[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Thumper1604

... which sub to buy, the budget is Rs. 10k for the sub. Please suggest ...

There are quite a few around 5-6K - JBL, Polk, Infinity, Kicker, Bull etc. Add 1K for a sealed box, plus RCA and good speaker cable from amp to sub.

The only criteria you should use is how good it sounds - how tightly it reproduces bass in songs you have heard with good headphones, possibly better. Audition the subs before deciding.

[amitksvs]

Almost everyone here suggests that the Decision to buy any piece of equipment has to be made solely on the basis of AUDITION; being a Newbie here I may sound naive but when I am looking for a Component or two for my Car (e.g. only front components with same HU and rear speakers) how do I get an audition? I guess what dealers may offer is an Audition inside their shop/s or in their audition rooms, but will they offer the audition with their components in my Car? which I may not buy eventually after listening to it!! Is that a practice adopted by reputed ICE dealers? Just wondering so thought of asking.

[navin]

Originally Posted by amitksvs

I guess what dealers may offer is an Audition inside their shop/s or in their audition rooms, but will they offer the audition with their components in my Car?

There are 2 types of audition.

1. In a dealers shop. But these are few and far between at least in India.
2. In another customer's or friend's car. Now this is far more practical. While the "other" car might not be exactly the same as yours, the HU might not be exactly the same as yours, and the amplifiers (if any) might not exactly the same as yours the best you an hope for is a vauge idea of the speaker's timber.

Loudspeakers vary the most.
a. It is they who convert electrical energy into mechanical energy and this is most inefficient and where most distortions are audible (an amplifer with 0.1% distortion is esy to find but a loudspeaker with 0.1% distortion at 95db at 50Hz is very diffcult).
b. Loudspeakers responses differ when the volume behind them and in front of them changes. Hence a 6" in a rear deck might sound very different when it is in a door.

So why audition?

Most of these variations are in the sub 200hz range. In the 300Hz-15khz range (I dont hear much higher than that at my age) the variations are fewer. So what you can tell from an audition is the timber of the speaker. Is it too bright or too dull? Can it make various drums sound different like they should be or does it turn all drums into one boom? With components (in a godo install) you can even tell channel seperation (it must be just right not too much making it sound like dual mono or too little when it sounds like everything is comging from front and center).

So auditions are useful (in a limited sense). It is better some audition than none at all.

[gendarmee]

I've gotten the cars head unit changed to Pioneer and the front and rear speakers changed to infinity 5030cs & Polk db891. But that didnt solve the problem. The front still lacked base and one couldn't differenciate b/w the left and the right speaker. Also the front speakers, though audible were totally out of sync with the rear speakers. To add to this the tweeters(fixed above the OVRM lever, both pointing at each other) sounded extrememly hissy and sound from them pinched the ear.

For the problem with base from the front speaker I tried checking if the speakers were in phase using phone and this android application Polarity Checker, and running only the individual speaker at a time. The results were fine. The sound from the two front and two rear woofers is in - phase, while the sound from front tweeters are in phase with the rear ones( + phase), while the sound from the 2nd pair of tweeters on the rear speakers is in - phase.

For the problem with the tweeters I decided to turn off the 3db gain on the crossover. I opened up the door cards today and turned off the gain. The tweeters, though still slightly hissy, sound much much better now. No problem on this front.

When I opened the door card I noticed somethings out of place.
1) the door card was pressing down on the speakers.
2) The speakers have been mounted using hardware screws, with nuts under 2 mount points, into holes drilled into the door panel.(pics attached)



For now I've added a piece of 1 inch foam under the door card such that it doesnt touch the speaker. As of now, the speakers sound normal'ish. There is some base and can differenciate the left from the right speakers but the speakers have been damaged over the 3 month use necessitating replacment. I will have the door card trimmed to do away with the problem, wouldn't mind chopping the plastic panel on the door either.
When I enquired about the bolts at the place the speakers were installed they said if not for the nuts the speaker would come in the way of the window glass, and that this is the way they mount 5 inch speakers into spaces meant for 4 inch ones.

Could some suggest what could be done to mount the speakers properly or suggest some place in Hyderabad where I could get it done. (If possible, I'd prefer to do it myself though.) Some sort of adapter could be made, I'm guessing.

I wouldnt mind getting the door card cut and the plastic panel on the door chopped off if it possible to fit 6 inch speakers with some sort of adapter, is it even possible?

Found hole on the door card, and there is a hole under it on the door panel as well. Would it be any better if the tweeters were re-located to this place, few inches under the door lever(~12cm abover the speaker)?


Help much appreciated.

[nitrous]

Originally Posted by gendarmee

I've gotten the cars head unit changed to Pioneer and the front and rear speakers changed to infinity 5030cs & Polk db891. But that didnt solve the problem. The front still lacked base and one couldn't differenciate b/w the left and the right speaker. Also the front speakers, though audible were totally out of sync with the rear speakers. To add to this the tweeters(fixed above the OVRM lever, both pointing at each other) sounded extrememly hissy and sound from them pinched the ear.

