[sk456]

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

99% of the people does not know what the specs really are and they listen and decide but if one has a interest in knowing some thing one should know about if fully......

Well , I used to be a specs fanatic earlier..in my experience specs are secondary.. a product with less fancy specs many times sound better than products with great specs..it all depends what your musical requirements are.... for SPL a sub with a higher sensitivity or power might do the trick..but for me power is not necessary at all... i jsut need a fair amount of tight bass to produce the lows in my music... ... anythign louder or thumpier jsut gives me a headache.....

My point is..jsut dont buy a piece of equipment jsut by lookin at the specs.....try to identify it with the music you hear....

[ST7677]

Guys, Guys, Chill out....

Since it is not practical or feasible to listen to all of them, so
Reviews, Price and Specs would help me in shortlisting 3-4 subs which I can then hear and decide!

I clearly said that I am using the data & reviews to only shortlist...
I would decide only after I hear, and check my bank balance


Speedzak, most of the speakers you named are already ruled out... I am presently mulling over JBL, Alpine, Hertz, ID/IDQ, etc. while hoping that my friends and family will not disown me after knowing that I spent so much on ICE....
(My wife has been asking for a 32" LCD panel for last one year + many other things...)

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by sk456

Well , I used to be a specs fanatic earlier..in my experience specs are secondary.. a product with less fancy specs many times sound better than products with great specs..it all depends what your musical requirements are.... for SPL a sub with a higher sensitivity or power might do the trick..but for me power is not necessary at all... i jsut need a fair amount of tight bass to produce the lows in my music... ... anythign louder or thumpier jsut gives me a headache.....

My point is..jsut dont buy a piece of equipment jsut by lookin at the specs.....try to identify it with the music you hear....

True, sensitivity of a driver does not contribute to SQ. But the point here is about misleading specs.

And this does matter. If you went and heard a subwoofer that you liked in a particular setup, you better pretty much replicate the same setup in your car (and it better be the same car), because if you don't there's a good chance that the botched up sensitivity readings will lead to the amount of bass being lesser or more than what you desired. So, you can't exactly say numbers are nothing. Listening sure is everything, but before you get to the listening part, numbers are everything you got in order to implement the system, right?

Let us take an example of two subs that could score almost identical on SQ points. One is sensitive, and the other is wrongly claimed to be as sensitive, that too by about 9db!

To get the latter to produce the same bass as the former, you will have to put in atleast 8 times as much amplification power! Although it is very rare for any two car subs of the same size to have such a vast difference in sensitivity, this is what it implies! And if you chose a lower powered amp based on the misleading sensitivity number, you really aren't going to get as much bass as you wanted? Isn't it as simple as that?

By saying sensitivity numbers are nothing, it's like saying power handling and amp power output numbers are nothing. Then shouldn't all manufacturers make products with the same sparkling published numbers irrespective of what the actuals are?

[sk456]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

By saying sensitivity numbers are nothing, it's like saying power handling and amp power output numbers are nothing. Then shouldn't all manufacturers make products with the same sparkling published numbers irrespective of what the actuals are?

well i didnt say that sensitivity numbers are nuthing...jsut that they should be secondary.... the listenign in should be the first priority...

Well according to me ... Knowing your music and developing good ears should be the first priority ......but thats going down another road altogether.....

[ST7677]

Ok here is what crutchfields suggest...
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...int=1&page=all

Car speaker shopping fallacy #1: The best way to shop for a car speaker is to go to the store and listen to a bunch of different models.
.
.
.
The best way to evaluate any speakers — car or home — is to install them where you plan to use them and test out some of your music.

Car speaker shopping fallacy #2: Specs tell you the whole story on how a speaker will sound.
.
.
.
But, speaker specs can be useful tools to help you whittle down the choices and, when you understand what they mean, specs can be a good guide for making an educated and informed purchasing decision.

pretty much my approach


I recommend interested people to read the whole article..

[ST7677]

Ok, a simple question...

If say I am powering my fronts and rears using 2 ch of an amp:

1. does it mean connecting the fronts and rear in parallel (which means that it will result into a 2 ohm impedence)

2. In such scenario how much RMS input is required from the 2 channels of amp at 2ohm?
(considering usage along with a 250W Sub)

3. Is it better to use the above method to power the rear or it's better to leave the rear with HU?

Thanks

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by ST7677

Ok, a simple question...

If say I am powering my fronts and rears using 2 ch of an amp:

1. does it mean connecting the fronts and rear in parallel (which means that it will result into a 2 ohm impedence)

2. In such scenario how much RMS input is required from the 2 channels of amp at 2ohm?
(considering usage along with a 250W Sub)

3. Is it better to use the above method to power the rear or it's better to leave the rear with HU?

Thanks

If your fronts and rears are 4 ohm speakers, then you have a resultant 2-ohm load at the amp, whe wired in parallel.

Wiring front and rears in parallel is not a good idea if you are using dissimilar speakers. (By the way, here, if you are using dissimilar drivers, it pays to know the exact sensitivity from the manufacturers spec sheet).

