[kb100]

man HU available in US.. now need to find someone who is coming down from there who is willing to bring it down for me

[Sam Kapasi]

Originally Posted by senthildsk

I know next to nothing about car audio systems....

I' am gonna purchase a Swift ZXi within the next 2 months (In Chennai)...


* Budget: 25-30K:

40% - latest fast beat songs (filmi songs)
30% - melodies from films
30% - Pop & Hip hop (English)

Preference to a setup for which i get warranty & bill for all the system components...I guess that leaves me with only Sony.....Please Correct me if i'am wrong....

Can anyone suggest me a complete Sony setup which bests suits my kind of music & budget.....?

Is a all-Sony Setup good or Bad?
.

Hi Senthil,

Welcome to our small little sub-section of team-BHP. Let me answer your questions.
25-30K is a fairly decent budget for a good sytem. However with that budget, i woulod not suggest you buy anything from Sony. Their Head Units are pretty OK, but their speakers really truly suck.
Today in India it is possible to buy almost all brands with Bill and warranty.

I would suggest you buy a good HU from Blaupunkt/Alpine/Pioneer and speakers from any reputed comapny that specialises in making speakers.
For your swift, i can suggest a 6" component set for the front, a 6" co-axial speaker for the rear, a 4channel amplifier and a bass tube/box. You should be able to manage all of that in around 30K.
Cheers and enjoy the rains in Hyderabad.... I know I am.

[navin]

30K....

You can get a good HU for 8K. Front components for 6K and rear coax for 3K. that makes it 17K. Add a small 4 ch. amp for 5K and a small sub for 7K.

HU: Blaupunkt/ Pioneer/ Clarion/ Sony
Speakers: Alpine Type S, JBL
Amp: Sony (554)
Sub: JBL's 12" tube is cheaper but for 2K more the 12" box offers better defined bass in my opinion.

Listen to a few before you buy. You will be better informed.

[Vivekphadnis]

Hello boys, how are things going here?

[Sam Kapasi]

very good MR. DIY...
So how is your subwoofer project getting along?

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

very good MR. DIY...
So how is your subwoofer project getting along?

Hasn't he been making that subwoofer since 1846?



That reminds me, when I started ICE-ing my SUV, Jesus used to be around.

[low_bass_makker]

hai yaar what happen to ur aluminium subs without magnets....lol

[binz]

Heyy guys...sorry to disturb your "sub" convo.But I really want to know what would be the difference in putting 6" "components" rather than 6" "coaxials" in the front doors of a swift.Note Will be using 6x9 in the rear with a sub.

binz

[navin]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Hasn't he been making that subwoofer since 1846?



That reminds me, when I started ICE-ing my SUV, Jesus used to be around.

that makes the 2 of you older than me. A lot older! YAY!!!!!!!

[binz]

Ahem!Some help please...its pretty urgent coz my dad will be picking them up tomorrow morning..

[jinu_joseph]

Hi Folks
I have a query.. in many threads i noticed the recommendation generally for people on a budget to use the best amp for the fronts and the sub and use the weaker second amp for the rears. What i would like to understand is:

1. How do you sync the two amps... isnt is possible that the amplification provided by the 2 amps will be different for the same increase in volume from the head unit.
2. Also if the amps are from different companies there could be more trouble. I dont know the technical terms, but when it is recommended that the speaker brands for front and rear be the same I am sure that having amps from different brands powering the front and rear is asking for trouble ?

And one more general question:
1. Should the speaker have a RMS rating higher than that of the amp powering it or is it vice versa.

What say guys.
thanks for answering this.. especially if this is a stupid/dumb question

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by binz

Heyy guys...sorry to disturb your "sub" convo.But I really want to know what would be the difference in putting 6" "components" rather than 6" "coaxials" in the front doors of a swift.Note Will be using 6x9 in the rear with a sub.

binz

u drive? if so; use compo. they work well 80Hz up or so. Co-ax does frm 20Hz to 20KHz and hence wont be so gr8 like compos.

jinu; tuning is a serious job. and I suggest amp frm same company. I kwn' when my Blau amp switches on and when my Pio amp switches on.

and yes; speaker should be more powerful/rated tahn amp!


Navin; enlighten pls

[binz]

Originally Posted by jkdas

they work well 80Hz up or so. Co-ax does frm 20Hz to 20KHz and hence wont be so gr8 like compos.

but when the hu and the amp both have a lpf* why would the co-axials play frequencies from 20Hz?

*Its my understanding that lpf means that sound frequencies below 80hz is produced by the sub.Is this right?

Originally Posted by jkdas

you drive

Is that an ice term?If so then i didnt understand.

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by jinu_joseph

1. How do you sync the two amps... isnt is possible that the amplification provided by the 2 amps will be different for the same increase in volume from the head unit.
2. Also if the amps are from different companies there could be more trouble. I dont know the technical terms, but when it is recommended that the speaker brands for front and rear be the same I am sure that having amps from different brands powering the front and rear is asking for trouble And one more general question:
1. Should the speaker have a RMS rating higher than that of the amp powering it or is it vice versa.

1) u can adjsut the volume from the gain control of the amps....and from the hu also if the feature is present there....

2) I dont think different brands would make difference much for a normal setup except for a high one also one more reason if the amps are installed toghter at one place similer model would look good...

1) this is a very debateable topic every person has different theory for this but from my side for example

100 watts rms speaker and 125 watts rms amp .. there would always be headroom left and the speaker would not go in to clipping.....

[jinu_joseph]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

1) this is a very debateable topic every person has different theory for this but from my side for example

100 watts rms speaker and 125 watts rms amp .. there would always be headroom left and the speaker would not go in to clipping.....

But wouldnt this mean that if i pushed the amp real high it would blow/burn/damage the speaker ??