For the problem with base from the front speaker I tried checking if the speakers were in phase using phone and this android application Polarity Checker, and running only the individual speaker at a time. The results were fine. The sound from the two front and two rear woofers is in - phase, while the sound from front tweeters are in phase with the rear ones( + phase), while the sound from the 2nd pair of tweeters on the rear speakers is in - phase.

For the problem with the tweeters I decided to turn off the 3db gain on the crossover. I opened up the door cards today and turned off the gain. The tweeters, though still slightly hissy, sound much much better now. No problem on this front.

When I opened the door card I noticed somethings out of place.
1) the door card was pressing down on the speakers.
2) The speakers have been mounted using hardware screws, with nuts under 2 mount points, into holes drilled into the door panel.(pics attached)
Attachment 1108332
Attachment 1108333

For now I've added a piece of 1 inch foam under the door card such that it doesnt touch the speaker. As of now, the speakers sound normal'ish. There is some base and can differenciate the left from the right speakers but the speakers have been damaged over the 3 month use necessitating replacment. I will have the door card trimmed to do away with the problem, wouldn't mind chopping the plastic panel on the door either.
When I enquired about the bolts at the place the speakers were installed they said if not for the nuts the speaker would come in the way of the window glass, and that this is the way they mount 5 inch speakers into spaces meant for 4 inch ones.

Could some suggest what could be done to mount the speakers properly or suggest some place in Hyderabad where I could get it done. (If possible, I'd prefer to do it myself though.) Some sort of adapter could be made, I'm guessing.

I wouldnt mind getting the door card cut and the plastic panel on the door chopped off if it possible to fit 6 inch speakers with some sort of adapter, is it even possible?

Found hole on the door card, and there is a hole under it on the door panel as well. Would it be any better if the tweeters were re-located to this place, few inches under the door lever(~12cm abover the speaker)?
Attachment 1108334

Help much appreciated.

Give the installers an earful.
Thats the worst way to install speakers.
You need to install them with spacers.

[Pheonix]

Originally Posted by amitksvs;

Almost everyone here suggests that the Decision to buy any piece of equipment has to be made solely on the basis of AUDITION; ....... how do I get an audition? Just wondering so thought of asking.

Giving my 2 cents as i was exactly in the same situation as you were

Practically speaking most of the Audio installers dont facilitate auditions atleast at my place here and the ones who do with big fancy stores cost the installation a bomb !!

Here is what i have done once i decided to ICE my Car .

1.Gone through this forum ,threads,web and shortlisted couple of options which suited my needs
2.Spoke to lots of installers ,got quotations for the configurations i intended to get installed and finalized one who atleast i felt has some "Audio Gyaan" and who understands my audio needs rather than selling his goods. I cleary made it a point that i will be auditioning couple of options before finalizing the set up.
3.During installation i made sure to audition different Comps and rear Coaxes before finalizing my set up which soothes my hearing

Auditoning Comps is a bit tedious as everytime they have to plugiin/out some wires,etc but Coaxes can be easily changed as they need a single wire.

So once you have finalized your installer auditioning shouldnt be an issue. But make sure to do your own bit of homework instead of completely relying on his suggestions

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by gendarmee

... 1) the door card was pressing down on the speakers.
2) The speakers have been mounted using hardware screws, with nuts under 2 mount points, into holes drilled into the door panel.(pics attached)
...
Could some suggest what could be done to mount the speakers properly or suggest some place in Hyderabad where I could get it done. (If possible, I'd prefer to do it myself though.) Some sort of adapter could be made, I'm guessing. ...

Your speakers seem pretty OK from the looks of it. But, now you have to either gather courage to do some modifications yourself, or go to a better installer. The fact that the current installer had set the XO to +3dB speaks volumes about his thinking.

1. Get some 19mm MDF spacer rings for 5.25" - they are available readymade in the market. If you don't get for 5.25", get for 6.5" speakers

2. Stick a carbon paper (carbon side facing you) temporarily on the inner metal of the door, and press the spacer on the carbon sheet - making sure the spacer ring is positioned symmetrically around the speaker hole. This should mark the raised areas in the metal. Using a box cutter, whittle away the marked areas. Repeat till the spacer fits snugly on the metal

3. Mark mounting hole locations (where there are nuts now) on the spacer ring, drill holes and counter sink them so that the bolt head sits flush with the outer surface of the ring. Mount the spacer ring to the metal with bolts

4. Hold the speaker in place, rotated 45deg from current orientation, and mark the places for speaker screws. Use 12 or 15mm long self-tapping screws to mount the speaker (connect the speaker wire first). If there is a gap between the speaker frame and the spacer (especially if you are using 6.5" spacer), use rubber sheet (not foam, but like truck inner tube) cut into a circle and mount it between spacer and speaker frame

5. Cut the cardboard of the doorpad till the hole is just larger than the speaker frame. Snip cuts in the rexine around the hole radially, and stick it to the cardboard inside the doorpad using Fevicol SR. Stick foam in a circle around the inside of the hole (not in a square like you have done now)
It would be a good time now to stay all loose wire / cable lengths with good masking tape after twisting some CC foam strips around them - will prevent rattling

