[escape velocity]

Hi,

There's a 2016 model Toyota Etios Liva 1.2 G Petrol hatchback up for sale in my neighborhood.
The car has done about 90,000 kms. and is ,currently, with a 4 th owner who is expecting about 3.5 lac for the same.

Is it a fair price for the car?? I always wanted to buy a Toyota for its engine and build quality.

Should I consider it or not? How can I further reduce the price ?

Regards

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by escape velocity

Should I consider it or not?

Looking at how frequently it is changing hands, I'd say let it pass.

How can I further reduce the price ?

Again, 4 owners in 7 years is a strong enough reason for negotiation. It could very well be a lemon. Even if it is not, resale will be quite a task for you.

[pandey.jai]

If I’m buying a used car which has insurance valid till 2024, do I just request the insurer to change the insurance to my name? Is there a transfer fee for it?

I’m sure they would need RC in my name - but it might take some time for the process to be completed. So is there a grace period for such processes to complete? The reason I’m thinking about it is, if while driving back home from the buyers place, if I meet with some accident, then how is this covered?

And as a buyer, should I get all original sales receipts, tax paid certificate etc? Or is transferring RC sufficient?

[escape velocity]

Originally Posted by pandey.jai

If I’m buying a used car which has insurance valid till 2024, do I just request the insurer to change the insurance to my name? Is there a transfer fee for it?

I’m sure they would need RC in my name - but it might take some time for the process to be completed.

I am assuming that the current owner is letting you have the possession of the vehicle before the RC is transferred in your name. I think in this case he will be responsible for settling any damages/claims arising out of any mishap.

Moreover, once RC is transferred in your name, then as per section 157 of the MV Act, the policy of insurance ,insurance certificate and policy described therein is deemed to have been transferred in the favour of the person to whom motor vehicle is transferred from the date of such transfer.

[escape velocity]

Originally Posted by self_driven

Again, 4 owners in 7 years is a strong enough reason for negotiation. It could very well be a lemon. .

Yes, I think so. Therefore, striking it off the shortlist.

However, a collegue of mine is offering his Wagon R VXI 1.0 litre for 4 lacs. Car is 3 year 8 months old and has done about 14000 kms. Condition is very good.

Is 4 lac a fair price.?

Originally Posted by self_driven

Again, 4 owners in 7 years is a strong enough reason for negotiation. It could very well be a lemon. Even if it is not, resale will be quite a task for you.

Yes, I think it's a lemon. Letting it pass.

However, a coworker is offering his Maruti Suzuki Wagon R 1.0 litre VXI 2019 model for Rs. 4 lac.
Car is 3 years and 8 months old and done about 13800 kms. Condition is very good.

Is 4 lac a fair price given that the same model, if bought new, will now cost around 6.5 lac on the road.?

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by pandey.jai

If I’m buying a used car which has insurance valid till 2024, do I just request the insurer to change the insurance to my name? Is there a transfer fee for it?

Yes. When you receive your new RC, mail a scanned copy to the insurer with a request to transfer policy to your name. Transfer charges are nominal (50-100 bucks) but you may have to pay NCB amount accumulated by the previous owner as this discount cannot be passed on to the new owner.

The reason I’m thinking about it is, if while driving back home from the buyers place, if I meet with some accident, then how is this covered?

Time period for insurance transfer is 15 days (not very sure) but that does not change the liability aspect for buyer and seller. Seller is liable for everything till the time RC is not transferred. In case of a mishap before RC transfer, insurance will cover damages. But insurance transfer is important when RC is transferred otherwise the insurer will deny any claims raised by you citing difference in owner details in RC and insurance.

And as a buyer, should I get all original sales receipts, tax paid certificate etc?

Not required, at least here in Delhi NCR.

Originally Posted by escape velocity

Yes, I think so. Therefore, striking it off the shortlist.

However, a collegue of mine is offering his Wagon R VXI 1.0 litre for 4 lacs. Car is 3 year 8 months old and has done about 14000 kms. Condition is very good.

Is 4 lac a fair price.?

Hi, this one seems to be a good deal, both from price perspective and the fact that it comes from a known source. I hope it is the new shape WagonR and not the old one.

