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Originally Posted by Rocketscience The rears have known to be much less loud in many cars but curiously in many of them when I got the speakers changed the drivers along with the rear magnets and markings on them seem identical, no idea why?
A curious case along with an accidental solution was discovered by me in my first gen i20, so I was disappointed by its audio quality and decided to get all the speakers changed, I narrowed down to JBL Power Series and they sounded fantastic in the store but once installed in my car they sounded garbage and the volume level was too low even at max, the car accessories guy suggested either a infotainment system change but that would have ruined the then great looking interiors of the car or otherwise adding an amplifier but I had anyways spent the entire 25-30K or so of budget allocated by dad on speakers and good quality damping. (I was 17 then and although it was my first car, I was not yet driving it, dad was before I turned 18 a few months later)
The solution anyways found was using AUX, I tried my then phone Nokia 5800 and the output was instantly better, I then tried iPod Touch and the output was better + louder. Then I tried my iPod Nano and that was the ultimate solution, the volume level was dramatically louder, the sound quality was night and day better and the system came to life!
It was like switching from a poor quality cassette system to a Pioneer CD system, although I didn't have mic or the knowledge of audio spectrum then, the HU for some reason had poor output when playing CDs or USB drives directly but using AUX when the DAC part was being handled by external device, the best of which was iPod Nano, the characteristics changed.
It should be worth persuing with different input modes by you as well, no matter how redundant it would feel.
Another example is, in my Honda City 4th Gen the audio quality between Bluetooth mode and USB using Pen Drive or iPod connected was indistinguishable and great in both cases but in Creta (1st Gen SX), the USB quality is great but using bluetooth, the quality is way worse, not only is the bottom end punch missing but the top end too is non existent and there are audible cracks and pops in louder sections of songs making it completely unusable.
Bottomline, do check all the modes one by one and in detail, you might be surprised to find the variances. |
The difference in sound between Bluetooth/CD vs AUX/iPOD is due to processing happening within infotainment where as in case of Aux its a pass-through (no processing happens, 2 analog channels in and 4 amplified analog channels out), and in the case of iPOD - it's via apple inbuild DAC which is much better compared to the infotainment processessing.
I know this cause many years back I was working with ETON in designing their home audio speakers(majorly their Mobile apps and firmware integration) and AUX was always a passthrough on the board with no processing happening.
Unfortunately, Baleno has only 3 input source
- CarPlay/AA (I will 99.9% of the time will use this)
- USB
- Bluetooth
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Originally Posted by alpha1 Which peaks are you referring to? The one between 50-55 Hz?
I think it would actually sound better rather than worse compared to a ruler flat frequency response.
What is the green smooth line? |
If you look at my first post, there are 5 images, the first 2 are from front Left and right. If you look at it, the peaks are at 60hz, 200hz, 1Khz, 5Khz etc, The one you are referring to is my eq'd curve which is much smoother. And indeed it sounds much nicer everything just blends better, The boost at 60hz is something I have to re-eq since it is a little bass-heavy sound that I am getting at the moment. I actually wanted to try this way.
The green line is called the house curve a kind of target response that you want to align for a signal response from a speaker while correcting the response
There are many house curves :
- JBL
- Whiteledge
- Flat
- Jazzi's and so on.
JBL is the most common house curve used
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Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble Instead of measuring with a mic why dont you tap into the speaker line, perhaps reduce the level to line level using a line output converter and feed that to a RTA? That way you eliminate the acoustics completely and get the exact EQ applied to the signal.
Then use the input EQ section of a DSP to flatten the signal and finally apply DSP as required in the output section.
The only things an RTA wont be able to catch are things like delays etc applied to any of the channels in high end OEM systems, but I dont think Maruti infotainment must be using any. |
Awesome questions, however here is my thought which may differ from others,
1. I need an analog RTA to tap into one of the speaker line which is quite expensive compared to an RTA mic($40)
2. I believe EQ is always done based on the environment. Each speaker works differently and we have to tackle the curve according to the speakers and environment, for ex, with the same set of EQ, 2 different brands of speakers will sound completely different. In fact, my left is 1.5db louder then right with same EQ and this is normal. no 2 speakers are manufactured identical.
3. with RTA Mic, you can see the dips(sound cancellation) and the peaks happening because of sound reflections.
remember most of what we hear is from sound reflection in a closed environment, and hence It is always better to eq the system within the environment, The line level RTA can only tell me how the signal is coming from the source not how it performs or sounds from a speaker
With RTA using Mic, you can not only eq, but can do time alignment, phase alignment, independent speaker leveling etc