[Kams_cars]

Hello All.

In my Safari Storme, we got 2 front tweeters and component speaker setup in the front and middle rows.

Problem: Randomly when I switch on the single din HU (kenwood) in either USB, AUX, Tuner mode there is a motor spinning noise that is heard from any one of the tweeter. To make it go away, I either have to switch of HU or put HU into 'stand by' mode.

The wheezzzing sound continue to stay for the entire ride duration or even repeats into next couple of days. Whenever I press the accelerator pedal, the wheezing noise intensity increases much.

On its own, the sound is gone. Again it re appears.

I complained to the Concorde guys to check electrical. No improvement.
The sound intermittently comes and goes away.

Yesterday, the noise was audible from drive side tweeter in morning. And during night ride, the noise was then shifted to left rear passenger door side.

Is there some sort of wires touching one another? or loose connectivity/battery load?

Please help

[R2D2]

That's buzzing noise you hear that rises and falls with engine revs is electrical interference AKA static. Have your installer check speaker wires make sure the insulation on each connector is proper. You could read more here:

Car Audio Static

[paragsachania]

I had this issue long long ago in my WagonR. I was running on a Set-up with a 4 Channel Amp and component speakers for the front.

All of a sudden one day, I hear noise like a blown fuse and then everytime I rev up, the whine intensity would increase.

Found out after a lot of reading and searching then that it was the infamous alternator whine. My issue was strictly when using the speakers connected via Amp.

So when I troubleshot, I realised that the noise was gone when I connected speakers directly to the HU, isolating the Amp. But then, I also used a different source (MP3 Player) with a Stereo (3.5) to RCA and then played back through the same speakers via Amp to figure out if that was the Amp. Luckily it was perfect when I played using the MP3 Player as the source.

Changing RCA cables never helped. The ultimate jugaad around this was to ground the RCA at the back of the HU onto the HU chassis itself and that worked.




The issue was due to the blown Pico fuse that caused this. Of course, over the next few years I used this set-up and finally moved to a USB only player to stay with the modern times

Source

In your case as R2D2 says, you need to first check all the connections, insulation and any open circuit running from HU to the speakers first.

And since you mention this is now an issue with all 4 speakers (F & R), it is the Head Unit that I suspect. If your ASC can plug in a similar HU from their own vehicle (I am sure they should have) and test it in your car, you will find the culprit.

In fact, remove your Storme's HU and connect to another one and check and that will further confirm too.

Pulling out the stock HU is easier, and so is removing the OE couplers from behind so its a fairly easy way to go ahead.

[Kams_cars]

Originally Posted by R2D2

That's buzzing noise you hear that rises and falls with engine revs is electrical interference AKA static. Have your installer check speaker wires make sure the insulation on each connector is proper. You could read more here:

Car Audio Static

The link is resourceful. This part of the article

In cases where the noise is only present when your engine is on, and it changes in pitch along with the RPM of the engine, then the problem probably has to do with your alternator.

is exactly my situation too.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Source

In your case as R2D2 says, you need to first check all the connections, insulation and any open circuit running from HU to the speakers first.

And since you mention this is now an issue with all 4 speakers (F & R), it is the Head Unit that I suspect. If your ASC can plug in a similar HU from their own vehicle (I am sure they should have) and test it in your car, you will find the culprit.

In fact, remove your Storme's HU and connect to another one and check and that will further confirm too.

Pulling out the stock HU is easier, and so is removing the OE couplers from behind so its a fairly easy way to go ahead.

In my case, its an after market HU and audio wiring.
Kenwood-Excelon-KDC-X895

I am not really good with earthing or electrical wiring, I shall visit the audio installer.

Moreover, the amplifier sits below front passenger seat and the rca input point is always close the passenger feet. Could this play spoilsport?

I do not think fuse is the problem, as the when the noise goes away - the sound quality is good as a new fresh built.

[greenhorn]

are you saying that the noise comes from one and only one tweeter at any one time ?

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Kams_cars

In cases where the noise is only present when your engine is on, and it changes in pitch along with the RPM of the engine, then the problem probably has to do with your alternator. is exactly my situation too.

Ok, here's the thing, there can be different reasons for static but most of the causes are due to faulty/less than optimal wiring and poor earthing. Not the alternator, although it is possible. But before suspecting the alternator you should ensure the other bits are investigated.

In the old days cars ignition systems caused interference and then in the 80s and 90s EMI suppression resistors were added to the spark plug caps. Since your car is a diesel that is out of the question.

My friend's MB E class had static noise and it was traced to issues with connectivity from the head unit's amplifier section. A speaker wire change and proper earthing/ground connectivity solved the issue.

The same chap's Honda City which has a HU + an 4 ch. external amplifier had a problem with the RCA connectors. The RCA cables were replaced with better quality ones and the routing was done in such a way to minimise interference from wires carrying power and signals to/from different components in the car.

