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Old 9th December 2005, 11:27   #2536
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i dont know about this. i still think the best method is to get an ipod (or otherHU compatible MP3 player).

my ipod stores my entire music collection (every song, every CD, every artist) this way I can choose what to listen even as I am changing gears. ok it is not so intiutive with an Alpine but with the iDrive it could be. I lave my ipod in the car over night but not over the day as I am afraid about in car tempretures.

Also I just checked out the new Alpines (9855, 53, 47) and they are more ipod compatible than the older ones (9830, 33). What I mean is that the 9847 was able to seach faster than the 9830. did not do a detail check on the 53 and 55 but I assume they would be faster than the 9833.
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Old 9th December 2005, 12:12   #2537
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Hi Sam,

Please refer my earlier post#2516
reagrding setting the Gain on my Sony 504 amplifier.
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Old 9th December 2005, 12:44   #2538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrey
Navin, Sam,
HU: Sony7710 Rs.9700/= (without Bill & warranty)
Amp: Sony 504: Rs4500/= (with warranty)
Front: 606ce Rs.5750/ = (with Warranty)
Rear: CS265 6" 2-way Co-axials Rs.2500(with warranty)

Both Front & Rear channels are powered by the Amp.
One more blunder the fitter did is, that he's connected the Rear channel speakers on front channel of HU or Amp i suppose, because when i switch on the LPF settings on my Amp, the Front Speakers(rather Tweeters) stop sounding at all(almost).
LPF setting on the amp are for a subwoofer not a speaker. the speakers are connected to the amp but when you switch the low pass on you are removing all the freq. except the very low stuff.
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Old 9th December 2005, 14:46   #2539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
LPF setting on the amp are for a subwoofer not a speaker. the speakers are connected to the amp but when you switch the low pass on you are removing all the freq. except the very low stuff.
Navin,

what i want to do is, use HPF for the front channel, and for Rear channel keeping LPF switch to OFF position. This way i won't be sending frequencies below 80Hz to my component Speakers, which are designed for frequency band 55Hz and above till upper limit( i don't remember the upper limit)

Also when i turn the volume up, the speakers/doors start thuddering. Is it natuarl frequency of door or something else? Can i change gain settings of Amp to resolve the problem, because, when i need suffecient amount of volume for mids & highs, i get this door rattling may be because of Bass?

If yes, then what is the correct procedure to set Gain of Amplifier?

Help
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Old 9th December 2005, 15:33   #2540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
Sony has launched a new player that allows users to drag and drop MP3 files directly onto the player's hard drive without the need to use its Connect music software.

Called the Giga Panel, the car stereo will have 1Gb of flash memory on board. Users will be able to connect the removable face-plate directly to their PC (and presumably an Apple Mac) via a USB2.0 connection to transfer around 500 songs to and from the device.

http://www.pocket-lint.co.uk/news.php?newsId=2022


At least its better than what we have now.Lets hope its flash memory increases in near future.
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Old 9th December 2005, 15:45   #2541
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Help for subwoofer box building & installation

I have purchased a JL Audio w1v2 10" subwoofer and plan to get this installed in a Maruti Swift. I chose this particular model because of low mounting depth and small size of enclosure required (0.625 cubic ft.).

I dont want the subwoofer box to take much / any space in the boot and hence was considering a sealed spare wheel enclosure - to get the subwoofer to fit in the spare wheel by inverting the spare wheel.

Had seen a few installation snaps on the net ... pasting them here.
[img=http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/6668/collage12nn.th.jpg]
Would it be advisable to the same ??

Could someone please suggest a installer in Mumbai who could do this for me ? (fibreglass box)

I would also like to know of some place which would build me a subwoofer box if the above setup would not be possible.

I would also like to know of some good installer based in Mumbai (preferably in the western suburbs). I have purchased my system from the US. (Components : Diamond Audio d661s (6.5 inch components), Head Unit: Alpine 9830 (from old setup) Amplifier: Alpine MRV F345, Subwoofer: JL Audio 10w1v2)
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Old 9th December 2005, 16:18   #2542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsjaurr
At least its better than what we have now.Lets hope its flash memory increases in near future.
It doesnt support atrac 3, which I dont mind . And aint 1Gb enough for you.
It would be out by feb 06 and would cost 329pounds ( says the website)

Last edited by jkdas : 9th December 2005 at 16:20.
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Old 9th December 2005, 16:48   #2543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrey

what i want to do is, use HPF for the front channel, and for Rear channel keeping LPF switch to OFF position. This way i won't be sending frequencies below 80Hz to my component Speakers, which are designed for frequency band 55Hz and above till upper limit( i don't remember the upper limit)

Also when i turn the volume up, the speakers/doors start thuddering. Is it natuarl frequency of door or something else?
so the amp is connected to the rear and front speakers right?

does the amp has HPF and LPF filters for the front and rear? I have heard the 504 but not seen the amp in detail so I dont know this.

as far as the door rattling is concerned the best solution is some damping material on the door. dynamat is an expensive option but i am told by others that there are other subsittues.

if the resonance freq. of a door is excited it will get excited even at low volumes although the resonance will be less noticeable.
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Old 9th December 2005, 16:59   #2544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdas
It doesnt support atrac 3, which I dont mind . And aint 1Gb enough for you.
It would be out by feb 06 and would cost 329pounds ( says the website)


Jk ........typical human nature is....more is better.In audio cd format it will support only around 20 songs.atleast better than having HD based HU player like clarion.


