[anup7649]

Hi All,

I am buying an Innova GX this month and hence looking for Head Unit only (since GX comes with standard 4 speakers already).

Specification it should meet are as below.
1. Should play CDs and DVDs.
2. Should have USB port.
3. Aux in.
4. Compatible with reverse camera.

Budget - 18k strictly.

I am confused whether it should be a touch screen or normal screen since it should be compatible reverse camera.

Please suggest which Brand I should go for and any specific model too.

Thanks,
Anup C

[navin]

Originally Posted by D'Artagnan

heydj could you tell me whats the purpose of a Hi Low converter? If I get a head unit later would I still need it?

Many OEM HUs and some entry level HUs only have speaker outputs. However many amplifiers have only "RCA" inputs.

Commonly the speaker outputs from a good HU can deliver up to 25Wrms/4ohms (about 2.5A or about 10V). However the RCA inputs have an impedance in the range of 10kiloohms (10,000ohms) and amplifiers expect a signal around 2V (some can accommodate 4V or more).

A High-Low converter is basically an impedance matching device that "converts" the 4ohms of the HU to 10,000 ohms expected by the amp. In the process it also attenuates the signal from 10V to 2V. I hope this helps.

Here is a video of the same (remember SMD works on really high power applications so drop the numbers in the video by about half for us regular folk)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fysQlOn6Bew

[heydj]

Originally Posted by D'Artagnan

heydj could you tell me whats the purpose of a Hi Low converter? If I get a head unit later would I still need it?

In layman terms with stock HU you need it but with new head unit most probably not required. Though having good quality hi low converters in place would be ideal.

[D'Artagnan]

Originally Posted by navin

Many OEM HUs and some entry level HUs only have speaker outputs. However many amplifiers have only "RCA" inputs.

Thanks for the detailed info Navin.

May I bother you on recommending an amp for my speakers. I have narrowed down the choice to:
1. Rainbow Dream 4
2. Beat 4 channel
3. Mosconi Gladen Pico 2
4. iPaul 2 channel
5. Flux FS 804

I like listening to classical music, solo piano and solo bass (the instrument not boom boom). I like the warmth of the bass to be reproduced well and my favourite musician is Ludovico Einaudi.

Lastly Navin, I have read quite a few of your posts and have always admired the way you help others understand, there is a degree of patience in it.

[soumen.blore]

Originally Posted by anup7649

Hi All,

I am buying an Innova GX this month and hence looking for Head Unit only (since GX comes with standard 4 speakers already).

Specification it should meet are as below.
1. Should play CDs and DVDs.
2. Should have USB port.
3. Aux in.
4. Compatible with reverse camera.

Budget - 18k strictly.

I am confused whether it should be a touch screen or normal screen since it should be compatible reverse camera.

Please suggest which Brand I should go for and any specific model too.

Thanks,
Anup C

You can look at pioneer 2790bt, I recently got it installed in my duster. I bought it from snapdeal for 16833 and it does have cd, usb and aux. I did install reverse camera with it for 1.5k. In my case I needed a steering control interface so that cost extra. Attaching a pic for your reference.

[BeantownThinker]

Originally Posted by D'Artagnan

heydj could you tell me whats the purpose of a Hi Low converter? If I get a head unit later would I still need it?

Whether you "need" the Hi-Lo converter or not depends on what kind of output ports are there on your head-unit and what kind of inputs your preferred amp takes.

For example:

If your HU has only speaker level output and your amp takes only RCA input then a Hi-Lo converter is required

If your HU has RCA output then Hi-Lo converter is NOT required

If your HU has only speaker level output and your amp takes both speaker level inputs and RCA inputs then Hi-Lo converter is not required

On my previous car I was running the OEM HU with one 4-channel Cerwin Vega amp and one Kenwood 2-channel amp. No Hi-Lo converters were used as both these amps could take both speaker level inputs and RCA inputs.

I do not remember the model numbers for these and I have sold that car.

My recommendation, expand your amp preferences to include those that take speaker level inputs as well. You will be surprised with the performance.

[anup7649]

Originally Posted by soumen.blore

You can look at pioneer 2790bt, I recently got it installed in my duster. I bought it from snapdeal for 16833 and it does have cd, usb and aux. I did install reverse camera with it for 1.5k. In my case I needed a steering control interface so that cost extra. Attaching a pic for your reference.

Great product. I too read a review by another bhpian here. Just comparing to see if I can get a 7 inch screen. This I see as 6.2 inch.
Thanks for your feedback on this product.

[navin]

Originally Posted by D'Artagnan

I have narrowed down the choice to:
1. Rainbow Dream 4
2. Beat 4 channel
3. Mosconi Gladen Pico 2
4. iPaul 2 channel
5. Flux FS 804

How many of these amps have you heard?

