[drvhplyevraftr]

When you say wiring, is it the wiring from the monoblock to the sub or the power cable wiring to the monoblock itself?.

Anyways, I will try with a few more DVC 4+4 combinations today.

[redfire]

@drv

By wiring, JK meant both I am sure. It is very important that you need a quality and recommended guage cable to power the amp from the battery. It is also important to have good speaker wire to connect the sub to amp. Both these plays vital roles. Many of us have experimented this and there is a huge difference in quality and power when you use a good cable.

[drvhplyevraftr]

I am using 4 gauge kicker wiring and the speaker wire is again kicker which I think is good isnt?.

The only DVC 12" sub I see from Indiajbl.com is the P1224. This should go well with the JBL 3501 monoblock amp isnt?. Let me know of other options.

The kicker 4+4 ohm DVC sub that was tried yesterday with the monoblock JBL 3501 must be Kicker 06CVX124.
Car Audio, Car Stereo, Home Audio and Video, Radar Detectors and more, Thousands of products online! Audio Warehouse Express : Specializing in Car Audio for Less. Will this not work well with the JBL 3501?.

[harmon_bro]

Hi all,
I have a IDQ 12 D4 V.3 sub and I need sealed enclosure specification for it. Can someone please help me here?

On the specification sheet I see the following details

For sealed enclosure

1. Audiophile(Large box): 1cu ft(28.31l) 0 to 3 pounds
2. Universal(intermediate box) - .88 cu ft(24.91L) 0 to 2 pounds

The sub is driven with a Phoenix Gold RDS1200.1 monoblock amp and the car is a lancer. I like my bass to be precise, tight and beat to be timed well with the music and not booom like crazy. Please let me know as soon as poosible please.

Thanks very much.

[hydrashok]

@harmonbro, I like mostly the same kind of bass you do, and in addition I prefer the sub to be as "invisible" as possible. I run an IDQ12 D2V2 in a 0.75cu.ft. sealed box and that about hits the sweetspot for me. It used to be in a sealed box that was just a shade under 1.2 cuft. The bass was quite nice, but I prefer bass from the smaller box.

Why don't you try a 1cu.ft. box first? If you don't like the bass that much (i.e. if you want it tighter and less boomier), just add a small brick or two to the box to reduce the volume. If you like the bass after you reduce the volume, just get a wooden piece in the same size, remove the brick, and fasten the wooden piece inside the box.

BTW, the IDQv3 is a nice buy. I listened to one a coupla weeks back (for the first time), and quite liked it. The bass is a bit deeper than the v2, without losing any of the speed of the v2. The IDQ v2 actually sounds a bit uh, 'thinner' in comparison.

[harmon_bro]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

@harmonbro, I like mostly the same kind of bass you do, and in addition I prefer the sub to be as "invisible" as possible. I run an IDQ12 D2V2 in a 0.75cu.ft. sealed box and that about hits the sweetspot for me. It used to be in a sealed box that was just a shade under 1.2 cuft. The bass was quite nice, but I prefer bass from the smaller box.

Why don't you try a 1cu.ft. box first? If you don't like the bass that much (i.e. if you want it tighter and less boomier), just add a small brick or two to the box to reduce the volume. If you like the bass after you reduce the volume, just get a wooden piece in the same size, remove the brick, and fasten the wooden piece inside the box.

BTW, the IDQv3 is a nice buy. I listened to one a coupla weeks back (for the first time), and quite liked it. The bass is a bit deeper than the v2, without losing any of the speed of the v2. The IDQ v2 actually sounds a bit uh, 'thinner' in comparison.

Thanks for the valuable inputs Hydra will try out as suggested. More inputs and experience / pointers are welcome.

Hydra, is the small box tighter and still maintains the same bass output as the 1cuft or the bass is tighter and the bass is reduced equally when installed in the small box? Thanks.

[hydrashok]

@harmonbro, best stick to 1 cu.ft. After all, that is the recommended volume. My first box was actually bigger than the recommended sealed box volume. The recommended volume was between 0.55 cuft & 1cu.ft.

As for 'boominess' you really needn't worry that the IDQ will sound boomy. It will not, in the 1 cuft box. A smaller box will make the bass somewhat tighter, but i think there will be a small penalty as far as loudness goes. Given the same amount of power, the smaller box will be a little less louder than the 1 cuft box.

Go for the 1 cu.ft. Box

[harmon_bro]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

@harmonbro, best stick to 1 cu.ft. After all, that is the recommended volume. My first box was actually bigger than the recommended sealed box volume. The recommended volume was between 0.55 cuft & 1cu.ft.

As for 'boominess' you really needn't worry that the IDQ will sound boomy. It will not, in the 1 cuft box. A smaller box will make the bass somewhat tighter, but i think there will be a small penalty as far as loudness goes. Given the same amount of power, the smaller box will be a little less louder than the 1 cuft box.

Go for the 1 cu.ft. Box

Thanks again Hydra, can you or anyone please help me with specifications and dimensions to build the enclosure of 1cu ft specification?

[chetans]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Chetan, your best bet would be a small inverter which converts 12VDC from the cigarette lighter socket to 220V AC. VA rating should be roughly at least 50% more than the AC VA as given in the rating plate of your laptop's AC adapter.

A DC adapter has to be specific for you laptop model (DC voltage, current rating, VA rating - check the rating plate on your current AC adapter; also plug suitable for your laptop's DC socket) and cannot be used to power anything else.

i am almost finalised on buying this:
Car Inverter 75W, Car inverter 150W, car inverter 300W, Axiom car inverter, car charger, charger, car

just wanted to know any drawbacks of using such inverters.
Please share such details.

googled and got below hit:
eBay India: 150 watt Multi utility car power inverter (item 380085244778 end time 27-Dec-2008 13:59:50 IST)

this item has got even usb output socket.

[ariendj]

which would be better-GTO938 or GTO947!!

[navin]

Originally Posted by ariendj

which would be better-GTO938 or GTO947!!

the 947 is suposed to be brighter than the 938. pick your poison.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by chetans

... googled and got below hit ...

This one looks good. The USB socket is for charging iPods, Blackberrys and just about anything else that can charge via USB sockets.

There are cables available from / branded APC (yes, the UPS guys) for charging Nokia and other phones from USB socket - found that in eZone, costs 400/- I think.

[ariendj]

Originally Posted by navin

the 947 is suposed to be brighter than the 938. pick your poison.

if 947 is brighter then whats its difference with the 937??i think 937 is brighter than 938!!
btw one help please,could any of you tell me the prices of 937 ,947 and 938!!
i was quoted 4.5k for 938!!

[superbhikari]

Originally Posted by chetans

i am almost finalised on buying this:
Car Inverter 75W, Car inverter 150W, car inverter 300W, Axiom car inverter, car charger, charger, car

just wanted to know any drawbacks of using such inverters.
Please share such details.

googled and got below hit:
eBay India: 150 watt Multi utility car power inverter (item 380085244778 end time 27-Dec-2008 13:59:50 IST)

this item has got even usb output socket.

No problem at all, but when I plugged the USB charger of my htc touch diamond the inverter blown up. Be careful on that.

[chetans]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

This one looks good. The USB socket is for charging iPods, Blackberrys and just about anything else that can charge via USB sockets.

There are cables available from / branded APC (yes, the UPS guys) for charging Nokia and other phones from USB socket - found that in eZone, costs 400/- I think.

yeah i had checked it in ezone. so i think i might go with this one.
thanks for the suggestion.