[BNG-motorhead]

Originally Posted by aayushnair

Hi,

No the wiring is not part of the headlight harness coming from the headlight multi-switch on my car. Had to wire it separately and I used a relay to do so.
Yes, it's a TDI and I still have her and plan to keep it that way - touch wood! :-)

All the best with your DIY!

Cheers,
Aayush

Me too! Love my TDI and other cars dont come close, even the new ones.

Questions:

1. If I want the fog lights to work as is, like with the switch pulled out, will the wiring be easier?
2. Any performance mods you tried? to make the car a bit snappy. I am happy with the way it is. But dont mind it being more agile. The minimum hack required. Not planning remaps n all since I dont understand the repercussions.
3. Tried Liqui Moly, loved it, now its not available, so moving to Meguin since its 505 01, would you have an opinion here?

There are very few of us out there Fabia TDI ones, taking the liberty to ask it all. Its mostly stock with the following things done.
- Tyre upsized to 185
- Timing belt replaced recently
Thats all!

Here is mine -

[aayushnair]

Originally Posted by BNG-motorhead

Me too! Love my TDI and other cars dont come close, even the new ones.

Oh man! You're hitting the right nerve here - none do imho, except a few other Germans! (very few).

Answers:

1. Fog lights - Yes, you can wire it to the switch directly. I've done this now but havent taken pictures. It's not very difficult - here's what you need to do:

a. Get the positive (source) and negative wire from the relay inside the car (you can from the firewall, there is a grommet jut behind the airbox (need to remove the airbox for access - link to how in one of my threads - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...at-shield.html (DIY: Skoda Fabia 1.2 TDI CR - Intake & Heat Shield)) and then the grommet.

b. Route the wires under the dash from the passenger side, the grommet opens right under the glove box (sorry I dont have pictures), will try and get some and to the drivers side from behind the music system to the fuse box and then finally to the HL switch.

c. Remove the HL switch - many videos on YouTube on how to do this, here's one -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7r3T_mYU5g4

d. The switch has marked nos. at the back where the wires are conneceted to the switch unit. Connect the positive wire using a lug connector in Point No. 9 - highlighted in red

e. Connect the negative wire using a lug connector in Point No. 10 - highlighted in green



f. This will now work with the rear fog light as there is no wire for the front fog light added to the harness by the factory. If your car has it connect the positive to Point No. 8 instead

g. Connect the relay with fuses to the battery and both fog lights (with separate ground wires from the fog light going to the bolts holding the Headlight in place on each side)

h. Test and then close everything up

The wiring isn't complicated, just involves a little more than before.

Also you'd have to remove the side dash cover (when you open the driver side door to your left on the side of the dash covered by the door, is a semi-circle shaped cover. Pry it open with a flat plastic trim remover) Will give you a lot more space to work your hands in to route wires in.

Note: I've zip tied the lug connectors in place and then also used PVC tape and harness tape to cover those areas. Also used a 30A fuse for the relay.
I made my own relay harness with a 5 pin relay and used connectors to finish the whole process. Pin diagrams as standard for any 5 pin horn relay.



Let me know if you need any more information on this.

2. Performance mods -
a. I've installed a RaceChip from racechip.de since 2014 - it is a plug and play device, has good reviews and adjustable performance levels. I wanted to go the remap way, but at the time there weren't any options for this engine. Now there are. A remap is better I've been told but haven't gone that route and with 128k kms on the Odometer not sure if I want to...
b. My car is lowered (again a DIY) by ~30-35mm using Eibach springs I got from Germany - the ride is sweet, hard but rail like!
c. K&N air filter - not sure but still counts as a performance mod!

3. Engine oil - I used Liqui Moly before in 2017 and didnt find much difference. I've been using Castrol 5w40 (fully synthetic) which now comes in VW 505 01 spec as well. Retails for ~INR 3500 for 5l.