The Dream 4 is Class D and best used when space is a premium, the Beat 4 is Class AB. The Mosconi is also class D and is only 2 channel so is the ipaul 2.400. I am confused as to what you are looking for.

All these amps are well made, they just cater to different tastes and applications. If you are looking to drive just the front components then a 2 channel will suffice. So far I have not heard a Class D amp that can compete in SQ with the best of the Class AB amps. And similarly I have not heard a Class AB amp that can compete it SQ with the best of the Class A amps (at the same price point). Putting a Class A amp in a car is rare. Class A produces a lot of heat. My wife's first reaction to one of my Class A amps was "is it safe? I can bake an egg on it". I had to rush to my amp's rescue lest she actually try that. :-)

[soumen.blore]

Originally Posted by anup7649

Great product. I too read a review by another bhpian here. Just comparing to see if I can get a 7 inch screen. This I see as 6.2 inch.
Thanks for your feedback on this product.

Pioneer 5790bt is another option although it costs around 23k.

[D'Artagnan]

Originally Posted by navin

How many of these amps have you heard?

I am confused as to what you are looking for.

All these amps are well made, they just cater to different tastes and applications. If you are looking to drive just the front components then a 2 channel will suffice.

I've listened only to the Mosconi AS100.4, DD 4channel and a Hertz amp. I will be listening to classical music and would like to hear every musical instrument being played. Similar to an orchestra.

I am looking to get a sub in phase 2, so would need a 4 channel amp. Is it advisable getting an A class amplifier.

[heydj]

Originally Posted by navin

So far I have not heard a Class D amp that can compete in SQ with the best of the Class AB amps.

+1. I used to use Class D amp and then I heard Class AB amps. Difference in sound signature is certainly there.

Currently using DD Class AB amp.

I have Rainbow components, DD class AB amp, Image Dynamics Subwoofer, Rockford Hi Low converters, and gauge 4 bull audio wiring.

I am looking to improve control over subwoofer and tweeters and don't wish to replace stock HU.

Navin ji any suggestions on how to improve SQ?

[navin]

Originally Posted by D'Artagnan

I am looking to get a sub in phase 2, so would need a 4 channel amp. Is it advisable getting an A class amplifier.

LOL no. Class A in a car is rather "exotic". Class AB is acceptable enough. Of the ones on your list only the Beat 4 and Flux 804 make that list (4 channels Class AB).

Originally Posted by heydj

I have Rainbow components, DD class AB amp, Image Dynamics Subwoofer, Rockford Hi Low converters, and gauge 4 bull audio wiring.

I am looking to improve control over subwoofer and tweeters and don't wish to replace stock HU.

Navin ji any suggestions on how to improve SQ?

Driving a sub is one area where Class D amps are really useful. They are efficient and you can get a 300W class D amp that occupies less space than a 100W class AB amp. So a ClassD Monoblock would be the first thing I would consider. I would also upgrade the power cables.

I do not understand what control you want over the tweeters though. What do you find lacking in the current tweeters.

[HighwayofLife]

Originally Posted by navin

LOL no. Class A in a car is rather "exotic". Class AB is acceptable enough. Of the ones on your list only the Beat 4 and Flux 804 make that list (4 channels Class AB).



Driving a sub is one area where Class D amps are really useful. They are efficient and you can get a 300W class D amp that occupies less space than a 100W class AB amp. So a ClassD Monoblock would be the first thing I would consider. I would also upgrade the power cables.

I do not understand what control you want over the tweeters though. What do you find lacking in the current tweeters.

I would add that a Rainbow iPaul 4 channel (not 2 channel) is a good option, if you plan to drive a pair of coax speakers for the rear fill. This is what I use presently.

I think the question of "control" of tweeters refers to Time Alignment settings? If yes, then a DSP has to be used, if the stock HU is used.

[heydj]

Originally Posted by navin

Driving a sub is one area where Class D amps are really useful. They are efficient and you can get a 300W class D amp that occupies less space than a 100W class AB amp. So a ClassD Monoblock would be the first thing I would consider. I would also upgrade the power cables.

I do not understand what control you want over the tweeters though. What do you find lacking in the current tweeters.

I find my components to be very sharp or clear for my taste. Crossover settings are at low and treble from HU at -2 but still sound is too sharp.

For woofer I am looking to make bass more tight.

Will DSP solve my problems?

[::CMS::]

Originally Posted by heydj

I find my components to be very sharp or clear for my taste. Crossover settings are at low and treble from HU at -2 but still sound is too sharp.

For woofer I am looking to make bass more tight.

Will DSP solve my problems?

If sharpness is there, mostly it will be the inherent property of the tweeter itself and depending on the xover point sometimes it may be from the mid speaker also. Phase issues can also make this happen. Another reason is the source, which includes the format and the HU used.

Similar to the sharpness, sub tightness is also related to the xover points or phase or source ( both format and HU)

Eq ing may help to an extend.