[phi]

Originally Posted by amol4184

This sounds like a good candidate for tubeless! Did you take a look at how those punctures looked like? e.g. two small holes, seam separation, crack. Apart from poor quality tubes improper inflation will also cause punctures.

Originally Posted by ebonho

You mentioned the repeat punctures were on the seam, but you never mentioned (or maybe I missed it) whether they were in the tyre side or the rim side. In my experience, rim tape can be a culprit (more so on road bikes with mych higher pressure) in weakening the tube at the dimples of the spoke holes that form over time. But the tube gets weakened (it develops thinned out bulges in exactly the same spoke hole pattern, and eventually one gives way) over quite some time. In your case it was instantaneous. That points to more an installation thing than a tube thing. In my opinion. Even cheap local tubes like Ralco and GRL and Hartex etc. never simply just give way like that. I've done over 50,000 km on the first two.

Thanks, I will consider tubeless if I get the issue even with the new tube.

It was 1-2 small holes right on the seam, every time. And it was on the rim side every time, though not at the same location.

I have this suspicion that they procured tubes from someone, and these came from old stock which had degraded. My tyres are 700x35C, and they were probably pushing what they had with them. If I remember correctly, they charged me around Rs.800 for the tube. I agree that a new tube (even a local one) would not have failed the same way.

Maybe an installation issue, but I suspect they will get caught out like that multiple times, given their reputation as an established specialty bicycle store. Even I, at best an amateur, took care to ensure that the tube was not pinched anywhere.

Improper inflation is also an unlikely cause. The recommended pressure on the tyre is 50psi, and the range is , and it was filled to 50psi every time.

[ebonho]

If a tube is bad, it will be equally likely to give way at either seam. Or even more likely at the valve.

Cheers, Doc

[phi]

Originally Posted by ebonho

If a tube is bad, it will be equally likely to give way at either seam. Or even more likely at the valve.

I hope it does not occur again with the new tube. So far so good.

[Fr0nx23]

Greetings to all the members of this forum. This is my first post on TEAM-BHP forum.

Happy to share that today I completed my first ride after purchasing my new bicycle Rockrider ST30.

To give a background, I decided to start cycling as a leisure activity once a week to get away from the routine and spend time with self. I have purchased this bicycle last Friday after reading the suggestions and comments on the choice of bicycle in this thread.

I got the ST30 in my car from Decathlon using the quick release of the front wheel. After reaching my place and fixing back the wheel I found the front wheel was not moving freely. After some effort I realized that I had tightened the lever too tight and resolved it.

After the pooja in the evening, I took it out for a spin after dinner and took a feel of riding a bicycle after many decades. Today, Sun morning, I woke up early and went for a ride at 530 am. The distance was approximately 12Km TO and FRO.

I created a login on Strava app and recorded the activity. I am sharing the photo of the bike and ride. I am looking forward to enjoy this new hobby of mine .

Facing a small issue though:

After I learnt how to use gears on a cycle on YouTube, (1-3 for elevations, 3-4-5 for plains, 5-6-7 for downhill), I found the The ST30 easy to ride.

However, I found the chain is not slotting properly in 1st gear 9 out of 10 times.

I would be grateful if someone can suggest the reason and how I should resolve it or should I get it checked at Decathlon?

[AjinkyaP]

Greetings !

I am planning to get back to cycling after almost a decade, primarily for weight loss. Used to ride regularly during high school and college years.

Need recommendations for purchasing since the bicycle market has gone way beyond my basic understanding.

I’ll be riding mostly on plains and occasionally on mild inclines. We have a farmland 8KM from my home , plan to visit 4-5 times a week , so it’s going to be a 16Km ride to start with on good roads , also a bit of mild off road ride within the farm.

Suggestions needed for -

Geared / single speed.
Suspension.
Frame Size ( Height/Weight - 6ft/85Kg )
Brand ( No Decathlon in my town, Firefox store is there)

Need a hassle-free bike with minimum mechanical complications , budget is around 25k but can extend if needed.

Thank You!

[amol4184]

Originally Posted by Fr0nx23

However, I found the chain is not slotting properly in 1st gear 9 out of 10 times.

I would be grateful if someone can suggest the reason and how I should resolve it or should I get it checked at Decathlon?

When shifts don't happen well in extreme ends of the gear range it's very likely a problem with limit screws - basically your rear derailleur is not getting pushed inwards enough to place the chain on largest cog. OR secondly, the gear cable is not tensioned enough to pull the derailleur all the way.

Both of these can be rectified fairly easily. Look up setting up H/L screws of the derailleur on YouTube and also how to properly tension the derailleur cable.

In most cases this will take care of the shifting issues.

The other, somewhat harder to fix issues are - chain cut too short. So short that the derailleur spring cannot handle all the pressure when in top two gears.

Chain is proper length but "B" screw isn't dialed in properly. Look up what B screw is.

Rare but still possible, bent derailleur hangar.

Start with first two suggestions. If shifting isn't fixed with that take it to Decathlon. Also remember depending on derailleur the H/L screws will be in different locations, same for cable tension screw.

[Fr0nx23]

Originally Posted by amol4184

When shifts don't happen well in extreme ends of the gear range it's very likely a problem with limit screws - basically your rear derailleur is not getting pushed inwards enough to place the chain on largest cog. OR secondly, the gear cable is not tensioned enough to pull the derailleur all the way.

Both of these can be rectified fairly easily. Look up setting up H/L screws of the derailleur on YouTube and also how to properly tension the derailleur cable.

In most cases this will take care of the shifting issues.

The other, somewhat harder to fix issues are - chain cut too short. So short that the derailleur spring cannot handle all the pressure when in top two gears.

Chain is proper length but "B" screw isn't dialed in properly. Look up what B screw is.