Originally Posted by BNG-motorhead

There are very few of us out there Fabia TDI ones, taking the liberty to ask it all. Its mostly stock with the following things done.
- Tyre upsized to 185
- Timing belt replaced recently

That is absolutely true and no worries at all!
- I've upsized in 2013 to 195/55 Yoko S-drives and been driving them with 2 more changes since then.
- The timing belt and coolant pump was replaced at 110k kms. about 2 years back.

There's a lot that I keep doing with her, and this is how she stands right now. It's a recent picture and there's so much that I havent written about. I really need to...



Have a blast!

Cheers,
Aayush

[BNG-motorhead]

Originally Posted by aayushnair

Oh man! You're hitting the right nerve here - none do imho, except a few other Germans! (very few).

Answers:

1. Fog lights - Yes, you can wire it to the switch directly. I've done this now but havent taken pictures. It's not very difficult - here's what you need to do:

a. Get the positive (source) and negative wire from the relay inside the car (you can from the firewall, there is a grommet jut behind the airbox (need to remove the airbox for access - link to how in one of my threads - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...at-shield.html (DIY: Skoda Fabia 1.2 TDI CR - Intake & Heat Shield)) and then the grommet.

b. Route the wires under the dash from the passenger side, the grommet opens right under the glove box (sorry I dont have pictures), will try and get some and to the drivers side from behind the music system to the fuse box and then finally to the HL switch.

c. Remove the HL switch - many videos on YouTube on how to do this, here's one - https://www.Youtube.com/watch?v=7r3T_mYU5g4

d. The switch has marked nos. at the back where the wires are conneceted to the switch unit. Connect the positive wire using a lug connector in Point No. 9 - highlighted in red

e. Connect the negative wire using a lug connector in Point No. 10 - highlighted in green

Attachment 2115326

f. This will now work with the rear fog light as there is no wire for the front fog light added to the harness by the factory. If your car has it connect the positive to Point No. 8 instead

g. Connect the relay with fuses to the battery and both fog lights (with separate ground wires from the fog light going to the bolts holding the Headlight in place on each side)

h. Test and then close everything up

The wiring isn't complicated, just involves a little more than before.

Also you'd have to remove the side dash cover (when you open the driver side door to your left on the side of the dash covered by the door, is a semi-circle shaped cover. Pry it open with a flat plastic trim remover) Will give you a lot more space to work your hands in to route wires in.

Note: I've zip tied the lug connectors in place and then also used PVC tape and harness tape to cover those areas. Also used a 30A fuse for the relay.
I made my own relay harness with a 5 pin relay and used connectors to finish the whole process. Pin diagrams as standard for any 5 pin horn relay.

Attachment 2115340

Let me know if you need any more information on this.

2. Performance mods -
a. I've installed a RaceChip from racechip.de since 2014 - it is a plug and play device, has good reviews and adjustable performance levels. I wanted to go the remap way, but at the time there weren't any options for this engine. Now there are. A remap is better I've been told but haven't gone that route and with 128k kms on the Odometer not sure if I want to...
b. My car is lowered (again a DIY) by ~30-35mm using Eibach springs I got from Germany - the ride is sweet, hard but rail like!
c. K&N air filter - not sure but still counts as a performance mod!

3. Engine oil - I used Liqui Moly before in 2017 and didnt find much difference. I've been using Castrol 5w40 (fully synthetic) which now comes in VW 505 01 spec as well. Retails for ~INR 3500 for 5l.




That is absolutely true and no worries at all!
- I've upsized in 2013 to 195/55 Yoko S-drives and been driving them with 2 more changes since then.
- The timing belt and coolant pump was replaced at 110k kms. about 2 years back.

There's a lot that I keep doing with her, and this is how she stands right now. It's a recent picture and there's so much that I havent written about. I really need to...

Attachment 2115361

Have a blast!

Cheers,
Aayush

Thanks for the detailed steps, you really are very detail oriented, just awesome. Let me try this out and post back on the outcome, thanks mate!