[rahulsnh]

Can someone help me assess whether Alpine iLX-207 will be compatible with Thar's double din slot.


Please feel free to share your experience if you have used Alpine iLX-207.


Thanks in advance!

PS: I'm outstation, away from my Thar and google searches have not revealed dimensions of Thar's double din slot.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by cs_rajesh

My plan is to connect the RCA out to Audison AP8.9bit, speakers not yet decided. Subwoofer output to Audison AP1D.

do you even need a head unit? - the amp takes a digital input - you could probably send digital audio directly from a phone or a tab to the amp, and this would be even better than a 5v pre out.
the only case i see you needing integration with steering wheel controls?

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by rahulsnh

Can someone help me assess whether Alpine iLX-207 will be compatible with Thar's double din slot. I'm outstation, away from my Thar and google searches have not revealed dimensions of Thar's double din slot.

The dimensions of a single or double DIN slot is standard. So it will fit. But I noticed in case of the Alpine the display is 2 DIN and the body of the unit is single DIN.

So check if any other part of the dashboard that interferes with the display. It is best you take the Thar to a accessory store and confirm the compatibility.

[cs_rajesh]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

do you even need a head unit? - the amp takes a digital input - you could probably send digital audio directly from a phone or a tab to the amp, and this would be even better than a 5v pre out.
the only case i see you needing integration with steering wheel controls?

Hi Greenhorn,

I do intend to use the digital signal direct from mobile and other devices of course. But I would still require a decent screen on the dashboard for the following usages:
1) rear camera display (if the head unit allows more than one camera, then the front camera as well). I prefer a 6" or 7" display instead rear camera display on a small portion of the IRVM display. In fact such IRVMs, especially hyundai cost a lot of money, that fitting a headunit with large displays can be VFM)
2) hear radio (which today still needs a head unit, mobile devices do not support)
3) CD or DVD playback in case the head unit is not mechless. I still have some original CDs that I can listen to.
4) mirror link the mobile phone or project the google maps display onto the display if the head unit supports.

I see that the Audison units supports USB and Toslink inputs and no bluetooth (this is definitely a bummer) and that means I need some more components to connect a mobile device to the Audison unit, such as a bluetooth receiver (and/or USB type converter for example). I am in search of such components too in parallel.

I found JBL & other american brand amplifiers supports such connectivity already, but since i got the Audison units already, I can't now go for those that support wireless (or bluetooth ) connectivity as a native feature.

regards
Rajesh

[Enigmatic]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

A typical installer may not be able to understand what it does. Think of this as a DC voltage stabilizer. You connect this to the 12v supply from the car...

Thanks, greenhorn.

I did discuss the same with the installer however a change of amplifier was enough to solve the issue. Thanks for the help.

Originally Posted by R2D2

Class D is normally for sub-woofers with their high power draw required to drive low frequency signals/bass. So if you do use a Class D use it for the SW.

Incidentally both my Focal amps, a 4 Ch and a SW, are Class AB with moderate power ratings of 75W RMS/channel x 4 Ohms and 300 W RMS x 4 Ohms respectively.

PS - BTW, my car audio amps and the SW are over 5 years old and outdated The components and rear 6x9s speakers are still available today.

Thanks, R2D2.

Visited the installer over the weekend. So in essence, the Blaupunkt amplifier had gone bad and in the process it had made some wiring overheat which further made things worse.

Got a new amplifier, Pioneer GM-D8604 which delivers a healthy 100W RMS per channel. Now all 4 components are being powered by this amplifier and I could not be happier. Not only is the issue sorted but the components are also running much better. There is a considerable increase in the clarity as well.

Thanks for the help.

Best,
Enigmatic

[PrideRed]

Between Focal Performance Auditor+RSE-165SI and Polk Audio DB6501 which is the better one. There is also this Focal Auditor+RSE-165SI which almost costs about 4.5K compared Performance Auditors 8K price tag.

[Screwdriva]

Greetings!



I am getting delivery of a New Creta Top of the line model with the 7 inch Head unit this month. I believe the OE supplied speakers are terrible which is why I was looking to source the best possible replacements for the car.


