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Old 14th May 2009, 21:31   #9391
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Originally Posted by goldie View Post
anyways i am still waiting for the valueable inputs from our people around.
goldie as i earlier replied to your query, get in touch with ajay at hermit.

by the what all your boss need in his car, how much he is ready to spend give us some idea.
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Old 17th May 2009, 16:59   #9392
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I have this question about power hadling...

I am using Dynaudio Esotec 362 just as an example.

The website suggests that Esotec 362 system is a combination of three drivers - MW172 (woofer), MD142 (midrange), and MD102 (tweeter)

Cotinuous Power Handling: 200 RMS @ 4 Ohms

Now, the three drivers combining to form this system are availabe seperately as well.

MW172: 150 RMS @ 4 Ohms
MD402: 100 RMS @ 8 Ohms
MD102: 100 RMS @ 8 Ohms

My question is: if we are making a 3 way system using the passive crossover provided by Dynaudio, how can the power requirement and impedance change? Or is it that in an active setup the power requirement is inherently more?

Please pardon me if my question is stupid.

Last edited by akbaree : 17th May 2009 at 17:03.
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Old 18th May 2009, 02:26   #9393
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I have one more question.

When we are running a 2ohm DVC sub with a 2 channel amp in bridged mode (4 ohm load on the amp), what would be impact on other parameters like damping factor, THD, SN Ration,et al.

I am sure Navin had answered this question in one of the threads, but I am unable to find that thread.

Navin can you answer this once again.
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Old 18th May 2009, 11:05   #9394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldie View Post
My Boss has bought a new Skoda Superb Diesel May 09 Model...

Mr. Jacob Koshy from J & B Audio in Bandra
I know Jacob from way back (80s). I heard he had moved to Santa Cruz, maybe he has moved back to Bandra.

In the Laura the ICE and Parktronic share the same display. In the new Honda Accord the dash's stock look has to be sacrificed if one wants a 3rd party HU. So if your boss's Superb has similar issues he might have to make some decisions as to what acrifices he is willing to make. Even in the old (1996) Opel the cassette HU (Philips) used the same display as the car's outside temp gauge, date/time clock, etc.. adding a 3rd party HU to such cars means sacrificing looks or functionality or both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
I am using Dynaudio Esotec 362 just as an example.
MW172 (woofer), MD142 (midrange), and MD102 (tweeter)
Cotinuous Power Handling: 200 RMS @ 4 Ohms
Now, the three drivers combining to form this system are availabe seperately as well.
MW172: 150 RMS @ 4 Ohms
MD402: 100 RMS @ 8 Ohms
MD102: 100 RMS @ 8 Ohms

My question is: if we are making a 3 way system using the passive crossover provided by Dynaudio, how can the power requirement and impedance change?
The power rating for the tweeter and midrange as stated above is not complete. Usually such drivers have a power rating that reads as follows

MD102: 100 RMS @ 8 Ohms @ 12db/oct @ 3kHz
or
MD402: 100 RMS @ 8 Ohms @ 12db/oct @ 300Hz

Musical energy is not equal across the entire audible spectrum. For typical old school music (western classical and 60s and 70s rock) about 50% of the musical energy is below 300Hz, about 75% is below 1250Hz, about 85% is below 2500Hz, etc.. Hence if you have a 3 way using 300Hz and 2500hz as your Xo points the woofer will handle about 50%, the midrange about 35% and the tweeter about 15%.

Lastly most dynamic drivers are not limited by the ammount of thermal power they can handle but by the phyicial limits of their suspension. One can blow a tweeter with just 2W at 100Hz becaue the tweeter's suspension wont be able to control the movement of the cone/dome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
When we are running a 2ohm DVC sub with a 2 channel amp in bridged mode (4 ohm load on the amp), what would be impact on other parameters like damping factor, THD, SN Ration,et al. Navin can you answer this once again.
Typically if you are running a 4 ohm sub using a 2 ch. amp in briged mode each channel sees an equivalent of 2 ohms. It is not often recommended but most good modern car amps are capable of surviving this.