[sonmi-451]

Hi,
I have a baleno zeta cng purchased Nov 2022 and put 12700 kms on it so far. I shall mention the reasons for planning to replace it with a used car towards the end but I would like to get advice. I am 5’11 and weight 116 kgs(obese), Kindly provide advice, what I am looking for in the used car:
- budget around 4 lakhs
- needs to have high seating like Ignis/Rtiz but not necessarily a SUV
- Automatic, reliability and decent mileage ( Suzuki/Honda?)
- I might add cng to it if my usage goes higher if I have to start driving to office instead of riding
- so far automatic variants of ritz, Ignis or city seem to fit my bill but I would like to hear from the experts

Looks like I might loose 1.5 to 2 lakhs by seeking the baleno, My financial situation is not great and won’t be able to afford running costs of petrol if I have to drive it to office regularly. So thinking about getting something like a automatic honda city which have decent boot space if I have to add cng to it later to bring down the running costs.
Now a little bit of background. My budget was around 10 lakhs on road , I purchased the baleno because my running is relatively high and I couldn’t go with an automatic due to higher running costs. It seemed like the best compromise and it stayed that way while I was living in Vijayawada where cng availability was not a problem, traffic was reasonable and roads were flat. I moved to hyderabad 2 months ago and what seemed like a decent fit for my usage is now a struggle there.
- Number of CNG pumps are less for such a big city
- huge lines and less pressure
- Hyderabad roads are not flat like Vijaywada, coupling that with the traffic has resulted in way too frequent gear changes.
- even the power seems inadequate in cng mode, petrol is better though but it defeats the purpose of getting a manual cng car
- my left leg starts aching if I drive for more than 20 minutes even in non peak hour traffic
- I still work from home but I am planning to change employer which means I will be going to office don’t see myself driving this car regularly during summer and rainy seasons
- also due to financial reasons I am planning to sell this and get a used automatic car

If I settle down financially I may purchase an EV 3 or 4 years down the line and if this next car is in good shape I might keep for highway trips and get an small EV for city usage.
Looking forward to some replies to help me avoid another costly mistake which I can’t afford .

[sonmi-451]

Correction: i expect car usage to go down now that I am in hyderabad. I am planning to ride on two wheeler as much as possible but during summer and rainy season I may have to drive. Also I am trying to avoid diesel due to possible government bans and guilt of more pollution from the pipe. Another question I have for the members is about the after market iMT systems that have come up. Since I am planning to get a used car, would you advice that I get a manual and get after market iMT installed on it? Why or why not? Thank you in advance.

[mentalmaxout]

HI

Considering a used car for the missus - daily running is around 10 km i Mumbai city bumper to bumper and hence wanted an automatic. I am in favour of non AMT cars as want to avoid the jerkiness. Zeroed down on a Totyota Glanza g CVT costing 7.9 lakh non negotiable. Car is 2021 model and CVT gearbox with 17000 km on the ODO - 1st owner. Is it a good price?

Also can anyone share the link of documents to check / get before buying a used car ?

[charu85]

Hi,

I am looking to buy a German sedan in the price range of Rs. 50-60 lacs. The cars in the garage currently are: a 2020 Creta Turbo (my preferred car) and 2014 Grand i10 (wife's preferred car). The plan is to sell off the i10 soon.

The sedan would be for my own driving - the main requirement is a great driving experience, without the car being "delicate" or hard to maintain. Having characteristics such as good backseat space and reasonable ground clearance will be a bonus.

I expect a running of ~800 KM / month, mostly in Gurgaon (50:50 bad and good roads), with highway runs of 500-600 KM twice a year. I am 6 feet tall and appreciate spacious cabins and ergonomic seats (I often use the driving seat pushed all the way back).

Having a fairly busy office schedule means that breakdowns and repairs are difficult to manage. This would be my first foray into the luxury car segment, and I plan to retain the car for 5-8 years. I am considering petrol over diesel due to the petrol's refinement and diesel cars' 10-yr Delhi/NCR limitation.

I am not interested in exotic features such as ADAS, and I don't want to compromise every-day use in favor of very high power or very stiff ride quality.

The main contenders in my mind are:

Options for new purchase:

BMW 330 Li Grand Limousine
This is my default choice, as it ticks all the boxes (driving experience, space) but maxes out the budget.

