[prince85]

and yea i forgot to mention

RMS Power 4ohm Stereo: 4x130.

[mclaren1885]

Originally Posted by prince85

I am getting this amp for 11.5k and i am more leaning towards it coz it will give a lot of rms to my sub i.e. 400watts rms. Hope i am right.
So i just thought that if i go in for this amp it will be better suited for the JBL sub-box that i am planning to go in for. Please correct me if i am wrong here.

well figures dont say everything that a product is capable of doing..at times u may have figures being hyped up just to sell in the market..so let not the figures alone be the deciding factor..as usual we always say listen to the stuff first and let ur ears do the rest..

earthquake is not that heard of atleast here at the moment,so it would be hard to tell unless and until one of us come across it..so would suggest not to experiment with a moderately new brand in the market unless and until u have done a thorough research on the company and its products..now that coming from me might sound weird to quite a lot here..hehe..aint it guys..

btw amps need to give out some clean,soothing sound and very smooth at that..in a way its hard to explain what exactly u need to expect from a good amp unless and until u witness it urself..say like connect ur speakers to a sony 504 and listen carefully,then switch to a 6100,then to a blau and then to an alpine and listen carefully..through every change ul find the sound to be richer in quality and smoother too..thats the sound of a good amp,so unless and until u hear one..its a toughie to go for one with ur eyes closed unless and until that amp has already made a name in the market..like i said take a decision after listening to it or stick to the alpines,blaus,pios whichever suit ur needs..and dont let the figures do the talking if u want a satisfying system to sway ur head to..

[navin]

prince,

the 6100 would be my pick if you want to drive a sub at a later point. the alpines are good but even the 240 (smallest) is 11K. the alpine 240 sound sweeter with your front and rear speakers but wont drive your sub like the 6100 will.

[milindbajekal]

Guys and Gals,

This is an update to my earlier post. Thanks to Navin and jkdas, I finally made up my mind on the kind of setup I wanted. To recap, I own a Tata Indigo GLS, and wanted a system below 17K Rupees. I also thought it better to buy all items from one Brand name.

It is a basic 'entry level' setup, (in my opinion).

My setup is as follows:

Head Unit: Blaupunkt Bermuda MP35; Price 4,222.27

Front Speakers: BGX 402; Price 1,333.35

Rear Speakers: THX 693; Price 7,511.20 (6 inches diameter). This is not 'default'. So the installation may require the guy to create a bigger frame? ( or whatever it is to make the cavity bigger).

Tax: 1633.35

Total Bill : 14,700

Freebies Given with purchase: Fake Leather? CD Case, Blaupunkt Coffee Mug, Blaupunkt Tissue box.
1 year Warranty and 2 year anti-theft insurance.

What I have written below is just my opinion and not a review, since I am not a techie when it comes to audio. So please read it as purely a users opionion.

Pros: In my laymans opinion, it is a good buy. I am happy with the sound and everything. Good Bass and clarity. The Head Unit display is adequately visible even in daylight. I feel this is a plus. You can connect an iPod ( if you have one.. I don't).

Cons: I am a backseat rider (have driver). So remote was essential. The remote is not very 'powerful'. I have to literally aim the remote in a particular fashion, and only then it works. A little irritating if you want to quickly decrease the volume. Also the remote is very 'basic'. You can adjust volume / Mute, change FM/AM to CD, Scan for available channels. What you cannot do is adjust the 'advanced' features such as Bass level, treble level, changing presets such as Rock, Jazz etc. Also you cannot, (at least I could not figure it out even after reading the manual), go to a preset radio FM or AM channel . You have to scan the channel everytime.

The CD eject button is small and located very near the button that detaches the Head Unit 'console'? (or whatever the detachable thing is called). So if the car suddenly jerks when you are trying to eject the CD, you might end up detaching the console.

Conclusion: I am happy with my purchase overall.

The above was purchased from Autosonics in Mumbai, which is an authorized Blaupunkt outlet, located at Bandra S.V. Road (near Suburbia). If you ar coming from Linking road it is behind Shoppers Stop Bandra.

I am writing these details, in case someone else is looking for a similar setup.

What do you all think of my purchase?

[Shrey]

Originally Posted by navin

so the amp is connected to the rear and front speakers right?

does the amp has HPF and LPF filters for the front and rear? I have heard the 504 but not seen the amp in detail so I dont know this.

as far as the door rattling is concerned the best solution is some damping material on the door. dynamat is an expensive option but i am told by others that there are other subsittues.

if the resonance freq. of a door is excited it will get excited even at low volumes although the resonance will be less noticeable.

Yes Navin,

Amp(504) is connected to Front and Rear Speakers.
It has Low Pass & High Pass Filters for the Rear and Front.

How much Dynamat costs and what are the other viable options?
where do i have to place this damping material? I understand that i have to cut out a ring/spacer from the damping material and put it between speakers and door sheet before securing speakers with screws.

My rear speakers(JBL 256 Co-axials) are of no match to front component woofers(Cs606) in handling the Bass, they simply sound horrible when played a bit loud.

I tried changinging the connections, and used the HPF(amps) for front and LPF(again amps) for Rear, Now whatever bass i had is gone, because, front woofers are not playing frequencies below 80Hz, and Rear are not capable of Handling those below 80Hz.

what is the solution? LPF is it only meant for Subwoofer?
or do i reverse the connection as earlier, i.e front speakers on Rear channel of Amp and keeping LPF off. and Rear speakers on front channel of Amp and keep HPF on , so that poor speakers at the back(GTO256JBL) play frequencies bearable by it.

