[fine69]

Originally Posted by navin

No. It is fine. the 1004 can easily drive a CTX and 1 pair of compoents.

Navin ji, after posting this question I searched a lot and figured that the ID CTX sub, though rated at just 175 rms, has even been powered up to 250w rms by people.

What significance does this rms rating have when such subs can be powered way beyond it? And how does one determine the upper limit in such cases because someone one day might as well power it with 300-350 rms and who knows, the sub could still play well without any damage.

Requesting guru-gyan on one another thing- While narrowing down the sub for my ICE I was hell bent on selecting a sub with maximum rms rating that I could get at a certain price. However, after days of reading I realized that its the Sensitivity (dB) which is responsible for loudness rather than these rms ratings. Finally when I narrowed down on the ID CTX 12" I was told that this sub can go louder (and still clearer) than a lot of subs in the price range of 4k-6k yet has such low rms ratings (175w only). Does rms and sensitivity have any correlation/dependency at all?

[navin]

Originally Posted by fine69

What significance does this rms rating have when such subs can be powered way beyond it? And how does one determine the upper limit in such cases because someone one day might as well power it with 300-350 rms and who knows, the sub could still play well without any damage.Does rms and sensitivity have any correlation/dependency at all?

Sadly the ratings published by most manufactuers are incomplete.

Generally a woofer in a small sealed box will be able to absorb more electrical power than the same woofer in a large ported box (butwill probably produce lower SPL).

Similarly 100W @ 30hz will stress a woofer's suspension but 100W @ 200Hz will not.

The ratings p[ublished are to serve a rough guide and not the gospel truth.

[thelord]

I think navin has given all the answers perfectly.
Just to add, a higher sensitivity may not always be a good thing. Not sure but I think sensitivity beyond a certain point could also mean the driver not in control. A low sensitivity driver due to its stiffer mechanical design would need more power to produce the same dBs but it'll be in more control of the music it produces. (Take the example of a sub in a small sealed box vs a large sealed box. A very wild analogy but I guess you get my drift)

[Twiny]

Current stock setup (in NHC ZX): HU:Alpine CDA-560EG, Stock Fr/Rr speakers

Looking for upgrading to Front:Comps, Rear:6x9 coax (Budget:10-12k)

Also damping of front doors and Rear tray(at least). Budget:5k (This I think need to be done first as even with stock setup, everything from doors to Rear view mirror shakes with good bass; yes I like more bass)

Thinking of putting Morel-Maximo speakers. Is HU power would be enough to drive the Maximo's. My average listening volume level is below 10, on current setup.

Others brands so far comes in my mind: Infinity Reference, RF(punch series?)

Thanks...

[navin]

Originally Posted by Twiny

Current stock setup (in NHC ZX): HU:Alpine CDA-560EG, Stock Fr/Rr speakers
Looking for upgrading to Front:Comps, Rear:6x9 coax (Budget:10-12k)Thinking of putting Morel-Maximo speakers. Is HU power would be enough to drive the Maximo's. Others brands so far comes in my mind: Infinity Reference, RF(punch series?)Thanks...

Traditionally Morels have always been power hungry. I have a Morel subwoofer in my car but it is driven by a few hundred watts from an amp that has a reasonably high damping factor. I dont know if the Maximos are similar. Other than this disclaimer, since your listening levels are not loud, either the Maximos or Infinity will serve you well. Other options are Focal, Rainbow and Image Dynamics.

see this link
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/produc...-265-kick.html

[Twiny]

Thanks Navin for sharing the information and the links. I will dig more and will come back.

[Ragul]

Guys

I installed Fosgate 1652-s prime speakers in the footwell of my Gypsy just above the accelerator pedal, and on the opposite side. These went into a 4" pre-cut hole in the body the Gypsy comes with.

I am getting a slight sewer pipe effect or bathroom effect in the SQ. How do I fix this?

--R

[mashmash]

Originally Posted by Ragul

Guys

I installed Fosgate 1652-s prime speakers in the footwell of my Gypsy just above the accelerator pedal, and on the opposite side. These went into a 4" pre-cut hole in the body the Gypsy comes with.

I am getting a slight sewer pipe effect or bathroom effect in the SQ. How do I fix this?