Anyway who wants to talk about sony when i am getting alpine 9853 by jan mid. [bought but in USA at present]

But still its nice to starts with a new technology.Just thionk about when memeory will be >10gb........no need to burn cd and spend valueable time in doing this.
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Old 9th December 2005, 17:41   #2545
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In Car Audio for Baleno

Guess this question might already have been addressed in this thread before, but it's tough searching thru for the correct post :(

Could you help me chose the right audio for my baleno? Planning 4"/6"??? JBL fronts and 6" Infinity rears... Which HU should I go for? Considering that I might plan to upgrade to an amp. later.

How much would I be required to shell out for such a setup?

Will appreciate your comments...

Cheers...

Irwin
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Old 9th December 2005, 18:31   #2546
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decent setup should put you back by 15 - 17 k minimum.you can put 6 inch comp speakers in the front which will cost you 6k approx and rears 4500 approx and a good head unit should put you back by about 7k.so it all really depends on how much your willing to sheel out.


rev
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Old 9th December 2005, 21:20   #2547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipsanand
Guess this question might already have been addressed in this thread before, but it's tough searching thru for the correct post :(

Could you help me chose the right audio for my baleno? Planning 4"/6"??? JBL fronts and 6" Infinity rears... Which HU should I go for? Considering that I might plan to upgrade to an amp. later.

How much would I be required to shell out for such a setup?

Will appreciate your comments...

Cheers...

Irwin
I think revtech has a baleno, so his inputs will be helpful to you.

A question we ask : Whats your budget?

Another thing we recommend: Stick to same company speakers, ie, stay with all Infinity setup etc...

Would you be adding a sub later on with the amp? An amp if used to power the front speaker and/or back speaker will give you a much better SQ.

And lastly, I think you better get components for the front and 6x9 OR 6inch coax for rear.

HU choice is upto you. Sony and Pio frm 5k, Alpine from 12-13k, etc...
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Old 9th December 2005, 22:14   #2548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swapnilb75
I have purchased a JL Audio w1v2 10" subwoofer and plan to get this installed in a Maruti Swift. I chose this particular model because of low mounting depth and small size of enclosure required (0.625 cubic ft.).


I dont want the subwoofer box to take much / any space in the boot and hence was considering a sealed spare wheel enclosure - to get the subwoofer to fit in the spare wheel by inverting the spare wheel.

Had seen a few installation snaps on the net ... pasting them here.
[img=http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/6668/collage12nn.th.jpg]
Would it be advisable to the same ??

Could someone please suggest a installer in Mumbai who could do this for me ? (fibreglass box)

I would also like to know of some place which would build me a subwoofer box if the above setup would not be possible.

I would also like to know of some good installer based in Mumbai (preferably in the western suburbs). I have purchased my system from the US. (Components : Diamond Audio d661s (6.5 inch components), Head Unit: Alpine 9830 (from old setup) Amplifier: Alpine MRV F345, Subwoofer: JL Audio 10w1v2)


You can get the fibre glass enclosure done. I don't know anyone in Bombay..maybe Navin, Sam can help you.

What is the impedance of your sub...is it 4ohm SVC or 8ohm.

Though In my opinion 10" JL running of your alpine will give decent bass not too much. W1's dun handle much of power. Do take into account 0.025 cuft of driver displacement. So your actual box volume should be 0.65 cuft.

Make sure you make the walls thick, to stop resonances make sure you damp the box from inside and outside. The top baffle should be minimum 0.75".

Cheers
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Old 9th December 2005, 22:14   #2549
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swapnilb75
I have purchased a JL Audio w1v2 10" subwoofer and plan to get this installed in a Maruti Swift. I chose this particular model because of low mounting depth and small size of enclosure required (0.625 cubic ft.).


I dont want the subwoofer box to take much / any space in the boot and hence was considering a sealed spare wheel enclosure - to get the subwoofer to fit in the spare wheel by inverting the spare wheel.

Had seen a few installation snaps on the net ... pasting them here.
[img=http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/6668/collage12nn.th.jpg]
Would it be advisable to the same ??

Could someone please suggest a installer in Mumbai who could do this for me ? (fibreglass box)

I would also like to know of some place which would build me a subwoofer box if the above setup would not be possible.

I would also like to know of some good installer based in Mumbai (preferably in the western suburbs). I have purchased my system from the US. (Components : Diamond Audio d661s (6.5 inch components), Head Unit: Alpine 9830 (from old setup) Amplifier: Alpine MRV F345, Subwoofer: JL Audio 10w1v2)


You can get the fibre glass enclosure done. I don't know anyone in Bombay..maybe Navin, Sam can help you.

What is the impedance of your sub...is it 4ohm SVC or 8ohm.

Though In my opinion 10" JL running of your alpine will give decent bass not too much. W1's dun handle much of power. Do take into account 0.025 cuft of driver displacement. So your actual box volume should be 0.65 cuft.

Make sure you make the walls thick, to stop resonances make sure you damp the box from inside and outside. The top baffle should be minimum 0.75".

Cheers
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Old 10th December 2005, 10:29   #2550
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile
Make sure you make the walls thick, to stop resonances make sure you damp the box from inside and outside. The top baffle should be minimum 0.75".[/left]
baffle aside you can get away with thnner walls if you use resin bonded fiberglass damped with lead sheet or dynamat. the idea is that the box be acoustically dead. if you rap the box with your knucles you should not create any hollow drum/tabla like sound.
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