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by milindbajekal

Guys and Gals,

This is an update to my earlier post. Thanks to Navin and jkdas, I finally made up my mind on the kind of setup I wanted. To recap, I own a Tata Indigo GLS, and wanted a system below 17K Rupees. I also thought it better to buy all items from one Brand name.

It is a basic 'entry level' setup, (in my opinion).

My setup is as follows:

Head Unit: Blaupunkt Bermuda MP35; Price 4,222.27

Front Speakers: BGX 402; Price 1,333.35

Rear Speakers: Price 7,511.20 (6 inches diameter). This is not 'default'. So the installation may require the guy to create a bigger frame? ( or whatever it is to make the cavity bigger).

Tax: 1633.35
Total Bill : 14,700

I am writing these details, in case someone else is looking for a similar setup.

What do you all think of my purchase?

And you pay taxes too in time YOu even quoted those paise!

I think yours would be the second all Blau setup we have in our forum and glad that you are happy.

The prices you got the HU did surprise me! and should surprise others here! A Blau HU for less than 5k! wow.

But wasnt the 6x9 too costly? You could have saved some money there I guess. THx series are slimmer ones and hence costly.

[rsjaurr]

Originally Posted by Shrey

Yes Navin,

Amp(504) is connected to Front and Rear Speakers.
It has Low Pass & High Pass Filters for the Rear and Front.

How much Dynamat costs and what are the other viable options?
where do i have to place this damping material? I understand that i have to cut out a ring/spacer from the damping material and put it between speakers and door sheet before securing speakers with screws.

My rear speakers(JBL 256 Co-axials) are of no match to front component woofers(Cs606) in handling the Bass, they simply sound horrible when played a bit loud.

I tried changinging the connections, and used the HPF(amps) for front and LPF(again amps) for Rear, Now whatever bass i had is gone, because, front woofers are not playing frequencies below 80Hz, and Rear are not capable of Handling those below 80Hz.

what is the solution? LPF is it only meant for Subwoofer?
or do i reverse the connection as earlier, i.e front speakers on Rear channel of Amp and keeping LPF off. and Rear speakers on front channel of Amp and keep HPF on , so that poor speakers at the back(GTO256JBL) play frequencies bearable by it.

Hey shrey.........HPF r for door speakers and LPF is meant to drive subw.

Just set all door speakers on HPF.These r not meant to handle lower freq.Cant figure out why u want to set rear spekers on LPF.

Inirially keep the HPF at 100 and then try to reduce it to ur choice.

And I hope u know HPF/LPF!!!!!!

[Shrey]

Originally Posted by rsjaurr

Hey shrey.........HPF r for door speakers and LPF is meant to drive subw.

Just set all door speakers on HPF.These r not meant to handle lower freq.Cant figure out why u want to set rear spekers on LPF.

Inirially keep the HPF at 100 and then try to reduce it to ur choice.

And I hope u know HPF/LPF!!!!!!

Hi! Thanx for replying.

My rear speaker are not in parallel to Front i.e My Amp is a 4 channel one. and Front speakers are one front channel of Amp having HPF, and Rear speakers are on Rear channel of Amp with LPF. Now only option i have is, to keep LPF to OFF and keep my HPF ON for Front Speakers.

And my Amp has only one cut off Limit of 80Hz for both HPF and LPF.

[navin]

just set all 4 ch. to HPF. do not use any LPF unless you have a sub. if you do not have HPF on all 4 channels do not use LPF, let that channel run fullrange and use a bass blocker to kill any resonance. a bass blocker is simply a big capacitpr. take 2 470uf/63V electrolyic caps and solder them so that their +ve leads are joined. then connect one -ve lead to the amp and the other to the speaker. to improve sound quality you can get a 2uf/100 ployester cap and solder that across the 2 -ve leads.

[SRK]

guys i need the user manual for pioneer piy ,does anyone know from where can i get one pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee.

[gunbir]

Originally Posted by SRK

guys i need the user manual for pioneer piy ,does anyone know from where can i get one pleaseeeeeeeeeeeee.

Wish granted.

http://www.pioneer.com.sg/storefront/manual/DEH-P1Y.pdf

[Shrey]

Originally Posted by navin

just set all 4 ch. to HPF. do not use any LPF unless you have a sub. if you do not have HPF on all 4 channels do not use LPF, let that channel run fullrange and use a bass blocker to kill any resonance. a bass blocker is simply a big capacitpr. take 2 470uf/63V electrolyic caps and solder them so that their +ve leads are joined. then connect one -ve lead to the amp and the other to the speaker. to improve sound quality you can get a 2uf/100 ployester cap and solder that across the 2 -ve leads.

I understand from what you have suggested, the connection for Bass Blocker, is it like this?
wherein two electrolytic capacitirs of 470microF/63V are joined back to back?
Explain second suggestion for improving sound quality as well, where do i have to connect 2microF/100V polyster capacitor, which two -ve leads?

[Shrey]

Or is it like this? for both SQ and Bass Blocker

[navin]

dude you got it. well done.

[Shrey]

Originally Posted by navin

dude you got it. well done.

Okey! so you suggest me to connect this between Amp and rear Speakers(one on both)

How are the values of Cap. arrived. I mean if these are universal or what frequency cut they provide? ie at frequency below what values are blocked in this case?

Navin, Please answer my second question as well, where do i have to put the damping material(eg. Dynamat)? Can i use some other substitute like polyfoam etc, but where to put?