I am going for a 100% OE look (no amplifier, no sub woofer and nothing visible) but want the best possible sound I can get.


Any recommendations on speaker model and brand are welcome! I've been told Alpine is a good option for non- amped speakers but welcome your experiences as well!

[shreyak_ss]

I currently drive a 2018 swift with stock oem setup of front components and rear coaxials. The sound is decent but is more like a noise to my ears than music. Also, at high volumes the speaker rattles and the bass doesn't feel smooth at all. I'm no audiophile but I'm looking for a decent sound upgrade with crisp quality and enough punch.

I'm currently studying in Mangalore so that is where I'll be getting all this done. I visited a couple of local retailers and I saw various options from infinity, DD audio, focal, kicker, MTX but I'm really confused which will be the most vfm.

So I have a couple of queries in my mind:

First, is it absolute necessary to get rid of the stock system. I'm asking this because I kinda like the look stock and wish to retain it but my local guy was pushing for a HU upgrade which I found pretty much worthless.
Second, from what I have read on this forum and asked around, a setup comprising of high end components in the front, coaxials at rear, a 4 channel amp for the front speakers and for a sub with adequate damping should be good enough. Is this true or you'd suggest something else?
Third, since I'm spending so much on the upgrade I'm looking for something that I could retain for most of the car's life or could eventually put in to my next car maybe?

Any help is appreciated.

Regards,
Shreyak

[navin]

Originally Posted by shreyak_ss

I currently drive a 2018 swift with stock oem setup of front components and rear coaxials.

First, is it absolute necessary to get rid of the stock system.

The OEM system can be retained if you so wish. However when doing so keep in mind 2 things
(a) OEM systems do not have pre out so you will need to get an amplifier that can accept speaker level inputs or add a Line-level converter to convert the speaker level signal from the OEM HU to the RCA input of your amplifier.

(b) Most OEMs HUs have a hefty dose of equalization built in to compensate for the limitations of the OEM speakers. When you add after market amps and speakers this built in EQ of the OEM HU often gets magnified and can make the system sound too shrill or boomy or whatever EQ that exists in the OEM HU (it varies from brand to brand). The one solution to compensate for this is to add a DSP like an Audison Bit 10 or Bit 1, Alpine H800, Audio Control DQDX, Rockford Fosgate 360.3, etc. These DSPs can cost more than a new HU so should only be used if the OEM HU cannot be removed and the EQ in the OEM HU is too extreme and cannot be corrected by the tone controls of the OEM HU.

A system comprising of a 4 channel amplifier, a pair of components, a pair of coax and a subwoofer will give you the most bang for the buck. However keep this in mind.

Most mid priced 4ch amplifiers (with 2 channels bridged) are not as capable as a monoblock when driving a subwoofer. They will do the job just not as well as a monoblock. Monoblock amplifiers are purpose built for subwoofer duty only.

Lastly yes if the car you buy can accommodate the same speakers you can transfer the system from car to car. However in reality this does not make sense as over a period of 4-5 years the elements (heat, dust, humidity) will take it's toll on the speakers. The amplifier however can be easily transferred.

[Rohit_Quad]

Hi everyone. I thought i was good with audio numbers, but going through many pages, got me more confused. So here's the dilemma. I am planning on buying the following Subwoofer + Amplifier. My JVC head unit already has a sub-woofer pre-out and my 4 door (6x9) speakers are powered bu the head unit itself. I am presently running a Blaupunkt GTB 8200A active 75 W RMS sub-woofer, but am not satisfied with it's performance at mid to high volumes. Hence the itch for a change.

1. Sony XS-GTX121LT - https://www.sony.co.in/electronics/s...specifications
Rated Power 300 W, Peak Power 1350 W. Not keen on the round bass tubes, due to the need for tying them down.
2. This is where my confusion starts. about what amplifier i should go for (amplifier will power only the sub-woofer). From what i could make out, going by the numbers, Choice A shouldn't be sufficient and Choice B should be the best bet. But i read many reviews confirming that Choice A will be sufficient. I myself installed similar setups during my noob days, but after going through our threads, i am not sure naymore. Kindly Advice.