6. Mount the doorpad back, and fit the original speaker mesh cover on the speaker frame (it is usually a press fit)

[Achilless]

Till few days back I was going to install Pioneer AVH-P8490BT in my Old Swift Dzire. Day before yesterday I came to know pioneer has introduced new model AVH-X8590BT model few days ago. Has anybody heard about this model? I tried search the same models review on net (of course with the help of Rajinikanth i.e. GOOGLE) but efforts are in vain. Though the dealer said there is no much difference at all, both the models are same. I genuinely asked him then what was the reason for such a big company like pioneer introduced this model when there is no difference in previous and new model. The answer which I got is only minor change with mirroring, in previous model you can mirror your phone using cable and in new model you don’t have to use cable. I am not at all convinced by any means. Does anyone from experts have auditioned or heard about this model? One of our forum member who is also ICE specialists told me that there is a software change which occurred in this model. 8450 used to get hanged many occasions, whereas new model has very fine tuned software. I agree to buy his comments to certain extend but as IT professional I have my own doubts to believe this comment, as why Pioneer is not upgraded the software in the 8490 system rather than introducing new model, if there is no difference at all.
The MRP of the models are
Pioneer AVH-P8490BT: 30,990 INR
Pioneer AVH-X8590BT: 33,990 INR
Can our experts throw some light on this? Reviews welcome..

[offroad_maniac]

Originally Posted by Achilless

...


, if there is no difference at all.
The MRP of the models are
Pioneer AVH-P8490BT: 30,990 INR
Pioneer AVH-X8590BT: 33,990 INR
Can our experts throw some light on this? Reviews welcome..

....
Sorry to jump in like this. Not an expert at all, but on my pioner HU 4590BT, user manual, i noticed that the model with X have a different LCD display with some visual effects & also has what pioneer calls as Party shuffle mode (not recalling the term now). Alo there are some advanced functionalities that normal model.

This may be or may not be same for model you have shortlisted. Nothing on pioneer site?

[parsh]

My HU is an age-old double din Pioneer FH-P5000MP, that has Tuner with CD (MP3 with WMA compatibility) and Cassette (yup) deck. I still carry some sacred old cassettes with me and it is a grand pleasure when the magnetic tape starts producing those melodies. Plus the quality (both build and SQ) of the HU is still damn good without any damage/failure so far since 2005. I just love it and I have no intention of getting rid of it and changing it to something modern.



However, I do want to be able to plug and play through USB to gain that much more storage for MP3 songs instead of just changing the CDs as and when needed, though I don't mind it and I do have some decent stock of my CDs.

Again, I do not want to get that Radio Frequency addendum for plugging in the USB by constantly plugging it into charger port, even though it is an extremely cheap alternative.

Now, Pioneer units have IP-BUS interface and I have got AUX working too with an IP-BUS in AUX so I can plug in mobile/mp3 player and keep playing the songs but which have to be controlled by their own interfaces.

This model also has the capability to play CDs by interfacing with CD-changer through IP-BUS connector.

Now, I want to know if somebody does or has knowledge of having a plug-in (electronic) module done for such Pioneer units for providing an USB connectivity directly which could be controlled through the CD-changer interface or any other way.

[nitrous]

Harman Kardon Drive+play 2

[parsh]

I am more of looking for something like Pioneer CD-UB100 which seems unavailable now
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-CD-UB1...pr_product_top
http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/ar...B100/page.html
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...oneer-CD-UB100
or an electronic module that could connect into the HU's IP-BUS interface or can be plugged inside it electronically

[Achilless]

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

....
Sorry to jump in like this. Not an expert at all, but on my pioner HU 4590BT, user manual, i noticed that the model with X have a different LCD display with some visual effects & also has what pioneer calls as Party shuffle mode (not recalling the term now). Alo there are some advanced functionalities that normal model.

This may be or may not be same for model you have shortlisted. Nothing on pioneer site?

On pioneer site they havent mentioned differences about two models and user manual also not clear about the added features. If at all the display is better how it will help me out? About advance functionalities, dont find any of them apart from mirroring.

[nitrous]

Originally Posted by parsh

I am more of looking for something like Pioneer CD-UB100 which seems unavailable now
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-CD-UB1...pr_product_top
http://www.pioneer.eu/uk/products/ar...B100/page.html
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...oneer-CD-UB100
or an electronic module that could connect into the HU's IP-BUS interface or can be plugged inside it electronically

Try finding a used one. They occasionally pop up on ebay international.

[scorpian]

Hi folks,Need guidance.
I had a pioneer 5950 installed in my zen which apparently i was fed-up of as i needed something with USB so that i could get music on the move,i switched to a spare set of Sony gt484us.

I am facing a weird issue my front speakers sound very feeble they are Sony 6.5inch. The rear are pioneer ovals 6x9 powered by a Sony 2 channel amp.

I am unable to fade out to front speakers even if i fade out completely to front the rear ovals are still playing.How do i rectify this problem??My RCA is connected to rear/sub-woofer option.

I need sound up front,as of now the music is blaring from the rear with the front as good as zero.

Please suggest something.