Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher Quote:
Originally Posted by mercedised Thanks man. Could you give me specifics on how much water is tobe used. I have heard about kevin brown method for m105 which works wonders, do you have any experience with that. | Quote:
Originally Posted by mkh 1. Use a couple of sprays and see the polish come back , run till it dries |
It seems unknowingly I am doing almost same as his method. Hydro pads are specific for water based compounds/polishes and the closed cell structure keeps the material to its surface thereby reducing the material consumption and gives more working time.
Water is not at all required if the pad is clean and properly primed, but I used to apply a fine mist to help the priming, but be cautious that too much water can create swirls, reason being once its breaks down the pad is supposed to be dry, if there is a moisture content it can integrate those fine particles and creates bigger uneven particles and are aggressive, polishing using those particles esp with closed cell pads can create fine swirls. So too much water can have -ve impact, makes the pad over saturated. Also, cleaning the pad is very imp once its saturated esp, if we apply water.
Speed of the m/c is another factor, I use 1000-1500rpm for normal swirls / scratches and 2000-2500rpm for heavy scratches to reduce the number of passes, it will reduce the working time and breaks the compound very fast (so be careful not to use the m/c for the same duration as before), once the major scratches are almost removed, I do another pass with 1000-1500rpm so that the desired finish is achieved by proper breaking down of the compound.
For polishing, I am using Megs UP for the time being, but will be switching to CarPro Reflect once the bottle is over.
Last edited by ::CMS:: : 14th October 2014 at 10:26.
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