Mercedes C 200
Great styling and interiors, but cramped rear seat. C 200 is not as powerful as 330Li (the 200 PS power is just a bit above my Creta Turbo's 150 PS).

Audi A4
Doesn't looks exciting (subjective), 200 PS is not much better than my Creta Turbo's 150 PS.

Audi A6
Great interiors and exteriors, smooth ride. But steering is softer/lighter even with Dynamic mode.

Not considered: BMW M340i (GC, stiff suspension)

Options in pre-owned:
BMW 330i 2021, 8000KM
Asking price Rs. 58 Lacs. Note this is the non-long wheel base mode which is not sold anymore. The car is well-maintained by an enthusiast (fellow T-BHP member), but asking price is higher than I like (when you compare to Rs. 65 Lacs OTR for a new 330 Li).

Audi A6 2021, 17000KM Prem Plus
Asking price Rs. 49 lacs. Option available via famous online used-car brand, claims to have done 250-point inspection etc. (Not the model with air suspension). The car had a few rattles and some panels were repainted (but not replaced as per the agency), had had 3 tires changed (which seems strange given the relatively low running). Overall, the car felt solid. I thought the steering was quite light, and did not feel the same "connected" feeling as I did in the 330 Li. But it has sufficient power, great looks and interiors and overall feels good value-for-money.

Questions to the esteemed members of the forum:
Is a used Audi A6 (2021 model, 17K run) worth considering? I recall the units of this period had deep discounts from the dealers, so probably why it is priced economically. I also see news about new A6 being announced (with hybrid drivetrains) in the coming months, so will this be outdated soon?

How good is the 2021 BMW 330i? Will it retain it's value proposition 5-8 years down the line? While I understand the added sportiness due to the shorter wheelbase, that itself is not so important that I ignore a new 330Li at just Rs. 6 lacs extra (extra space and will get higher resale after 5-8 years).

Is there any other option I should be considering? I am okay with stretching the budget to Rs. 65-70 lacs if the value proposition is worth it.

[xcentrk]

Hi Guys, Just want to see if I can get the used-car buying checklist? I did searched through the forum and find nothing. Do we have one in Team BHP?

I'm planning to buy 4th Gen City and started browsing at various portals and I would need the checklist just in case if I come across any good ones near me.

[skdking]

Originally Posted by saiyanajay

Hi everyone

Sub - regarding purchase of a used Hyundai Tucson diesel AWD(2020 model)

I have been following team BHP for reviews over many years, became a member now because I feel its the best place to clarify doubts regarding purchase of a car.

I prefer used car over new ones, for the same reasons given extensively in the team BHP post on advantages of buying a used car. I narrowed down my search to a used Hyundai Tucson(2020), 4WD auto diesel. The reviews of this car are good everywhere including Team BHP. I have seen and driven the car, it is in good condition. It has 33000km in the ODO, sold by Hyundai H-Promise. The asking price is 26 Lakhs and they don't seem comfortable in any sort of negotiation, claiming that the demand is so high.

Reasons why I like this car
1. It is a looker, a design that will age well.
2. Comfortable.
3. Spacious.
4. Reliable service.
5. Quiet, powerful, efficient diesel engine.
6. Quality of materials used.

I do know that I can get a used Innova or a brand new harrier/XUV 700 for this price, but preferred to stay away because

1. Interior quality of harrier and XUV 700 are not up to mark. XUV 700 infotainment can show glitches which is not expected from a car that costs north of 20L.
2. I already have a Hyundai i20 elite, petrol, which has given me zero problems over the years. So I am prefer to be a loyal customer to Hyundai. I also preferred a Hyundai Grand i10 automatic(used) for my sister which is a great car except for the mileage.
3. Avoided Innova because i am not in to MPVs. I prefer SUVs.

However I can't help the feeling of getting scammed at an asking price of 26 lakhs. At 24 lakhs it would have been a no-brainer. Can the expert members of team BHP give an advice regarding the expected price of this car? I would need to renew it's insurance soon, get new tyres too. They offered 4 lakhs for my petrol i20 elite sportz(2016) which has 80000 km in the ODO. Thanks in advance.