Choice A - Sony XMN502 2/1 Channel 500-Watt Amplifier - https://www.amazon.in/Sony-XMN502-Channel-500-Watt-Amplifier/dp/B00G9RCYAW
Specs - 500 W high power output
65 W x 2 (4 ohms), 85 W x 2 (2 ohms), 175 W x 1 (BTL)
Automatic Thermal Control
Low pass filter for bass
Single sided connections

Choice B - Sony XM-GS100 Mono Amplifier - http://https://www.amazon.in/gp/prod...d_i=1389269031
Specs - 330W high power output
600W at 4 ohms), 1100W x 1 at 2 ohms
Active thermal control for stable playback
Dynamic distortion suppressor for clear sound.

Can anyone tell me briefly why or why not i should go with either of the Choice A or B, as there is 3.5K difference between those two amplifiers.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by Rohit_Quad

Hi everyone. I thought i was good with audio numbers, but going through many pages, got me more confused. So here's the dilemma. I am planning on buying the following Subwoofer + Amplifier. My JVC head unit already has a sub-woofer pre-out and my 4 door (6x9) speakers are powered bu the head unit itself. I am presently running a Blaupunkt GTB 8200A active 75 W RMS sub-woofer, but am not satisfied with it's performance at mid to high volumes. Hence the itch for a change.

Can anyone tell me briefly why or why not i should go with either of the Choice A or B, as there is 3.5K difference between those two amplifiers.

Please don't buy a sony sub - those are crap. the Japanese make good electronics, but their speakers are nowhere near as good. Buy a JBL or something. And put more money into the sub than the amp.
Go with choice B ( though again i would suggest looking at kenwood or some other brand amp than xplod)

[shreyak_ss]

Has anyone experienced the infinity kappa 60csx components? I'm planning to get those in my swift or something similar. Please suggest if there's something better in the same price range. Also, how's mtx t6 series?
I'm also planning on getting my head unit changed to Sony XAV-AX3000.

[Rohit_Quad]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Please don't buy a sony sub - those are crap. the Japanese make good electronics, but their speakers are nowhere near as good. Buy a JBL or something. And put more money into the sub than the amp.
Go with choice B ( though again i would suggest looking at kenwood or some other brand amp than xplod)

I definitely agree about the common belief, that Sony has lost it when it comes to speakers, but i have been using a set of 6x9's since years and they sound amazing. So i am willing to take a chance due to 2 reasons.
1. Cost.
2. The shape of the enclosure.

Kindly let me know if you can think of any options for a sub-woofer with enclosure (not keen on buying an open air sub-woofer and attaching it to a box). The woofer should be in such a way that it should sit on it's own with out any need of tethering. The only other option that i can think of is this -

JBL CS1204B - JBL 12" Sealed Subwoofer Enclousure, Peak power 1000W, RMS power 250W - https://www.amazon.in/JBL-CS1204B-Sealed-Subwoofer-Enclousure/dp/B000LPQ3D2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1537088836&sr=8-5&keywords=jbl+subwoofer+12+inch+tube

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by Rohit_Quad

1. Cost.
2. The shape of the enclosure.

All these entry level subs and amps cost around Rs. 5k in the market, so I don't think Sony has a very big cost advantage. If cost is a concern, I strongly suggest you to get a sub and use it in a custom sealed box. The amount that you save can be used for a better amp or wiring.

Kindly let me know if you can think of any options for a sub-woofer with enclosure (not keen on buying an open air sub-woofer and attaching it to a box).

There's an entry level Pioneer 12" sub that comes with a sealed enclosure and it works pretty well. Do check out on that.

Also make sure you get a sealed enclosure if you want a nice and tight bass. Ported subs are as good (or bad) as having a basstube.

For amps, you can go for a 4 channel one from Pioneer, Kenwood, etc. since your setup doesn't really warrant a dedicated mono amp. You can think of a mono and move the 4 channel amp to the speakers later if needed.

Hope that helps.

[Rohit_Quad]

Hi Guys,

So I bought and installed the sub-woofer + amp. As suggested, I went for a 1200w JBL rather than Sony. Thanks for all the help!