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Old 12th September 2008, 11:24   #8716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
Gurus i dint get any hints thats why posting it again
Not a good idea. Under certain circumstances (contact oxidation, inequal cable area, inequal heat dissipation, etc.), you will have spurious blowing - if one fuse blows when the current through it exceeds its rating, say 50A sustained, the other will automatically blow since it will now need to carry the 50A now. This will defeat the purpose of getting protection for currents beyond 70A.

You will need to separate circuits, so that you can put separate fuses of appropriate rating for each.
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Old 12th September 2008, 11:49   #8717
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Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
You will need to separate circuits, so that you can put separate fuses of appropriate rating for each.
I got this idea from the UPS.I have seen two blade fuses soldered together on the pcb to support higher current rating.
I cannot separate circuits since CS60.2 is 25A and i have replaced it with Blau GTA4 which is 70A (35x2A).I have only one Power cable.
Is it ok if i run one more power cable and both will have 35A fuse each.
What is the rating of fuses used in branded wiring kits.Is it 12V50A (or only 50A no voltage specified). I have one 80A fuse used for electrical applications (i think known as HRC) can i use similler one

Last edited by mohang_j : 12th September 2008 at 11:59.
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Old 12th September 2008, 12:16   #8718
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
yes you can but they have to be islated from other fuses.
Sorry i dint understand.

Quote:
remember if you upgrade the fuse to 75A the fuse holder must be able to carry the current too otherwise that may melt
i was successfull confusing you.What i meant was if i use two 35A fuses in seperate holders .Like this
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Old 12th September 2008, 12:33   #8719
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
smaller drivers especially midbass drivers (high Bl/Mms ratio) reproduce bass more accurately than large woofers but they cannot reproduce high SPL at low frequencies and are usually mounted in doors with limited rear volume.
That tells me why some of the audiophile brands have Subs starting at 5". I would like to ask this - for a SQ set up, a well designed 8" sub will suit better than a 12" one? Assuming both 8" and 12" are well designed Subs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
So if you are playing a lower volumes it may make sense to XO the midbass as low as possible (even full range) and use the sub only for the last octave or bass reinforcement.

At the other extreme if you want to reproduce Disco levels in the car a higher XO freq and steeper slope makes most sense.
This explains a lot of things. Thanks.
If the fronts are playing at full range, then while setting the Sub XO, the frequency range of the fronts should also be taken in to account. Many audiophile components (of sizes 6.5") have frequency response beginning only at 55-60 Hz.
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Old 12th September 2008, 12:58   #8720
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Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
That tells me why some of the audiophile brands have Subs starting at 5". I would like to ask this - for a SQ set up, a well designed 8" sub will suit better than a 12" one? Assuming both 8" and 12" are well designed Subs.



This explains a lot of things. Thanks.
If the fronts are playing at full range, then while setting the Sub XO, the frequency range of the fronts should also be taken in to account. Many audiophile components (of sizes 6.5") have frequency response beginning only at 55-60 Hz.
Which Subs and specifie model ?

And I have also seen it but do they produce the required 55-60 hz effectively NO.
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Old 12th September 2008, 13:25   #8721
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Hi guys, this is my third post on this thread and I have received no response yet. I request the gurus to please help me out - I am booking the vehicle in two days and need to have my accessories list ready before that.
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Old 12th September 2008, 23:11   #8722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
I got this idea from the UPS.I have seen two blade fuses soldered together on the pcb to support higher current rating.
I cannot separate circuits since CS60.2 is 25A and i have replaced it with Blau GTA4 which is 70A (35x2A).I have only one Power cable. ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
.. i was successfull confusing you.What i meant was if i use two 35A fuses in seperate holders .Like this
Guruve, I understood the first time around.

Again, no, not recommended. In old household fuse holders, one could use 2 strands instead of 1, but then both the strands would face the same LOCAL thermal conditions that govern the 'fusing'. Whoever soldered 2 fast-blow fuses together in the UPS was just doing his job, not applying his mind!!!

OK, I did not realize you wanted a fuse for a single amp. No, in this case even with 2 power cables, you have to put one fuse only. Look for a higer rating AUTOMOTIVE fuse (80-100A; may be blade, may be cartridge). NOT HRC, that is a different application. It contains sand to quench the arc produced with high terminal voltage - a situation not faced with 12V lines - and usually tolerates much higher current spikes.
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Old 13th September 2008, 10:47   #8723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Guruve, I understood the first time around.
That was for Navinji not for you- i knew you had understood what i was telling.
Quote:
Look for a higher rating AUTOMOTIVE fuse (80-100A; may be blade, may be cartridge).
.
I am not getting blade fuse holder for more than 35A.Let me try again.
Quote:
NOT HRC, that is a different application.It contains sand to quench the arc produced with high terminal voltage - a situation not faced with 12V lines - and usually tolerates much higher current spikes.
Ok sir will not make that mistake - i know the hard way of ignoring the fuse rating (read as overconfidence).Thats why so many queries.
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Old 13th September 2008, 11:09   #8724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
i was successfull confusing you.What i meant was if i use two 35A fuses in seperate holders .Like this
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
I am not getting blade fuse holder for more than 35A.Let me try again..
THis is what I suspected. If you use 2 35A fuses in parallel rememerb that both fuses have to be very close together and any electrical resistance between them can cause one fuse from blowing before the other leading to the other fuse to blow too.

