[Samurai]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Do remember to heat before crank and idle a bit before you rush off, that's all. Just for the oil to circulate.

Of course, now I have the timer with light indicator for the heating. I don't crank until I see the heater timer light switch off.

[Samurai]

Last few days I didn't get to drive the Jeep. Yesterday I decided to drive it home for lunch since the GV has gone for service.

At first, when I switched on the ignition, the glow plug timer light just flashed and switched off. That was strange. Tried it couple more times, and the light came on. After few seconds it switched off as as expected. Then I cranked, and nothing happened except for a clicking noise. The engine was totally silent. After a few attempts, it finally cranked and engine turned on right away. I went home and when I started back, it started at first crank. I filed it away in my mind as a random electrical glitch.

Yesterday night too, I decided to take the Jeep home. Same problem, I turn the ignition key, I hear clicking sound and nothing from the engine. This time I tired 15-20 times and there was no change in behavior. It was a dud.

Thankfully, I had backup for this backup as the i10 too was parked in the office. So I went home in the i10, told my wife that Jeep battery has drained for lack of regular use.

Today morning I told my office electrician to check the battery level. He checks and says it is in perfect condition. Now I am confused, so at lunch time I again tried to start the Jeep, it starts at first crank. What is happening here?

When I try to start the engine, if I get clicking sound instead, what does that mean? Some self-starter issue? How did it heal by itself today?

[Tejas@perioimpl]

Could be a starter issue. Bendix problem. Same thing happened in my classic. The cause was attributed to the salty offroading that we did at alibag which completely corroded the starter motor.

[Spitfire]

Originally Posted by Tejas@perioimpl

Could be a starter issue. Bendix problem.

+1. Same issue seen with my Classic too. You can push start if stuck.

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by Samurai

Last few days I didn't get to drive the Jeep. Yesterday I decided to drive it home for lunch since the GV has gone for service.

At first, when I switched on the ignition, the glow plug timer light just flashed and switched off. That was strange. Tried it couple more times, and the light came on. After few seconds it switched off as as expected. Then I cranked, and nothing happened except for a clicking noise. The engine was totally silent. After a few attempts, it finally cranked and engine turned on right away. I went home and when I started back, it started at first crank. I filed it away in my mind as a random electrical glitch.

Yesterday night too, I decided to take the Jeep home. Same problem, I turn the ignition key, I hear clicking sound and nothing from the engine. This time I tired 15-20 times and there was no change in behavior. It was a dud.

Thankfully, I had backup for this backup as the i10 too was parked in the office. So I went home in the i10, told my wife that Jeep battery has drained for lack of regular use.

Today morning I told my office electrician to check the battery level. He checks and says it is in perfect condition. Now I am confused, so at lunch time I again tried to start the Jeep, it starts at first crank. What is happening here?

When I try to start the engine, if I get clicking sound instead, what does that mean? Some self-starter issue? How did it heal by itself today?

Hi Sharath,

The + Cable from the battery to the starter is loose or some salt deposits on the terminals and Solenoid Switch.

Disconnect the battery and Clean it up.

Regards,

Arka

PS - Happens due to condensation(Coastal/Humidity/Monsoons)

[kittigadu]

Yesterday night too, I decided to take the Jeep home. Same problem, I turn the ignition key, I hear clicking sound and nothing from the engine. This time I tired 15-20 times and there was no change in behavior. It was a dud.

The + Cable from the battery to the starter is loose or some salt deposits on the terminals and Solenoid Switch.

+1 to what Arka suggested.

I had the same problem on my way to sakleshpur OTR a few years ago.
We stopped for breakfast and when i cranked her, all i could hear was a click sound. Tried a few times and nothing worked out. Hurriedly called my mechanic for help, he asked me to take a spanner and hit it on the battery terminals.

Did just that and in the next crank, the engine started.

Regards,
Krishna.

[Jaggu]

- All wiring, clamps connectors, switch
- Starter overhaul

Do this and it will be fine.

[Samurai]

Alright, here are the photos of the terminals. They appear to be clean.







The only issue my electrician pointed out is that the distilled water level is about half a centimeter lower than the optimal level. I asked him to top it up.

BTW Arka, my Jeep steering road already has the UJ connector. So, my upgrade has to be the Rane type Armada steering box, right?

[ex670c]

Originally Posted by Samurai

Alright, here are the photos of the terminals. They appear to be clean.

Attachment 543788

Attachment 543789

Attachment 543790

The only issue my electrician pointed out is that the distilled water level is about half a centimeter lower than the optimal level. I asked him to top it up.

BTW Arka, my Jeep steering road already has the UJ connector. So, my upgrade has to be the Rane type Armada steering box, right?

Attachment 543791

Hi Sharath,

Please check the + Terminal Wire, the Crimp connecter is not bolted down properly.

The Solenoid Terminal looks clean, but not tight, please check.

Solenoid Terminal, hold the bolt/nut with you finger and check for play. It shouldn't move.

