[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by 2500cc

Experts, What video formats can I play on avh-5590bt ?

It would support video playback for 'DivX/MPEG-1, -2, -4' formats via USB port.

[cUjO]

1. Your Car: I20 2010 Asta Diesel

2. Your current setup (If any): HU and Speakers(OEM).It has the steering controls as well. (I would like to retain the HU if possible)

3. Your Budget: 60K INR+(-10K)

4. Do you drive most of the time or is it chauffer driven? I drive it personally

5. Your Music preferences (Genres, favorite artists, etc.): Metal,( Death/grind-core/Doom/), Hard-rock, Classic Rock, Hip Hop.

Additional Information:
I have the OEM-HU which sounds decent but I feel they are under-powered although the clarity can be put up with.Its very difficult to identify the instruments clearly in Metal, especially the bass-lines, from an already low set of frequencies most of Metal music is at. I would like to especially focus on clarity with a good amount of Bass.( Looking at a dual Sub setup). Studio level sq? (Am I allowed to be that greedy?)
Also is a 5.1 audio system available for this budget? Or is it only for the Premium segment cars(I am looking at you Audi!)

6. Are you ready to sacrifice your boot space/modify door panels? : Absolutely!

[Thumper1604]

Hey bhpians,

A quick question. Can Blaupunkt DSP 470 amp support Rockford Fosgate R2D2 Sub by bridging 2 channels?

Thanks

[cUjO]

Originally Posted by cUjO

1. Your Car: I20 2010 Asta Diesel

2. Your current setup (If any): HU and Speakers(OEM).It has the steering controls as well. (I would like to retain the HU if possible)

3. Your Budget: 60K INR+(-10K)

4. Do you drive most of the time or is it chauffer driven? I drive it personally

5. Your Music preferences (Genres, favorite artists, etc.): Metal,( Death/grind-core/Doom/), Hard-rock, Classic Rock, Hip Hop.

Additional Information:
I have the OEM-HU which sounds decent but I feel they are under-powered although the clarity can be put up with.Its very difficult to identify the instruments clearly in Metal, especially the bass-lines, from an already low set of frequencies most of Metal music is at. I would like to especially focus on clarity with a good amount of Bass.( Looking at a dual Sub setup). Studio level sq? (Am I allowed to be that greedy?)
Also is a 5.1 audio system available for this budget? Or is it only for the Premium segment cars(I am looking at you Audi!)

6. Are you ready to sacrifice your boot space/modify door panels? : Absolutely!

Hey guys! I have another addon to the above mentioned subwoofer problem. Would it be better to have a couple of 8/10 inchers or a couple of 12 inches for heavy metal? Would the delay be acceptable in case of the 12 inchers? I haven't found any good info on a good sound setup for my kind of music anywhere on the web. hence the experts here in TBHP are my last resort! Help!!

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Thumper1604

... Can Blaupunkt DSP 470 amp support Rockford Fosgate R2D2 Sub by bridging 2 channels? ...

Yes it can.

Originally Posted by cUjO

... Would the delay be acceptable in case of the 12 inchers? ...

What delay are you referring to here - the ability of the cone to keep up? Or integration with the front image?

[cUjO]

Hey DerAlte!
I am definitely looking at the ability of the cone to keep up to the challenge of playing music over 200BPM and to keep the soundstage integration as tight as possible. From my experience with metal, especially those with blast beats, it gets extremely difficult to seperate the different instruments especially the bass drum and the bass guitar when there is tons of distortion and speed involved. I wanted to know if the 12 inchers in a pair would only justify hiphop/edm type of music( which I enjoy as well) or if I may need to compromise with the size there so that it would do fine on any of these genres. This is what is confusing, as I feel it would effect the overall setup budget.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by cUjO

... ability of the cone to keep up to the challenge of playing music over 200BPM ... if the 12 inchers in a pair would only justify hiphop/edm type of music ...

200 BPM: Most of this is actually handled by the mid-bass, not the sub. Your midbass needs to be really good. Infinity Kappa, Rainbow, DLS, Morel, JL Audio - high end models.

The sub has to have a light stiff cone (fiber glass, carbon fibre, specially treated paper, etc.), not something that buckles on large rapid cone movement.

If someone has Infinity Kappa 120.9 sub in their car, take your music along and listen to it on their system to audition it. There are fast subs from Ground Zero, JL Audio, and a few others - you have to search for what is available in the market.

Hip-hop bass - loud resonant electronic bass - is easy to reproduce in even low cost subs, especially with ported enclosures. But, the problem with these is the boominess (self resonance in box). EDM would work best with sealed enclosures. A fast sub will be able to smoothly handle Hip-hop and EDM bass.

Whether 8+12", 10+10" or 12+12" or a single 12 or 15" is a matter of how loud you want to go (more cone area = more air moved = louder bass). If fast low bass is irreplaceable for you, you may also need to use a Mono amp just to drive the sub.