I didn't understand your second question, try as I might.... and the third too. You said front and rear, so where did the sub come from?

Although, it's usually best to use the external power amplifier for fronts and sub if left with no choice.

[low_bass_makker]

If say I am powering my fronts and rears using 2 ch of an amp:

1. does it mean connecting the fronts and rear in parallel (which means that it will result into a 2 ohm impedence)

yes if the speakers are 4 ohms


2. In such scenario how much RMS input is required from the 2 channels of amp at 2ohm?
(considering usage along with a 250W Sub)

if using a 4 ch amp it will not make a diff becasue of the sub. and for the rms values and the other specs like senstivity one has to know of the speakers and the amp then we can tell......

3. Is it better to use the above method to power the rear or it's better to leave the rear with HU?

better to leave the rear with the head unit as this will reduce the load on the amp and less heat up of the amp also beacuse of the low impendences....also the fader control will be avalable to you......

[ST7677]

Oh, I guess I was not clear enough.

Let me clarify...

If say I am powering my fronts and rears using 2 ch of an amp (this may be a 2 ch amp along with a monobloc for the sub, or 2ch of a 4 ch amp, where 2 ch are used for the sub).


1. answered.

2. how much RMS output from an amp is required to power front and rears in case I am using them in bridged mode? (considering usage is along with a Sub, the components should not get drowned by sub)

3. Is it better to use front and rear speakers in bridged mode with 2 ch amp or it's better to let the 2 ch of amp power only the front and leave the rear with HU?

Thanks

[Sam Kapasi]

Originally Posted by ST7677

2. how much RMS output from an amp is required to power front and rears in case I am using them in bridged mode? (considering usage is along with a Sub, the components should not get drowned by sub)

3. Is it better to use front and rear speakers in bridged mode with 2 ch amp or it's better to let the 2 ch of amp power only the front and leave the rear with HU?

Thanks

I think the misunderstanding is in your perception of "Bridged"

When you will bridge a 2 channel amplifier, it will result in one mono channel of higher power. Almost like adding both channels.

If you connect front and rear speakers to the same channel (i.e. front right and rear right to one channel/ front left and rear left to another channel) this is called parallel connection. Not bridged.

If you bridge an amplifier (mostly, by using the + of one channel and the - of the other, this ofcourse depends on your amplifier) and connect only ONE subwoofer to it, because the subwoofer needs more power, THAT is called bridging.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by ST7677

Oh, I guess I was not clear enough.

Let me clarify...

If say I am powering my fronts and rears using 2 ch of an amp (this may be a 2 ch amp along with a monobloc for the sub, or 2ch of a 4 ch amp, where 2 ch are used for the sub).


1. answered.

2. how much RMS output from an amp is required to power front and rears in case I am using them in bridged mode? (considering usage is along with a Sub, the components should not get drowned by sub)

3. Is it better to use front and rear speakers in bridged mode with 2 ch amp or it's better to let the 2 ch of amp power only the front and leave the rear with HU?

Thanks

Hmm, firstly thank you Sam for clarifying. I was really bewildered.

Ans #2. Check the rating of the amp in 2 ohm mode. Divide this by 2 per channel (i.e. left or right) and this is the power each speaker would be getting. Now what was the intended power you wanted to supply to each speaker? If this is close enough, then there isn't much problem except for the lower damping factor. The power output per channel increases in 2-ohm mode. Typical class AB amplifiers would put out 30% to about twice as much power in 2-ohm mode.

Ans #3. Like I said earlier, the best thing is to get a better pair of front speakers, get kanjus about the rears, and use the solitary 4-ch amp to drive the fronts and the sub only. That way you retain fader control, and use power where it is best deserved.

[ST7677]

Yeah Sam got me right.

I got confused with the "bridge" terminology, my mistake!

Thanks for clarifying my doubt.

[low_bass_makker]

so st which amps subs and speaker you are going to buy........

[ST7677]

LBM,
I am yet to listen to some of them before I finally decide.

Shortlist looks something like this:

Amp- Audison / Alpine

Monobloc - Pioneer D510

Component - Hertz/ focal / alpine

Sub - Image Dynamics / hertz / Alpine / Jbl

It's all about fitting best in available budget. I am not for incremental upgrades.


Came to know that Nakamichi is launched in Bangalore yesterday, their showroom is at Hosur road and they are giving some attractive launch discount! Would try to check out their Amps also.

[low_bass_makker]

Amp- Audison / Alpine
go for audison if budget permit , alpine are also good.

Monobloc - Pioneer D510
ok report.

Component - Hertz/ focal / alpine
listen to all of them then decide...


Sub - Image Dynamics / hertz / Alpine / Jbl
I would only recommend ID if budget permits and Jbl only.


Came to know that Nakamichi is launched in Bangalore yesterday, their showroom is at Hosur road and they are giving some attractive launch discount! Would try to check out their Amps also.
no need to go this way....