Hey there, did you buy that Tucson, ultimately?

I am also looking at a used Tucson. Your experience will be of great value.

[skdking]

Originally Posted by xcentrk

Hi Guys, Just want to see if I can get the used-car buying checklist? I did searched through the forum and find nothing. Do we have one in Team BHP?

I'm planning to buy 4th Gen City and started browsing at various portals and I would need the checklist just in case if I come across any good ones near me.

Hello,

Did you get that checklist, finally?

Can you post your checklist here, pl?

[xcentrk]

Originally Posted by skdking

Hello,

Did you get that checklist, finally?

Can you post your checklist here, pl?

No luck getting the checklist. Looks like no one has it.

[hothatchaway]

Originally Posted by xcentrk

No luck getting the checklist. Looks like no one has it.

Hi,

I was on the lookout for a used car recently and did some reading up on the subject to come up with a guide. Sharing it.

IDENTIFY YOUR NEED

First things first, identify your needs ie size, performance ease of ownership and your budget. If it is 3 lakhs then do not quote more than 2.75 if you are talking to a dealer. Try to keep a buffer for immediate after purchase repairs and do overs. For a Japanese hatch, this should not exceed 25-30k (including tires) if you have done your evaluation well. For sedans especially the temperamental European ones, this could be upto 10% of a car when bought new. The car may be available at a mouthwatering price but spares will not come at a discount. This is especially true for lux models.

Unless you are hung up on a particular make/model, do not be constrained by body type/make/model. You may want a sedan but if you are looking for a daily drive and are a family of three, a well kept hatch may serve you better. Try to ensure that the car has at least 4 years left before registration expires. That way, even if you trade it in after 2 years, you will still have decent resale. I did not consider diesel options. I was wary of costly repairs if my evaluation went wrong and was wary of an impending ban on diesel cars. Cars are more expensive down south than elsewhere so bear that in mind. The Japanese makes are more expensive than others for reliability and easy availability of spares. So if you know a good garage and are confident that you can pick up a ride in decent shape, you can consider the Fiats and Skodas which have bad resale. They are not bad cars and not everybody has a bad experience provided you know a good independent garage. The money you can save while buying one will help when you spruce up your ride. I almost picked up a used Linea Tjet at a mouthwatering price. The trims needed some work but the car was mechanically sound and drove like a dream. But fate willed otherwise.

SCOUTING FOR A DEAL

Unless you have a good source who can sniff out deals, you will sift through the usual suspects ie FB marketplace, OLX et al. Most of the options I found were just hustlers who posted cars at inflated prices on behalf of the actual seller and talking to these chaps are a waste of time for the most part. You will have to be patient. The belief is that its always better to buy from a direct seller but that is not always the case in my opinion. You can avoid unrealistic quotes which come from the emotional attachment of ones pride and joy by dealing with someone who earns his bread by plying this trade. Of course, it is on the buyer to do his due diligence. In my experience, the actual dealers (not the time pass hustlers) will inflate the intended sale price by 15% and will immediately reduce that the moment he senses that the buyer is genuine. They also have an urgency to move inventory.

So once you have zeroed in on options which seem to fit your need, you could do the following preliminary checks solely basis the information included in the classified ad -

Number of kms on the Odo (either extremes are red flags, I prefer a car which has done 75k in 5 years than just 15. Cars are meant to run and are often in ship shape when they do)

Number of owners (for every additional owner, you could try to haggle the price down by at least 10%)

Insurance validity - To me, a car with valid insurance indicates its roadworthiness. The copy of the current insurance reveals valuable clues like its IDV (great for a baseline to start negotiations for non popular models) and the NCB % which may indicate if any claims were made recently. Renewal requires reinspection and no RTO process can happen with a lapsed insurance. In fact, you cannot even do a legal test drive!

State of registration - Unless you are well hooked up with RTOs, avoid buying lets say a MH registered car in Hyd. The bargain offered is for a reason

Traffic Offences - If the ad reveals the registration number, check online if any challans are pending. In Telengana for eg, the challan also carries a photo of the car which will reveal the current exterior condition. Classified ads often carry images from the car's better days in the past.