--R

I too have RF speakers 4" front in stock location in an Esteem and the sound is real good, not even close any kind of sound in a bathroom. Did you try adding some kind of damping material around the speaker or in the hole? Just guessing, the sound could be bouncing off the metal around it.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Ragul

... I am getting a slight sewer pipe effect or bathroom effect in the SQ ...

Might be some back-breaking work, but this would need you to try out different mounting angles. That is, you will need to change the direction the speaker is facing.

[Astleviz]

Is there a better SPL sub than Type R (swr-1243d) for less than 10,000 bucks? I have heard good stuff about RE audio subs on several forums but never seen (let alone audition) any of those. I am looking for something between 500-600w rms at 2 ohms as I intend to retain the alpine mrp-m500 mono amp. I may shift the type r sub to my Figo and may need a replacement sub for my ikon.

BTW, how is Pioneer TS-W2502D4 sub? I am curious because it needs a very small enclosure (.35-.70 cubic feet) and I don't mind freeing up some space inside the boot but not at the cost of quality.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Astleviz

Is there a better SPL sub than Type R (swr-1243d) for less than 10,000 bucks?

BTW, how is Pioneer TS-W2502D4 sub? I am curious because it needs a very small enclosure (.35-.70 cubic feet) and I don't mind freeing up some space inside the boot but not at the cost of quality.

The Pio is a 10" subwoofer and would hence need more excursion to produce the same SPL as the Alpine 12".

[Astleviz]

Originally Posted by navin

The Pio is a 10" subwoofer and would hence need more excursion to produce the same SPL as the Alpine 12".

By that I assume it will need more amplification power to produce the same SPL as a type R?
Is there any other SPL sub (500-600w rms) that I can try out instead of Type R? Not that I have any issues with the type R sub, just wanted to know if there is anything better in the same price range. These days swr-1243d is available for 8000 bucks on ebay global (I paid 10,500 a few months ago) and I was about to order another one but wanted to consider other options.

[Ragul]

Originally Posted by mashmash

I too have RF speakers 4" front in stock location in an Esteem and the sound is real good, not even close any kind of sound in a bathroom. Did you try adding some kind of damping material around the speaker or in the hole? Just guessing, the sound could be bouncing off the metal around it.

How do I put damping material through a 4" hole? It is different when the speaker is mounted in the door - panel can be removed. Not so with hole in inner body of car. Sigh! Unless there is way to reach that area after removing fenders over the tyres.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Might be some back-breaking work, but this would need you to try out different mounting angles. That is, you will need to change the direction the speaker is facing.

I wanted it angled, but the accel foot would hit the mdf plank if any angle is given. It is just above my toe.

--Ragul

[SumitB]

Okay gurus, I need suggestions.

We have 2 Safari VXs, one is mine and the other belongs to my father-in-law. The vehicles come with an Alpine HU model DVA-9861E. If I am not mistaken, there are 4 speakers in the car. Things were okay and I did not find anything amiss in the audio system of both the vehicles till I got my wife the Cruze LTZ. Now, I need some base from the audio system of the Safari. I don't like to listen to the music system of the Safari anymore and same is the case with my father-in-law. I want to achieve an audio quality as close to that of the Cruze as possible. My budget for each vehicle is not at all high and I am wondering if this can be taken care off in around 5000/- for each of the behemoths. We don't have any good installers in Shillong so I plan to drive the Safaris to Guwahati and get things done there.

Please suggest what I should look for and what equipment would I need to achieve what I am looking for. Also, I want this to be done without voiding the warranty of the vehicles.

Please guide me through.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Astleviz

By that I assume it will need more amplification power to produce the same SPL as a type R?

Not nesscarily so but yes in this particular case the Pioneer will need more power than the Alpine to produce the same SPL (if they are both in sealed boxes with a Qtc of 0.7).

Originally Posted by SumitB

Things were okay and I did not find anything amiss in the audio system of both the vehicles till I got my wife the Cruze LTZ.

It is diffcult for a stereo in a SUV like the Safari or Bolero to produce the same effect as that of a car like the Cruze, Corolla or Civic. That said the move effcient use for your money would be to damp the doors (all 5 of them) reduce all buzzes and rattles that cars like the Safari are known for and maybe upgrade the stock speakers.