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Old 2nd December 2012, 07:48   #61
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

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Originally Posted by Geje View Post
Sir,
Do you plant to bring it back to Coimbatore for registration, or is it a registered vehicle. Please mail me the details.
BTW your Jeep is coming out Great. Wish I had met jerrycan earlier.
Jess
You can call me Sreejesh Please. Will bring it to Coimbatore for registration. May be one and half year back .
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Old 2nd December 2012, 07:54   #62
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

Yesterday we started the Engine

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-img_0655.jpg

filling 4 L of local Engine oil Rs 100/L For starting the engine then will flush it after 3-5 starting.

Surprisingly It started in the First crank itself !! Thank you Prabhu. According to the Mech The Engine works fine But need to test to know the exact condition of the engine.

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Old 2nd December 2012, 08:42   #63
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Picking up that Amaron Harvester 90 AH was a wise choice. I saw a few Army vehicles with 88 AH batteries within the depot.
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Old 2nd December 2012, 20:51   #64
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

Now its time for the Most difficult thing in a rebuild !! Choosing the right color.

My wife says Army Green or some dark shade .
My Daughter Says everything in Pink (her favorite color)
My Heart says Sand color .(But too much sand jeeps)

please help me to decide a color but I want to keep the Army theme

Now this are the colors which I Short listed.

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-582231_10150882154563699_626188698_9693924_901475409_n.jpg

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-jasonkayearmyvehicle.jpg
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Old 2nd December 2012, 21:17   #65
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

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Originally Posted by sreejeshmp View Post
Now its time for the Most difficult thing in a rebuild !! Choosing the right color.
You are absolutely right!.. It is one of the most confusing moment in the entire rebuild!..

Out of the two you have shown, I'd prefer the top one. Not because the one below is bad, but its too common nowadays.

Or else, try any of these?.. (Sorry, I didn't get any vehicle pictures. But, I hope you get an idea, right? )

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-army.jpg

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-army-1.jpg

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-army2.jpg

MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse-army3.jpg

Pic Source: Google.

P.S: Sreejesh, a humble request. Never diverge from the original Matt finish plan!

Last edited by dhanushs : 2nd December 2012 at 21:20.
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Old 2nd December 2012, 22:23   #66
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Hi sreejesh. Matt is definitely the way to go and grey would be awesome. Sorry if I'm biased towards it :-)
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Old 2nd December 2012, 23:22   #67
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

If you are thinking army (Olive) green, paint your jeep after registration. No Army Green, Post office Red and Blue. Even with dark green, you'll have a tough time convincing the MVI's here. I would prefer Matt and Grey.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 00:51   #68
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

@sreejesh, it will be interesting, on the lighter side, to learn to rebuild a jeep in 4 minutes flat. I don't know if this has been posted somewhere. Any how take a look at this link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v...layer_embedded

Last edited by rajeev k : 3rd December 2012 at 00:52.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 15:40   #69
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

Sreejesh,try a khakhi shade in matte finish.It would suit the jeep really well.The matte olive green is pretty common among modded jeeps in Kerala.So try something different.
Sreehari
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Old 3rd December 2012, 16:31   #70
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

Dear Sreejeshmp - I refer to photograph 3 of post 49 on page 4 of this thread. Why did you machine the ID of the brake drum? Please don't do such things. First of all it is not required, even when you can see "lines" on the ID. Just a dab of sandpaper is sufficient corrective action. There is no way a "lathewallah" can maintain the concentricity of the ID with respect to the reference spigot ID and the perpendicularity in TIR required. Now that it is done, please be prepared for "brake pedal pulsation" (pedal going up and down when you press it) as the ID will now rotate out of true center. Also, did you manage to get OE specification oversize brake liners? If you install aftermarket liners, please be prepared for "morning sickness" (sudden grab on gentle application in cold condition and high humidity). Both these symptoms will affect the drive experience of your vehicle negatively. In photograph 1 of the same post, the circlip is required to control the axle shaft end float, please do not remove it.

Please do not do things which are not required to be done. If in doubt, please ask. I am sending you my mobile number by PM.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar
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Old 3rd December 2012, 17:14   #71
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

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Why did you machine the ID of the brake drum? Please don't do such things. First of all it is not required, even when you can see "lines" on the ID. Just a dab of sandpaper is sufficient corrective action. There is no way a "lathewallah" can maintain the concentricity of the ID with respect to the reference spigot ID and the perpendicularity
This post has forced me to look at that picture again and the lathe in question appears to be a juggad one and it would be very difficult to maintain precise concentricity in any operation leave alone the machining of the brake drum. The machining of the brake drum to remove the scoring marks was once a common practice with local mechanics.

Quote:
filling 4 L of local Engine oil Rs 100/L For starting the engine then will flush it after 3-5 starting.
It is better not to use the locally recycled engine oils even for flushing as it will not have proper lubricating property. Using new good quality oil itself would be the right proposition and is worth more than the few hundred rupees of additional cost.

Last edited by rajeev k : 3rd December 2012 at 17:19.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 17:41   #72
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

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Originally Posted by rajeev k View Post
This post has forced me to look at that picture again and the lathe in question appears to be a juggad one and it would be very difficult to maintain precise concentricity in any operation leave alone the machining of the brake drum. The machining of the brake drum to remove the scoring marks was once a common practice with local mechanics.

It is better not to use the locally recycled engine oils even for flushing as it will not have proper lubricating property. Using new good quality oil itself would be the right proposition and is worth more than the few hundred rupees of additional cost.
Moving to first Over size is a normal thing in Kerala, May be all over India and there is nothing juggad on it. I Did it because there was a big lining in the right side Drum. I used TVS First Over Liners for both sides and new break Shoes for the right side. and the Oil thing If it was a new generation Engine I should have used Big name oils, But XD3P and that too for a starting & flushing purpose Its enough.

Last edited by sreejeshmp : 3rd December 2012 at 17:42.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 20:32   #73
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Re: MM550 XD NGCS - The War Horse

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Moving to first Over size is a normal thing in Kerala, May be all over India and there is nothing juggad on it.
Quote:
and the lathe in question appears to be a juggad one and it would be very difficult to maintain precise concentricity
I was referring to the lathe and not the methodology.
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Old 3rd December 2012, 21:48   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rajeev k

I was referring to the lathe and not the methodology.
Maini used to machine Mercedes Benz cranks on these lathes and export earlier. Don't underestimate the skill of some lathewallas sir.
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Old 4th December 2012, 13:54   #75
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The point is if the concentricity is not maintained, you will surely get the feed back on the brake pedal.
But unless some metal is removed, the first oversized liners will not fit in.
This is a routine followed by all the local workshops. There are atleast 3 workshops(lathewallas) in Coimbatore who are dedicated to automobile part conditioning for more than 3 decades. The front propeller shaft on my 550 was missing when I took delivery. I bought a yoke and teeth assembly and a seamless pipe. The lathewalla fabricated the shaft, dynamically balanced it and is now working fine on my jeep.
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