If the + Terminal on the Solenoid is moving; the copper terminal/ connection inside is worn out/broken. You will have to service or change the Solenoid Switch.

Since you have a UJ Type Steering Box, you can easily upgrade to the Armada. It will reduce the steering effort.

Do consider a RTC Steering Damper.

Regards,

Arka

[AVR]

A quickfix when you are stuck is to rock the car back n forth after putting in 2nd and then trying to start again. I had a similar starter issue while coming to examm and again after that. See if it works

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Sharath - BATTERY TERMINALS CARE - the terminals at the battery + / - ends in the photographs above are very typical "garage" jobs. These are not expected to work. Remove them and throw them out. Buy good quality thick terminals made out of brass having a hollow end on one side. Then remove the battery cables from the vehicle, go to a "good" radiator repair guy, sit with him, talk to him in his language, have tea with him, remove the old terminals by heating the solder (you will be amazed by the lack of solder in the joints, crimp the wires in the new terminals, solder the complete joint by using the radiator repair torch, cover the cable end with a "geela kapda" (wet cloth) otherwise an inexperienced guy will burn the cables, also ensure that the round terminals at the starter motor / earth end are suitably cleaned / corrected. Cleaning is done with "acid" which these guys have. Replace the "altu faltu" bolts and nuts that come with such terminals as they do not confirm to any specification and will break under slightest torque and also a standard size 13 spanner will not fit. Buy and assemble new TVS / PUJA make M8*1.25* minimum 8.8 grade bolts / nuts assembly of suitable length, assemble the cables in the car, route them properly, clean the battery terminals with sand paper, they must shine like new, then assemble the terminals on the posts, ensure that the top of the terminal is in line with the top of the post to guarantee full contact, then tighten the nuts with size 13 ring spanner, while holding the bolt with an open ended spanner.

Phew! That's what it takes to do a perfect job. It will take at least 4 to 5 hours to do if you go through everything that I have written, start to finish. I am used to all this work as all parts are readily available with me at home, including pre-soldered cables. I have a huge inventory of fasteners also at home. Crazy, isn't it? Believe me, it's the only way if you want a perfect job. I am attaching a photograph of the engine compartment of my Fiat BLL4919 where you can see the terminals and the quality of work done. Please observe the perfect line where the cables enter the terminal and the TVS fasteners.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by ex670c

Please check the + Terminal Wire, the Crimp connecter is not bolted down properly.

The Solenoid Terminal looks clean, but not tight, please check.

Solenoid Terminal, hold the bolt/nut with you finger and check for play. It shouldn't move.

Everything checked, all are tight.

Originally Posted by ex670c

Do consider a RTC Steering Damper.

Not very keen on that because it will be mask any problem in the steering system.

Originally Posted by AVR

A quickfix when you are stuck is to rock the car back n forth after putting in 2nd and then trying to start again. I had a similar starter issue while coming to examm and again after that. See if it works

Oh, it is working. I had the problem only yesterday, it was miraculously cured today. The electrician says he did nothing but check the battery.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

[u][b]Phew! That's what it takes to do a perfect job. It will take at least 4 to 5 hours to do if you go through everything that I have written, start to finish. I am used to all this work as all parts are readily available with me at home, including pre-soldered cables. I have a huge inventory of fasteners also at home. Crazy, isn't it? Believe me, it's the only way if you want a perfect job. I am attaching a photograph of the engine compartment of my Fiat BLL4919 where you can see the terminals and the quality of work done. Please observe the perfect line where the cables enter the terminal and the TVS fasteners.

Wow, that was one detailed description. Whenever I leave for an OTR, I install the winch and power cables are directly connected to the battery. However, the connector shown in your car doesn't allow for additional cables. How do I connect the winch power cables if I use the correct kind of terminals?

[headers]

Originally Posted by Samurai

Not very keen on that because it will be mask any problem in the steering system.

No, it will not. Your steering system becomes smoother with a damper and death wobble chances are minimal.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by Samurai

Wow, that was one detailed description. Whenever I leave for an OTR, I install the winch and power cables are directly connected to the battery. However, the connector shown in your car doesn't allow for additional cables. How do I connect the winch power cables if I use the correct kind of terminals?

Dear Sharath - simple. Just use around 20 mm longer TVS bolts, first tighten the terminals, then assemble the winch cable and tighten with another M8*1.25 nut. Now see the advantage of using standard parts. I do these things all the time.

By the way, did you change the steering box in your vehicle? Yours is a CJ which did not come with the UJ type column.

Dear Vikram - if the king pin bearings are OK and preloaded properly, death wobble does not occur. Damper use is a cure, not a prevention. Nothing wrong in using it though, but it must be mounted properly which many garages do not know how to do.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

By the way, did you change the steering box in your vehicle? Yours is a CJ which did not come with the UJ type column.

No, I didn't. Looks like it was switched by the previous owners. Now I am considering changing the steering box to Rane type, the one that came with Armada. Apparently it is a straight forward swap.