If you are not getting a blade fuse holder beyond 35A then dont stuff 2 35A fuses into a 35A blade fuse holder the holder will melt. One optionis to use a fuse holder other than a blade fuse holder.
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Old 13th September 2008, 12:11   #8725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
If you are not getting a blade fuse holder beyond 35A then dont stuff 2 35A fuses into a 35A blade fuse holder the holder will melt.
I will not do that
Quote:
One optionis to use a fuse holder other than a blade fuse holder.
Did you mis something or its me can you explain this

Last edited by mohang_j : 13th September 2008 at 12:12.
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Old 13th September 2008, 13:50   #8726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razor4077 View Post
I recently fitted a Pioneer 4050UB HU in my Scorpio. Quite strangely, I am unable to turn the HU off. The "Off" button is combined with the "Source" button - you have to keep it pressed for a few seconds to turn the system off. However, keeping it pressed is resulting in the Source changing to "USB-iPod" and not turning off. I've tried keeping the button pressed for varying lengths of time but no luck. The user manual doesn't say anything extra - just instructs one to keep the button pressed for a few seconds to turn off the HU.
Has anyone faced this issue? What's the solution?

Also:
Am unable to use my iPod Nano with this HU. I get a "N/A USB" error message. According to the manual, this implies:
"Old version of iPod -Update the iPod version.
OR: iPod failure - Reset the iPod"

I know it isn't the latter, because the iPod is working fine by itself and when hooked up to my Lancer's Alpine CDE9881 HU. Not sure about the version - I have a first gen Nano.
I am using Pio CD-IU50 USB to iPod wire to connect the iPod. The USB connector wire came with the HU. There is no separate port to attach an iPod cable to the HU - it has to be connected the USB cable. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am sorry, I am not answering your query. But I have the same problem. I recently changed to 4050UB & as you mention, I cannot turn it off nor can I use the USB port to play music from my phone or MP3 player which has a USB connection.
But I remember, when I got this HU installed, the guy who installed it played music from his pendrive thro' the USB port ?
Strangely, whenever I try playing thro' the USB port, I getthe "N/A USB" message & after a couple secs the HU switched off.

Not sure what the problem is. I can play music from my phone through its USB port connected to external speakers vert well.

Appreciate if any audio guru can provide a solution to this.

THanks,
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Old 13th September 2008, 22:20   #8727
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razor4077,
This one is for you. I kind of sorted out my problem, partly reading some stuff in this forum and partly by experimenting.
Thnk God it was a holiday today. Went out and bought a Transcend PenDrive. Loaded some songs and tried playing on my 4050UB HU. And lo & behold, it played straight out. Then tried to play through my mobile....no such luck. I had read somewhere in this forum that some devices need addtl power supply. There is only 500mamps that is supplied through the USB port and thatis not sufficient to play some external music sources like IPods & HDD. A pendrive probably needs less power. So it works. So my suggestion is to try to supply power to your IPod through the cigerette Lighter & then play through the USB port....it might work. nto sure though.

Strangely & I am not sure what button(s) I had pressed earlier, when I switched on the HU today, it did not start playing music from the loaded CD instantly. It was waiting for me to press the SRC button & only then started . Then I tried to hold that button for a couple of secs and saw that it switched off. And I am dead sure that I had tried to do that in the past and it just kept switching between the "Tuner", "CD", "Aux" & "USB" just like I mentioned in my previous post......Strange are the ways in which these things work.

But for now, I think I am good. I have 8GB on the pendrive, enough songs for the kind of person that I am. Good luck to you.
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Old 13th September 2008, 23:21   #8728
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Fourth post

Hi friends,

This is now my fourth post here on this thread without even a single response. I must say I am quite disappointed with this.

I would like to request another time. Please could one of the experts help me out on this?

hoping to get a response.

-Ganesh
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Old 14th September 2008, 07:14   #8729
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just curious, why are you looking only at blaupunkt stuff? there are better deals to be had , and while they are good all round speakers, you can get stuff that suits your taste in music more. What sort of music do you listen to ?
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Old 14th September 2008, 10:19   #8730
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hi gurus,

just wanted to ask one thing.

i want an advice on an amp and an enclosure sub.

my current choices are

kenwood 8401 - roughly 5k
pioneer wx301 - not sure of price, might be 7k

what else can you suggest? strictly in this budget.
my current setup is pioneer 5050 HU and kicker 600.2 front compos.
i like both of these.

iam really confused...
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