Rare but still possible, bent derailleur hangar.

Start with first two suggestions. If shifting isn't fixed with that take it to Decathlon. Also remember depending on derailleur the H/L screws will be in different locations, same for cable tension screw.

Thank you Amol for your advice. I appreciate your taking the time to write in such detail. Apologies for I did not update the status. The gear is slotting well since the 2nd day of riding. Maybe I was changing the gear while pedaling. I observed from next day that when I am changing the gear while the wheels are spinning on their own, the gear is slotting correctly and no rattling sound. I will remember your advice if the issue resurfaces again. Thanks again.

[amol4184]

Originally Posted by Fr0nx23

Thank you Amol for your advice. I appreciate your taking the time to write in such detail. Apologies for I did not update the status. The gear is slotting well since the 2nd day of riding.

No problem. Happy to help and that the problem is fixed on its own.
Yes, things like that happen with brand new setup and often need some real on road riding before things settle down.

Shifting, braking, pedaling resistance improves after initial "rough" edges are gone. Shifting also improves once you get used to the system but remember to keep it lubed well all the time. Good luck!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by AjinkyaP

Greetings !

I am planning to get back to cycling after almost a decade, primarily for weight loss. Used to ride regularly during high school and college years.

Need recommendations for purchasing since the bicycle market has gone way beyond my basic understanding.

I’ll be riding mostly on plains and occasionally on mild inclines. We have a farmland 8KM from my home , plan to visit 4-5 times a week , so it’s going to be a 16Km ride to start with on good roads , also a bit of mild off road ride within the farm.

Thank You!

Kolhapur is a hilly place. Ergo, yes you need a geared bike. Always a huge help. I'm not too fussed about the numbers. Most bikes have a reasonable gear range for recreational biking.

No you dont need suspension. And should stay away from it unless you are into hardcore mountain biking.

Just because you dont have a Decathlon near you does not mean you cannot or should not buy a Decathlon bike. You can buy online, and they ship. Bikes are bikes. If you have cycle mechanics and shops, those are more than sufficient. In most cases and price points, Decathlon bikes are superior to Firefox.

Buy the lightest cycle you can afford. Everything else can be upgraded or replaced. Changing a bike's basic weight is near impossible, and for what you can reduce, very expensive. Thats my standard advice to all riders. Might as well buy a lighter bike first off.

A drop bar road bike or a flat bar hybrid is what you should get. Carbon fork preferable, at least. You will probably need a L or 56 in most frames.

Cheers, Doc

[amol4184]

+1 to Decathlon and the rest. I lived in a town without Deca store and they shipped it to me really, really well packed and delivered to me in 3 days flat from the day of placing order. From what I have seen, those bikes are better than Montra/Firefox etc.

[GandalfTheGrey]

One of the things that's close to my heart is riding a bicycle. It has always been a wishlist for me to move to Netherlands for sometime for the sole reason of enjoy the biking culture. Thankfully an opportunity was presented and it's been 6 beautiful months in the Netherlands and loving the biking scene/infra here. It's amazing how bikes and the infra to support it are ingrained so deeply in the Dutch culture.

My latest acquisition, a pre owned Dutch bike - Pacific. Frame size XL, and powered by Shimano Nexus 8. Though I wanted to buy a proper Gazelle or Batavus, I somehow loved this bike for the price-value ratio. Been using it for daily commute to office and loving it.



Cheers!

[amol4184]

Originally Posted by GandalfTheGrey

My latest acquisition, a pre owned Dutch bike - Pacific.

Does it have drum brakes? I don't see brake calipers though the wheels look like rim brake wheels.

[GandalfTheGrey]

Originally Posted by amol4184

Does it have drum brakes? I don't see brake calipers though the wheels look like rim brake wheels.

Yes, you're right. It has a variant of Drum brake called Roller brake. More info on how it works here - https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html
Apparently this type of brake is quite common in bikes with Shimano's hub gearing system, especially 8 geared ones. The Shimano brake+ 8 gearing combo also has an inbuilt dynamo.

Cheers!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by GandalfTheGrey

My latest acquisition, a pre owned Dutch bike - Pacific. Frame size XL, and powered by Shimano Nexus 8. Though I wanted to buy a proper Gazelle or Batavus, I somehow loved this bike for the price-value ratio. Been using it for daily commute to office and loving it.

Hi Gandalf!

What are the advantages of these vintage looking Dutch bikes over modern flat bar hybrids for commuting? Why are they so popular in Holland. Is it a culture thing?

Also, why is your saddle nose tilted so dramatically upward. Does that not cause any issues down under? Or is there some clever suspension mechanism that brings it level when you mount it?

Cheers, Doc

[GandalfTheGrey]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Hi Gandalf!

What are the advantages of these vintage looking Dutch bikes over modern flat bar hybrids for commuting? Why are they so popular in Holland. Is it a culture thing?

Hi Doc,

One of the main advantages I can think of is the riding posture and also the weight of the bike to some extent. A proper vintage "dutch" bike even has its handlebars so near you that one can feel like they're sitting on a nice chair and pedalling. The upright riding posture is usually suited for the daily errands such as dropping kids to school, supermarket runs that require around 5KMs of riding. The Dutch also have couple of other bikes for respective purposes, such as touring and carrying loads. The culture is also a very big factor as you mentioned l. Most people believe, if it ain't broken, don't fix it types for lot of things here.

Also, why is your saddle nose tilted so dramatically upward. Does that not cause any issues down under? Or is there some clever suspension mechanism that brings it level when you mount it?

Cheers, Doc

Ha ha, the pic was taken immediately after purchase and on the way back home. I found the screw below the seat was loose, so the seat was tilted. While the seat also has a small suspension, its nose was not intended to be tilted to the front. I did tighten the crew and the seat is normal now.

Cheers!