Yes Damping factor will be affected but the affect on THD and S/N ratio would be minimal (audibly negligible) if the power supply does NOT run out of steam. However budget car amps with poor power supplies will huff and puff with such a load. Ideally try to ensure that each channel of your car amp sees a minimum of 3 ohms and a maximum of 6 ohms (above which you loose efficiency).

akbaree, I am humbled by you asking me; but you must know that I am NOT a professional in audio. I am not affiliated (nor ever was) with any audio company or distributor/dealer. I am sure that the pros (Sam K, Autophile, B&T, LBM, Gunbir, etc..) would be better able to explain such details. The content of my posts might be incorrect or misleading.
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Old 18th May 2009, 13:57   #9395
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Thanks Navin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
akbaree, I am humbled by you asking me; but you must know that I am NOT a professional in audio. I am not affiliated (nor ever was) with any audio company or distributor/dealer. I am sure that the pros (Sam K, Autophile, B&T, LBM, Gunbir, etc..) would be better able to explain such details. The content of my posts might be incorrect or misleading.
I mentioned you, because I remembered you answering this very question in great detail. And now I have found the post as well.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...tml#post862395

I think similar to rating threads, we should have a provision to rate best posts as well.
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Old 18th May 2009, 16:47   #9396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
Thanks Navin.


I mentioned you, because I remembered you answering this very question in great detail. And now I have found the post as well.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...tml#post862395

I think similar to rating threads, we should have a provision to rate best posts as well.
Akbaree, that link does not lead to any post with an answer about speaker power.
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Old 18th May 2009, 16:57   #9397
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
Akbaree, that link does not lead to any post with an answer about speaker power.
My immeidiate earlier post where I asked about power ratings and passive crossover, it was not specifically directed at you. But with all your humbleness, you have answered my question anyways. I do respect your knowledge irrespective of your being an just an interested by-stander (as you like to call yourself). Of-course with all due respect to the other gurus on the forum as well.

Last edited by akbaree : 18th May 2009 at 17:01.
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Old 21st May 2009, 12:53   #9398
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Comps or coaxials on stock HU ?

Hi I have a Linea and still pondering about how to go about adding an amp, not messing with the electricals, etc. etc. In the mean time however, I am sick and tired of the SQ of the stock speakers SQ and HU whose output is 4x30w. My question is would it make sense to add components to the stock HU minus an amp? Would the SQ get better even though the components will be underpowered?

The other option I am now seriously thinking of in the interim is to buy a better pair of coaxials for just the front, which I can later move to my wife's car once I figure out the ICE upgrade.
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Old 21st May 2009, 13:45   #9399
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if you are satisified listening at ordinary volume levels, yes, Components will still make a world of difference , if your existing speakers are coax
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Old 21st May 2009, 15:01   #9400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pranava999 View Post
My question is would it make sense to add components to the stock HU minus an amp? Would the SQ get better even though the components will be underpowered?
Components will make your stock HU sound nicer. Obviously an amp would help even more. You mihgt find that the components dont play as loud with your HU as your stock OEM speakers do.
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Old 21st May 2009, 15:02   #9401
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@ pranav. Yes, as greenhorn said going for component will make a huge difference but they will sound much better with an amp. Generally the hu are rated as 30x4/50x4 but they only provide 10/15 watts.

You can go for coax but its better to buy components for the front, i don't have any idea about the linea electricals but get in touch with a good installer he will sure help you with it. By the way what all problem you are facing with it
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Old 21st May 2009, 16:03   #9402
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Thanks Navin,greenhorn and Karan

Have been reading around the Forum that ICEing Fiats in general requires an experienced installer as the electrical set up is a lot trickier than the other brands.

Secondly as my HU is stock and has no pre-outs, is also integrated with Blue & Me set up (when calls come in as of now, the music stops and then resumes post call), wondering how someone would go about wiring stuff and if this would get affected.

This is a thread that I have started for the Iceing and regularly update it.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...-my-linea.html

Would appreciate your comments/opinions based on experience or expertise.

Thanks
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Old 26th May 2009, 09:29   #9403
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Dumb question:
Can the internal amp in a HU be bridged ?
I have a blaupunkt cassette player that has a provision for 4 speakers. I am going to use it to power only 1 pair of ovals (mostly JBL 937). So if i can bridge the HU preouts (?) will i get the speakers to go louder ?
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Old 26th May 2009, 10:08   #9404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooldude1988765 View Post
Dumb question:
Can the internal amp in a HU be bridged ?
Most HU's use bridged amps so do not attempt this.
Attempting to bridge 2 bridged amps will damage the amps.
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Old 26th May 2009, 11:13   #9405
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Originally Posted by cooldude1988765 View Post
... So if i can bridge the HU preouts (?) will i get the speakers to go louder ?
If you are connecting the speakers to the HU you will be using the dedicated Speaker terminals, not the Pre-outs. Pre-outs are meant for feeding (low-voltage) signal to an amplifier, and 'bridging' is not associated with them.

HU amp will distort at high volume levels. If you really want to go loud, someone is selling a 2-channel Kenwood amp cheap in the Classifieds - grab it.
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