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-   -   The Damping Material and Sound Deadener Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-entertainment/13307-damping-material-sound-deadener-thread-54.html)

Did you got them fixed.. if please share shop and charges incurred.. Thanks

Got damping done in my Civic's front doors and boot lid at Driven, Delhi. They put in total 16 sq/ft of damping. Material used was something called Roadkill. Subhan and Rana ji were praising it a lot, so I got it done! Total cost came out to be INR 5500.

After effects -

1. My door and boot lid feels heavy, and I mean HEAVY. Doors shut with a proper thunk, so does the boot. :thumbs up

2. Better mid bass response from my stock ICE. clap:

Is this Roadkill comparable with Dynamat Xtreme (the usual damping standard)? Any ideas?

Is that Stinger Roadkill? If so, it is pretty good, comparable with Dynamat (though not sure how it compares with dynamat extreme). Some prefer dynamat because it is a bigger/ more reputable brand while others prefer stinger roadkill because it it better VFM, either way both are good products.

Thanks a ton to Team-BHP! I did the underbody coating using Wurth Stoneguard and what a difference in the sound quality even with my humble co-axials! Roadnoise has lost its battle!
If it were not for this forum, I would be vainly trying to squeeze in more speakers/subs/amps!
So, with all the posts in the Team-bhp, I have ordered Dynamat as well. I am pretty sure I am gonna get another surprising change to my car; maybe, an in-car studio? ;)
Incidentally met bhp-ian Sankar as well at the service station! Nice meeting and experienced his 'Star' a little bit.

Could you throw some more light on the underbody coating (Wurth Stoneguard). Its the first time im hearing of this & how did underbody coating give you better sound quality from your speakers?

Sorry that I could not find that one single post which explains all the effect of underbody coating. But you can read through this thread and other ICE related threads and will get an idea. The ICE Gurus have brainstormed a lot over this.
The basic principle of any type of damping is to increase the resonant frequency of a material so that it will not vibrate with the [vibration] source.
I think the link from the following post helped to understand this
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/produc...tml#post554258

And so the Wurth must be doing the same magic.

did you finally get the material from syw ? Was it all good ? i read varied reviews about it online ! Ordered a 16sq. ft. dynamat kit to check out their service..hope it arrives !

Under-body damping reduces raod noise in the cabin.

Damping lowers the resonant frequency and also the energy required to excite the panels being damped. The combination of these effects is what makes the panel more "dead".

Thanks for the correction Navin. Yours were the most exciting posts in the whole of Team-BHP. I can't help saying thanks for all the info.

I can conclude for sure that anyone interested in good in-car audio experience must first get their car damped properly before investing anything on the rigs.

Got a grander Grand Punto again! Dynamat did the trick!
Once I have closed all the doors and rolled up the windows, it is almost like putting on my noise cancelling headphones.
It's taking time to adapt to the 'new car' and sometimes I feel like I'm driving a million dollar Petrol car. But then, the lag while flooring the pedal reminds me about the reality that it's still the DI.
Now my only concern is a 'what-if' about the power windows and door locks. One door lock had failed pre-Dynamat and got it fixed under warranty. Will I get the same treatment from the dealer in my post-Dynamat life as well?

Why not? You have not modified the winder mechanisim have you?

Folks who have done door damping, what happens if you need to serivice some component on the door (like handle, autocop motor etc). Can the damping material be removed and reapplied ??

Unless the material has become really hard, one can remove it by using a hot air blower to soften the glue, and scrape it off using a sharp utility knife. If it has become really hard (cracks and crumbles), one has to pry it off using a chisel.

Any Butyl rubber based damping will survive better than Asphalt based damping. Butyl rubber damping can be removed but not reapplied easily. It is best to use fresh damping material after cleaning the surface of the metal throughly of any old damping.

I have a similar dilemma. During the next service I wanted to get a dent out on the front right door however its dampened with Stinger's Roadkill and wasn't sure if the workers at M.A.S.S would be able to remove the dampening sheet, repair the door and re-apply it. Just the front 2 door of dampening had cost me around 3.5-4k and I don't think I can afford to replace it with fresh dampening material.

What can be done here to ensure that I can re-use the dampening sheet after the door repair? Would fevicol not work on the black glue material that is on the dampening sheets?