THE CALL

Once you have identified options worth pursuing, its time to make the first call. I tried getting as many details as possible at this stage as I did not want to run across town through mad traffic running after every red herring. This is what I tried verifying during the call.

Owner or poser? For individual listings, this was my opening question, the hustlers would usually get filtered out at this stage if you probe further.

Year and month of manufacture. Some sellers mention Dec 2010 cars as 2011 registered

Both keys available? Remember that in the case of theft, the insurer will ask for both keys. This may not be a deal breaker if the car is a decade old but remember to factor this in when its time to negotiate the final price.

Validate facts - Insurance validity if not mentioned, try and get a copy if its a dealer as the RC could be dated. When was the last service done and any major repairs. Ask if the vehicle is stationery and for how long. Always better to get a car which is running as thats what they are meant to do.

If you are after a particular model, like the VRS or the Tjet, research for common issues. So on the call you could check if the alternator or the mounts are still good.

Availability of original documents, especially the RC. Check if the car has a loan running as that would add a step to the final documentation

Reiterate the quoted price and see the reaction. Some sellers (especially dealers) may revise immediately by 10-15%

Schedule a visit asap if everything checks out. You have to move fast as good deals won't wait for anyone.

VISIT & TEST DRIVE

There are videos on YT and I found the series of videos on buying a used car by ChrisFix to be informative. This is what I followed

Visit during the day and in sunny weather - This is self explanatory and minor scratches and scuffs don't show up when the car is wet.

Walk around the car and get a good eyeful of it. A bad exterior may mean a badly kept car. though not always.

Check the windscreen, window and rear glass. If they do not bear the manufacturer logo on the corner then they have been replaced. You will have to find out why.

Check the condition of the tires and date of manufacture (1512 means 15th week of 2012) I preferred at least the front tires to be of identical make and manufacture. That indicates regular replacement of equipment. They are also clues to the genuine miles the car has done (a 6 year old car with 30K on the odo may not have needed new tires a couple of years back)

Check the bottom edges and under the beading of all 4 doors. That is the area where rusting usually turns up. If you find cars in coastal areas with some age and without rust, consider it to be a great starting point

This is the time to verify common issues which plague the particular make/model if you have done some homework. Like rusting issues for Jap cars or AC/electricals for certain others.

Pop the hood and check for any body lines that seem to be bent. That may indicate a shunt. Next, check the fluids and the belts for any wear. Then request for the car to be cranked while you stand next to the engine bay. Check for abnormal vibes and whining sounds. Check for leaks once the engine has idled enough to reach its operating temperature. If there is one, it will show up once the system is running and under pressure.

If the battery. tires and the suspension have at least another 2 years of life left, then that is some $$$ saved at least immediately. Check the interiors, they offer clues on how the car has been driven and how much. Check the boot under the spare if your city has experienced flooding recently.

Start the test drive. Do have the dealer/owner with you when you do that. Ease the car out and see how she feels. I would turn the audio off to listen closely for anything unusual. Drive slowly over potholes and listen to the sounds the suspension makes. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock at low speeds. Turn on the AC/CC after the engine has warmed up. Do all buttons incl the power windows work as intended? See if you can include stretches where the car can stretch her legs. Is the engine smooth or is there hesitation? Does she pull to any one side upon acceleration or braking?

SEALING THE DEAL

If should have a good sense by this time if you have been able to put the car through her paces. While some would suggest that you get the service history vetted by the Auth. SS, not all cars which have seen more than just a few years have a complete record. That does not necessarily mean that they lacked care. Try to take a friend or family who are a little less passionate about the whole exercise can remain more objective. I trusted the wife with that. I have nothing much to add about the price negotiation as it is no different from any other big purchase you would make. Depending on your gut feel, you may hold back 15-20k if any work is promised before delivery or for ownership transfer documentation to be completed but don't do that as a point on your checklist. If you have a trusted mechanic, you could have him accompany you.

Needless to say, just like any other purchase, be prepared to walk away if something does not feel right. You would do this a few times before you hit the bullseye.

I am not including ownership transfer documentation as there are many threads on TBHP which chronicles the points very well. Do watch out if there is a loan running and ensure that the seller closes that and gets the NOC from the bank. In case you are exploring any out of state option, just research the process well.

Hope this helps!