[schakravarthy]

I noticed these small indentations(?) on the front right speaker ( a 4 year old Bolt from Lightning Audio ).
Is this normal? If it is a damage, is it a serious one validating a change of speaker or can it be ignored?
I haven't noticed any change in sound quality from the speaker.

[greenhorn]

if there is no sounds coming from the speaker - rubbing or vibrations etc, don't bother. speakers are hardy and can survive a lot of mechanical damage

[harsha.muvva]

Hey all,

I am now having a strange problem,
I have rockford fosgate POWER components in my i20,i have been observing clipping of sound at little higher volumes(it was scary,it gave me feeling as if the speakers might get burnt)

So we openend the door pads and found few exposed wiring(thanks to hyundai,i guess this happend when i gave for denting work),so sealed all of them with insulating tape and put clamps where ever necessary.
It was all fine for a week.
Then again the same problem cropped up, but this time when i have set the fader to Rear(completely) it was all fine.So the problem was with front speaker.

So openend up the front ones and then came the shock. Cross over of the front left speaker had some loose resistors/what ever they are called.
The guys who were working on my car said that they it couldnt be repaired.

So i am now wondering how to proceed with that,
Is it possible to source the cross over alone or else i need to buy a new set of speakers?

Now i have removed cross-over,disconnected tweeter and directly powered the speaker from AMP.
Needless to say that it isnt sounding even half good as it was before.

Waiting to hear from guru's here.

Regards,
Harsha

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by harsha.muvva

... I am now having a strange problem,
I have rockford fosgate POWER components in my i20 ...

Your first action should be to take it to the dealer, or go directly to the agency which deals in servicing RF products (amps, components etc.). From your description it looks like it is a problem that can be easily sorted out by a competent technician.

[harsha.muvva]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Your first action should be to take it to the dealer, or go directly to the agency which deals in servicing RF products

Thanks for the prompt reply.

Unfortunately,i bought these speakers from US,so i dont think these guys do the repair or not.

The RF sub-dealer here said that the cross-over need to be replaced and says it cant be repaired.

Will post the pics of the cross-over once i am back in town

Regards,
Harsha

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by harsha.muvva

... i bought these speakers from US,so i dont think these guys do the repair or not. ...

They will. At most you will have to pay service charges, since there is no warranty.

Originally Posted by harsha.muvva

... The RF sub-dealer here said that the cross-over need to be replaced and says it cant be repaired. ...

A cross-over is a very simple circuit, with less than a handful of components. The "sub-dealer" (retailer?) is angling to make you buy a new pair of components. Quite sure his quote for replacement of cross-overs will be just about the same as that of a new pair of components!

[navin]

Originally Posted by harsha.muvva

The RF sub-dealer here said that the cross-over need to be replaced and says it cant be repaired.

Originally Posted by harsha.muvva

i have been observing clipping of sound at little higher volumes(it was scary,it gave me feeling as if the speakers might get burnt)

So openend up the front ones and then came the shock. Cross over of the front left speaker had some loose resistors/what ever they are called.
The guys who were working on my car said that they it couldnt be repaired.

Harsha,

Your speaker's crossover wil have 3 types of passive components. Resistors, Capacitors, and Inductors.

The only ones that can fail (in practical circumstances) are the capacitors and the one that I worry most about is the series capacitor of the tweeter's XO. If a cap fails it goes short and that means the tweeter will have NO protection.

Fortunately from the symptoms you describe this does not seem to be the case with your system.

If some of the components have come loose simply soldering them back should resovle the issue. I would do this first.

However the symptoms you descirbe do not nesscarily seem to originiate from the crossover. I suspect that your front speakers are getting too much LF (more than they can handle) and hence are "hitting their Xmax" which means that the cone cant move any more than they are. The solution for this is a 'bass blocker'. A bass blaocker is simply a cap (around 250uf) in series with the woofer. To do this all you need to do is solder 2 470uf (this will give you about 235uf but it is close enough) back to back see link below
http://frienergi.alternativkanalen.c...iler/Fig85.gif

more here.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...t-install.html

Originally Posted by schakravarthy

I noticed these small indentations(?) on the front right speaker ( a 4 year old Bolt from Lightning Audio ). Is this normal?.

Nothing to worry about.

[harsha.muvva]

Originally Posted by navin

Harsha,

If some of the components have come loose simply soldering them back should resovle the issue. I would do this first.

However the symptoms you descirbe do not nesscarily seem to originiate from the crossover. I suspect that your front speakers are getting too much LF (more than they can handle) and hence are "hitting their Xmax" which means that the cone cant move any more than they are. The solution for this is a 'bass blocker'.

I am working on soldering the loose parts.Have already soldered one loose component(cylindrical plastic cone with steel wire winded around it).
Pardon my ignorance, Don't know what it is called.
There is one more loose thing,this is resistor i suppose(will post pics by evening of the same).

Regarding "hitting their Xmax", i have been running this same set-up from one n half year without any problem,so i think i can exclude this.

thank you very much for the detailed reply

Regards,
harsha