another start after some more time.

Go bless, and don't worry!

Cheers,
Aayush