How do they trouble shoot? The isolate the cause by pulling out the cords one at a time.

I am not really good with earthing or electrical wiring, I shall visit the audio installer. Moreover, the amplifier sits below front passenger seat and the rca input point is always close the passenger feet. Could this play spoilsport?

You've paid him to install your car audio system. Tell him break his head and resolve the problem. You can request him to check the RCA cords to begin with & check their routing. See the previous para.

I do not think fuse is the problem, as the when the noise goes away - the sound quality is good as a new fresh built.

It's not the fuse. Fuse only does one thing i.e. protects the circuit. It either works or it doesn't.

[Kams_cars]

Originally Posted by R2D2

My friend's MB E class had static noise and it was traced to issues with connectivity from the head unit's amplifier section. A speaker wire change and proper earthing/ground connectivity solved the issue.

The same chap's Honda City which has a HU + an 4 ch. external amplifier had a problem with the RCA connectors. The RCA cables were replaced with better quality ones and the routing was done in such a way to minimise interference from wires carrying power and signals to/from different components in the car.

How do they trouble shoot? The isolate the cause by pulling out the cords one at a time.

Many thanks @R2D2!!

Today again, the noise was very loud while playing music. Then, I went to slightly push the cables in the Amplifier socket and restarted the HU. The noise was gone.

I will keep checking the sound quality till the issue has been identified and fixed.

And I see the white powder near the battery. Should this be any concern w.r.t sound system?

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Kams_cars

Today again, the noise was very loud while playing music. Then, I went to slightly push the cables in the Amplifier socket and restarted the HU. The noise was gone.

Assuming you refer to the RCA cords this indicates the static was probably caused by a less than optimal connection between the connectors and the socket. Either way, this is also a good opportunity to do a once-over of the connections and cables between the HU to amp and amp to speakers.

And I see the white powder near the battery. Should this be any concern w.r.t sound system?

Yes, that white powder will corrode your battery clamps and cables. It won't affect your audio as long as the corrosion does not result in voltage drops which can affect other electrical systems as well.

Corrosion is mostly caused by filling too much water in the battery above the Max mark and in few instances due to high voltage from the alternator.

Wash off the powdery residue with a mixture of baking soda and water. Make sure this solution does not enter the battery. The cell vent caps should be tightly fitted. Once cleaned apply vaseline to the terminals and clamps. Do not apply grease.

Most dealers fill extra water to extend the time intervals betweek top-ups. Make sure the distilled water is filled only up to the bottom of the vent barrel and the caps are screwed on tight.

[Kams_cars]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Assuming you refer to the RCA cords this indicates the static was probably caused by a less than optimal connection between the connectors and the socket. Either way, this is also a good opportunity to do a once-over of the connections and cables between the HU to amp and amp to speakers.

For the past week or so, there were no more static noises through the tweeters.

I think the position of the amp box was setup is exposing the rear end RCA socket holes to the front passenger heels position.

I will get this fixed in few days.

[yogesh12]

I Just got a Amplifier and Speakers added to my car and having the same issue.

Tried up everything like shorten the RCA Cables, proper grounding and keeping the power and RCA cable away. It got 50% reduced when we cut down the length of RCA cable, but whining sound during acceleration still persists.. Any Idea on how to circumvent the sound?

So far i got two noise - Whining while acceleration and a silent "sssssssshhhhssshhh" - stationary sound.

My Guy added Amplifier, Hi-Low Converter, and Co-Axial Speakers. All Connection seems to be perfect.

[DrBoom]

The noise you are getting is called ground loop in your system. You will need to check your grounding points, on your head unit, amp ( if any) and car battery as well. Secondly, if you are using RCA to amplifier then also ground your RCA points like the split speaker wire shown in the pic above. Most head units have poor RCA ground points.
This should rectify your issue mate!

[yogesh12]

Originally Posted by DrBoom

The noise you are getting is called ground loop in your system. You will need to check your grounding points, on your head unit, amp ( if any) and car battery as well. Secondly, if you are using RCA to amplifier then also ground your RCA points like the split speaker wire shown in the pic above. Most head units have poor RCA ground points.
This should rectify your issue mate!

Do you know any good mech around bangalore who can sort this out? I am bit hesitant to do it myself.

Will be starting a Ownership thread soon as so far I am loving this car!

[DrBoom]

Sorry mate, I am in Sydney Australia so its not possible for me to do that. The positive side to this is now that you know you have this ground loop issue, you would have to ring a few car audio places close to you and speak to an installer. If they understand the meaning of "ground loop" then it may be a good measure to give them a job to rectify the issue for you. When you take your car there, have them listen to the issue and advise them that you will be happy to pay them once that issue is gone when you collect the car before making payment.
Hope this helps you out brother!

[yogesh12]

Hey All.

Just did a small research and found these in Amazon (India)

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00TEED91K

and

https://www.amazon.in/Toogoo-Univers...dp/B07DVZL255/

Which one do you think is good